Antirust/corrosion treatment





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  1. #1
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    Default Antirust/corrosion treatment

    Hi Guys

    What is the best antirust/corrosion treatment for a new Puma 110 - I'm referring to treating the chassis and underbody - to prevent rust.

    I was referred to someone and went to see him today - he basically said they spray everything (except the propshaft and exhaust) with a black sticky substance (he mentioned it makes a mechanics life hell because a number 14 spanner will no longer work on a no 14 nut because it coats everything). I'm not sure this is the best solution? He also mentioned that they could spray the inside of the chassis (where water gets in, lies there and starts to rust from the inside) with wax. He said the black stuff they use remains sticky (which according to him is better because other products that go hard cause "airpockets" or something and it rusts underneath).

    I've heard of the UK guys treating theirs with waxyol - is that a better option? - if so - who does that here in SA - in Cape Town?

    Any info/ideas will be welcomed. I'm in CT so if anyone can recommend someone here I'd be grateful.

    Is the rhino bakkie lining thing a good option.

    Thanks guys!
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  2. #2
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    Its called Tectyl and you can buy it in spray cans at the local spares. A bitumin based undercoat is most probably what your mechie was talking about. Nothing wrong with that, and seeng that it stay's soft nobody should have a problem working on the vehicle.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teejay View Post

    Is the rhino bakkie lining thing a good option.

    Thanks guys!
    rhino lning is good but it is essential that the preparation is done well.

    failing this the lining will eventually separate.

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    Are they not treated well enough from the factory? I had never heard of this bitumin based stuff and spent a good weekend scraping all of the gunk off my chassis after i bought it. Then i found out what it was haha...

    anyway unless you dunk it into a solution (like they do at the factory?) you will not beable to protect a large portion of the chassis, like in the holes or in hard to reach places like that and therefore unless you get everywhere surely makes the whole exercise futile. If its going to rust itll just do it in the places you didnt get to with spray on or paint on products!
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  5. #5
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    unlike bitumen, rhino is a synthetic application sprayed on. can't remember if it is polyurethane based and there is no just slapping it on.
    generally it is used in the wheel arches to protect against stone damage.

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    Quote Originally Posted by landyluvver View Post
    unlike bitumen, rhino is a synthetic application sprayed on. can't remember if it is polyurethane based and there is no just slapping it on.
    generally it is used in the wheel arches to protect against stone damage.
    Thanks Landyluvver....is it a good idea (in principle) to spray the entire undercarriage with something like that? (not just wheel arches) but the whole undercarriage including diffs etc (excl propshafts and exhaust).

    Do you guys up in Gauteng do anything like this - or does your stuff not rust there?

    I'm looking for a proper solution to protect the chassis and undercarriage from rust. I can already see some rust spots appearing on some of the undercarriage.

    What's this waxoyl stuff they talk about in the UK? Do we get it here?

    Maybe there's some electrolysis solution? (electroplate the chassis)? - or am i going mad....well...i'm already mad!

    Thanks
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  8. #7
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    hey teejay
    yes you can get waxoyl here in SA. general hardware store will stock it. But i understand it to stop rust and reverse the process. A chemical reaction that stops the oxidation. I don't think it is what you need at this point. perhaps just use it on the areas that need to be treated. IMHO i would not treat the whole underside of the chasis. you might end up closing drain holes that you actually need for water to drain out. if you seal these holes and water enters elsewhere besides the underside of the vehicle, then these sealed holes will trap water in and cause rust from within. rather treat it as and when needed and rhino the wheel archs....
    just my 2c worth
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    Guys on the west coast used to have their new bakkies sprayed underneath with a type of pelagic-fish oil (anchovy/sardine), then drive hell-for-leather down a dusty gravel road, dust clung to oil and formed an effective-ish underseal.
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    it is all a matter of economics.
    in the UK it is fairly popular to strip the chassis out and have it galvanised. the long periods of wet weather plus the use of salt on roads to prevent black ice makes conditions a lot harsher than in SA. Cape Town is worse than JHB but still marginal.
    as far as the bodywork is concerned, any application of any sort has the downside that it makes future work very difficult as stripping of sealant has to be performed before work can be carried out. quite often this is not repaired after the work has been done and this area then becomes a potential rust breeding ground.
    i had the back of my nissan covered with Rhino lining and then developed a problem with the fuel sender. i had the option of either removing the Rhino lining to find the cover to the fuel tank or to have the fuel tank removed to get to the sender. i chose the latter which cost about R1000 extra in labour.
    i still don't understand why car manufacturers cannot change the grade of steel used to something more resistant to rust. 3CR12 is a low grade of stainless steel 10x more resitant to rust and will not even add 1/2% to the cost of the vehicle.
    they will use better plastics, better carpets, better paints etc but do very little to improve the quality of the basic steel other than basic prep work or maybe a cadmium plating process as part of the body prep.

