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  1. #1
    Big Hilux Guest

    Arrow 50mm body lift, how to do it, morning job

    Okay what you need to first do is contact Riceburner here and he can sell you some spacers that he has manufactured, they come in various sizes, thus decide first what size you require, but we find that the 2" is the best for this application on a Hilux, we are talking about the older models which have the solid front axle fitted. The Hilux that we did this body lift on this morning is a 1996 with a 2.8 diesel engine, this vehicle already has 33" x 1250 x 12" A/T Tyres fitted and we have also already moved the front axle foreward by 25mm, but we found that the 33" tyres still touched the wheel arches when we turned or went through a gutter or such.

    Tools that you require are:

    Phillips screw driver
    Trolly Jack +- a 2 or 3 ton.
    Various thickness sizes of wooden blocks.
    Spanners size --13mm, 14mm, 17mm,
    Sockets size-- 10mm, 14mm tube socket, 17mm tube socket in 1/2" size.
    Long 1/2" extension.
    Eye glasses.
    Creeper.
    Side cutters.
    Flat screw driver med size.
    Med size pliers.
    12mm bolts x 6.
    12mm flat washes selection, but 6 0f each size.
    Copper slip in the spray tin.
    DC Welder machine. But a co2 mig will also work.
    Welding gloves long sleeve type.
    Welding helmet.
    Chipping hammer.
    Welding rods mild steel.
    Lock Tite.
    Q20 spray.

    To start with, make sure that your vehicle is on a nice flat surface, concrete slab works best, but you can also do this job in the street on the tar in front of your home.

    Place a piece of wood behind and in front of one of the rear wheels.
    Release the hand brake.
    Remove one of the battery ternimals from the battery and if your vehicle has a duel battery system, switch off the main switch, but if you have an isolation switch you can switch this off as well, just depends what system your vehicle has fitted.

    Now loosen off the hose clamps at the air intake pipe on each side, this will vary from vehicle to vehicle. If you have a snorkel fitted loosen off these hose clamps as well, you do not have to remove any pipes, just make sure that the pipes can turn on the metal pipe.

    Check and see that all electrical wireing is not tied down by any clip, cable tie or bracket, if so loosen or cut off cable tie, we found that the wires for the front indicators which are fitted to the front after market bumper had to be attended to.

    Check the fuel lines that they will not get damaged when you lift the cab body, if in dought, rather loosen off one end.

    If your vehicle has an earth cable from the chassis to the cab body, make sure that there is enough cable available for when you lift the cab.

    Loosen off the kick panel strip on each side of the vehicle, this is the plastic plastic strip that holds the carpet or floor mat down, once this panel is loose, remove it and you may have to remove the small kick panel on each side as well, then peel away the floor carpet or mat until you see a black plastic round cover, this is when you use the flat screw driver to just lift it away from the floor, once it is removed you will see the top section of the cab bolt.

    Loosen and remove the one clamp bolt/nut from the steering rod the one closest to the cab firewall, not the one at the steering box side.

    Check that the cowling on the radiator is loosened off, some vehicles do not have a lower section to the radiator cowling, ours did not, if it has, depending on your engine that is fitted, you can move the radiator higher or cut away the lower section of this cowling.

    This job can be done by yourself, but get hold of one of your friends before hand and tell him that you will have a few beers and some dop available for the afternoon and you require his or her help.

    One of you can hold the bolt head ontop and you can slide underneath the vehicle with the creeper, wear the safety glasses as lots of debri will fall into your eyes from underneath the vehicle when you start with the size 14mm tube socket, long 1/2" extension and ratchet to loosen the nut off.
    If you find that the nut is very tight, you can try some Q20 spray or a 3/4" heavy duty strong arm bar or T-Bar.

    Once you have loosened off all 6 nuts, keep the big flat washer as you will use it again, keep the rubber bushes as well as these will also be re-used. Remove all six bolts, you will notice that for the two bolts that are found behind the bench seat, these two bolts do not require your friend to hold the top of the bolt, they have special locking heads in their design.
    In front of the vehicle on each side of the radiator you will find one bolt on each side, here you will require your friends help again.

