Trip Report: Kaokoland Dec 2010

[Greg]

This is a report on my recent trip to Kaokoland! It was out first “overland” type of holiday…

This was our second trip to Namibia – previously, we had visited Southern Nambia, Sossusvlei, Etosha and Swakopmund.

I read loads of trip reports to try to get an idea of what to expect, and to help plan the route and to be as prepared as possible. We didn’t pre-book anything for the trip, but had a rough itinerary that we would follow and modify as we went. We were 2 vehicles – myself and my fiancee in a SWB Pajero, and my friend and his fiancee in a HJ62 Land Cruiser. The basic idea was to head to Ruacana, then follow the Kunene to Epupa, then go via Van Zyl’s to the Marienfluss, then down to Puros, then make our way home. Below is a map that shows our basic route. The overall distance was about 5500km.



Before we left, I prepared my Pajero for the trip - roof top tent, fridge/freezer, bash plate and BFG KM2 tires. I had read many trip reports that spoke about 3+ punctures, so I felt much more confident with new M/T tires as I did not have space to carry a 2nd spare. Thanks to Christo on this forum for letting me test drive his Pajero with muds before I made my purchase!



I also built a bit of a packing system using aluminium tubing and Maizey connectors (based on various designs on this forum) – thanks to all those that gave me advise! J SimonB, Davidvan, DavidH, etc. I also made a shelf/tray that could hold 4 x 20L jerry cans so that I could easily have a range of 1000km.

[Greg]

16 Dec 2010: Durbanville to Keetmanshoop

We left Durbanville early on 16 Dec, and pretty much drove straight to Keetmanshoop. It was raining heavily around Clanwilliam, so progress was slow. That night we camped at Quivertree Forest Rest Camp. It is a really nice spot for a stop over (which we had visited before).





17 Dec 2010: Keetmanshoop to Dinosaur Tracks

We left late morning, and only arrived at Dinosaur tracks just after dark L On the way, we drove some dirt roads after Okahandja that lead to the Erindi Game Reserve/Lodge – it was a scenic drive. Along this route, there are a few security gates (part of the Erindi Lodge) but there were no problems, and they seemed used to people passing though. That evening, we arrived at Dinosaur Tracks, and the German owner let us in, after explaining that he doesn’t normally let people arrive after dark (which I can understand).



18 Dec 2010: Dinosaur Tracks to Kamanjab

The next morning, we had a look at the dinosaur tracks that are fossilized into rocks. If you are into fossils, I’m sure you’ll find the place interesting, but it is definitely not necessary to spend time here otherwise. The camp is neat, but is between trees / bushes, so not much view. We headed for Kamanjab, and on route, we stopped at Fingerklip – amazing views from Fingerklip – giraffe in the distance.





We decided to stay at Porcupine Camp (just outside Kamanjab). This was a neat campsite, which offers dinners and a tented camp as well as camp sites. The owner puts food out every night so that visitors can see the porcupines feeding – she knew everything about porcupines! Very interesting. One was actually tame, that she had hand reared, but the rest were all wild.

[Greg]

19 Dec 2010: Kamanjab to Klein Serengeti

We filled up at Kamanjab (I also filled one jerry can, just in case), and headed west out of Kamanjab to the start of the Otjitheka Eco-trail, which would lead us to the Klein Serengeti. It was a very scenic trail, were we spotted some game along the way – mountain zebra, and some springbok. The actual 4x4 trail was quite varied - rocks, sand, everything. There were many palms trees with palm nuts on the floor – we soon found out that these palm nuts are insanely hard, and this is what the locals keep trying to sell us a key ring (carved with your name). 8)









As we neared the Klein Serengeti, and the scenery had more grasslands, it was clear that there was lots of game around – loads of tracks and droppings everywhere – even elephant droppings. That night we bush camped for the first time, used a spade as a toilet – was great!

[Greg]

20 Dec 2010: Klein Serengeti to Khowareb Schlucht

The next morning, we continued in the Klein Serengeti, which led to the Khowareb Schlucht. Wow! The Khowareb Schlucht eco-trail is amazing! The “canyon” that you drive through is beautiful. When we stopped for lunch in the river bed, we spotted a lot of elephant dung… and a bit later we found the elephant We also spotted a giraffe next to the river side trees. It was very hot that day (luckily a dry heat!) and we also learned that thin sandals don’t do much for Namibia thorns!















We arrived at the Khowareb Schlucht community camp in the afternoon - we almost stopped a few km earlier at what we thought was the camp, but it is an old abandoned camping spot. The real community camp has proper facilities – toilets, showers, etc. Very neat and scenic camp! Highly recommended.

[Greg]

21 Dec 2010: Khowareb Schlucht to Opuwo

The next morning, we did a quick hike up the “koppie” next the camp site. The views from there were amazing – highly recommended (no real path, just a climb). There is also a man made waterfall near the camp - nice for a cool off! You get to see the schulcht from a good height from the “koppie”, and we spotted a campsite/lodge next to the community camp… and it had a pool! We stopped by at the lodge on our way out of the schlucht for a drink and they allowed us to have a swim. The Khowareb Schlucht Lodge is very new, and they are busy with a camping area and ablutions at the moment, so it will be a good spot to consider in the near future.











