Wading in a Defender - Lessons Learned

[Defenderman]

Hi there

Below is some good advice on wading in a Defender 90:

VEHICLE PREPARATION:
1. Check your breather pipes from your front axle, gearbox and transfer box. These breather pipes should be secured by zip ties as high as possible in the engine compartment (sometimes these can fall to lower levels without one knowing).
2. Extend your rear differential breather pipe into the engine compartment and also secure it as high as possible (the factory fits the breather pipe at chassis level just above the rear axle which is asking for trouble).
3. Seal the holes in the battery compartment under the passenger seat temporarily with duct tape from the outside, under the car - just make sure you remove the duct tape after the wade to prevent hydrogen build up in the battery compartment, which will present an explosion hazard.
5. Grease or spray (Q20) all electrical plugs, fuses, electrical connections etc. to assist in preventing ingestion of water into electrical components.
6. Make sure that there is NO play on your wheel bearings (or other bearings) or you will get water into them, and soon after they will need to be replaced.
7. Obviously... if you intend wading through water deeper than 550mm, then fit a snorkel to prevent water ingestion into the engine (potentially the ultimate disaster and unnecessary expense). If your snorkel is more than 5 years old, then check the integrity of the sealing between the snorkel and the vehicle bodywork. Reseal with CAR silicon if required.
8. Let your vehicle's mechanical components cool down before undertaking the wade (have a picnic lunch and relax - warm components will cool quickly when submersed and will suck water inside, if they are already cool then the likely hood of ingesting water into mechanical components is reduced).
9. Make sure the doors, windows, sunroofs, vents etc are closed properly before embarking on your wade, and turn on your fan to maximum to create a positive pressure within the cab (Switch the power-sapping aircon off for the wade).
10. Temporarily waterproof your battery - water can enter the battery's distilled water compartments through the multiple filler caps’ breathers if it is submersed for a long period of time.
11. Baggage - MAKE SURE that clothes, cameras, binoculars, radios, phones, important documents and money etc. are stowed as high in the cab as possible (or in another vehicle altogether). You do not want to find yourself stuck mid wade, vehicle filling with water, scrambling to get your valuables higher than the water level. (NB: Remember that safe’s are not waterproof and are usually installed at low level in the vehicle – this will fill with water and wet all documents & valuables in there and possibly damage the lock).
12. Connect a shackle and snatch strap to your rear recovery point and wrap the strap around the spare wheel in case you stop mid wade and require an urgent and immediate recovery.
13. Know where your electronics are harboured in your Defender. I noticed in the new Pumas, that all the electronics is secured in a compartment below the driver’s seat! This in my opinion seriously reduces any maximum wading depth that should be attempted by a driver. Once you dunk those circuit boards into muddy water, you’re in for a world of despair, misery and hurt.
14. Make sure that you have ALL the correct spare oils in your vehicle so that if water ingestion contaminates any of the oils, you can flush it out and replace it immediately (2 to 3 times). It would be inadvisable to attempt long and deep wades if you do not sufficient quantities of spare oils.


