WJ 2.7 CRD Maintenance

[wtrlan]

I have a WJ 2.7 CRD and would like to ensure that the maintenance is carried out correctly and regularly on this vehicle. I am planning to do a high mileage and intend to limit the risk of breakdowns through pro-active care.

Now I have read the owner’s manual and what they recommend and I have heard various opinions from a number of people on oil change intervals, the replacing of oil pumps and diesel filters etc, but I would like to know if there is an expert on this model Jeep that could update this post for all similar WJ owners

It would be nice to know

1.) the ideal maintenance intervals for South African conditions, including additional recommended changes to consumables.
2.) Recommended parts, brands and lubricants
3.) Recommended mechanics in the Western Cape

Many thanks.

[Ernie12!]

Good morning wtrlan,

I am also doing high milage and so far, touch wood, with no major problems. At going 210,000 km I am still relying on the agents to service this car for the same reasons you mentioned. Will follow this thread to see if anybody can suggest an equal or better alternative...
At the recommended 20000km service intervals there is hardly a noticable drop on the oil level on the dip-stick.
I firmly believe that only manufacturer specified lubricants be used - both the gearboxes and engine are high-tech pieces of equipment and you need to put into them what they have been designed to run on.
The type of roads you travel on might also affect the service intervals.

For now I think sticking to manufacturer's recomendations will be the safe option.
Enjoy the ride,
Ernst

[marsian]

First a bit of background information...

I am glad to hear that there are other JGC WG 2.7 CRD owners who are planning to keep their vehicles for an extended period of time (mileage). One of the influencing factors for me when deciding to purchase the vehicle was the Mercedes engine/gearbox combination. I purchased the 2004 2.7 CRD Overland in November 2006 with 67k and FSH with the intention to keep the vehicle for an extended period. It now has completed 114k and I must admit that I have really enjoyed the vehicle thus far and have completed about 30k off the tar road. The vehicle has never left me stranded and has always got me back home again safely. I enjoy working on my own vehicle and make as little as possible use of the dealers for servicing. I know one or two good guys at the dealers and only approach them when information is required.

I have heard of T1N Sprinters doing 300k plus miles on the 2.7 CRD. This engine is also known as the Mercedes OM647 and is used in the Merc E-Class 270 CDI and 2004-2006 Sprinter, with modifications to the input manifold, sump and turbo to fit it into the Jeep body.

I had only two serious problems with the vehicle and both of these ironically were Mercedes related. A leak on the high pressure diesel pump and a gearbox failure. I had the diesel pump fixed for free at a Bosch agent. I had to replace the gearbox at 110k as I was not comfortable with the damage to the original unit.

Now for the thread related info...

I believe it could be beneficial to share some info and experiences of the 2.7CRD so here goes... (As time passes by more information may become available)

Good information sources about the 2.7 engine can also be found at:

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/
and
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...play.php?f=130


I stick to the service manual Schedule 'B' maintenance procedures (see attachment) This basically means a 10k service interval.

Engine oil
Oil and filter is being replaced every 10k.
Currently I use Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 as the original Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30AB used by the dealers are not available anymore.
Chrysler South Africa now recommends Mobil Delvac MX 15W40 or Castrol GTX Pro E7 15W40. I am considering using Shell Rimula Ultra 10W-40 from 130k onwards - still need to make final descision.

Diesel
Only using 50ppm low sulphur diesel - Sasol ULS, Shell V-Power or Total Eco.

Driving Style
Try to keep engine rpm below 2000 until engine temp > 60 degrees C. I have an EGT guage fitted so I make sure that exhaust gas temperature do not exceed 630 degrees C.

Injectors
Certain sources state that the injectors should be replaced at 96k. The dealers can check the delivery rate balance of the injectors with the DRB III.
My engine is currently over-fuelling, within limits, on injector 1 and 3. I haven't got any cold starting issues as yet but I am currently planning to source new injectors and keeping them on standby. At least there are symptoms such as worse diesel consumption, heavy smoking and hard starting which should be indicative of injector failure.
I will try to order injectors with the same classification codes as currently installed.
I further believe that diesel quality plays and important role in the lifespan of an injector - the less the particulate matter in the diesel the longer the injector life.
The trick with the injectors are that they might be difficult to remove (stuck) and a special lubricant must be applied when replacing them. Injectors number 4 and 5 are very difficult to remove and require the engine/gearbox to be lowered. Some workshops cuts a hole in the obstructing panel with a chassis punch through which the injector is removed. This could save some time and risk but is not guaranteed to work if the injector is stuck.

Coolant
Be sure to use the Mopar recommended fluid to be changed every 150k. I am investigating information I heard about this fluid not being very effective protecting aluminium parts of the engine.

Other
Every 5000k check that there is no leakage around the injectors. This condition is also know as 'black death' and if detected early can save you a lot of trouble.
Check the serpentine belt idler pulley bearings at 100k and replace idler if not rotating smoothly.

I hope this can be a start and that other owners will contribute to get as much information available as possible.

Barto did start a sticky on problems but I believe service info for the engine and for that matter the WG Jeep Grand Cherokee could be a great source of information for other members.

