Advice needed: Planned trip to Bots & Zimbabwe in DECEMBER

[Horsesense]

Planned Trip Botswana & Zimbabwe IN DECEMBER.....


Hi everybody,
I have spent over a week reading through the forums (thanks for all the awesome info), but still have some questions, as I seem to find few reports on DECEMBER trips to the Lower Zambezi (should I take the hint?). .

I have read both trip reports by Kerry and Stan Weakley but those were before wet season commenced. (Thanks for the awesome reports guys, very, very helpful.)

Initially we will be two-up solo, but will be accompanied by friends for the Vic Falls/Hwange/Mana stretch. We want to mostly camp but sometimes a budget chalet would be nice, and are prepared for 4x4’ing. I have driven from JHB to Serengeti and back in a 4x2 Isuzu, in dry season, so not a complete newbie to all of this, but desperately need advice about wet season in Bots/Zim.

If you spot any obvious errors in travelling times or distances I would appreciate some help, especially those from Hwange – Chiza – Tashinga – Kariba.

OUR PLANNED ITINERARY (NO bookings made as yet): (Days include travelling times)
Dec 8: JHB – Khama Rhino Sanctuary (2 days)
Trav time: 8hrs Dist: 595kms

Dec 10: Khama – Francistown (Just to Pay fees) – Gweta (3 days)
Trav time: 6.45hrs Dist: 607kms
QUESTION:
• This is still the only way to pay?
• Planet Baobab OR CAMPING INSIDE MAKGADI PANS? If inside camp, which campsite?
• Would the road from Mabole to Tamaku in the pans be accessible to camp at Tamaku?
• I assume Kubu will be out of the question?
• Will it be too wet to do much in the pans?

Dec 13: Makgadigadi Pans – Nxai (Overnight)
Trav time: 2.5hrs Dist: 105kms
QUESTION:
• Where to camp?
• I assume Baine’s Boababs are out of limits in the wet season?

Dec 14: Nxai – Kasane (3 days)
Trav time: 7.40hrs Dist: 608kms
QUESTION:
• Where to camp? Have heard of Thebe River Safari, and Chobe Safari Lodge (but only first come, first served basis). Any others?
• Who to book Chobe River cruise with?
• General things to do?

Dec 16: MEET FELLOW TRAVELLERS IN KASANE

Dec 18: Kasane – Vic Falls (Vic Falls Rest Camp)
Trav time: 1.5hrs Distance: 100kms
QUESTION:
• Is Vic Falls Rest Camp they way to go?

Dec 20: Vic Falls – Hwange (4 days)
Trav time: 2.5hrs Distance: 150kms
QUESTION:
• Have seen on forums that best sites are Shumba, Ngweshla and Masuma?

Dec 24: Hwange – Chizarira (overnight)
Trav time: 7hrs Distance: 290kms
QUESTION:
• What condition will this road be in in the wet?
• Is the above mentioned travelling estimate correct?
• Mucheni View Campsite or Chizarira Wilderness Lodge? We are only over-nighting so may be easier?

Dec 25: Chizarira – Matusadona / Tashinga (3 days)
Trav time: 7.5hrs Distance: 207kms
QUESTION:
• What condition will this road be in in the wet?
• Is the above mentioned travelling estimate correct?

Dec 28: Tashinga – Kariba via Karoi (overnight)
Trav time: 9hrs Distance: 390kms
QUESTION:
• What condition will this road be in in the wet?
• Is the above mentioned travelling estimate correct?

Dec 29: Kariba – Nyamepi, Mana (5 days)
Trav time: 3.5hrs Distance: 176kms
QUESTION:
• What condition will this road be in in the wet?
• Which campsite to book? Not going to Chitake.

Jan 3: TAKE LEAVE OF FELLOW TRAVELLERS
Mana – Harare (Overnight)
Trav time: 7hrs Distance: 409kms
QUESTION:
• Is the above mentioned travelling estimate correct?
• Any advice where to overnight?

Jan 4: Harare – Gweru (Antelope Park) (Overnight)
Trav time: 4hrs Distance: 275kms

Jan 5: Gweru – Matobo NP / Big Cave Campsite (0vernight)
Trav time: 3hrs Distance: 204kms

Jan 6: Matobo – Plumtree – Martin’s Drift
Trav time: 6hrs Distance: 374kms
QUESTION:
• Any advice where to overnight?

Jan 7: Martin’s Drift – JHB
Trav time: 5hrs Distance: 440kms

SHEW!

GENERAL QUESTIONS:
• Does the itinerary have any major holes in it?
• We cannot afford the R3000 for 2 of us on the Mlibizi – Kariba Ferry, much less our friends that are joining us. If the wet conditions will make the HWANGE – KARIBA trip a nightmare, would you skip this route and go through Zambia?

