Part catalogs & other useful info - Page 5





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  1. #81
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    bellville
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    57
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    2006 - 2010 Commander XK complete repair manual--128MB download

    http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/...ad.php?t=26673
    http://1drv.ms/1ur68jy
    Last edited by simplesimon; 2015/05/15 at 09:34 PM.

    1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L - 245000km
    http://www.2k11.co.za

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Meyerton
    Age
    40
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    939
    Thanked: 16

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    We purchased our Jeep with about 105,000 miles clocked, and I soon found out that quite a bit of routine maintenance had been neglected by the previous owner(s). After a couple months I started hearing a squeaking noise from underneath the vehicle which matched tire speed at lower RPMs. After a bit of checking around, I discovered that this is a fairly common problem in newer Jeeps, and it is commonly referred to as "angry sparrows." The problem is apparently due to inadequate sealing/lubrication in the stock constant velocity (CV) assembly of the front drive shaft. Online Jeep message boards seem to have dozens of "my jeep is squeaking" questions, all eventually diagnosed as the same CV issue.
    It has been suggested that it is possible to spray lubricating oil into the CV assembly, under the dust cover, to temporarily eliminate the squeaking noise. If this method is effective in eliminating the squeaking noise, it is likely that the CV assembly is failing. While the oil is a helpful diagnostic tool, and it may temporarily eliminate the squeaking noise, it should be noted that this is not a solution to the problem, and some maintenance should be performed in the near future.
    The most common online resource addressing the "angry sparrows" problem is Stu Olson's Jeep Site, where a nice pictorial breakdown of the front drive shaft is available. The guide is easy to follow and covers removal, disassembly and assembly of the front shaft. I have made this page as a supplement, in order to provide a bit more specific information related to the CV assembly overhaul.
    Materials
    Pictured above are most of the items required for a fairly complete overhaul of the front and rear drive shafts. On the left is a Harbor Freight u-joint tool. I long ago learned that having the right tool for the job is crucial for minimizing a painful automotive task. Not pictured is the 24" breaker bar with the socket I used to turn the threaded rod. The u-joints had been in place for about seven years, and I do not think I could have coaxed them out without this tool. Stu uses a small bench-top vise to help remove some of the u-joint caps, and I used a large vise-grips (not pictured) and the hammer. The needle-nose vise grips were used for removal and installation of the retaining rings.
    The ratchet wrench, 8mm socket and 8mm ratcheting wrench were used for the drive shaft removal and installation. When I pulled the front and rear shafts I noticed that most of the bolts had loc-tite, so I made sure to re-apply some to the bolt threads when I re-installed the shafts.
    The six boxes contain five greasable u-joints and the CV centering ball kit. The front shaft requires three u-joints and the rear requires two. The stock u-joints are not serviceable without complete disassembly, as shown in Stu's writeup, so I decided to replace the stock units with Spicer greasable 1310 u-joints. Spicer parts are highly recommended by many, while AutoZone and Precision brand parts were frequently listed as items to avoid. I have no personal experience with these other brands. Part numbers are listed below.
    BrandPart NamePart NumberApproximate PriceSpicer1310 U-joint5-153x$12.95 each at NAPASpicerBall Centering Kit211355x$64.95 at NAPA*RockfordBall Centering KitR2-21-1355$31 online**RockfordCV Repair Kit404-0$12.45 online*alternate to Spicer 211355x, **possible alternative to buying the entire ball centering unit
    CV Disassembly/Assembly
    Pictured above is the actual CV section of the front drive shaft. This type of CV assembly is known as a double cardan. As pictured, the right side bolts up to the front of the transfer case, the left would continue down to the front differential. This picture was taken after re-assembly. After removing the outermost u-joint, the ball centering unit may be freely removed (it will likely fall out). Note that there are needle bearings and a spring inside of the opening on the shaft side. The stock and replacement ball centering units are pictured below for comparison.

    The stamped numbers on the ball centering assemblies matched, but you may note significant design differences, including grease fittings. A close up of the fittings is shown below.

    A standard grease gun will not work with these fittings, so I asked for the appropriate fitting at NAPA when I picked up my parts. They sold me a 'u-joint needle adapter" (NAPA part #715-1213, pictured below), which clips on to the end of a standard grease gun.

    With the outermost u-joint and the ball centering assembly removed, the outer yoke is still attached by the inner u-joint as seen in the picture below. I recommend marking the position of the outer yoke in relation to the shaft to eliminate possible sources of vibration after re-assembly.

    When I removed the inner u-joint, the yoke pushed against the dust cover (black cylinder), knocking it off of the main shaft. I cleaned the cover and it was easily fit back into place by tapping along it's edge with a screwdriver and hammer. The picture below provides a breakdown of these pieces.

    Of note in the above picture is the location of the u-joint grease fitting. The u-joint package included a slip of paper stating that u-joint grease fittings should point away from the yoke when installed. I assume this is to prevent the shaft from binding breaking the fitting. In the completed picture at the top of the page, note that the fitting on the outer u-joint also points away from the yoke.
    The assembly steps were exactly the reverse of my disassembly, with no exceptional difficulties in the process. I applied a thin layer of grease on the metal surfaces of the ball centering assembly and the metal surfaces inside the dust cover pictured above. My only problem occurred when installing the outer u-joint, due to the pressure of the spring in the ball centering unit pushing the u-joint out when I was trying to fit it into the outer yoke. It may be easier to install the outer u-joint in the outer yoke first, then slide the yoke, including ball centering assembly, over the inner u-joint.
    Make sure to grease the u-joints before you take a test drive. I greased them while the drive shaft was still out of the vehicle, because the there is little/no access to the CV fittings with the shaft installed.
    Final Note:
    The overall time I spent on this project, including replacing the two u-joints in the rear shaft, was about four to six hours. Most of my trouble came from stubborn u-joints which were solidly fused in place. If I had to do the project again it would probably take about two hours. Total cost of parts was around $130.00, and an additional $70.00 or so for various tools (including the u-joint tool). The u-joint tool would have been very useful for the pin in the steering stabilizer, and the sockets for the control arms on the anti-sway bar. If "angry sparrows" have been a problem for you lately, hopefully this guide has been a useful supplement to Stu's excellent front shaft teardown.
    Team Rockhard
    Hard Core Jeep's