All is done in good faith and to be able to help other owners.

[JacquesJeep]

"A leak on the high pressure diesel pump and a gearbox failure. I had the diesel pump fixed for free at a Bosch agent. I had to replace the gearbox at 110k as I was not comfortable with the damage to the original unit".


Can you be more specicfic on where the pump has leaked? I have a similar problem and maybe it is something common on these pumps. Done 130k so far, no other issues.


Jacques

[wtrlan]

Brilliant post Marsian.

This is exactly the info I believe a lot of similar Jeep owners will be looking for and a great start to this thread.

I bought my 05 Jeep with 49000Kms and intend to keep it for as long as possible.

[marsian]

Can you be more specicfic on where the pump has leaked? I have a similar problem and maybe it is something common on these pumps. Done 130k so far, no other issues.


Jacques

Please refer to attached diagram.

The leak normally occurs when the o-ring at one of the end caps (Item Nr 1 pointing to cap) perishes, this was a common problem on the Merc diesel pumps. This requires the pump to be repaired and preferably tested on test bench.

It is also possible for one of the clear plastic pipes (Similar to Item 10) to develop hairline cracks due to age or the o-rings (Typ. Item 13,14) can perish. These repairs can be easily done yourself, just make sure you get the correct size and type o-rings.

[Chrisv]

Hi there

Thank you for a very informative post.

Im looking into buying a WJ 2.7 CRD as a vehicle to keep over the long term so the information has been great.

I too am looking at this vehichle as a result of the 2.7 Merc motor and gearbox which I understand is a very reliable combination (power delivery as well as fuel consumption wise is apparently extremely good).

At the prices they are going at the moment I believe that a 2.7 WJ Crd is a brilliant buy if you take into consideration what you are getting for your money.

Thanks for the post!

[JacquesJeep]

Thanks for the info, what I found is exactly that and if it is parked on an incline it actually sucks air and leaks. It is however a minor problem just frustrating!

Might be a good idea to post this if they open up a thred for us!

Do you think it is a good idea to replace all the "o" rings if you find one leaking?


Jacques

[marsian]

Thanks for the info, what I found is exactly that and if it is parked on an incline it actually sucks air and leaks. It is however a minor problem just frustrating!

Might be a good idea to post this if they open up a thred for us!

Do you think it is a good idea to replace all the "o" rings if you find one leaking?


Jacques

Always a good idea to replace all. I think the end cap seals come as a kit anyway.

[Jimjam007]

I bought a 2002 2.7 two weeks ago with 123k on the clock. With all the research I did beforehand, this may be useful to others:

• Status at purchase:

1. there was a diesel leak so the dealer repaired the HPressure fuel pump - R7000, with a kit (ie reconditioned). Seems a common problem according to this site. I wonder if the replacement kits are an improvement? Pretty expensive.
2. everything else is immaculate - engine & interior. These cars are usually well looked after.
3. VERY good value for money, though this is probably justified by the risks associated with a high-tech vehicle (from a maintenance POV)

• General info:

1. Steer very clear of anything worse than 50ppm diesel, and pump stations which may have poor quality diesel (water, muck etc)
2. On speaking with a Bosch diesel mechanic, he reckons that good clean 50ppm fuel will NEVER damage the injectors. They could last indefinitely, the theory goes
3. Turbo's also seem a regular problem area. Not sure how to prevent this in the end but apparently idling a diesel for a few seconds (just 5 will do) before switching off can increase their lifespan.

Thanks for starting up this useful thread WTRLAN

[marsian]

JimJam,

I think the dealers were a bit expensive with the repairs op the hp pump.(Another reason why I think this is a good thread?) They also told me at the time that it will cost R14k for a replacement unit and that the reconditioned ones don't last longer that 6 months.

Well, I had the hp pump serviced by a Bosch service centre (the hp pump is a Bosch unit after all) two years and 40k ago and it is still fine.
I think you will be OK with the repaired unit if the correct new seals were used.

I think turbo's should be considered a serviceable item and this does depend on how the turbo was treated by the driver. Kits are available for the Garret turbo's used. I will be satisfied if I can do a preventative service on the turbo at 150k.

Thanks for your input as well.

[JacquesJeep]

Marsian,

What did the pump kit cost you can you remember? I always had it done at Bosch (on my previous Jeeps) and were very happy. Tha agents are a rip off!


Jacques

[marsian]

Marsian,

What did the pump kit cost you can you remember? I always had it done at Bosch (on my previous Jeeps) and were very happy. Tha agents are a rip off!


Jacques

I got lucky and the guy did it for me for free! I collected the pump four hours later.

(I really felt so humbled that gave them a couple of pockets of oranges from the farm which I had in the boot of the car - These things supposedly doesn't happen anymore!)

[JacquesJeep]

How lucky can you get? Anyone had any experience in bleeding the WJ after replacing filters?

[marsian]

How lucky can you get? Anyone had any experience in bleeding the WJ after replacing filters?

Do NOT do it the way the dealers do it! I have seen them sticking a compressed air line into the diesel tank. And afterwards the whole engine, gearbox, input manifold flap servo etc. covered in diesel - expecting you to clean it all off.