• Are there any areas on this trip that are a NO NO in December (wet wet wet!)


I thank any replies in advance, and promise a comprehensive trip report on our return! We have some newbies with us so should be fun!!!


Kelly
JHB

[Stan Weakley]

Hi Kelly, fantastic trip you have planned. I would strongly suggest you get the GPS Program, Tracks 4 Africa, obtainable from Cape Union Mart or Outdoor Warehouse if you don’t already have it, indispensable. However it looks as if you might have obtained your traveling distances and times from T4A.
The peak wet season in Bots and Zim is usually in Feb. and later, so you may be lucky. This year the rains were quite late. Dec and Jan are not the best times for game viewing but you will be compensated with plenty of birds and the bush will be lush and green. The wet conditions may affect parts of your trip but one can’t plan to the nth degree, if you strike any problems you may have to bush camp for a night and adjust your plans accordingly.
I have checked your travelling times and distances and these seem reasonably accurate, many of your actual travelling times may be shorter, but it is better to allow for any delays. You have correctly not tried to cover too much in one day and I can’t improve much on your well researched itinerary. At this time of the year you will probably need to book most of your accommodation well beforehand which is a bit of a pain.
Khama. There are rustic chalets here but early in your trip I am sure you will be keen to camp.
Makgadigadi. Have not been to the pans in the wet season but you might have some difficulties with access here. Will leave for others to comment. Three days might be too long if access is limited. Many seem to prefer camping or chalets at Gweta Lodge rather than the more commercialized Planet Baobab. We liked Gweta Lodge but not for 3 days.
Kasane. We usually camp at Chobe Safari Lodge but you need to arrive early to be confident of securing a camp site. Their chalets are quite expensive but are worth enquiring about. Its big advantage is that it is so close to the Chobe entrance gate and right on the banks of the Chobe river . Thebe is also fine but is a few kilos further east and not as close to the park entrance. Many are suggesting Senyati Lodge, but I have not been there, some distance from the park entrance and the river. Camping and chalets, so worth researching.
River cruise: best from Chobe Safari Lodge as the jetty is so close to the park itself and you don’t waste time chugging up river compared to the other jetties further east. Try and book a shared trip on a smaller boat rather than the bigger barges as you get closer to the game, but this may not be possible with a small group. Depending on the time of the year, they depart at about 16H00 but book at least the day before. The sunset cruise is the most popular. Other camps also have trips. Remember that you will need to pay park entry fees for this. These run for 24 hours e.g. from 16H00 to the same time the next day. You can thus use this fee to do a game drive early the next day.
Other things to do: Good shopping in Kasane so can stock up at Spar or Choppies. Day trips into Chobe are obviously going to take up most of your time. Remember the 24 hour rule for entrance fees and plan accordingly.
Vic Falls: Last time I saw the municipal camp at Vic Falls rest camp it was looking pretty run down and I don’t think matters will have improved. There are other better camp sites at Vic Falls which Google will find for you. Last time here we stayed at Lokutula Lodge, these are luxury timeshare chalets which can work out to be cheaper than you think when you work out the costs per person. Because they are time share you can only book about 1- 2 months in advance, ie those not taken up by timeshare members. Have a look on the internet.
Hwange: In Dec. the central area of the park around Sinamatella will be mainly thick Mopani bush with limited visability, although this is where Elephants and Buffalo are more plentiful . The eastern area around and south of Main Camp is more open and will be more rewarding for game viewing. Even in the dry season the varied habitat and game make this area more attractive. I think the best camps at this time of the year in descending order in this area would be, Ngweshla, Kennedy and Jambile picnic spots. But will possibly already be booked out, so book very soon. Otherwise there is not too much wrong with Main Camp, the above picnic spots are in driving distance.Just for variety, or on the way out perhaps stay at, in order of preference, Masuma Dam, Shumba, Madavu Dam, Deteema or Sinamatella itself.
Chizarira: The Binga-Karoi road is notorious but in the dry season we found it not to be as bad as feared. In Dec the full impact of the rains should not have occurred yet. Unless there has been flooding and really major wash-aways you should be fine in your Prado. I would try and spend 2 nights here just because Mucheni View camp has the best view of any site I have come across. The private lodge is not up on the escarpment as such and I would only perhaps consider staying here as a pure overnight stop. It would be a great pity to miss out on either of the Mucheni camp sites. Mucheni Gorge camp site is almost as nice.
Matusadona (Tashinga): The road down to Tashinga, turning off the Binga-Karoi road, is a bit of a tester. You do cross some smallish river beds which may be a problem if flowing strongly. You will be more than one vehicle and should be fine. One can’t plan for all eventualities and if one is unable to cross then you can bush camp and try the following day, or just change your itinerary. Many people have travelled this road safely at this time of the year. I gather that there is more game on the lake shore during the rains. Tashinga is definitely worth a visit
Mana Pools: The access and internal roads at Mana should present no major problems until the Zambezi floods, usually a little later in the rainy season. It may be too late to book the private camps but Mucheni camps probably the pick of these. There is nothing wrong with Nyamepi camp, a little less private. The sites on the Zambezi banks are more expensive but worth it.
Plumtree: Overnight at Woodlands, luxury chalets, reasonable camping.
Problems: I would be most concerned about access to Makgadigadi Pans and if access a problem 3 days would seem too long here. You have obviously chosen Dec. as this is when you can take time off. Rain and the heat might be your greatest challenges. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, go for it! I would definitely not cut out Hwange, Chiz or Tashinga and detour via Zambia.
Others with experience in wet condition trips in these areas should please feel free to correct any of my assumptions. My three cents worth.
Stan.

