KB300 suspension lift?





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  1. #1
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    Default KB300 suspension lift?

    Hi all,

    I have just done my first 4x4 at Boegoeberg. What an experience; got me hooked.

    Need an suspension lift and after scanning the threads, I copied the follwing prior feedback;


    "You are not adding tention to your torsion bars by adjusting it higher, just adjusting it's position. The resident tention in the tortion bars can only be changed by changing the bars to a stiffer type. Personal experience is that lifting the nose with the tortion bars, in my case 45mm, had absolutely no effect on the ride quality.

    It is similar to lenghtening your shackle at the back, it doesn't increase the tention, just resetting the position.

    Generally you get half the amount of lift for the amount you extend the shackle with. E.g. if you're going the extend the shackle by 2" (50mm), you'll get a 1" lift. So if you want a 2" lift from an extended shackle alone it would need to be 4" longer than your existing one.

    Safe limits with this type of lift is 3".
    Do the ball joint flip at the front and turn up the torsion bars.
    Remember the wheel alignment!

    The limiting factor on doing a suspensionlift on a typical torsion bar setup is the limited down wards travel of the torsion bar after you jacked it up after fitting longer shackels at the rear. A ball joint flip - upper control arm - ball joint is normaly on the upper side of the control arm.... by moving it to the underside of control arm you gain a little downwards movement and less strain on your shocks, helps with the wheel alignment as well.

    Your typical se-up will therefore be the following - this would be a typical Isuzu scenario:

    2" Calmini Shackels - 2" longer than standard shackles
    Adjusted torsion bar to get 4x4 level and not "nose down" stance
    Ball joint flip.
    Uprated shocks

    If you go higher to a 3" lift, you need longer upper control arms and break hoses.



    I have a friend that recommended fitting Camil shocks in front, 2" longer shackels, adjust the torsion bar, do a ball joint flip. He did not recommend changing from 15" to 16" tyres ( 16" more expensive, not readily avalable")



    Long range travelling with my bakkie has always been a joy, for reasons of the cumfortable ride . Will this lift change any of that cumfort?



    I do a lot of caravaning; have a Gypsey 4B. What effect will this lift on my towing stability?









  2. #2
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    Default

    fit a 3" Calmini suspension lift kit - works great
    I don't see any problem with towing, comfort or stability

    Speak to Sakkie, he will give great advice on the Isuzu
    Christo Davids
    Land Cruiser 105 4500 EFI
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  3. #3
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    Hi,

    I'm running my 2005 KB300 DMAX on 3" custom made shackles in the rear with a balljoint flip upfront and the torsions turned up slightly. I've been running this for the last almost 60 000km without any hassles whatsoever. I have also added an extra blade in the rear spring packs (for better load bearing) and my ride is still juts as comfy as it always was.

    I have more recently gone from the std 245/70R16 tyres to 265/70R16 and am as happy as the proverbial "pig in palestine" with the added clearance on the diff...

    Hope this helps!

    G0d Bless

    Trev

    PS - I'm still running on OE shocks but I have it on good authority that about the best setup for these trucks is Rancho RS9000 9-way adjustable shocks upfront and CAMIL in the rear...
    2014 Land Cruiser 76 SW with extras
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Christo Davids View Post
    fit a 3" Calmini suspension lift kit - works great
    I don't see any problem with towing, comfort or stability

    Speak to Sakkie, he will give great advice on the Isuzu

    Hi Christo,
    Much appreciated.

    Wieger

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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor_Mathews View Post
    Hi,

    I'm running my 2005 KB300 DMAX on 3" custom made shackles in the rear with a balljoint flip upfront and the torsions turned up slightly. I've been running this for the last almost 60 000km without any hassles whatsoever. I have also added an extra blade in the rear spring packs (for better load bearing) and my ride is still juts as comfy as it always was.

    I have more recently gone from the std 245/70R16 tyres to 265/70R16 and am as happy as the proverbial "pig in palestine" with the added clearance on the diff...

    Hope this helps!

    G0d Bless

    Trev

    PS - I'm still running on OE shocks but I have it on good authority that about the best setup for these trucks is Rancho RS9000 9-way adjustable shocks upfront and CAMIL in the rear...
    Hi Trev,

    GOD Bless you too.
    This is a great forum, very helpfull.
    Do you have an estimate of how much the lift ( changes ) cost you?
    Your SAC ( supossedly plug an play conversion). I get a lot of mixed feedback on this. Mostly not recommended as it has a negative influence on the long run. Any comments?

    Wieger
    Last edited by Justme; 2009/09/18 at 10:36 PM.