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  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdickerson View Post
    hey teejay
    yes you can get waxoyl here in SA. general hardware store will stock it. But i understand it to stop rust and reverse the process. A chemical reaction that stops the oxidation. I don't think it is what you need at this point. perhaps just use it on the areas that need to be treated. IMHO i would not treat the whole underside of the chasis. you might end up closing drain holes that you actually need for water to drain out. if you seal these holes and water enters elsewhere besides the underside of the vehicle, then these sealed holes will trap water in and cause rust from within. rather treat it as and when needed and rhino the wheel archs....
    just my 2c worth
    You make an interesting point - this is exactly what crossed my mind - in fact yesterday I was cleaning the underside of the 110 and I shoved a hose into one of the holes in the chassis and then watched where the water, sand, mud etc all came out of - some of it came out of very small holes (which may well be covered when someone who doesn't give a damn cos it's not his vehicle) just sprays everything in sight with a thick coating of whatever they use.

    As landyluvver (and others) have mentioned - it's difficult for mechanics to then strip and get to stuff as well. I havn't found a suitable solution - will keep looking and post back what I find. I do need to do something but am hesitant to just let someone spray black stuff all over - since they just want to make their money and don't care what happens after that.

    Thanks for the posts so far. There must be someone out there who has found the right solution?
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  12. #11
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    for what it is worth, i use Plascon Coast cote black etch cote primer. it contains a rust converter and rust inhibitor and when applied, goes on thinner than conventional paint. because it is thin it goes well into little holes without blocking up everything. it is similar to NS40? and can even be applied by spraygun if required.
    i'm sure your local panelbeater will be able to do it at a nominal price if you don't have the facilities.
    once a year i will take the vehicle to the valet place up the road, let them high pressure clean every nook and cranny underbody and the allow to dry properly. i will then paint as far as i can reach every steel component.
    i know it is not perfect but better than nothing.

    it may also be worth finding the lowest points on the chassis and drilling a drain hole to ensure water evacuated the chassis properly. just treat for rust after drilling.

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  13. #12
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    Use Tectyl. You get the black one, called Bodysafe, which is used on the underbody. It remains soft, does not interfere with repairs later on. Leave the tin in the sun so it warms up and thins down a bit. It is cleaned off with paraffin. You can do it yourself and know it is done properly. Use the generel Tectyl to protect any bolt, nut and spray it into any crevice you can see. It has a great capillary action and draws itself between thin layers on the body. I normally use about 3 tins per vehicle of the general Tectyl (yellow-ish in colour).
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  14. #13
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    whatever you use i think it is crucial to point out that if applying anything, the surface should be clean and dry. trapping any moisture under any barrier will just aggravate the situation.

    Land Rovers never die, they simply become organ donors!

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    How do you know if your chassis has been galvanised. I am guessing mine is as she is immaculate underneath and the steel looks different, almost a matt black colour. Cant find a single spot of rust anywhere
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    if galvanised, it will be silver unless overpainted with black paint.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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  17. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdickerson View Post
    hey teejay
    yes you can get waxoyl here in SA. general hardware store will stock it. But i understand it to stop rust and reverse the process. A chemical reaction that stops the oxidation. I don't think it is what you need at this point. perhaps just use it on the areas that need to be treated. IMHO i would not treat the whole underside of the chasis. you might end up closing drain holes that you actually need for water to drain out. if you seal these holes and water enters elsewhere besides the underside of the vehicle, then these sealed holes will trap water in and cause rust from within. rather treat it as and when needed and rhino the wheel archs....
    just my 2c worth
    Just got back from a few hardware stores looking for Waxoyl - they just stare at me with a blank look (even when I spell it out)....doh.....will look for Tectyl next.

    C'mon guys - there must be people out there who have had their vehicles professionally coated - who did you use - are you happy? - or does no-one bother treating their vehicles? Which companies in CT specialise in this?
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  18. #17
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    the best i can come up with is Master panelbeaters in Montaque gardens.
    0215522588.

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  19. #18
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    They in Durban and use Tectyl as far as I know. Also give 4 year guarantee on brand new vehicles.





    The Rust Proofing Centre
    031 - 5646355



    Rust Proofing Chassis only - R895.00
    Rust Proofing complete vehicle - chassis & above chassis - R1850.00
    The entire chassis is high pressure cleaned with cold water
    We would need the vehicle for 4 hrs for chassis only & 8 hrs for chassis & above chassis.
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  20. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvandyk View Post
    They in Durban and use Tectyl as far as I know. Also give 4 year guarantee on brand new vehicles.
    The Rust Proofing Centre
    031 - 5646355

    Rust Proofing Chassis only - R895.00
    Rust Proofing complete vehicle - chassis & above chassis - R1850.00
    The entire chassis is high pressure cleaned with cold water
    We would need the vehicle for 4 hrs for chassis only & 8 hrs for chassis & above chassis.
    Do these guys have a branch in CT? - or can they recommend someone here? Thanks

    Thanks landyluvver - I'll check with them if they do something like this.
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  21. #20
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    our local valet place does the whole job for R1000 including complete underside high pressure clean and spray. they use a bitumen based material and claim the high pressure cleaner will remove any loose bitumen from previous applications.
    they don't use tectyl or waxoyl.
    try you local valet guys. they may do it.

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