DC - DC Chargers - Which one? - Page 3





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  1. #41
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    Mfuwe, you are quite correct about the NL fridge. As far as I am aware most fridges have this exept for Engel. I however do not only run a fridge from my system, but also stuff like sidescan sonars and an electric blanket for the rooftop tent.

    There are more than one model of the BC's. I remember one where you could switch between 7,5 and 15 amps. The one we get in SA is a 15amp.

    Eddie, the low voltage cutoff you have is it build into the unit or a seperate unit that was added on?

    Cost of BC R1780.00 incl. From Jean Theart 082 4101641
    Cost of C-Tek R2500.00 and R3300.00 with the solar function. I stand to be corrected on the C-Tek prices. Available from outdoor outlets.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by CasperDP View Post
    Mfuwe, you are quite correct about the NL fridge. As far as I am aware most fridges have this exept for Engel. I however do not only run a fridge from my system, but also stuff like sidescan sonars and an electric blanket for the rooftop tent.

    There are more than one model of the BC's. I remember one where you could switch between 7,5 and 15 amps. The one we get in SA is a 15amp.

    Eddie, the low voltage cutoff you have is it build into the unit or a seperate unit that was added on?

    Cost of BC R1780.00 incl. From Jean Theart 082 4101641
    Cost of C-Tek R2500.00 and R3300.00 with the solar function. I stand to be corrected on the C-Tek prices. Available from outdoor outlets.
    Tx a mil Casper!

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by CasperDP View Post
    but also stuff like sidescan sonars and an electric blanket for the rooftop tent.
    Bit OT, but what is a sidescan sonar?
    Electric blanket ...word jy nou oud.

    I use a CPAP and its quiet heavy on the battery juice

  4. #44
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    Sidescan Sonar = Fancy fish finder that can look through sand or water. Use it to locate wrecks on the beach under the sand. Towed behind vehicle.
    Electric blanket = Essential equipment against hypothermia when sleeping on the beach behind a dune.
    "Word jy nou oud" = Nooit.

  5. #45
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    Casper a bit off topic but please tell me what set up you need for electric blankets. The ones I have seen seem to draw huge amount of watts??
    How many batteries do you need?

  6. #46
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    Normal double bed electric blanket 150Watt 230Volt. Use a 300Watt Waeco inverter. I normally will let the blanket run for an hour and switch it off as I go to bed.
    I use only one 102Ah high cycle battery.

  7. #47
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    The C-Tek D250S dual does not have a low voltage cutoff, but the optional Smartpass does for fridges etc., whilst still allowing battery to be used for critical items like two way radio for emergencies.

    The manual giving all that info is here :

    http://www.ctek.nu/Archive/ProductMa...%20DUAL_EN.pdf
    Regards, Brian

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  8. #48
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    You guys have me running in circles.
    I'm trying to put together a dual battery system and the costs are high to say the least for complete systems.
    So:
    I'm looking at a 12V solenoid for switching on / off when the vehicle ignition is turned on, i.o.w there is available charge from the main battery.
    The national luna and the cole hersee come to mind.
    These would ensure that the main battery is protected from being sucked dry by the 2nd battery.

    From all the palawa up here, this ain't where the buck stops?
    Am I right by saying this only secures a power source for a battery charger that would charge and protect my 2nd battery ?

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndriesH View Post
    You guys have me running in circles...
    ...Am I right by saying this only secures a power source for a battery charger that would charge and protect my 2nd battery ? Yes.
    This topic is not for sissies!
    Your idea is ok for a 2nd battery inside the engine compartment, especially for a hi-cycle type battery. Should you choose a deep-cycle and have it mounted at the rear, then you should read up on this and other similar threads before continuing. Deep-cycles have their advantages, disadvantages (and minds during charging) and require a more cautious approach. Better to go round and round a few times reading now, than have trouble later.

    ______
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  10. #50
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    Hmmm - thanks Eggie.

    1/ Deep cycle is the way to go, so at this stage: (R2000)
    1/ Solenoid system as power supply (R1200) (Seems some chargers have low voltage protection, therefore eliminating the need for solenoid)
    2/ Charger system to pamper the battery. (R1500 - R2500)

    I'll be reading a lot more, that is for sure.

    Went to some outdoor places today.
    Simple:
    NL, solenoid system to protect the main battery, then straight onto the Deep cycle battery - done.
    Various forms of outlets connected to the deep cycle.

    Seems there are at least two ways to do this:
    1/ A way that works
    2/ The right way
    Last edited by AndriesH; 2011/10/28 at 06:19 PM.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndriesH View Post
    Hmmm - thanks Eggie.

    1/ Deep cycle is the way to go, so at this stage: (R2000) +/-R1500 inmho
    1/ Solenoid system as power supply (R1200) (Seems some chargers have low voltage protection, therefore eliminating the need for solenoid) right
    2/ Charger system to pamper the battery. (R1500 - R2500) pamper is putting it soft, charge properly would be spot on

    I'll be reading a lot more, that is for sure.

    Went to some outdoor places today.
    Simple:
    NL, solenoid system to protect the main battery, then straight onto the Deep cycle battery - done.
    Various forms of outlets connected to the deep cycle.