WADE ANTICIPATION & STRATEGY
1. Have a good idea of what the water depth is throughout the entire length of the wade, and how far the maximum depth is maintained (a little difficult to establish in the crocodile infested waters of the Kwai River in Botswana).
2. Check the exit on the other side of the river - is it a steep slippery slope beyond the wade? If so, then the chances of you getting out on the other side are significantly reduced and you should seriously consider another crossing point.
3. MAKE sure that when attempting a wade that you get through first time! Don't get bogged down. For me, the biggest risk during a wade is stopping at some point in a deep section, through loss of traction. If you think you’re going to get stuck in the middle, take your wife’s advice and avoid the wade. An irresponsible wade attempt can leave you stranded and unceremoniously end your holiday.
4. A big problem with getting stuck mid wade, is that every part of your vehicle will undergo swift cooling, causing a suction pressure in almost every mechanical component including the engine, gearboxes, axles, bearings, fuel tank, electrical plugs, power steering system, etc. It also gives the water time to seep into the cab, flooding things like your battery compartment, hand brake, fan blower motor, fuse arrangement in front of the gear lever. These things do not react too well to water.
5. Remember that if you wade deeper than 1.5 metres and get stuck, it is almost a certainty that the cab will fill up above the steering wheel submersing your speedometer, ECU unit, radio and any other electrical equipment that is at steering wheel level. You’re taking a big chance wading through a river of this depth, so MAKE SURE you get through on your first attempt.
6. Getting stuck mid-wade also presents a nasty situation in that if you are in the middle of the Kwai river, you would not really want to swim to either side of the river and you can find yourself stranded there… on your roof rack. You are putting your life at risk by swimming around the vehicle, connecting snatch straps and shackles under water and then swimming to a recovery vehicle.
7. Keep your engine running as long as you are 100% sure that your air intake is above water level. Stopping the engine, could lead to water being sucked back down your exhaust pipe and into the engine – expensive and not advisable.
8. As your vehicle fills with water, so its force on the bottom of the river will be increased slightly, thus potentially giving you more traction (but your vehicle is also heavier to get going). It may be worth trying to drive out of the river once your vehicle is full of water.
9. Under no circumstances attempt to switch on your ARB diff locker if the bonnet is completely submerged, as water will be sucked directly into the compressor. The diff lock should be off for the wade and remain off no matter how eager you are to switch it on. The compressor will “top-up” the pressure in the rear locker from time to time, and if the compressor happens to be submersed at that moment, it will ingest water into the compressor mechanism.
10. Once your vehicle has been recovered, turn off the ignition, open the doors and other compartments to allow ALL the water to drain out. If the wiring and electronics are wet let them dry out – for a day or two if necessary.
11. Check if the air filter is wet. If wet, replace immediately and allow for inlet piping to dry. Regrease your universal joints etc.
12. Check all your oils. If there is cloudy or cappuccino look to the oil then water has been ingested into that specific component. Replace the oil immediately or as soon as possible.

Remember the wise saying: “If you want to play in the water, then buy a boat!”

Let me know if there are any items above that you would like to comment on, or if you have any further advice for adventurous Defender owners out there.

[OwenD]

"9. Make sure the doors, windows, sunroofs, vents etc are closed properly before embarking on your wade, and turn on your fan to maximum to create a positive pressure within the cab (Switch the power-sapping aircon off for the wade)."

would you not recommend keeping the windows open and seatbelts off incase you are in too deep and need to get out quickly to reduce risk of drowning?

[petermoffat]

I drowned a Colt DC in 2007, got caught in a flash flood over a low level crossing on the way home from work. Nearly drowned because the electric windows stopped working water kept forcing the doors closed and we panicked. Front passenger froze up and couldn't undo his seat belt.

From experience, I'll never cross water I can't see the bottom of without walking it. And when I do, I'll have the windows open and seat belt off. After floating down the river for about 40m the water started coming it at the air vents. I don't think a ninja could have reacted quickly enough to get everything sorted in those few seconds.

[Landy777]

Great info Defenderman. Its always good to hear these points over and over again.
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........just waiting for a comment from someone highlighting the fact that - maximum fan spead for positive pressure wont work in a defender... because of all the gaps in the Defenders body panels

[Imvubu]

Let the water in for better traction.

If the engine was under water, check all the bearings on the pulleys. Also check your wheelbearings.

[HenryT]

"I'll never cross water I can't see the bottom of without walking it."

Can't agree more.

However in Botswana you then have to consider if the water is not crocodile invested.

My solution when I come across water in the wild: stop, take out a beer and wait for someone more adventurous to arrive.

[MikeHenry]

My solution when I come across water in the wild: stop, take out a beer and wait for someone more adventurous to arrive.

This one has my vote!!

[Andrew5336]

Quite a nice idea that we do on most of the new Defenders we sell is to rubberise the interior floor as one does a bakkie.

If you are willing to do a bit of work it willbe possible to remove that battery and electrics under the other seat and get them to seal the "boxes" up properly.

Then a bit of silicone on the rubber thing where the wires go through will seal it properly.

I find the rubberising really cuts down on dust, water and noise.

[Maml]

...rubberise the interior floor as one does a bakkie...

Hey Andrew, who do you guys use for rubberising?