We drove along the C43 to Opuwo – a quick drive – dunno why T4A seems to want to avoid it, but is was a very good gravel road. We spent the night at the Opuwo Country Hotel camping area. It has all the facilities you’ll need, and the lodge has a beautiful pool and restaurant. It was nice to chill at the pool again and have a few beers!

[Greg]

22 Dec 2010: Opuwo to Swaartbooisdrift

We stocked up with food, drinks and fuel in the morning before we left – I filled all 4 of my jerry cans. The shops at Opuwo are a bit chaotic – when you stop, locals swarm around you trying to sell you bracelets and necklaces, and everyone wants to look after your car. There are loads of general people begging for money. Luckily we were already well stocked, so we soon hit the road to Swaartbooisdrift via gravel roads. We stopped at the Dorsland Memorial site, and camped at the Kunene River Lodge.



Camping here was great! Grass, loads of shady trees, a pool – beautiful! Electricity for a few hours per night, and a nice deck at the river edge to have a drink at the bar. Watch out for the moneys though – they stole a few slices of our only loaf of bread! There are loads of birds and monitor lizards to keep you entertained.

[Madota]

Stunning pics Greg

[Henris]

...........It was out first “overland” type of holiday…...................

I am assuming it will not be the last.

Be very careful. This is highly addictive.

[Greg]

23 Dec 2010: Swaartbooisdrift to Enyandi

We left the River Lodge midday, and drove the first half of the Kunene Eco-trail. It was a nice trail, but not that scenic. Along the way you could see the Zebra Mountains to the south.









The campsite at Enyandi was terrible – worse than a bush camp. It was covered in the local farmers cow poo, and was basically a piece of ground with a broken fence around it. In hindsight, we should have rather bush camped somewhere – some local Himbas charged us $45 per person for staying at Enyandi – they one guy was so drunk that he couldn’t walk Later on his wife dragged him away! It was all very comical and it was very difficult not to burst out laughing. We saw some crocs in the river… their eyes shine at night if you spot them with a torch.

[Greg]

I am assuming it will not be the last.

Be very careful. This is highly addictive.

Hehe It definitely won't be the last... But I learned a lot this holiday - about how to plan future overland trips. We packed in a bit too much for a relaxing end of year trip

[Greg]

24 Dec 2010: Enyandi to Epupa Falls

We left the camp early, and headed for Epupa Falls.





We arrived before midday, and checked out the various campsites in the area. We chose Omarunga Lodge, as they have a neat campsite, excellent (really excellent) bathrooms, and a pool! Right next door was Koos Verwey’s camp (Epupa Falls Camp) – it was also very pretty, with a deck near the falls, but no pool. The Hot Springs Community Camp was closed, and the Epupa Camp (to the east) didn’t have nice camping spots. None of the campsites had electricity for the campers.











We decided to camp one night and treat ourselves to a lodge for one night. Of all the areas, this might have been a good idea to book, if you wanted a river side spot.

[Greg]

More to come! I'll post the rest tomorrow!

[AVM]

Hi Greg
Did any of these facilities required prior booking?

[Davidvan]

Wow that looks like it was an awesome trip, just love that area. Some great photos too, the place in Opuwa looks nice, a bit more out of the town which looks great.

[Frans Reichert]

Nice report Greg!

[Milkman]

Greg, you have my mouth watering. Going in March for 4 weeks, can't wait. Did you book anywhere?

Great report.

[witklipbank]

Ons was in Junie 2010 ook daardie deel van namibie. Nerens geboek nie, Oral slaapplek gekry.

PRAGTIGE FOTO'S . WOW, HET SOMMER LUS OM TERUG TE GAAN.

Moet se, die geriewe by Opuwu Hotel is 5 ster. Dit is op die koppie en sien jy uit oor die dorp en die distrik. Kampering slegs R80pppn. Sal dit beslis aanbeveel.

[hoenner]

Now that is a trip report..I am green.

Thanks for sharing

[hugh101]

Hi Greg
Awesome Pics
I don't know if you remember me, you passed us on Van Zyl's pass, The Grey 90 and White 110 with the Prado with the caravan ? Good to hear you guys made it safe and sound
I'm looking forward to hear about the rest of your trip

Cheers
Hugh

[Greg]

Hi Greg
Did any of these facilities required prior booking?

Greg, you have my mouth watering. Going in March for 4 weeks, can't wait. Did you book anywhere?

Great report.

Hi,

I didn't book anywhere... and I got a spot everywhere we went

At Omarunga, I couldn't get a river side camp spot for 2 days in a row as these were booked.
At Puros I also had to camp under a tree (not a real campsite).

Cheers
Greg