NAMIBIA: North and West, Trip report, Feb 2011 - Page 2





Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 58
  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Welgelegen, Cape Town
    Age
    57
    Posts
    1,948
    Thanked: 169

    Default

    Awesome, flippin awesome trip report. Your day 6 nightmare, fortunatley I had Jan Joubert's book, and plotted our root using his waypoints on T4A, and had no problems staying on the route.

    Can't wait to do it again!!!

    Our route that day:
    EpupaCamp
    OmurambaFounta
    Okangwati
    Etengwa
    Okauwa
    Ovivero
    Otjitanda
    Otjitanda
    HAAY
    [Bad Gravel]
    Otjihaavillage
    Otjiha Plains
    OnjuvaVillage
    Marblemine

    Toyota D4D Legend 45
    Triton Clubcab 2x4 2.5 DID
    Bushlapa Vlooi 652

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    East London
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,721
    Thanked: 3872

    Default NAMIBIA: North and West, Trip report, Feb 2011

    TRIP REPORT: NORTHERN AND WESTERN NAMIBIA. 2011
    FINAL INSTALMENT


    DAY 20 WEDNESDAY 16/02/2011

    TERRACE BAY TO ARREBUSCH WINDHOEK

    730km 10hrs 30mins

    Sadly we were now making our way home. Although out of touch, we had heard tales of the Ariamsvlei border post being closed because of floods. We decided to make decisions about the route home once we could obtain more accurate information further south.
    After 55mins and 57km we reached the turnoff to Khorixas via the Springbokwasser Gate on the C39. This route is so much more scenic than the C35 between Uis and Henties that I would advise everyone to approach the coast via the C39 even if it is not your most direct route. Most times of the year you will need to book for Terrace Bay well in advance to be sure of getting in for your chosen days. There would then not be a need to visit Swakop or Henties Bay and the C39 could be used to approach the coast. With the benefit of hindsight I would leave Swakop and Henties off my route altogether. We might have been better off doing this, but as we had no prebookings deliberately, we had no choice as I had to obtain bookings for Terrace Bay from N.W.R. to be allowed entrance into the Skeleton National Park. These are not available at the entrance gates. We could then instead have spent some time at Spitskoppe and/or Palmwag Rhino Camp.
    Although relatively jaded towards the end of a long trip, we thoroughly enjoyed this section through Damaraland. At first there were many Welwichias along the road and we stopped to admire these ancient plants. There were many mountain ranges fading off into the distance and we saw plenty of Springbok, Gemsbok and even Mountain Zebra in the conservancies along this route. The vegetation and grass were progressively greener as we proceeded. We visited the Petrified forest off the C39 before Khorixas. Really worth a visit if passing by, with a very informative guide costing R30pp for the 25min walk. Beware though of the 4 or 5 false sites signposted before you reach the official natural heritage site at S 20 26.347 E 14 36.369. Near Outjo stopped and bought the indigenous mushrooms mentioned previously.
    Once on the B1 to Windhoek there were plenty of radar speed traps, even long after 5 P.M. These guys are not scared of work, unlike our officials at home. In Windhoek we checked in at Arrebusch well known to many of us. Standard room (not self catering), at R740 for 2, no breakfast. We enjoyed their special for the night in the restuarant, a very tender and tasty T-bone steak for only R60. This large, secure and busy lodge and camp is absolutely fine and also very convenient, lying on the route passing south on the outskirts of Windhoek, avoiding the city center completely. Just try and obtain a place as far from the busy B1 road as possible.