I've always wanted to, but don't want to leave my 90 with someone who doesn't know what they're doing.

An idea on cost would be a bonus.

Thank you

P.S: hey, are you the one who owns that grey V8 90?

[VonkproP]

I can definitely vouch for Hotone, awesome product!
I had my Navara loadbin done when i got it, and the product is great. Super hard.
Normal rubberizing usually only lasts a couple of years, specially if you load sand and stuff on the back of the bakkie and unload with a spade, but hotone you can try your best with a spade or whatever you like, it will not chip or lift. And it is cheap!!

my defender will definitely be done within the next couple of weeks.

what do you do for a drain plug in the foot wells?

[Maml]

I can definitely vouch for Hotone, awesome product!

Cool. will look into it - thanks

what do you do for a drain plug in the foot wells?

Park at an angle & open the door? ...nah, mine has drain plugs as standard - carpet 'clips' into them, pop the carpet and you'll see.

[Ryss]

Very Good thread.

I remember when it happened to me. Only noticed when towing the caravan home. The rear diff started to heat up and due to the water contamination, the water got hot and blew all the oil out the diff and I could smell the oil burning on the exhaust. Ever tried towing a caravan with only FWD.

I fitted breather pipes but used Nipples screwed into diff gearbox, transfer case in place of breather valves, which I then fitted to end of hose.

Good tip would be to leave enough slack in the pipe so that the pipe is not pulled off when the axle travel is maxed out.

Luckily today most vehicles are fitted with electric fans and or fans with vicious couplings. Years ago damage was caused when the fan hit the water and bent into the radiator causing a major problem. So either way, another good reason to wade with cool running gear.

[JACQ.]

If you are willing to do a bit of work it willbe possible to remove that battery and electrics under the other seat and get them to seal the "boxes" up properly.

Hi Andrew
There is another thread here on an unventilated battery in a caravan - would it not cause a problem if one seal up the vent holes in the battery compartment under the passenger seat? I have been wanting to do this but do not want to end up with a problem if something goes wrong with the battery? Would appreciate your input.
Thanks
JACQ.

[BIG PIG]

All this on vehicles supposedly made for "Off Road" use?

[Imvubu]

Ummm...yes, they wade successfully with the right preparation. If the truck doesn't let the water in whilst in wading, it will become to buoyant and you will lose traction, upon which forward momentum will cease and you'll be in all kinds of trouble.

[Dave 2000]

Wading in water a metre in a defender or not you should be using a boat!

regards

Dave

[WernerLouw79]

Hi Andrew
There is another thread here on an unventilated battery in a caravan - would it not cause a problem if one seal up the vent holes in the battery compartment under the passenger seat? I have been wanting to do this but do not want to end up with a problem if something goes wrong with the battery? Would appreciate your input.
Thanks
JACQ.

Hydrogen is lighter than air. It will not vent through the bottom of the vehicle. I have seen batteries blow under a car bonnet. Plenty of ventilation there... I dont get the point of the vent holes for hydrogen.


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[HeinrichC]

Why go through all that stuff in the list? Buy a boat, will be less hassles

[Dave 2000]

Hydrogen is lighter than air. It will not vent through the bottom of the vehicle. I have seen batteries blow under a car bonnet. Plenty of ventilation there... I dont get the point of the vent holes for hydrogen.

Hydrogen gas tends to rot materials around it including bare metal, if you have ever seen a Jaguar with the boot mounted battery that had the vent blocked you will know what I mean, any exposed metal starts corroding real quick, carpets and underlay rots in short order as well.

Add to this a nice sealed compartment filled with an explosive gas and all of a sudden the idea of a vent seems.....er sort of sensible.


regards

Dave

[WernerLouw79]

I would guess that the rot is caused by sulphuric acid vapor not hydrogen. Sulphuric acid will be released when the hydrogen boils up in the battery. The hydrogen will escape out the top of the container / cavity even if the bottom is not vented. Hydrogen is the lightest substance on earth and has the highest escape velocity. If there is any hole in the top, it will find it and escape...

AFAIK hydrogen does not readily react with metals... You need an oxidiser like oxygen.



Sorry to have dug up such an old thread...


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