Disco 2 Turbo advice please





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  1. #1
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    Default Disco 2 Turbo advice please

    My Disco 2 TD5 has started whistling at certain rpm, at pull off there is no noise and at full throttle or close to it also nothing, but at mild cruising there is a new whistling noise. It has low mileage, about 83k and has been properly serviced regularly. Is this something to worry about ? heading to Kruger at month end and don't want to ruin the family holiday with a blown turbo ( or my aching pocket)
    2nd point, at start up the dash lights do a little disco number and she sounds as if she won't start. Battery is a year old so don't think thats the problem. Could it be the alarm/immobiliser or something else (tracker unit) drawing off the battery.
    Any advice would be appreciated

  2. #2
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    Turbo's whistle, sometimes soft sometimes loud. It might be that there are some carbon buildup on the hot side that is now making noise at a certain rpm / load. If there is no rubbing sounds or exesive oil usage I would say the turbo is fine. You can alway pull the intake pipe from the turbo and grab it by the shaft and check for exesive side to side or up down play. There shouldn't be much.
    Q2 - Check that you altenator is charging properly, +-14V just after startup and 13.5V after some driving time. Might also have your battery's water level check. Even sealed batteries need some maintenance. Take it to Battery centre, they'll check it for free. Let them clean the terminals while they're at it, might be a bad contact.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Megaprop View Post
    My Disco 2 TD5 has started whistling at certain rpm, at pull off there is no noise and at full throttle or close to it also nothing, but at mild cruising there is a new whistling noise. It has low mileage, about 83k and has been properly serviced regularly. Is this something to worry about ?
    Have the manifold checked for leaks. This is a known Td5 problem.
    camelman
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    Agree with camelman, had similar whistle and was the manifold gasket

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    Yeah.... 99% the manifold bolts have broken off.... mine was replaced with bolts from Wurth about 90000 km's ago and no problem since...

    If it turns out to be a turbo issue, PM me... I have the importers phone no and they quoted me 5500 ex vat for a new turbo. They also supply the agents...

    The lights at startup sounds quite funny though... I haven't come across this at all... maybe take it to an independent and run the diagnostics...
    2001 Mitsubishi Pajero DID SWB
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    The 2nd problem sounds like your battery CCA rating is too low. I had a batt in my TD5 that was too small and it did that. Replaced with a 110Ah batt with 1000CCA and problem was solved. Also check the battery terminal clamps. Not a very clever design. I replaced them on my previous D2 with standard batt clamps.
    Deon Viljoen
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    Default Turbo noise

    Hi,

    I had a TD5 ES & had the same problem. The Turbo High Pressure pipe(special rubber pipe on the turbo) had been punctured by LR agent & you only need to replace it - also check connections are tight & secure. Commonly the whistle sound is only at higher revs (around 2-3000rpm). The vehicle might pull very weak too, esp long uphills.

    The lights going ape sounds as if moisture penetrated somewhere in the electrics. rather have it checked out by a LR agent.(maybe computer problem & they could reset it). Also invest in a Motorite or similar extended warrantee. Around R15000 for 40000kms or 2 years. Real piece of mind that. Covers most items. I dealt with Liz Bloem a while ago 0824565028 to organize this warrantee or talk to finance person at a LR dealer, they could do the same.

    Good luck & enjoy your trip.



    Quote Originally Posted by Megaprop View Post
    My Disco 2 TD5 has started whistling at certain rpm, at pull off there is no noise and at full throttle or close to it also nothing, but at mild cruising there is a new whistling noise. It has low mileage, about 83k and has been properly serviced regularly. Is this something to worry about ? heading to Kruger at month end and don't want to ruin the family holiday with a blown turbo ( or my aching pocket)
    2nd point, at start up the dash lights do a little disco number and she sounds as if she won't start. Battery is a year old so don't think thats the problem. Could it be the alarm/immobiliser or something else (tracker unit) drawing off the battery.
    Any advice would be appreciated

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Falagar View Post
    Yeah.... 99% the manifold bolts have broken off.... mine was replaced with bolts from Wurth about 90000 km's ago and no problem since...
    how can i know if this is the case - just by unscrewing them?
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    My TD5 Es has similar noises although hardly noticeable. At certains revs she whistles slightly. Just had a service (LR in CT) to replace water pump & oil. (Lucky i have a little black box fitted - very handly to have.) She pulls well - 223000kms & still goes strong.
    NEVER DRIVE FASTER THAN YOUR GUARDIAN ANGEL CAN FLY
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  10. #10
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    Guys, thanks for all the replies, really useful. 7000 km ago (4 months) landy mega Centre did the manifold skim and new gaskets and bolts etc so I doubt its that as they are very switched on. Will check that pipe, vehicle still pulls well ! Just had tracker out to check if their units battery was dead and if it was drawing from the vehicle but its not. They say there may be another system in the vehicle that we don't know about.

  11. #11
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    Read Boyscouts posting again - a battery that sounds healthy and turns the engine OK might still be the problem.
    Dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by Falagar View Post
    Yeah.... 99% the manifold bolts have broken off.... mine was replaced with bolts from Wurth about 90000 km's ago and no problem since...

    If it turns out to be a turbo issue, PM me... I have the importers phone no and they quoted me 5500 ex vat for a new turbo. They also supply the agents...

    The lights at startup sounds quite funny though... I haven't come across this at all... maybe take it to an independent and run the diagnostics...
    It's always the two most outer studs that breaks off.
    This usually happens when driven hard.
    Replace the studs with high tensile ones.
    There is a thread in this section regarding removing the broken studs.

    DO NOT USE EASY OUT'S TO REMOVE THE BROKEN STUDS.
    YOU WERE WARNED!!!

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by RudolfD2 View Post
    It's always the two most outer studs that breaks off.
    This usually happens when driven hard.
    Replace the studs with high tensile ones.
    There is a thread in this section regarding removing the broken studs.

    DO NOT USE EASY OUT'S TO REMOVE THE BROKEN STUDS.
    YOU WERE WARNED!!!
    Yes, out of experience I can say, DO NOT USE EASY OUT's!!!
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS d2 View Post
    how can i know if this is the case - just by unscrewing them?
    Hi LS... if you look at the manifold bolts, you can actually see that they have broken off... you just see the stub sitting there... I think in less extreme cases the bolts might still be fine but the manifold might have warped which means you'll have to get someone in the know to check it and have it skimmed if necessary.

    In my case it was also the outer bolts that broke off completely... btw I did not drive her hard.... I never go over 3000rpm and don't push the landy...

    Hope you come right...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scorpio Turbo View Post
    You can alway pull the intake pipe from the turbo and grab it by the shaft and check for exesive side to side or up down play. There shouldn't be much.
    there should be no noticeable play!
    play should be so small that it would be detected by instruments only.

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  16. #16
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    For your starting problem, take your batt to a batt center and have them charge and load test. If all is ok then I would certainly look at the tracker backup batt. If you have an amp meter then switch off vehicle, disconnect batt and with amp meter in series, couple batt. At first coupling, the amps can go high but must then come down to at least 0.02 or 0.03 amps, anything more than this and the problem lays with the vehicle. The tracker batt is normally coupled straight to the batt so it charges even when the vehicle is switched off, when the batt starts to pack up it draws extra amps causing the vehicle batt to go flat.

    You should then get someone to change the circuit to only be able to charge when vehicle is running.
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