    DAY 21 THURS 17/02/2011

    WINDHOEK TO UPINGTON

    970km 11hrs 20mins

    We checked in Keetmanshoop and found that the road to the Ariamsvlei had been reopened. The B3 had been completely washed away for a distance of about 100m where a small river had flooded. A dirt road detour a few km long had been built, also bypassing a length of road that had been severely undermined. This detour appeared to be very vulnerable to the next heavy rains and will remain so over the few months needed to carry out the major road rebuild required. We passed through the border posts with only a perfunctory vehicle search on the S.A. side. They did not see the large hessian (plastic) bag of Mopani wood we had forgotten on the roof rack. I promise to burn this as soon as possible. This was a genuine oversight on my part.
    All the B+Bs in Upington were full and we spent the night in a granny flat type of place which was fine for the night. Thanks to the lady at Affinity Guest House who took the trouble to phone around for us.

    DAY 22 FRIDAY 18/02/2011

    UPINGTON TO EAST LONDEN

    1001km 12hrs 05mins

    The Orange river was still flowing strongly but there was no evidence of flood damage that we could see. There had obviously been good rains all along the route in our absence and we travelled in intermittent rain for some of the route. This long drive was made possible by sharing the driving.
    The total distance covered in 22 days was 8041km and the total driving time was 120hrs according to my shaky arithmetic. I must point out that most of the distance was covered in the first 3 and last 3 days, i.e. 5400 km in 6 days.

    STATITICS
    COST OF DIESEL R10,390.22
    VOLUME OF DIESEL 1236.39
    CONSUMPTION 6km/l

    MEMORIES ARE MADE OF THESE---HIGHLIGHTS
    1) The lush green grass and trees in areas that had received lots of rain e.g. north of Windhoek and central Damaraland.
    2) Boat cruise at KRL
    3) Birding at KRL
    4) The solitude and privacy of the empty camps
    5) Lovely Mopani camp fires and watching “bush TV”
    6) Seeing Epupa Falls
    7) van Zyl’s Pass
    8) Seeing no other vehicle for 4 days
    9) The Marienfluss
    10) The Baine’s Mountains
    11) Seeing the Himba and their natural lifestyle in the Marienfluss and Hartman’s valleys
    12) Desert elephant in Hoanib river bed
    13) Stuck in mud for more than 4 hours in Hoanib river bed
    14) Flash floods at Aba Huab river
    15) Flocks of termite-seeking birds near Aba Huab
    16) Friendliness of staff and other guests at Terrace Bay
    17) My first (small) West coast Steenbras
    18) The Community camps
    19) The wild mushrooms

    WHAT WOULD I DO DIFFERENTLY
    1) See Ruacana Falls
    2) Camp rather than chalet at KRL
    3) Remember to take Tracks4Africa S.D. card
    4) Sleep in community camp on top of van Zyl’s pass
    4) Travel slower over van Zyl’s and savour it more
    5) Skip the stay in Khowarib/ Sesfontein area
    6) Skip Swakopmund
    7) Take route via Springbokwasser Gate to Skeleton Coast
    8) Spend time at Spitzkoppe
    9) Stay at Rhino Camp at Palmwag
    10) Ensure I had Jan Joubert’s book “4x4 routes in Namibia” with me
    11) Walk ALL obstacles before driving through them, without exception.

    I hope this report was enjoyed by readers as much as we enjoyed the trip. I trust it will encourage others to undertake this exploration and remind others of their time spent here. To explore the whole of the Kaokoveld and Damaraland needs a minimum of a month. There are definitely many areas , that to others would be inexcusable to miss, not covered by us.

    NEXT TRIP: CENTRAL KALAHARI GAME RESERVE 15 April to 2 May 2011
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Hellhole campsite Torra Bay.jpg 
Views:	267 
Size:	39.5 KB 
ID:	89309   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Namib dessert at coast.jpg 
Views:	238 
Size:	78.1 KB 
ID:	89310   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Male and Female Welwitchia.jpg 
Views:	242 
Size:	187.6 KB 
ID:	89311   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Petrified forest on way to Korixas.jpg 
Views:	445 
Size:	178.6 KB 
ID:	89312  

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to Stan Weakley For This Useful Post:


  4. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    East London
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,721
    Thanked: 3872

    Default Bird Photos

    Thank you for your interest Spook. My photographic skills are still a project in evolution. The bird pics I took are really not good enough to post.

