My 4x4 lights does not flash when I engage 4H or Low. The gear lever does the work, because I can feel it when in 4L. I think it is the switch or wiring on the transfer case. What is the easies way to get to the switch ?
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My 4x4 lights does not flash when I engage 4H or Low. The gear lever does the work, because I can feel it when in 4L. I think it is the switch or wiring on the transfer case. What is the easies way to get to the switch ?
Is there any lights showing at all, 2 H when the car is first started, if not, remove the face from the binicle and check the bulbs, or you have to lift the truck onto axle stands and trace the wires on top of the transfer case, forward to the connections at the gearlevers under the centre surounds on said levers, no shortcuts Im afraid, you can go to the search function and look for the wireing diagram for this item, as there has been loads of enquires about this matter.
http://4epikanini.webs.com/
Check under Mitsubishi DIY
Had a similar problem with my colt! Traced it to be the switch on top of the actuator (where the vacuum pipes lead to). I just took it out, sprayed some Q20 in there and played with it until it loosened up. You can test it afterwards with a volt meter to check the resistance.
2005 Colt 2.8 4x4 Clubbie
2010 Fortuner 3.0 D4D
Hello, I'm new here but have been a visitor for a long time.
Just a while ago I had a similar problem with the dashboard light not coming on. After some research I concluded that the most likely culprits are the two switches on the transfer case just behind the shift lever. They send signals to the ECU which engage the light as well as the front diff via vacuum control solenoids and a actuator system.
These switches have short +/- 10cm wires attached to them which go into connectors coming from the vehichle loom. The connectors have a tab on the one side that must be depressed to undo the two halves. The connectors are also attached to a plate which is bolted on top of the transfer case, presumably to prevent them rubbing against the metal surroundings.
I found the easiest way was to remove the entire mounting plate first using a 12mm ring spanner (just one bolt). Then laying on my back under the bakkie, fiddled the tabs until I got the connectors separated. The switches could then be unscrewed using a short 19mm flat spanner, taking care not to get any dirt into the exposed holes when removing them. Also taking care to keep the washers under the switches as the new ones don't come with washers for some reason.
Having removed the switches, I cleaned them and tested them with a multimeter. Both were shot, giving erratic readings and no clear open or short as they are supposed to.
I then obtained two new switches from Mitsu in Tygerberg @ +/-R260ea.
As I said, they did not come with washers, I so retrieved the old washers and fitted them.
Take care not to overtighten these when fitting as they are Alu cased and not very strong. Also take care not to twist the protruding wires too much while screwing them in.
Having fitted the new switches, I decided not to put back the connector plate and instead just put its holding bolt back. I then tidied up the wiring with cable ties and covered the whole lot with a piece of pvc tubing cut open lenghtwise.
The job was quite tricky but doable and took 3-4 hours to complete.
Now the 4x4 system works perfectly
Cool Thanx for the dvice, I think it is the switches, since 4X4 does engage, the lights just stays off
Are you 100% sure that your 4x4 does engage ? Quikest way to see is get somebody to help you ,let your bakkie idle and remove the rubber boot that covers the actuater rod behind the front diff .Get said friend to engage 4H and 4L ,if the rod moves then yes your 4x4 is working ,if not then it can be the switches or even the vacuum control solenoids .How to test your solenoids ,get two pieces of wire and connect to solenoid and then directly to battery,you will here them kicking in and releasing when you take the power away .... if you don`t here anything you have sticky or shot solenoids.Can also be a stuffed vacuum pipe ....
Or another way to check is to jack one front wheel up and while idling with the g/box in neutral select between 2 & 4H. In 2wd the wheel should offer much less resistance when turned by hand than in 4wd.
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