[Horsesense]

And a very valuable three cents worth it is Stan! Thanks so much, I will go through your mail in more detail soon and may (if I can) pick your brains some more! On a not-so-nice note, it looks like we may be solo for the whole trip, as our travelling companions having decided that it's too rough a trip for them.... better now than half way through the trip though! But may affect our decision visit to Chiza and Matusadona : (

[TRON]

Hi Horsesense, You don't say if you have booked in the National Parks. Looks like a good trip- envy!

Single vehicle to Matasudona not a great idea especially if towing a trailer. Remember the extra spare. No don't go via Zambia. The tar roads in Zim are fine. If you need to cut out the Matasudona section then spend more time in Hwange and Mana (Chitake!). tHIS HOWEVER WILL BE A GREAT PITY, but you do have to be properly organised if you want to do this on your own. Maybe you can hook up with a another team, ask around or better use this site.

Stans advice on Hwange is spot on book at Ngweshla (M), Masuma (S), Deteema (R), Shumba (S), Jambile (?), Kennedy 2 (M) and Manduva (S). In that order just check distances and timing which seems to be your forte in any case. I would stay away from any one of the main camps (S=Sinamatella, M=Main or r=Robins). Remember that you should pay fees at different offices see in brackets.

[Horsesense]

Hi and thanks for the time taken to reply.
1. We have not booked, and apparently you cannot book for Mana in December? (We will book where ever we can, if Christina would reply to my emails.....). I have emailed Christine Muhriro 3 x but had no response at all. I think I may have to call her.
2. We are now thinking of doing this trip in reverse because you cannot book at Mana. That way we are hoping to get a campsite, before the rush sets in, what do you guys think?
3. Mmmm... Is Tashinga a high risk move as solo travellers? We are not the gung-ho type and we prefer to to be stranded alone (obvioiusly!).
4. Re. Mana: Is Chitake an option when it's so hot? I have read that it's quite enclosed by bush so a breeze is not an option. I have also read that the Tsetse can drive you barmy? But have heard only awesome things about it.
One problem is is that $100 per day is really high for 2 travellers.
Any advice is very welcomed guys! Thanks again!

[sprinter]

I do not think that Tashinga is a high risk for solo travelers. There are usually a few vehicles going in and out of Tashinga. The road/track is mainly sand or sandy gravel. There are a few rivers to cross but these should not stay flooded for long periods and the destination is worth the slow drive there.

Mike

[Stan Weakley]

Hello again Kelly,
Doing the trip in reverse sounds like a good idea, you are definately more likely to obtain bookings for the more sought after sites in Mana earlier in Dec. I think that you can in fact book Mana in Dec. However if you are going to be fussy, the right sites in Hwange are just as important. You will not regret putting in the hours and trouble needed to obtain bookings for the more private camps with their uniquely intimate encounters with nature. At the end of the day staying in Nyamepi in Mana and Main or perhaps even Sinamatella camps in Hwange, won't be a train smash. Put a morning or afternoon aside and keep phoning Christina until you get through. In the meantime persist with the E-mails, it will be worth all the trouble.