    Use a protected lead light, climb under the vehicle with the creeper and check that there are no more items that may have to be loosened off, once you are satisfied that everything seems fine, it is now time to use the trolley jack, depending on the type and size of your trolley jack, some pieces of wood may have to be used to make the jacking process high enough, we jacked the cab up using the little ridge underneath the cab in the middel of the door, by using this point we were able to insert the new spacers on the rear, middle supports, you must use two flat washes at the top, you will have to make sure that they are the correct OD to fit in the flor section of the cab floor, this is why I said you will require a selection of 12mm flat washes with various size OD's.

    Push the bolt through the floor, through the spacer and then also through the existing std spacer, then through the other std spacer rubber underneath, you will have to pre determine the correct length of bolt that you will need for this cab body lift, spray some copper spray on the threads of the bolt, re-fit the washer that you removed before and then a nyloc nut. Only tighten up with your fingers not tight yet.

    Then move the trolley jack foreward and lift the front of the cab and insert the two front spacers and their bolts etc as the ones behind. Once all the 6 bolts and nuts are in place you can now tighten them all tight, but not overtight, you will have to use some common sense here of how tight is tight, if you see the rubber spacer mushering out this is too tight.

    Some mods that you will have to do are:

    The handbrake cable will have stretch slightly, not to worry, just remove it from the bracket underneath, cut off the existing bracket and modify it so that the cable is futher from the chassis, this is on the right hand side of the vehicle if you are sitting in the drivers seat.

    Make sure that there are no brake metal pipes toughing the steering rod, most brake pipes have a coil in the line, this is to prevent vibration, just move it slightly and it will have more slack to the complete length.

    The small hydraulic pipe may be clamped to the gearbox, with a hammer just tap the bracket up slightly, if it will not move, loosen off the 17mm bolt slightly then tighten it again after you have moved the bracket.

    The steering rod has splines on the end that you removed the bolt, it would have moved out slightly, re-fit the bolt and use some lock tite on the threads, be careful of your eyes with the lock tite.
    You will notice that the gear levers are now shorter, do not worry about this.

    Check the air intake pipes, we just tightened them up again, the one side had turned by itself to the correct position.
    With the load body you have to find some suitable fuel tank inlet hose to lengthen the inlet fuel hose, go and humt around a junk yard or 2nd hand spares shop, the rear tail light wires were already long enough.

    But remember if your vehicle has a front aftermarket bumper fitted, the headlights may not line up correctly afterwards. Reconnect the battery and enjoy climbing into your higher bakkie, any questions please ask.

  2. #2
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    You work in the street in jhb, you wont have any tools left!!
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  3. #3
    Big Hilux Guest

    Default

    Do you mean that somebody will steal your tools, is it that bad to live up there, would this be your neibours, or pass a bys, the guys in the black vehicles repair them all over the place.

  4. #4
    Big Hilux Guest

    Default

    When we fitted some extra spacers in the TJ coil springs we went to this huge rock alongside this road near QT, drove the one wheel up ontop of it and the other sagged down and it was easy to swop and add more spaces.

  5. #5
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    Default

    If I were to park in the street in front I will cause a mayor traffic jam

    Simon

    I am interested in lifting my front suspension a bit and moving the front axle forward.

    What does the axle move entail? Also If I use extended Shackle hangers the U/Joint angles may become to much. What do you do to rotate the axle to decrease the U/J angle. I do not want to go and buy a lot of stuff if it can be made by myself.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Hilux View Post
    Okay what you need to first do is contact Riceburner here and he can sell you some spacers that he has manufactured, they come in various sizes, thus decide first what size you require, but we find that the 2" is the best for this application on a Hilux, we are talking about the older models which have the solid front axle fitted. The Hilux that we did this body lift on this morning is a 1996 with a 2.8 diesel engine, this vehicle already has 33" x 1250 x 12" A/T Tyres fitted and we have also already moved the front axle foreward by 25mm, but we found that the 33" tyres still touched the wheel arches when we turned or went through a gutter or such.

