homemade recovery point - Page 7





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  1. #121
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    Owen, I'm very interested in these bumpers? Would love to hear more, as I might also be in the market, although current economics may sadly dictate that I rather get a set-up made like your current arrangement!

  2. #122
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    Default Trial

    I decided last year to make myself 2 recovery points for the back as there isn't any. These are preliminary picks as I have to spray it a coat of black and weld on the sides to prevent lateral movent.

    1. Source 2 pieces of 70mmx12mm flat bar(R30)


    2. 6no high tensile 12mm nuts, bolts and lock washers(R4

    3. Got a friend to drill the 12mm holes for the bolts as well as a 24mm hole for the shackle pin.(2L coke )








    Once I've twisted my brother inlaw's arm to weld the sides to complete the project I will post updated pics.

    Life's a journey, enjoy the ride & shift expectations.
    1999 Nissan Hardbody (Sold)

  3. #123
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    Oh yes I am also considering adding 2 more 12mm bolts above the shacke in addition to the welding and also welding the bumper bracket to the chassis

    Life's a journey, enjoy the ride & shift expectations.
    1999 Nissan Hardbody (Sold)

  4. #124
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    "welding the bumper bracket to the chassis"

    Uho...

  5. #125
    4ePajero Guest

    Default

    As it is at the moment, I would be worried.
    How about putting a brace from near the shackle to as far forward on the chassis rail as possible?

    Have you had a stress analysis done on the design?

    To me it looks as if those two 12mm botls won't stand up to the stresses involved in a snatch,

    ... but I could be wrong.
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  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4ePajero View Post
    As it is at the moment, I would be worried.
    How about putting a brace from near the shackle to as far forward on the chassis rail as possible?

    Have you had a stress analysis done on the design?

    To me it looks as if those two 12mm botls won't stand up to the stresses involved in a snatch,

    ... but I could be wrong.
    I agree fully that just two bolts is insufficient just thought the welding would be added protection.

    I aslo considered 2 additional bolts just above the shackle,12mm, but a have to move a brace behind the bumber bracket first. I must mention that this is just a prototype for now wont think of using it as is.

    Life's a journey, enjoy the ride & shift expectations.
    1999 Nissan Hardbody (Sold)

  7. #127
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    Default Recovery point

    Quote Originally Posted by 4ePajero View Post
    As it is at the moment, I would be worried.
    How about putting a brace from near the shackle to as far forward on the chassis rail as possible?

    Have you had a stress analysis done on the design?

    To me it looks as if those two 12mm botls won't stand up to the stresses involved in a snatch,

    ... but I could be wrong.
    I agree fully that just two bolts is insufficient just thought the welding would be added protection.

    I aslo considered 2 additional bolts just above the shackle,12mm, but a have to move a brace behind the bumber bracket first.


    I must mention that this is just a prototype for now wont think of using it as is.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

    Life's a journey, enjoy the ride & shift expectations.
    1999 Nissan Hardbody (Sold)

  8. #128
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    hat vandag vir n halfuur onder my lorrie gele en kyk en kyk en kyk en toe besluit dit gan nie maklik wees nie... maar ek gan nog steeds n paar planne maak.
    "Blue Thunder"
    Gert Ferreira
    2004 Hardbody 3.3 V6 D/C 4x4 SEL

  9. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeZA View Post
    hat vandag vir n halfuur onder my lorrie gele en kyk en kyk en kyk en toe besluit dit gan nie maklik wees nie... maar ek gan nog steeds n paar planne maak.
    n' Boer maak 'n plan - laat maar weet wat die plan is...

  10. #130
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    Wink

    Gert, just go to an exhaust fittment centre and ask if they could mig weld a brace in, similar to what
    Gerhard 4E PAJERO suggested. That would be the easiest salution.
    The idea is if you are pulled the bracket wont bend or break or come off, heavens forbid hey !


    ORA
    -------------------------
    Ian

  11. #131
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    Default Advice Please

    Hi Guys

    I bought a Nissan Hardbody about a month back and am just working on getting some recovery points sorted, any advise on the following would be appreciated.