    Stan

  5. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Pretoria
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,264
    Thanked: 181

    Default

    Stan, it's quite interesting to see we were not the only ones that made the mistake not to go and see the Ruacana Falls. That's something I do regret and that is one of the reasons why I will be going back some day.
    "If you don't care where you are, you ain't lost"

  6. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Caprivi Houseboat Safari Lodge, Katima Mulilo
    Age
    49
    Posts
    1,343
    Thanked: 67

    Default

    Stan

    Excellent report. Those Hoanib elephants can make life interesting.

    And charge!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (Sneaky cow. Acting all innocent. Lucky we were ready.)
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by sandbug; 2011/03/08 at 09:31 PM.

  7. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    East London
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,721
    Thanked: 3872

    Default NAMIBIA: North and West, Trip report, Feb 2011

    For those interested my diesel consumption on tar and dirt on this trip varied quite a lot.

    TAR.......6.6km/l
    DIRT......4.7km/l

    Just to remind you this was a Land Cruiser 76 series (4.2l diesel) Station waggon. Heavily loaded, goods on roofrack.
    On tar tried to travel between 100 to 120km/hr, so foot close to flat.
    Dirt included some low range, van Zyl's and Rooidrom passes and long sections in the dry river beds.

    Stan.
    Last edited by Stan Weakley; 2011/03/13 at 04:39 PM. Reason: MISTAKE

  8. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Windhoek
    Age
    57
    Posts
    559
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Absolutely brilliant report Stan! Being a born Namibian, this brought huge amounts of good memories (and dare I say some tears too) back again!

    Thanks!

    Louis


    Stock standard 99 Pajero 3.5

  9. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Gaborone
    Age
    70
    Posts
    6,886
    Thanked: 1032

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Weakley View Post
    For those interested my diesel consumption on tar and dirt on this trip varied quite a lot.

    TAR.......6.6l/km
    DIRT......4.7l/km

    Just to remind you this was a Land Cruiser 76 series (4.2l diesel) Station wagon. Heavily loaded, goods on roof rack.
    On tar tried to travel between 100 to 120km/hr, so foot close to flat.
    Dirt included some low range, van Zyl's and Rooidrom passes and long sections in the dry river beds.

    Stan.
    Stan,
    Absolutely stunning report and great inspiration to visit "out of season".
    Thanks for the trouble of so detailed event description, it actually took me about 10 days to read it in my spare time - appreciated indeed.

    Just a short remark:
    I guess the diesel consumption should read
    TAR .....6.6 Km/L
    DIRT ....4.7 Km/L which makes it more realistic

    Hope you will enjoy CKGR as well, and welcome to my backyard then. I will be on the way up North to the delta at the same time then join part of your Nam trip route to end up in Cape Town by mid May 2011.

    Bush travelers greetings.... /// Walter
    Kalahari Safari
    ORRA Call: WB58 | ICASA ZRF430
    Nissan Patrol GU TB45
    | Nissan Safari GU TD42 | B'rakah 4x4 Trailer
    E34 - 535i for a bit of nostalgia
    E39 - 540i for the open roads

  10. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    East London
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,721
    Thanked: 3872

    Default Correction

    Thanks Walter, wide awake hey! Have corrected.
    Stan.

  11. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Cape Town
    Age
    63
    Posts
    10,227
    Thanked: 2967

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Weakley View Post
    We passed another landmark, a bakkie that had detonated a landmine during the border conflict about 20-30 years ago. It was full of shrapnel holes and evoked some old and buried memories. There must have been some mortalities! I wonder if anyone can fill me in on exactly what happened here?
    Hi Stan,

    Great report, brought back a lot of memories. I worked in Namibia as a correspondent from 1983 to 1985, and travelled the same route as you did extensively on anti-poaching patrols with the EWT et al. Subsequently went back to the Kaokoveld on four or five big trips - I have never heard of any land mines in that area, and I think the bakkie you photographed was an old Isuzu not far from Orupembe that burned out because of grass seeds in its exhaust - also burned out a huge section of veld, and subsequently got shot full of holes by various trigger happy travellers. Myself and Garth Owen Smith went through there not long after it happened (mid 1984) and the suspicion was that it belonged to rhino poachers.