    Tools that you require are:

    Phillips screw driver
    Trolly Jack +- a 2 or 3 ton.
    Various thickness sizes of wooden blocks.
    Spanners size --13mm, 14mm, 17mm,
    Sockets size-- 10mm, 14mm tube socket, 17mm tube socket in 1/2" size.
    Long 1/2" extension.
    Eye glasses.
    Creeper.
    Side cutters.
    Flat screw driver med size.
    Med size pliers.
    12mm bolts x 6.
    12mm flat washes selection, but 6 0f each size.
    Copper slip in the spray tin.
    DC Welder machine. But a co2 mig will also work.
    Welding gloves long sleeve type.
    Welding helmet.
    Chipping hammer.
    Welding rods mild steel.
    Lock Tite.
    Q20 spray.

    To start with, make sure that your vehicle is on a nice flat surface, concrete slab works best, but you can also do this job in the street on the tar in front of your home.

    Place a piece of wood behind and in front of one of the rear wheels.
    Release the hand brake.
    Remove one of the battery ternimals from the battery and if your vehicle has a duel battery system, switch off the main switch, but if you have an isolation switch you can switch this off as well, just depends what system your vehicle has fitted.

    Now loosen off the hose clamps at the air intake pipe on each side, this will vary from vehicle to vehicle. If you have a snorkel fitted loosen off these hose clamps as well, you do not have to remove any pipes, just make sure that the pipes can turn on the metal pipe.

    Check and see that all electrical wireing is not tied down by any clip, cable tie or bracket, if so loosen or cut off cable tie, we found that the wires for the front indicators which are fitted to the front after market bumper had to be attended to.

    Check the fuel lines that they will not get damaged when you lift the cab body, if in dought, rather loosen off one end.

    If your vehicle has an earth cable from the chassis to the cab body, make sure that there is enough cable available for when you lift the cab.

    Loosen off the kick panel strip on each side of the vehicle, this is the plastic plastic strip that holds the carpet or floor mat down, once this panel is loose, remove it and you may have to remove the small kick panel on each side as well, then peel away the floor carpet or mat until you see a black plastic round cover, this is when you use the flat screw driver to just lift it away from the floor, once it is removed you will see the top section of the cab bolt.

    Loosen and remove the one clamp bolt/nut from the steering rod the one closest to the cab firewall, not the one at the steering box side.

    Check that the cowling on the radiator is loosened off, some vehicles do not have a lower section to the radiator cowling, ours did not, if it has, depending on your engine that is fitted, you can move the radiator higher or cut away the lower section of this cowling.

    This job can be done by yourself, but get hold of one of your friends before hand and tell him that you will have a few beers and some dop available for the afternoon and you require his or her help.

    One of you can hold the bolt head ontop and you can slide underneath the vehicle with the creeper, wear the safety glasses as lots of debri will fall into your eyes from underneath the vehicle when you start with the size 14mm tube socket, long 1/2" extension and ratchet to loosen the nut off.
    If you find that the nut is very tight, you can try some Q20 spray or a 3/4" heavy duty strong arm bar or T-Bar.

    Once you have loosened off all 6 nuts, keep the big flat washer as you will use it again, keep the rubber bushes as well as these will also be re-used. Remove all six bolts, you will notice that for the two bolts that are found behind the bench seat, these two bolts do not require your friend to hold the top of the bolt, they have special locking heads in their design.
    In front of the vehicle on each side of the radiator you will find one bolt on each side, here you will require your friends help again.

    Use a protected lead light, climb under the vehicle with the creeper and check that there are no more items that may have to be loosened off, once you are satisfied that everything seems fine, it is now time to use the trolley jack, depending on the type and size of your trolley jack, some pieces of wood may have to be used to make the jacking process high enough, we jacked the cab up using the little ridge underneath the cab in the middel of the door, by using this point we were able to insert the new spacers on the rear, middle supports, you must use two flat washes at the top, you will have to make sure that they are the correct OD to fit in the flor section of the cab floor, this is why I said you will require a selection of 12mm flat washes with various size OD's.