  6. #6
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    Hi You,

    Our resident Isuzu specialist in Cape Town is Mario aka Weimaraner on the isuzuoffroad.co.za website. He will be able to assist you with the lift.

    Wrt SAC chips, I know of only one person that had one fitted and was unhappy with the result. In general, myself included, people love their Suzi's even more after having it chipped.
    My name is Rainier and I drive a Frotuna.

    Why are you always in such a bad mood? Experience...







  7. #7
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    Question The way to go?

    Hi All,

    Summerized the following appears the way to go;

    Do first the front suspension lift to determine maximum possible overall lift i.e.
    Fit shocks, recommended Camil ( also giving some lift )
    Adjust torsion bar
    flip ball joints

    Then do rear suspension lift to level i.e
    2 - 3" shackles
    adjusted length shocks?

    Then change tyres to get an addisional 1" clearance between diff's and ground. (optional)

    Wheel alignment at appropriate stage (b4 or after tyres )

    Other than for the make of shocks does this seem OK?

    I have been quoted R3500 for all of this, excluded the cost of the tyres/rims and the 2 front shocks (estimated @ R1200 each ). Reasonable?
    Last edited by Justme; 2009/09/20 at 04:27 PM.

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    naahnaah, don't stuff around.
    Go to Mario(weimeraner), and get the best experienced advice possible.
    I ahve done the shackles, Camils and what have you.
    Just have a look at what you can achieve and your doubts will be subsided.

    If needs be, send me a PM and will send you a few pics of my Suz with all of your best drams applied.
    Jacques
    Never trust a Chinchilla to hold your balloon.

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    I do a lot of caravaning; have a Gypsey 4B. What effect will this lift on my towing stability?
    Mine is a 2007 KB300 D-Max. I have the Calmini 3" shackles in the rear with coil-over Camils, Calmini Control Arms, Rancho's in the front, with manual hubs. I tow a Sprite Solar - much the same weight as your Gypsey. Since I had the lift done on the Isuzu, the only negative thing I can report is when traveling on a bumpy road: When towing, the extended travel in the back makes for an unpleasant oscillation when going through a dip in the road - much more than with the standard (less travel) suspension . Oo and don't forget - you will have to fit a serious drop plate.

    If you do decide to lift the vehicle all the way (3"), fit manual hubs in the front, otherwise you will drastically shorten the life of the CV boots and yes, speak to Mario for fitment.
    Last edited by WeskusKlong; 2009/09/21 at 11:23 AM.

    Isuzu KB300 4x4 D/C
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    Thanx guys...will do ( speak to Mario )

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    Lifting the bakkie has another implication - with a full 3" lift you will find some propshaft shudder at pull away, as the universal (knuckle) is now running at a greater angle than what it was designed for. This can be addressed in different ways. One is to modify the center bearing - this is done by shortening the center bearing's bracket, thus sharing the greater angle between the two propshaft halves. I don't like this modification as it now puts the prop shaft from the gearbox at a (slight) angle - where it is dead straight standard. I took mine to Colin @ Propshaft Engineering in Bellville to fit a double knuckle in place of the standard one instead. He also replaced the propshaft to the diff with a slightly longer one, as lifting the vehicle increases the distance between the diff and the knuckle. (The Toyota has a better design here - the Toy propshaft is extend able :-(.) The double knuckle mod is obviously the more expensive option but IMHO the better one. You can read more about my modification here.
    Last edited by WeskusKlong; 2009/10/22 at 03:52 PM.

    Isuzu KB300 4x4 D/C
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    Quote Originally Posted by WeskusKlong View Post
    Lifting the bakkie has another implication - with a full 3" lift you will find some propshaft shudder at pull away, as the universal (knuckle) is now running at a greater angle than what it was designed for. This can be addressed in different ways. One is to modify the center bearing - this is done by shortening the center bearing's bracket, thus sharing the greater angle between the two propshaft halves. I don't like this modification as it now puts the prop shaft from the gearbox at a (slight) angle - where it is dead straight standard. I took mine to Colin @ Propshaft Engineering in Bellville to fit a double knuckle in place of the standard one instead. He also replaced the propshaft to the diff with a slightly longer one, as lifting the vehicle increases the distance between the diff and the knuckle. (The Toyota has a better design here - the Toy propshaft is expendable :-(.) The double knuckle mod is obviously the more expensive option but IMHO the better one. You can read more about my modification here.
    Hi all,

    Is there a difference between a body lift and a suspension lift? What is all of the above. ( this difference shown out to me by Duneoffroad)