  12. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Swakopmund
    Age
    49
    Posts
    382
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Stan, this is one of the best trip reports I have read. Thank you for taking the time to post it. It looks like you had an AMAZING trip. I so want to go up to Ruacana / Epupa Falls, but we can only get enough leave in August .. and then the river is low and the falls non-existent. Perhaps we should just go to Kunene river lodge for a few days as you seem to think it was one of the best campsites..?

  13. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Swakopmund
    Age
    49
    Posts
    382
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Stan, I see that you are in CKGR from 15 April .. we will be there from 16 -22 April 2011. What camp are you staying in ? if you'd like, PM me and we can swap contact details and meet up for a cold one. Thanks.

  14. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    East London
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,721
    Thanked: 3872

    Default Ckgr

    Hi Gobabisgirl,
    See this thread http://http://www.4x4community.co.za...ad.php?t=79240

    Please look out for my wife Anne and I, perhaps we can share a fire together. Look out for white Land cruiser 76 series E C registration.

    Keep well, Stan.

  15. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Wydsbeen
    Age
    73
    Posts
    1,548
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Tony,

    I agree. Orupembe was out of Terr's routes. That was quite an inactive area.
    They mostly used the Ruacana powerline for guidance into the farming areas and towards major towns. In those years the line was newly erected and was visible for many kilometers.

    Poaching was at a peak, including locals, farmers and Government ministers. Let me shut my trap

    PS: Going that way on Thursday - no planning just some clothes and money. Call it travel the easy way.
    Last edited by galius; 2011/03/15 at 08:45 AM. Reason: PS

  16. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    The "Burg"
    Age
    64
    Posts
    25
    Thanked: 3

    Default Trip report

    Hi Stan, just loved reading your trip report and it is of particular interest to me as I am about to embark on a 21 day trip to Kaokoland with two other vehicles. For some of us it will be a first ever to Namibia if you don’t count military service. We will depart on 3rd May and the two first days will be hectic. Jhb. To Gobabis and Gobabis to Windhoek so that we can stock up and enjoy what the city has to offer.
    I have some questions; if we decide to overnight (camping) in Windhoek area, will you recommend it? And where? What are must do’s in Windhoek (eat, drink, see)?
    Do you think that we can do our trip in Kaokoland without booking in advance as we do not want to be bound by dates.
    Any other good stuff that you can pass on will be appreciated.
    Johan Els
    Prado 150 VX D4D
    Bush Lapa Boskriek #582

  17. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    East London
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,721
    Thanked: 3872

    Default Kaokoland

    Hi Shrek,
    as you might have noticed Pete Morgan of Kunene River Lodge feels May is the best month in Kaokaland, so good choice.

    I think my report reflects my feelings about a trip in this area. After one trip to this area I am by no means an expert so please accept what follows in the correct context. When I am looking for advice I prefer the advisor to commit himself to his own point of view rather than being wishy-washy.

    In summary I would try to spend a good deal of time along the Kunene, Kunene River Lodge warrents the most time (2/3 nights), Epupa 2 nights, Okarahombo 2 nights.

    Don't skip van Zyl's pass, with your vehicle it is no problem. Just take it slowly and stop at all the view points. I definately rushed this pass too much. Also see if you can prelocate the community camp site on the top of the pass as I am confident this will be a memorable place to overnight. Try Tracks for Africa. You can also just bush camp on the top of the pass anywhere that you can pull the vehicles off the road.

