D2 TD5 does not start after driving with flat battery





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  1. #1
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    Default D2 TD5 does not start after driving with flat battery

    Hi all,
    I have a problem with my Discovery 2 TD5.
    The battery mysteriously went flat and that caused the electronics to go mad... with all warning lights suddenly on.
    I then had the battery recharged and the car would start properly again and the voltage was about 14.4V, meaning alternator was in fact working.
    This all happened on a trip down the garden route.
    We then decided to drive back to Cape Town with the car as it seemed to be working properly again.
    Shortly before Sir Lowry pass the engine stopped running after the same signs of low battery again. In fact nothing was working for something like 40km, i.e. no speedometer, no fuel gauge, limited lights, no indicators, etc...
    After being towed back to Cape Town I decided to recharge the battery again, start the car and drive to next LR service station to have it checked and service.
    Unfortunately the car doesnt start anymore. It cranks but does not start.
    Could there be anything else broken now that I drove the car without electronics working?
    What is your suggestion?
    The odo is also flashing now, what I understand is a result of driving wihtout battery and therefore not updating the odo.
    Thanks for your comments.

  2. #2
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    disconnect the battery completely, switch on the lights.
    switch off the lights, reconnect the battery and try again.
    sure the ECU got confused.
    disconnecting the battery should reset the ECU and hopefully will be ok.

    Land Rovers never die, they simply become organ donors!

  3. #3
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    Hi Landyluver, i got the car running again!
    However, I followed the advice in this thread:
    http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...ad.php?t=22676

    I then checked the voltage across the battery while the engine was running: 13.9V! That means the alternator is working?

    What else can cause the battery to go flat? Could it be the battery itself? But it is fully charged now. And everything seems to be running well.

    Can it be something with the lights? Or can it be that the alternator is not charging enough?

    Thanks for the comments.

  4. #4
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    If the reset procedure above gets you going, remember that you still have the power problem.

    Where did you measure 14.4v? Sometimes the alti can put out good voltage but the wiring isn't great and you don't get enough voltage getting to the battery. Measure on the battery terminals, not on the clamps or at the alti or fusebox.
    Check all the connectors at the front of the fusebox and tighten if necessary.
    Check the earth bus just in front of the fusebox.
    Check battery clamps are clamping the terminals tightly when the nut is tight. If not, strip and clean the clamp, particularly the groove between the 2 half circles below the nut.
    I'll assume your fanbelt is ok because you saw 14.4v but check condition anyway. It could be slipping under load and you don't always hear it.

    Can the battery hold charge overnight and tolerate a good minute or so of cranking? (not all at once- bad for the starter) If not, it is tired but it may be tired because something above is wrong.
    Rob
    Defender 90 pickup. Lexus V8, Spitronics, 33" KL71, beadlocks, +2" Terrafirma, ATB's, 3.75 CW&P, 1.21 TC.
    Series IIA 88" pickup
    Disco 2 ES TD5
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  5. #5
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    start her, take the voltage, switch on the lights on bright and take the voltage again.
    if the alternator is on its way out, the voltage will drop significantly.

    Land Rovers never die, they simply become organ donors!

  6. #6
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    Stevento, we posted simultaneously

    13.9v is ok-ish but a little low. Test unloaded (just idling, nothing switched on) and loaded (all lights on, aircon on) and see what your best and worst readings are. Let us know.

    Check all the stuff I mentioned above too.
    Rob
    Defender 90 pickup. Lexus V8, Spitronics, 33" KL71, beadlocks, +2" Terrafirma, ATB's, 3.75 CW&P, 1.21 TC.
    Series IIA 88" pickup
    Disco 2 ES TD5
    Disco 1 ES 300TDi
    Subaru impreza WRX
    Porsche Boxster S
    Shamrock Cobra 350
    Buell XB12R

  7. #7
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    LL, is there an echo in here?
    Rob
    Defender 90 pickup. Lexus V8, Spitronics, 33" KL71, beadlocks, +2" Terrafirma, ATB's, 3.75 CW&P, 1.21 TC.
    Series IIA 88" pickup
    Disco 2 ES TD5
    Disco 1 ES 300TDi
    Subaru impreza WRX
    Porsche Boxster S
    Shamrock Cobra 350
    Buell XB12R

  8. #8
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    hagu, stop sniffing that crayfish and leave me some!

    Land Rovers never die, they simply become organ donors!

  9. #9
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    Hi again,
    I did some testing this morning.
    The voltage across the battery was 14.4V when engine was idling and 14.1V when all consumers switched on, i.e. head lamps, indicators, aircon, radio, etc...
    sounded too good I thought!
    then I took it for a drive until it was warm and measured again just idling: 12.1V.
    That means, there seams to be a loose wire somewhere or how can you explain this? Is this a fault of the alternator itself? or is it maybe something around the fusebox?
    Thanks for the help so far... Any further comments are very much appreciated.
    thanks a lot...

  10. #10
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    Repeat this test but this time measure across the battery and also at the alternator terminal to engine and alternator terminal to chassis.

    This will tell you whether you have a bad alternator or bad wiring- either between alti and battery, or engine earth.