    My Bakkie had two points under the front (I plan on using a bridal to distribute the load) there was a 5mm piece of steel which is welded to the chassis (This looks pretty secure) there was also backing plate next to it that is 6mm thick secured to the chassis by a 11mm bolt. (However this is cut at a very strange angle) so I am going to take the backing plate off and ream the whole to 20mm (shackle width) and cut the sharp edge off. And use both these points when recoving, boths points are the same on both sides.

    do you think these two points will be adequate? any suggestions most welcome.


    Thanks
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  12. #132
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    Default Home made recovery point

    Quote Originally Posted by Ebot View Post
    Hi
    Will a 50x6 flat bar with a 10mm hole in be strong enough? It will be bolted on to the factory holes in the chassis of my pajero?
    Any Advice will help me a lot as I want to make them now for tomorrow.
    Edit: would horizontal / vertical hole matter?
    Regards
    A lot of interesting posts.

    For my money,
    Mandatory.
    A recovery point should be "rated" (in other words tested and approved up to a workload limit).
    Should be attached to the chassis of a vehicle.
    Should be attached with "rated" high tensile bolts.
    Optional.
    Should be a open hook as opposed to a closed loop requiring the use of a shackle.
    Prevent the use of a shackle rated or not, as a shackle ads weight to the projectile.The common 3 1/4T shackles found in recovery kits are rated far too low for rope or strap recoveries.

    Enjoy the off-road
    "HOW YOU DO ANYTHING, IS HOW YOU DO EVERYTHING"

  13. #133
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    Default

    Herewith my vehicles recovery point.

    300mm x 100mm x 25mm with a 25mm hole, bolted directly to the chassis of the vehicle with high tensile bolts.

    I know this is a bit overkill but rather be safe than sorry.

    http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...1&d=1324359860
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Big Daddy

  14. #134
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    Default Recovery points

    Hi Big Daddy
    What are you going to fit through the wholes? straps, ropes or shackles?
    Are these towing points or recovery points used for kinetic recoveries?
    For my money, nothing other than:
    a "RATED" recovery hook
    Fitted to the chassis
    With high tensile bolts
    Torqued to specs
    By an approved fitment centre.
    This moves the responsibility from myself to a qualified registered person or organisation should anything go wrong, not that Im ignorant to what they do either. I am not paying any attention to any wiseguy on the forum approving my handmade killing machine either. Is he going to take responsibility in court should anything go wrong.
    Big Daddy this might sound harsh but please don't use your recovery point for a kinetic recovery.
    Watch this and think again KINETIC RECOVERY GONE WRONG
    The average kinetic strap/ rope is rated 8000kg in other words with a safety rating of 4 32 000kg is your recovery point up to that?
    Have a great Christmas and a 4x4 New Year
    Tinus4x4
    "HOW YOU DO ANYTHING, IS HOW YOU DO EVERYTHING"

  15. #135
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tinus4x4 View Post
    Hi Big Daddy
    What are you going to fit through the wholes? straps, ropes or shackles?
    Are these towing points or recovery points used for kinetic recoveries?
    For my money, nothing other than:
    a "RATED" recovery hook
    Fitted to the chassis
    With high tensile bolts
    Torqued to specs
    By an approved fitment centre.
    This moves the responsibility from myself to a qualified registered person or organisation should anything go wrong, not that Im ignorant to what they do either. I am not paying any attention to any wiseguy on the forum approving my handmade killing machine either. Is he going to take responsibility in court should anything go wrong.
    Big Daddy this might sound harsh but please don't use your recovery point for a kinetic recovery.
    Watch this and think again KINETIC RECOVERY GONE WRONG
    The average kinetic strap/ rope is rated 8000kg in other words with a safety rating of 4 32 000kg is your recovery point up to that?
    Have a great Christmas and a 4x4 New Year
    Tinus4x4
    About time you got more involved on the forum
    You're like 'a gob on a stick' in real life,I know you're not the shy type
    Please-we need your input/advice......

    Now just buy a Landie to be a real 4x4 oke
    A legend in his own mind

  16. #136
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    Default Recovery points

    Haai Watch that tongue.