    Jeep Wrangler TJ - Hers
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  3. #83
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Pretoria
    Age
    48
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    Hi I am looking for a crankshaft for a 2008 Wrangler CRD please
    ROOSTER
    ORRA AG19
    FORTUNER V6 4x4
    JEEP WRANGLER UNLIMITED CRD (SOLD)
    HILUX 2.5DC (SOLD)
    JEEP 4L TJ (SOLD)
    JEEP CJ5 (SOLD)

  4. #84
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Hunters Close, Port Elizabeth
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    52
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    hey guys, didn't see any refrence listed b4 this. in the states one of the big catalogs for jeep parts, and you can litterally build a old CJ from this catalog is JC Whitney

    http://www.jcwhitney.com/

    for aftermarket engine parts you have Jegs
    http://www.jegs.com/
    or Summit Racing
    http://www.summitracing.com/
    or 4x4 parts
    http://www.4wheelparts.com/
    Luke aka Jedi

    1954 Landy Rover Series 1 86"- Rambling Rose
    Best company slogan: Cherrybomb performance exhaust, Disturbing the peace since 1968



  5. #85
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Pretoria
    Age
    35
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    Default Workshop Manuals, Diagrams, Wiring everything you need

    Hi Guy's

    Here is a website with a lot of details, It a free site so there is an irritating pop up on each page but the information is worthy it.

    http://workshop-manuals.com/

    Regard
    Adam

  6. #86
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Durban
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    38
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    Hi there,

    Now, I know this site is in German but it does have links to a few manuals: http://www.jkwrangler.de/manuals/

    He's got some great videos on his YouTube channel as well. Definitely worth a look at!

  7. #87
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Pretoria
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    61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bundu Boy View Post
    I've managed to get myself the manual for the 2002 onwards Jeep Cherokee KJ

    The frikkin thing is 2500 pages worth so there goes my plan to have a hard copy printed
    Hi Bundu Boy,
    Can you still remember where you found the link, sounds like your search/investment was worth it?

    Jeep KK 2.8 CRD 2009
    Pieter Mller

  8. #88
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Upington
    Age
    44
    Posts
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    Default Brake pads rear and front for JK 2009 Rubicon

    Any idea where to get a decent yet cost effective price and supplier of brakepads for my jeep. Need to replace the rear pads and was thinking of getting it from Midas or Auto zone. They just say agents. I know that is bullsh*t. Thank you in advance.

    Peace out
    Vlakkie se ryding -3.8 Rubicon 2009
    Swambo se ryding - A190 Elegence MB 2004
    Taliban se ryding - Prinses scooter
    Porkdog en staffie jaag nogsteeds net Poef aan-STOLEN

    I have friends in overalls whose friendship i would not swap for the favor of the kings of the world -
    Thomas Edison

  9. #89
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Secunda
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    Quote Originally Posted by VLAKVARK75 View Post
    Any idea where to get a decent yet cost effective price and supplier of brakepads for my jeep. Need to replace the rear pads and was thinking of getting it from Midas or Auto zone. They just say agents. I know that is bullsh*t. Thank you in advance.

    Peace out
    Replacef mine from autozone. Ferodos. Saved +/-R1000 for both rear wheels
    Life's a Journey.....Enjoy the bumps.....But only enjoyable in a Jeep of course!

    Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 3.8 V6...Frontrunner Roofrack...Fox Suspension...Replacement Bumpers and Bullbar...Cooper A/T3...Modified exhaust system)

  10. #90
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Lenasia
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    Default Re: Part catalogs & other useful info

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepster Limited View Post
    can you maby give me a link for this manuel plaese, would like to have a better understanding of what goes on under my hood.

    Thanks.
    yip, me too, please send link Thanks

  11. #91
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    somerset east
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    Default Re: Part catalogs & other useful info

    Hi, I am new to this forum, so am finding my way around slowly.
    Where can one get new parts for older Jeep's, that do not cost an arm and a leg as they do from the agents.

  12. #92
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Cape Town
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    39
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    Default Re: Part catalogs & other useful info

    Quote Originally Posted by taylorcedric View Post
    Hi, I am new to this forum, so am finding my way around slowly.
    Where can one get new parts for older Jeep's, that do not cost an arm and a leg as they do from the agents.
    I buy from Aaonline
    '99 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0 @ 143000km
    "Frankenstein" 5" lift | Nomad Bumpers | Safari Snorkel | Gorman rocksliders | Khumo 31x10.5x15 | Jerry can holders | 29Mhz Radio | Custom roof rack | Dual Battery | ARB onboard compressor

  13. The Following User Says Thank You to sclater For This Useful Post:


  14. #93
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Royal Ascot, Cape Town
    Age
    35
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    42
    Thanked: 2

    Default Re: Part catalogs & other useful info

    Who can help me with the part numbers for the high and low beam on a 2001 Grand Cherokee Limited WJ?

    Any suggestions on a better bulb and supplier? Looking for LED if possible

  15. #94
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Pretoria
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    Default Re: Part catalogs & other useful info

    Hi Guys,What antifreeze do you all run in the 4.7 HO?Is the dealers your only option?Please advise.Thank youRiaan

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