Mercedes fitted a bleeding valve to the engine for a reason!

I made a little device to make it simple and clean. I'll try to find the best way is of showing or explaining it to you. Give me a day or two to prepare something.

[JacquesJeep]

Thanks Marsian looking fwd to the detail. I have seen my local guy, not the stealers, attached a vacuum to the return pipe but did not really pay attention. It is important to know how to especially if you get stuck in the sticks! This is why this forum is great!

[julian]

I purchased my 2002 Grand Cherokee Ltd crd last year, and to date have covered 15000kms making the total now 134000kms. I have enjoyed the driving, i find the engine/gearbox very smooth and powerful even when towing my caravan. the fuel economy is excellent for its size, 11,5lts/100km max and usually around 8,9lts/100km at best.
when i purchased the jeep the garage had it serviced and had the aircon pump repaired as it was leaking and would not hold it's charge, since then i had no problems until a couple of weeks ago.
Ever since i purchased the jeep it sometimes more than others blew a bit of black smoke out when i pulled away, then it settled, so about a month ago i went to the local diesel specialists. they lifted the bonnet and ran the motor and told me it was injectors, could be one or more, and they can repair. As we were going to Shelley beach a couple of weeks later i said i would bring it in when i returned.
Any way we set off for Shelley beach, i took the off ramp at Port Shepstone to take the scenic route, and after a few kilometres i lost a lot of power and then i had a lot of black smoke.
The next morning i took it into mercedes at Shelley beach. they were extremely accommodating and the manager started on it almost immediately.
their driver dropped us at the beach and later took us to the hotel, and collected me the next day when the jeep was fixed and cleaned.
the manager explained that they found a couple of broken wires to a couple of sensors but after fixing the problem remained. they checked the fuel filter, had the fuel tested, checked pressures, injectors(which they found all to be 100%) and as the engine light was not on, and no codes showing it took time eventually they found 2 vacuum pipes crossed by the EGR. They charged me just over a R1000 for the time and work done(they even tidy ed up and checked all my wiring) which i found very reasonable. we drove home with it and i have drove it since and it now drives even smoother, more responsive with no smoke at all and my climate controll seams more responsive and accurate.
mercedes said the problem was much less evident at altitude and the arrival at sea level made the problem a lot worse. These pipes were obviously crossed at some point before i purchased the vehicle.

[marsian]

Julian,

Great first post and thanks for sharing the info.

I am very glad to see you got some good service from the dealer. A big hooray to them. (I am not being sarcastic.)

I wonder which sensor wires were broken because these will normally set the MIL light.

I am impressed with your consumption figures - do you drive mostly at the coast?

[julian]

when i arrived at the dealers the engine light was on, they attached the diagnostic computer, and it showed a fault with the air intake sensor, showing -40 degrees continually, they then found the wires broken to the sensor which is mounted on the under side of the intake, and there was also a damaged wire to the box where the throttle cable goes to. After these repairs there was no light but the problem was still there. then they eventually located the problem with the crossed vacuum pipes.
most of my driving is on the Highveld, i usually drive at the speed limits, and i find that to do this i am hardly touching the throttle, even pulling away, as there
is always plenty of power, thats why i thought my comsumption was good.
we live 40kms south of jhb. and when we arrived at shelley beach it took only 49lts to top it up and that was over 600kms.

[marsian]

Please refer to attached files.

I was desperate to check my transmission fluid colour when I quickly put this crude system together on a Sunday afternoon.
It works well for me and there are lots of room for improvement.(i.e. fit a relief valve to automatically release pressure in the pistol)

I have used it to check transmission fluid colour, bleed ABS brakes and bleed fuel delivery system after replacing diesel filter.

The system consists of:
- Swimming pool water pistol
- Glass coffee bottle with screw-on lid-
- Some bulk-head fittings
- Pneumatic tubing

It should be quite clear from the attached pictures on how to connect everything.

If you want to bleed the diesel fuel lines it is important to prepare the tip of the suction line as per the picture shown. This ensures that the sealing ball of the bleeding valve is push back to allow diesel to flow freely into the suction line.
The outside diameter of the pneumatic tube must be 8mm to ensure that it seals properly against the o-ring of the bleeding valve.

Diesel Bleeding
Refer to the bleeding procedure attached.
- After step 2 gently insert the suction line tip into the bleeding valve (where the seal was removed from) until the bleeding valve sealing ball allows diesel to pass thru.
- Remove the intermediate pipe and compress the pistol fully. Reconnect the intermediate pipe and pull the pistol backwards to cause a suction via the container to the bleeding valve.
- Diesel should eventually start flowing into the container.
- Continue this procedure until there are no more air bubbles in the suction line feeding into the container.
- Now pull the suction line from the bleeding valve and insert the bleeding valve as per attached instructions.
- Discard the diesel in the container in an environmentally friendly way please.

I have a 1.8m long spare suction line which I leave inside the vehicle in a resealable jiffy bag - JIC I need to use the old mouth to suction line technique in the bush.

This is a simple and clean method to bleed your 2.7 CRD diesel supply lines up to the inlet of the high pressure pump.