    Push the bolt through the floor, through the spacer and then also through the existing std spacer, then through the other std spacer rubber underneath, you will have to pre determine the correct length of bolt that you will need for this cab body lift, spray some copper spray on the threads of the bolt, re-fit the washer that you removed before and then a nyloc nut. Only tighten up with your fingers not tight yet.

    Then move the trolley jack foreward and lift the front of the cab and insert the two front spacers and their bolts etc as the ones behind. Once all the 6 bolts and nuts are in place you can now tighten them all tight, but not overtight, you will have to use some common sense here of how tight is tight, if you see the rubber spacer mushering out this is too tight.

    Some mods that you will have to do are:

    The handbrake cable will have stretch slightly, not to worry, just remove it from the bracket underneath, cut off the existing bracket and modify it so that the cable is futher from the chassis, this is on the right hand side of the vehicle if you are sitting in the drivers seat.

    Make sure that there are no brake metal pipes toughing the steering rod, most brake pipes have a coil in the line, this is to prevent vibration, just move it slightly and it will have more slack to the complete length.

    The small hydraulic pipe may be clamped to the gearbox, with a hammer just tap the bracket up slightly, if it will not move, loosen off the 17mm bolt slightly then tighten it again after you have moved the bracket.

    The steering rod has splines on the end that you removed the bolt, it would have moved out slightly, re-fit the bolt and use some lock tite on the threads, be careful of your eyes with the lock tite.
    You will notice that the gear levers are now shorter, do not worry about this.

    Check the air intake pipes, we just tightened them up again, the one side had turned by itself to the correct position.
    With the load body you have to find some suitable fuel tank inlet hose to lengthen the inlet fuel hose, go and humt around a junk yard or 2nd hand spares shop, the rear tail light wires were already long enough.

    But remember if your vehicle has a front aftermarket bumper fitted, the headlights may not line up correctly afterwards. Reconnect the battery and enjoy climbing into your higher bakkie, any questions please ask.

    Big Hilux

    You make it sound so simple and easy to do. Will this process be the same for a IFS as I am planning to do a body lift on mine.

  7. #7
    JeepOnly Guest

    Default No more big rocks !

    I think what Engel meant to say was that there are no more big rocks on the sides of the streets in JHB. Even those have been stolen



    .

  8. #8
    Big Hilux Guest

    Default

    benhur

    to do with the body lift, i will get the size of the metal blocks that we used to shift the front axle forward as well as the u-bolts, but the problem with this type of mod is the trac bar, we are using one that we got from Australia, which has a different design to it.

    Frik everything should be the same, just check how much splines you have left on the steering shaft, you may have to lengthen the shaft, a special adaptor is available from Snake racing in Australia or you can have one made up at an engineering company here. You can also use 10mm bolts, we just used 12mm for our application for the spaces

  9. #9
    Big Hilux Guest

    Default

    Benhur, we used a piece of flat bar, 300mm long and 20mm thick, the same width of the spring blade I think it was 60mm, measure yours to check, not sure what blades you have in your vehicle., what you do is drill a hole through the centre of the plate so that you have the same distance from each end, then drill another hole 15mm foreward, measure the head of the centre bolt, this must be the size of the hole.

    For the U-Bolts, we used the long side one and on the short side and had some new ones made for the long side.

    But we are not happy with this mod, the trac bar is not nice, we are in fact thinking of moving it back to std and with the 50mm body lift that we have just done, the 33" x 1250 x 15" tyres will still be fine, if there are any problems we will just trim back the arches behind the wheels.
    Last edited by Big Hilux; 2007/05/02 at 09:04 PM. Reason: add words

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Pretoria
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    Simon

    Can you take some pics please? What about the arm that connect the steering box?

  11. #11
    Big Hilux Guest

    Default

    Okay will do tomorrow evening

  12. #12
    Big Hilux Guest

    Arrow The material that we used

    visconylon this is what the material is called.
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