    Your battery seems fine but make sure you charge it again after every drive while you're faultfinding, otherwise you might damage it.
    Rob
    Defender 90 pickup. Lexus V8, Spitronics, 33" KL71, beadlocks, +2" Terrafirma, ATB's, 3.75 CW&P, 1.21 TC.
    Series IIA 88" pickup
    Disco 2 ES TD5
    Disco 1 ES 300TDi
    Subaru impreza WRX
    Porsche Boxster S
    Shamrock Cobra 350
    Buell XB12R

  11. #11
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    get one of those battery monitors with the little led lights.
    conveniently stick them somewhere visible and you can assess the volatge on the go. think they are about R100 for the single and R150 for the dual.
    the alternator's regulator may be packing up.

    Land Rovers never die, they simply become organ donors!

  12. #12
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    How old is the battery?
    I Own the Best 4x4s by Far<br><br>Defender TD5 CSW <br>Discovery 4 SDV6 HSE<br>Sprite Tourer SP

  13. #13
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    hi all,
    i tried to get to the bottom of this, however unsuccessful.
    How can you actually measure the voltage at the alternator? and how do you actually get close to it? I don't even get to the cable/plug.
    any recommendation are welcome.
    there seems to be either a loose contact or the regulator does not work properly.
    but sometimes it charges and sometimes not.
    Has anyone an idea to find the real fault? I would like to measure the voltage somewhere near the alternator, but i don't really know how to get there.
    As far as I understand there is one big earth cable and then there is one socket with 2 cables at the back of the alternator, correct?
    how do I check now if there is no fault in the cabling without dismantling the whole engine bay?
    where do these cables go to? maybe that could be another way to test.
    Thanks for your help in advance.

  14. #14
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    positive of multimeter on the thick wire (normally covered with a rubber cap) and the negative on the body of the alternator.
    if however you measure the voltage at the battery with engine off and then with engine running, if it registers a higher voltage when running, that is most likely the voltage she is charging at and the voltage when off is the voltage carried by the battery.
    the potential difference is what charges the battery.
    check your fuses. have not gone through the diagrams recently but remember the alternator is fed by current in order to generate current. if the power supply to the alternator is absent, it will never charge. check the plug on the back of the alternator to see if clean and makes decent contact.
    Last edited by Landyluvver; 2011/04/28 at 07:43 PM.

    Land Rovers never die, they simply become organ donors!

  15. #15
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    I would remove the regulator off the back of the alternator and check the brushes. It sounds like they might have worn down to the "not really making contact stage"

  16. #16
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    couple of tips when removing the alternator.
    1) remove fan
    2) remove serpentine belt
    3) remove pulley off tensioner - if you don't do this it is hell to get to the bolt on the front of the alternator.
    4) loosen but dont remove the oil pipe above the vacuum pump against the engine (so that you can swing the pipe about a bit.
    5) unplug the plug from the back. remove the cable from on top of alternator.
    6) remove the alternator after undoing the 2 pipes and the bolts.

    testing and working on the alternator is much easier once it is out of the car.

    Land Rovers never die, they simply become organ donors!

  17. #17
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    thanks a lot for the comments and recommendations. i will try over the weekend. but it sounds like a mission! why did they design it so that it is that hard to get access to the alternator??
    will first check the thick cable. So that is plus! got it...
    how would you do the testing once the alternator is removed from the car?
    thanks a lot!

  18. #18
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    Steven, what you need to do before removing the alternator is get under the car and get the multimeter probes into the alternator plug. Then start the car and test voltage.

    But before you do this check the battery terminals, the earth cable and the live and earth busses at the fusebox. With the engine running try to find a voltage of better than 12.6 anywhere. If you are getting alternator voltage anywhere but not on the battery then you have a wiring issue, not an alti issue.

    Removing the alti is a bit of a nightmare so should be a last resort. Most autosparkies can test it on a bench once out.
    Rob
    Defender 90 pickup. Lexus V8, Spitronics, 33" KL71, beadlocks, +2" Terrafirma, ATB's, 3.75 CW&P, 1.21 TC.
    Series IIA 88" pickup
    Disco 2 ES TD5
    Disco 1 ES 300TDi
    Subaru impreza WRX
    Porsche Boxster S
    Shamrock Cobra 350
    Buell XB12R

  19. #19
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    hi all,
    i did the testing and could not get any higher voltage than 12.1V this time anywhere.
    so i guess it is the alternator...
    also, i pushed a bit on the connector on the back of the alternator and then suddenly the red battery warning light came up! i was missing that the whole time!
    i then looked at removing the alternator, but it seems like a mission.
    apparently you first have to remove the fan, the belt and a few other things.
    guess it will be easier to just have it serviced? i don't have the tools to remove the fan....
    thanks for any comments.

  20. #20
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    You can make a fan removal tool from a piece of 6mm steel plate- just cut a 36mm slot in it. Or buy a 36 spanner and grind to 6mm thick.

    Where are you located?
    Rob
    Defender 90 pickup. Lexus V8, Spitronics, 33" KL71, beadlocks, +2" Terrafirma, ATB's, 3.75 CW&P, 1.21 TC.
    Series IIA 88" pickup
    Disco 2 ES TD5
    Disco 1 ES 300TDi
    Subaru impreza WRX
    Porsche Boxster S
    Shamrock Cobra 350
    Buell XB12R

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