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    Quote Originally Posted by WeskusKlong View Post
    Lifting the bakkie has another implication - with a full 3" lift you will find some propshaft shudder at pull away, as the universal (knuckle) is now running at a greater angle than what it was designed for. This can be addressed in different ways. One is to modify the center bearing - this is done by shortening the center bearing's bracket, thus sharing the greater angle between the two propshaft halves. I don't like this modification as it now puts the prop shaft from the gearbox at a (slight) angle - where it is dead straight standard. I took mine to Colin @ Propshaft Engineering in Bellville to fit a double knuckle in place of the standard one instead. He also replaced the propshaft to the diff with a slightly longer one, as lifting the vehicle increases the distance between the diff and the knuckle. (The Toyota has a better design here - the Toy propshaft is expendable :-(.) The double knuckle mod is obviously the more expensive option but IMHO the better one. You can read more about my modification here.
    By thy way, how much did this conversion costs i.e to allign propshaft? One thing I must say; my wife does'nt appreciiate all the quotes I'm getting...bummer!!

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    Body Lift = Increasing the distance between the chassis and the body, i.e. longer chassis mounting rubbers and bolts etc.

    Suspension Lift = Increasing the distance between the ground and the chassis, i.e. longer suspension shackles in the back, adjusting the torsion bars in the front etc. Does not increase the distance between the ground and the diff's, this can only be done by fitting "taller" tires.
    Last edited by Egelwolf; 2009/09/22 at 04:43 PM.
    Gerhard

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    Quote Originally Posted by Egelwolf View Post
    Body Lift = Increasing the distance between the chassis and the body, i.e. longer chassis mounting rubbers and blots etc.

    Suspension Lift = Increasing the distance between the ground and the chassis, i.e. longer suspension shackles in the back, adjusting the torsion bars in the front etc. Does not increase the distance between the ground and the diff's, this can only be done by fitting "taller" tires.
    Thanks Gerhard, thought as much.

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    Hi Wieger,

    I may be a little bit late, (just registered) but I think I can help with shackles and front suspension lift which wil not cost you an arm and a leg.

    I am running longer shackles with an extra blade at the back, tortions turned up in front with Ironman shocks all round on my 2004 300TDI old shape. The lift is about 45mm, the ride is pleasant, slightly firm which makes it ideal for 4x4.

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    Just another 2c worth from my side...

    I have 3" shackles in the rear & extra blade, ball-joint flip and torsions turned up infront...

    1. I have zero shudder at pull-away
    2. no issues with CV's or the boots

    My cabby has been with this setup now for almost 70 000km with no hassles whatsoever...

    God bless

    Trev

    PS - latest addition is 265/70R16 tyres and loving it.
    2014 Land Cruiser 76 SW with extras
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    Hi Trevor,

    I think we have to clarify something. You reacted on my post stating the need for manual hubs, propshaft mods when lifting the truck. Have a look at my 300's front CV boots:



    Do you really think that those boots will last as long as with the original setup - ie a virtually straight boot from the gearbox? It is obvious that they will wear much quicker in this config - hence the manual hub mod. Also I'm referring to a full 3" lift at the front - with the Calmini Control arms, not just cranking up the torsions, with a ball joint flip:



    Same goes with the universal mod. I doubt we have the same amount of lift. The fact that you cannot feel propshaft shudder on pull away tells me so. The moment I pulled away from Dune after the mod I felt the vibration. Slight but it was there. 2 weeks later it did not only vibrate - there was a loud accompanying squeak every time I pulled away. After the double knuckle and propshaft mod it is as smooth as ever.

    I think we need to have some perspective here. If you run a R300K - R400K 4x4 and expect to use it for what it was designed for , you should not be cutting corners when it comes to modifications. A perceived enhancement can easily become a restriction - biting you when you least expect it. The manual hub mod was less that 2 K. The double knuckle + propshaft lengthening was less that 3 K . So in the bigger picture its really low cost and certainly worth it. My 2c worth .
    Last edited by WeskusKlong; 2009/10/28 at 11:07 AM.

    Isuzu KB300 4x4 D/C
    KTM 1050 Adventure
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    To get rid of the propshaft shudder without spending a fortune, fit a 6mm spacer to the gearbox mount. This raises the back of the gearbox just enough to straighten the propshaft, and reduce the wear on your centre bearing significantly. The other way is to cut the legs off the centre bearing mount, shorten them, and weld them back on.

    For the best results, do both.
    Sakkie Coetzee

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  20. #20
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    Or get a D-Teq that doesn't have a centre bearing!
    -

    Fortuner 2.8 GD-6 4x4 Auto
    (Tough Dog Suspension / Frontrunner Roofrack and some more goodies...)

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