WJ 2.7 CRD Maintenance

[marsian]

Nicksmith,

If the injectors tested OK, I would start to think about the turbo. How many km's has the engine done?
If for some reason too much oil is dumped into the intercooler you can expect some more than usual smoke.
This is my initial reaction - would like to ponder about it a bit more...

[Nicksmith_75]

HI Marsian,
Turbo is brand new. R20k spent at dealers before i bought it. I was wondering if the 500ppm diesel maybe caused the injectors not to atomize properly, hence the query of a safe additive. I know the conventional pump diesel systems have a variety of quitye good additives, esp forte or wynns, but i don't know if these could be detrimental to the high pressure injectors in the crd. The engine done 200k.

[charmois]

Hi Marsian,
I hoped to take delivery of my newish 66,000 miles 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2.7 crd (picture attached) today, but on the day we agreed the sale the dealer found a small diesel leak and agreed to repair it before delivery. He bought two diesel lines at around £50 British and had them fitted but the mechanic then found the fault to be a leaking pump. He has now agreed to replace this at £500 for the part here in Scotland, so i'm still waiting patiently for my new jeep.

I have found your article most informative and this has given me a great incite into the problem and i'll keep tuned in. I have searched for a manual for the 2.7crd model without luck but I see you have some reference material regarding the diesel.

Can you let me know where you sourced it please. Much obliged

Charlie, Scotland (Currently 6 inches deep in snow and looking forward to changing my 98 BMW 523i for the jeep asap.)

[KobusM]

Very refreshing to actually visit a thread where people know what they are talking about and are really helpfull!
I have a 2002 Laredo 2.7 and will not trade this for anything. There is one really annoying thing though: When cold and parked on an incline or similar, it is almost impossible to pull away, as if there is no drive. Once heated up this goes away ,mostly, but it remains sluggish on pull away. This is worse on uphills. Once past 1500rpm it takes off like a scalded cat. Is this normal and are other 2.7 owners experiencing the same? I drove a 2009 Cherokee 2.8 for a while and this was a absolute monster from pull away.

[Chrisv]

Hi there Kobus

I have the same thing with my CRD. It seems that the engine needs to warm up but once warm the lag goes away and she pulls like a train.

So please could the other 2.7 owners confirm if they have the same

I had the same thing on my landy and I just give the motor a chance to warm up nicely.

Thx
Chris

[KobusM]

Thanks Chris for the reply. I tow a lot, and Jeep dealers told me that I need to change diff, gearbox and engine oil more often than usual. Can anyone tell me how often and which lubricants are the best to use? I tow a racecar on a trailer, sometimes long distance.

[Chrisv]

Hi Kobus

Im still keen to get some feedback from other 2.7 owners about the lag....

I know that the diff oil is only available ex dealers and apparently expensive.

As far as engine and gearbox oil is concerned - just look through this thread Marsian posted some details about lubricants - depending on your milage. Im on 138k kms and used the Shell Rimula as per this thread and Im happy.

I believe in changing engine oil every 5000kms - may be overkill but im not bothered cos I love my Jeep and want her to last FOREVER !!!!

:-)

[marsian]

KobusM,

I have heard similar complaint before, but have never really investigated. I will checkit again come winter.

Here is another link that raises the subject:
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...ad.php?t=72448

[Stormboy_sa]

Just some info on the Merc engine and gearbox. Don't have a
Jeep, have the Merc E270.

Manual states service intervals 20000 km when using MB 229.5 spec oil and 15000 km when using MB 229.3 oil. Do not use anything lower (like MB 229.1) in these motors. These MB codes are printed on the back of all good oils containers. I'm currently using Mobil 1 0W-40 (MB 229.5).

Mercedes also states that the auto gearbox is sealed and the oil good for life. Do NOT believe this. My mechanic says he gets many of these units that fail. If you want to get long life out of your gearbox he recommends changing the oil every 45000km.