    The Marienfluss valley after the pass will be a real highlight and is worth traversing slowly over a whole day whilst heading north to Okarahombo camp. Apparently in May, after the good rains, the grasslands look like fields of wheat rippling in the breeze.

    The trip down the various dry river beds with the desert elephants is another highlight. I think that in May there might be plenty of elephants in the camp at Purros.

    I personally would not spend too much time in Windhoek, perhaps a night on the way up and another on the way back, others will no doubt feel differently. The place to stay here is Arrebusch, chalets, camping and a good restuarant. If you enjoy an outing for a meal and a beer then don't miss Joe's Beerhouse, very different and atmospheric. Don't go on a weekend night if you can help it, quite a few teenyboppers hanging around.

    At that time of the year the fishing is nothing special and I would not bother going all the way up to Terrace Bay. Henties Bay is in my opinion nothing special and Swakop. should give you enough of a taste of the west coast.

    I also do not like to commit myself to fixed bookings and I think you are unlikely to be turned away anywhere, but May is the start of the tourist season which only peaks in June, July, August, so there may be some risk.

    You are in for a fantastic trip. I am sure other forum members with more experience than me will be able to make valuable suggestions.

    Stan.

  18. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    The "Burg"
    Age
    64
    Posts
    25
    Thanked: 3

    Thumbs up Kaokoland

    Hi Stan,
    Much appreciated. It serves to confirm what I already had in mind as framework for this trip, must be the influence of your trip report. I believe we have so much to look forward to, very excited!!
    Johan Els
    Prado 150 VX D4D
    Bush Lapa Boskriek #582

  19. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Stockton-on-Tees England
    Age
    77
    Posts
    851
    Thanked: 1

    Default

    Thanks for that report - I must get down to mine soon but 6 months is a long time to report on !!

    Your comments on Roof of Africa in Windhoek were interesting as on previous trips we have always stayed there and recommended it to others however at the beginning of our last trip we stayed there as usual on arrival but certainly found it was not up to previous standards and then the car which we had arranged to take us to the Intercape bus at 6am did not appear andthe housekeepers husband had to be got out of bed to get us there by the skin of our teeth.
    On our return journey at the end of the trip we actually did the Intercape journey from Walvis Bay right through to Midrand without an overnight break and saved ourselves quite a bit of money.

    Jo's of course should not be missed.

    Margaret
    Margaret

  20. #39
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Patensie
    Age
    57
    Posts
    1,334
    Thanked: 22

    Default

    Stan thank you very much for a awesome report. Next year May I will be following you tracks except for Van Zyls pass as I will be towing. I might include Etosha and Caprivi

  21. #40
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Swakopmund
    Age
    49
    Posts
    382
    Thanked: 0

    Default Ckgr

    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Weakley View Post
    Hi Gobabisgirl,
    See this thread http://http://www.4x4community.co.za...ad.php?t=79240

    Please look out for my wife Anne and I, perhaps we can share a fire together. Look out for white Land cruiser 76 series E C registration.

    Keep well, Stan.
    hi Stan,
    Will def look out for you guys .. we are in a silver Prado GP reg, with sharks sparewheel cover. We have heard that the roads are WET. Am looking forward to seeing lots of lion ..
    travel safe.
    Lyn

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Tony Weaver's Mozambique trip report
    By Tony Weaver in forum Mozambique
    Replies: 58
    Last Post: 2016/07/12, 03:39 PM
  2. Botswana - Zambia Trip Report - July 2009
    By Paolo Candotti in forum Zambia
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 2011/08/03, 02:40 PM
  3. Moremi and Chobe trip report, July 2010
    By lvarro in forum Botswana
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 2011/07/19, 02:38 PM
  4. Trip Report - Moz, Niassa Park, Malawi - P. de Wet
    By PierredW in forum Mozambique
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 2011/01/11, 09:12 AM
  5. Trip to West Coast North of Salt Pans
    By alverm in forum Western Cape
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 2010/01/28, 02:41 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •