Nissan D21 transfer box mods





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  1. #1
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    Default Nissan D21 transfer box mods

    Has anybody modified the main output shaft of the D21 transfer box for a flange as opposed to a slip joint?

    (a companion flange would be a permanent or semi-permanent fitting, like on the front output drive shaft)

    Has anybody got a D21 gearbox / xfer box combo lying around in their garage? I need to know if there is a threaded hole going into the end of the main output shaft from the xfer box. This would allow a companion flange to be bolted to the end of the shaft.
    Why do I want to this? I'd feel better if I could at least drop the rear prop-shaft and use the front diff to get home. With a slip joint all the transfer box oil would run out, or at least get contaminated by dust.
    (Yes, I know the standard Nissan R180A front diff probably won't be able to haul the vehicle: don't worry, I have a cunning plan, Baldrick).

    Lastly: is the same transfer box used for the TD27, KA24/Z24 and the VG30 gearboxes? (TX10A)?

    I'll post this under Classifieds, but I'm looking for a TD27 5-speed gearbox and xfer box combo, if anybody has one in good nick.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by jelo View Post
    Why do I want to this? I'd feel better if I could at least drop the rear prop-shaft and use the front diff to get home. With a slip joint all the transfer box oil would run out, or at least get contaminated by dust.
    In a case like this, I would just split the rear shaft at the centre bearing. Short end stay in the box, supported by the bearing.
    Kobus

    Nissan

  3. #3
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    Unless you're running a solid rear prop, Kobus......

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jelo View Post
    .... solid rear prop......
    Jip, it will not work then.

    Any benefits in solid prop conversion Jakes?
    Kobus

    Nissan

  5. #5
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    No crappy centre bearing. Yes, a little more load on the transfer box rear bearing and the pinion bearing, but not that much. It's a standard Nissan prop-shaft option anyway.

  6. #6
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    Hi Jelo,
    I have rebuilt my X10A transfer box with crawler gears and know it quite well. The problem is that if you put a flange on you cannot fit the endcover of the box. The only solution would be to get a flange with a spline in the existing splines and have a bolt that once you tighten it, it would expand, like a slip/wedge inside the existing spine output shaft to wedge it in position and is removeable when you have to open the transfere case. The front diff is quite strong to pull the vehicle. I once lost my rear propshaft and removed it. Fitted a plastic bag over the exit end of the transfere case and held in position with elastic bands. Selected 4 wheel high and drove home without any problems. The only problem was that I found is be light on the accellerator. The front wheel spin for nothing if you accellerate too fast!
    Good luck
    Toyota Hilux D4D SR5
    ZS6YR/VK4JHE

  7. #7
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    Prop probably still shorter than the Safari bakkie shaft that is also solid and sits at bigger angel in the case of Fear Factory for instance.
    David/Hillbilly - 1997 SFA Nissan Sani 2,7 TD - 5" lift on 33" tires - Dual Transfer with 4.1 gears

    http://www.youtube.com/user/davidabcab



  8. #8
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    Hi Jengel, ja I was thinking of welding a flange to a slip joint end cut off a prop-shaft, and I would just need some way to stop this sliding off if I remove the propshaft. That's why I'm wondering about whether the output shaft has a tapped hole. I suppose I could get an engineering shop to drill & tap, but I'm scared this will compromise the shaft strength. Oh well, will have to do more investigation.

  9. #9
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    What about leaving all as is and when you have to remove the propshaft you fit the shortened slip joint to the transfere case output shaft to eliminate any oil spillage. You can fit some large hose clamps over the bellow with a stopper bar to prevent the slipjoint from moving out too far. To have a single solid propshaft you have to remove the support beam of the center bearing and cause a weakening of the chassis as it is a structural part of the chassis.
    Toyota Hilux D4D SR5
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  10. #10
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    Nope, gotta argue with you there. The centre bearing brackets are thin pressed steel, not structural, and simply bolt off.

    In fact Nissan produced the Hardbody with a single piece propshaft, spare code 2S80B.
    If you are worried about this carrier bracket, it would be easy enough to fabricate a mild steel cross-brace.

  11. #11
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    Yes I agree, the center bearing bracket is a large U-clamp but the beam is a heavy duty between the ladder frame. For a solid drive shaft on my D22 you have to either drop this bracket by about 50mm to allow articulation of the rear axle and clearance for the drive shaft.
    Toyota Hilux D4D SR5
    ZS6YR/VK4JHE

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