[KobusM]

Thanks for the feedback, especially the ausjeep site. I use Liqui Moly fully synthetic oil, 5w40 in the engine. Its currently the highest spec available and approved by BMW and MERCEDES BENZ. Since I changed, the results are excellent. The economy improved and the engine runs markedly cooler under load. I believe the aftermarket plug and play modules available for these engines takes care of the lag problem? The one is from Cape Town, called the MONO or Quadra. The mono refers to one map only and the Quadro to 4 map capability. The other is the DASTEK one.
Does anybody have experience with these , whether its worth it and reliable?
Thanks, guys.

[KobusM]

I am very dissapointed in my Jeep today This morning the engine light came on and since this happened once before I switched off, restarted and all was fine again, or so I thought

After about 40km it happened again and this time remained in limp mode.Also a lot of expensive smoke billowed from under the hood in the ecu area.

It was towed home on a truck and I removed the ecu for repair. R4000 later and I was ready to check all the wiring before installing the fixed ecu. Absolutely no burnt wiring,sleeving,channeling or plastics could be found.

The ADS and Fuel Control fuses were blown. I systematically refitted plugs,fuses and relays in stages and in between tested to see if the fuses are going to blow again. Nothing happened and I am happy to say it runs as sweet as ever................but!

Not finding anything that could have caused the ecu to fry itself is very worrying

I also found a DASTEK Q-chip installed and hidden away. I am not sure if this could cause my dilemma and if its indeed working properly? The blown fuel control fuse makes this a suspect.

Does anybody have any info or theories as to what might have happened?

[marsian]

Kobus,

This is interesting...

Blown ECU's as far a I now is a very rare occurrence on the 2.7 CRD's

The only other guy I know of that lost an ECU also had a Dastek chip fitted. At the time he thought that it was the Scanguage II module connected to the OBD 2 port that caused the ECU failure.

I do not want to start a debate about the good and bad of chips or say that it is the chips fault. This thread is not for that. Your Jeep has enough torque and power - get used to it or take the risk of reduced engine and gearbox life.

In my opinion there is a common denominator here.

Has there been any other damage except for the ECU?

[KobusM]

Marsian, thanks for the quick reply. I agree with your diagnosis since absolutely no other damage occured. I removed the battery, fuse box and opened all the looms as far as possible. Nothing!

My only possible solution is to remove the suspect #1 and take it from there.

[KobusM]

Marsian, guys, I am at a loss for words! I removed the euipment mentioned before and took my pride and joy for a test drive. With mixed feelings because I expected worse performance even though I would have peace of mind.

How wrong was I! Gone is the lag from pull away, throttle modulation much more precise and sensitive, no more "dead pedal" feeling and ,yes, loads more torque throughout the rev range!

No more smoke at startup and according to the trip computer, much better on diesel.

Thanks again and I hope this warns other owners not to part with hard earned cash for something so not worth it!!

[JacquesJeep]

This is very interesting......

[PhilFM]

Like I said in my first post in another thread, I am new here and have bought a 2004 2.7 Overlander on Tuesday.

The "water in fuel filter" light (top left) has come on and keeps coming on. Yesterday I went and had it checked out and fuel filter and all else is fine, still the light comes on. Is it possible that the sensor might be faulty or should I check something else. I also need to add that when I got the vehicle the tank was empty, I could only fill at an Engen filling station and will from now on only be looking at filling with the better fuel at either Sasol or Shell.

Your help in this regard will be much appreciated.

Phil

[JacquesJeep]

Should a faulty sensor not be detected when they run the diagnostic?

[PhilFM]

Did not yet run any diagnostics, will be doing full service next month, then it will be done. Just wondered if someone has or had a similar problem

[JacquesJeep]

no sorry haven't heard of it and did not spot something on the forum

[KobusM]

PhilFm, I would think you have a faulty sensor. Turn your ignition on four times in quick succession without starting the car. Leave it on after the fourth and check what fault codes flash on the digital odometer display. You can cross reference on www.wjjeeps.com under trouble codes.