    Seems there are at least two ways to do this:
    1/ A way that works
    2/ The right way
    Solenoid based dual battery systems connected directly to a deepcycle battery (usually via a long pair of 16mm2 cables) is not ideal as the deepcycle takes way too long to charge properly. This is where DC-DC chargers come in so well. The BC1212-15 is probably the better choice here in terms of economy, and it does the job well. CTek D250S would be good if you consider solar as well (and have a few extra bucks).

    ______
    Eggie.
    Last edited by Eggie; 2011/10/28 at 06:59 PM.

  12. #52
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    NL, solenoid system to protect the main battery, then straight onto the Deep cycle battery - done.
    You are going to spend a lot of moeny as you will be buying again. I did.

  13. #53
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    I used my high cycle battery now for 6 years, directly from the main battery (via Cole Hersee solonoid) and it is still going strong. What I do do, is to always connect it to a bench charger after a trip and just before a trip. So, you don't need to spend millions on such a system. I use a 40 L Engel on mine, a 1200W inverter and my compressor are permanently connected to it. The main thing is to never let it run completely flat, then no system will help to "let it last longer".
    Last edited by JDeV; 2011/10/30 at 11:19 AM.
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  14. #54
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    Johan, if only it was always that simple. What you are doing is good and will quite often be good enough, but a day will come when you experience what some us have been through.

    You camp in the veld, temperatures are high (40+) and the nights donít really cool down either. The fridge cannot keep up because the battery keeps running out. You drive around or idle the engine for an hour in the morning and the same again in the late afternoon, but the fridge keeps switching off, the meat thaws, no more ice, the milk goes rancid and man, this is no way to have fun. The beer is no longer cold, the good lady growls, the kids complain and your neighbour looks at you funny because of the noise & exhaust gases out there in the beautiful open. All because of you and your silly schemes that wonít work out.

    Thatís when you realise that its time for a proper DC-DC charger or solar. I went solar and it is heaven compared to what I had before. No more hassles, plain & simple. You can make ice if you need to, no problem Ė and you & the universe are at peace once more.

    ______
    Eggie.

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDeV View Post
    I used my high cycle battery now for 6 years,
    Its time to replace....that cranking battery is going to drop you when you least expect it
    Last edited by mfuwefarmer; 2011/10/30 at 03:28 PM.

  16. #56
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    Thanks for some wonderful and valuable feedback guys.
    This is then my plan:
    I have an Amatrok that needs wiring to the new Tourer SP.
    The Tourer SP is fitted with a 12V / 220V system called the Herkules 20.

    I had a wonderful visit at the Jurgens factory this morning (for work stuff) and we concluded with a general description of the Herkules 20 that has me satisfied.

    In summary then:
    I'll be fitting a solenoid, fuse, trip switch and Brad Harris connector to the Amatrok. It will have a manual on/off button that I am going to fit in one of the blank knoppies next to the gear lever. I can replace it with a new blank at any time. This position is also in close proximity to the 12V lighter points to which I'll solder the solenoid / switch wiring. The lighter plugs only work when the ignition is on anyway.

    While travelling, the connection between 'Trok' and 'Van' will be battery to battery through the solenoid. - this is not good as there is no provision for pampering the caravan's battery. However, The 220V circuit of the Herkules 20 has a complete battery management system that would then do the necessary charging / cleaning / conditioning of the deep cycle battery, once connected to 220V.

    This will also buy me time to get my ducks (R's) in a row for when I want to fit an actual DC-DC charger in the bakkie with it's own battery.
    It is not a requirement right now, but the caravan's fridge might have to do a few road trips in the bakkie in the future.

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfuwefarmer View Post
    Its time to replace....that cranking battery is going to drop you when you least expect it
    You are quite right, any 6 year old battery are due for replacement. But it is not because it is a "cranking battery". In actual fact, the fact that it is a cranking battery means that you can jumpstart yourself many times, without damaging it in any way and it charges much faster then those UPS batteries.

    @ Eggie:

    To charge batteries before and after a trip, to not run a battery totaly flat - those are not silly schemes, it is actually common sense, for me anyway. And yes, if you really want peace of mind, solar charger is the way to go.

    Who said 4x4-ing is a cheap hobby?
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  18. #58
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    Update - After a lot of reading, I took the leap and ripped out the NL charging system, redid all the wiring with correct guages, installed a BC Charger under my centre console. I coupled it with a 90AH Lead Crystal battery. I installed it mid April, and have had the fridge running pretty much permanently, and often empty, since then. I travel about an hour a day, and so far, the battery has remained in tip top condition, and the fridge has stayed cold. NL 40l fridge rund at 5 deg. I hook up the Ctec about once every 6 weeks overnight to ensure good condition...

    Fantastic result!

  19. #59
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    Will running the fridge - max 6 amp draw - at the same time as trying to charge the battery from the vehicles alternator confuse the dc to dc charger into it not knowing how much to give the battery if the fridge kicks in or out .
    The fridge will be connected after the charger in the layout.
    Ross

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    Question
    I have a BC charger from Jean under the seat and have been using staightt to my 2nd battery and it really works well.

    Now I got a one of those National Luna boxes with the controls on the side plus a battery and was wondering if I can just connect the charger to the input of that box and if I will have the same experience or if the NL controller and the BC charger will contradict each other ?
    Last edited by jthuynsma; 2012/08/24 at 01:38 PM.
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