    The forum is your job, you've got the looks and temperament, oh and the Landy.
    How is she keeping?

    This is going to become an interesting topic, so hang in there!

    Cheers.
    "HOW YOU DO ANYTHING, IS HOW YOU DO EVERYTHING"

  17. #137
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    hey guys busy making a recover point , but b4 i do all the final stuff i thought id get some feed back ....its 10mm thick , 60mm wide ... will be attached with 2 8.8 16mm bolts wil have a recovery point on the left and right and will be brideled to middle , see attached pics ... also i see you get 8.8 bolts and 12.9 black alen key type bolts witch will be better in shear ... , i did read the allen key one does not like lock washers is this correct ?... also my bash bar is in the way slightly as u can see with the shackle ... can u join two shackles so i have some movement ? its a 4.3/4
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    Kb300 Dtec 4x4 ...let the mods begin
    2003 Kb300Tdi d/c lx 4x4 - sold
    GP0274 batmandiver




  18. #138
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    Hi batman driver

    Simple question.
    What is the rating on the shackle used?
    If you are going to apply kinetics, what is the rating of your kinetic strap or rope?
    Which is your weakest link?

    The average kinetic rope or strap has a work load rating of 8000kg
    An equivalent shackle would be a massive 20mm dia with an approximate weight of about 5 kg. Clearly not the 4 3/4 T on your picture.

    Rather consider the rated hook type recovery points that are purposely built for recovery applications.

    Do not try and built your own as kinetic forces in a snatch recovery are huge.

    A kinetic rope/strap with a WLL of 8000kg has a safety factor of 4/5 depending on country of origin. That means it will break under 32/40 tonnes.

    And Ive seen them break

    Is your "recovery" bracket up to standard?

    I would really recommended you consider a formal recovery training program with an accredited provider whom takes responsibility for what is trained, that is not sponsored by any manufacturer nor a fitment centre unless accredited.

    You are welcome to contact me direct for more information as your safety and those of your family is important to us.

    Regards
    Tinus
    "HOW YOU DO ANYTHING, IS HOW YOU DO EVERYTHING"

  19. #139
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    Default

    I realise that the original post by Sweetlips is a bit long in the tooth and no offence to you, Sweetlips but those recovery points are downright dangerous and in my opponion should not be used. If you look at the leverage that the pull will have on the front bolt it will sheer at a blink of an eye. Snatching will definitely result in the front bolt sheering even if it's an 8'8 or higher 12mm, this in turn will result in a sheer of the rear bolt and a catastrophic failure. The design is totally flawed as the recovery hook itself is adding to the pull force by it's design and I will not put my vehicle behind yours under any circumstances. Then to make matters worse, by welding onto the chassis you are firstly breaking the law and the vehicle can be scrapped, secondally you are welding a mild steel "hook" onto a hardened chassis, therefore the chances of cracking around the weld are exceptionally high, hence the roadworthy issues and in fact you are going to weaken the entire recovery area on the chassis, your hook can be made of 16mm mild steel, if the mounting point is weak the whole lot is a potential death trap. The above is my opponion only but really, I do have many years of experience in 4x4 and I grew up in an engineering shop, so I have a pretty good idea about strengths of material.
    As Tinus said, maybe get a professional to do the job or at least inspect it prior to usage. There have been many posts on recovery points in the past so go back and have a look see. During our driver training the one thing I drum into peoples heads until they want to lynch me is the safety of all concerned. If your hook shears and kills someone you will probably be charged with manslaughter at the very least, and you were "the good samaratan" in the first place, innocently trying to help somebody out the poo, sad but true.
    Now go back and take a good look, think to yourself ....... if I hang SIX Landcruisers from my recovery point will I stand under the hanging cars and live to tell the story, if your answer is a firm YES then it's hopefully safe, if your answer was NO WAY, then your recovery point is a mess up. (6x 2ton = 12ton which is the rating of a good snatch rope) .... and they break !!

  20. #140
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    If I had to stand under 6 Landcruizers(sic) it would be the falling rust I'de be worried about,plus you'de never get them to hang nicely in a line due to their chassis being skew
    A legend in his own mind

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