Chitake is not much hotter than elsewhere in the Zambesi valley. Access is easy. The Tsetse flies are going to be present in a number of areas you will be visiting. Search the forum for the Avon (cosmetics) product initially suggested by MikeAG on this forum. He and many others swear by its effectiveness in repelling tsetses. We used the traditional concoction of Dettol and Tabard cream (or Citronella oil), mixed about 60(Tabard/Citronella)/30(Dettol) in plastic spray-on dispensing bottles. Moderately effective if applied liberally at least every 2 hours. One of our group had a product named Rid, I think Australian insect repellant, which was more effective, Google it!
A visit to Chitake should definately be an absolute priority. You may be given Chitake 2 camp, it is high on a Baobab hill, with not a lot of shade, which might be important in Dec. If you obtain a booking for site 2, you can try and change this later with the ruse that the bees in the well established hive in one of the Baobabs, are making life intolerable. If they can't give you Chitake 1 camp beg and cajole them into giving you the Provisional campsite there, also known as the B.B.C. or Standby camp. It is even worth checking at the park HQ at Marongora, or at the camp offices at Nyamepi, to see if you can find someone of authority to alter your booking. Try all the tricks in the book to get a booking at Chitake.
Being in the north earlier in Dec. will decrease your chances of wet weather problems after the Tashinga turn off. Even on you own I think you should still plan to visit here. There will be other visitors on this route, you will be carrying enough food, but be sure to have enough drinking water for 2/3 days, 40 to 60 liters, in case you get stranded for a day or 2. This is not very likely at all. Consider carrying 2 spare tyres and a complete tyre repair kit. Towing a trailer may give you problems travelling alone.

It would really be a great pity if you abandon you original plan of driving the Karoi-Binga road only because you are now on your own. The road has regular traffic and you are unlikely to be stranded for any length of time. The locals are very friendly, helpful and harmless. I am confident that all who have travelled in Zim would agree that breaking down here is far, far safer than in S.A. In the face of unlikely sudden unfavourable road conditions due to a downpour you will be wiil safely be able to lay up for some hours or even overnight at any convenient place to pull off the road. Chizarira is right on your route and it would be a great pity not to spend at least 2 nights at one of the Mucheni campsites.

I am happy to give more advice on anything else once you have obtained bookings. At the end of the day you must do what you are comfortable with. Except for the road to Tashinga, none of the roads you travel are nearly as bad as the roads down to the Transkei coast and certainly much safer.
We have done a fair amount of exploring in our near northern neighbours and I think there is nothing to beat the Mana,Tashinga, Chizarira and Hwange circuit.

Keep in touch and keep trying.
Stan.

[MikevR]

Hi Kelly,
Read CarloG’s report on his visit to Matusadona and Tashinga. DD 9April 2011. Interesting reading
http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php?p=739848#post739848

There is nothing really daunting about the Binga – Karoi road except the time it takes and the fact that it’s tough in Africa. In the old days we did not have 4x4’s but the good old Peugeot 404 bakkies and they took us on every dirt road imaginable. When we got stuck the locals pushed us out. (Any way so much for reminiscing). My Brother went down in a 2x4 Mazda 2.5 Bakkie towing a boat in Sept / Oct last year. It was an adventure but they got there and back without any punctures. I have been on the Binga road a number of times as the area is really worth visiting. We have never had a puncture and the last time we went on our own without any issues. The secret is getting to the right and comfortable speed on the different sections and having your tyres pressure about 0.25 bar below normal. There are sections with a few sharp rocks. You need to relax and enjoy the trip down the escarpment and don’t rush it.

Reading the interest in Matusadona it is great to see people want to visit. Unfortunately a few of the old camps on the eastern side like Changachirere and Kanjedza River are dilapidated with no facilities. You would need to camp wild. Apparently the Jenje River camp has been privatized. There is the old Senyati camp next to Senyati gorge on the eastern side of Matusadona. I believe one can get to these camps but you need the ranger office to give you a ranger guide or to advise you whether the roads are still passable and if you can go on your own. I would love to take a week off and explore all the roads again.

In line with Stan Weakley’s request to share in the open forum- I am attaching a map that I developed by tracing Google Earth roads. This is was a secret place for me but I would like to see some money poured in through fees and interest in the area.

Give us a good trip report. Don’t miss out on Chizarera and don’t expect facilities. Just enjoy the wild.

Regards

MikevR

[Stan Weakley]

Many thanks Mike, this is the type of spirit that I would like to encourage where ever reasonable.
Stan.

[Horsesense]

Just a quick thank you to you amazing bunch of people, Stan, Mike, Tron, and Sprinter, I cannot thank you enough for your time and effort to give some sound and amazing advice.
Will be back on with any feedback I get re. planning/booking etc, that may assist anyone else looking to do the same trip. Thanks again!

[kimbaleee]

We are planning a similar trip in December - Moremi, Chobe, Hwange, Tashinga. Thx for all the helpful info on here - if there is any more recent advice about what to see/avoid or current road conditions/December road conditions that would be great - or should I start a new thread?

[TRON]

Hi Kimbalee, this takes me back to a long time ago!!! Most of the comments hold to today. I would just suggest that Tashinga will not be doable and will be extremely risky in the rains. Trailers? Number of days and vehicles? You need to supply more detail, also suggest start your own thread.


The Binga-Karoi road is not too bad when dry, but when wet? Also do you intend to do Mana?


You will have enough challenges relative to the Moremi, Chobe and Hwange. Rather spend more time at this places incl Kasane and Vic Falls.