SAS swop





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Thread: SAS swop

  1. #1
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    Default SAS swop

    This vehicle is the same as mine except for the V8 super charged engine. But i would like to know
    if anyone has done this type of mod on the Hardbody. I have seen it on a Raider and Ford.
    Naturally i would have preferred coil springs. Offcourse i realise its cheaper to buy the real thing in the end, but if
    you can do this yourself, its a nice rewarding project.
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    Last edited by OFFROAD ADDICT; 2010/02/16 at 07:17 PM.
    ORA
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    Ian

  2. #2
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    Default

    The end product, rock crawler
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    ORA
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    Ian

  3. #3
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    Default

    I would love to see a hardbody with SFA in action ! , Calmini have a kit but excludes the axle & diff . The cost of this project puts me off ...
    Clayton Miles
    Benoni
    D4 V8 HSE
    Navara 2.5 DCI 4x4 8)

  4. #4
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    Default

    Cost is under R15k if you have a 4x4 D22:
    - front Jeep D30 diff with steering components : between R3500 and R5000 depending on condition
    - leaf spring set : between R2000 and R3000 depending on where you are
    - scrapped/used front prop shaft from Jeep : less than R1000?
    - braided front extended brake hoses : R1000 from Cable Man or hydraulic shop
    - some engineering and welding : pitman arm conversion, draglink mods, leaf spring hanger cross-member and shackles : R2500
    - assorted spares (new shocks, bump stops) and fluids : R2500

    Can be done in phases.
    Phase 1: (prep phase)
    - have leaf spring hanger cross-member welded up to match chassis as well as diff
    - install leaf-spring shackles and hangers (shouldn't affect current IFS)
    - get pitman arm checked against Jeep steering bits: get a used pitman and mod accordingly
    - prep Jeep diff (grind off coil brackets, weld on leaf spring mounts, weld and check shock mounts)

    Phase 2: (2WD phase)
    - remove IFS (grind & cut)
    - install front leafs
    - install SFA and attach steering to pitman arm
    - install extended brake hoses and re-bleed brakes
    - install new shocks
    - test drive for steering and handling, have wheel alignment done
    - check articulation and weld in new bump-stops

    Phase 3: (4WD phase)
    - make up front prop-shaft using nissan and jeep parts: I suggest dual UJ
    - install front prop-shaft
    - test 4x4

    Instead of leafs, you can have coils and radius arms, but then I suggest you buy the front diff with radius arms, coils, shocks, etc.
    This conversion will require coil towers welded into the top of the wheel-arch, and radius arm brackets welded to the chassis, apart from that, very similar prep and execution to the plan above.

  5. #5
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    Default

    I agree, not impossible to do, just did it on the ranger
    However, re-look your costs - the old saying get prices for everything, then multiply by 3 is a better estimate - for starters you need to think off diff ratios (maybe you get lucky and get the same ratios, maybe not). then things like engineering work to cut bushes, brackets, etc.
    If I had to do it again I would without hesitation
    Christo Davids
    Land Cruiser 105 4500 EFI
    Hilux 2.8GD6 Extracab 4x4

  6. #6
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    Question

    Christo, where can we see your Ranger's pictures?
    How much lift did you eventually get?
    Have you taken it up to some speed yet? How does it feel?
    Live.
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    André Opperman


    "Boerbok" - 98 Jeep XJ 4lit auto
    "Gloria" - 04 Ranger D/C 4lit auto

  7. #7
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    Default

    I have a thread in the ford section
    http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...ad.php?t=55061
    At the moment the bakkie is at the panelbeaters, hoping to get it back before month end
    I have taken it to speed yes, up to 130km/h on the GPS and it handles beautifully
    total lift from stock (comparing it to another supercab we have at home) is about 250mm, which includes 50mm body lift, I'll post exact measurements once I get it back from the panelbeaters
    All in all done to the back suspesnsion: OME Leafs, extra blade, longer chackles and 60mm spacers between the axles and the leafs - shock mounts lifted as well and Land Cruiser 70 series extended shocks fitted
    front - land rover trailing arms, coild (land cruiser but 3" longer than the longest available coils) and same shocks as the rear
    Christo Davids
    Land Cruiser 105 4500 EFI
    Hilux 2.8GD6 Extracab 4x4

  8. #8
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    Default

    Christo, remember you rebuilt everything. You also went coils. That indeed will add MUCH more cost. Extra brackets, coils, shocks, extended shackles at the back, etc etc.
    Yes, I forgot to mention diff ratios. Mainly because I'm doing mine from 4x2, so I'll be buying a front and rear Jeep diff set in 3.73 (not interested in rock crawling, and my TD27 needs the lower revs). You'll have to indeed factor in a CW&P swop for the D30 front diff to 4.625 for the Nissan. So add R5k to my estimate.

  9. #9
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    Default

    And also: leaf spring hangers and shackles are mostly off-the-shelf items from the dealers and from the trailer spares suppliers: the only fabrication of brackets required would be for the leaf spring locators on the diff tubes. These can be 37 or 50mm thick-wall square tube off-cuts with semicircle cut-outs for the diff tube, and a hole for the leaf pin. Then the pitman arm issues.

    Offroad Addicts' pix show a spring over axle (SOA) conversion: this adds 100mm of height you might not want (not everybody wants it). Then things like extended length shocks and CAMIL - style shock towers are required. Also you have to match the rear height to the front, with longer shackles etc etc.
    If you go Spring Under Axle (SUA), these issues are less. The bakkie sits only slightly higher than an IFS 4x4.

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