OEM Rim Cracked

[faniedup]

Almost all of my 3 decades of overlanding was with vehicles with alloy rims, never had a failed rim, maybe this was just a once off not perfect rim.

If space is available a second spare wheel makes sense if you want to cover the risk, as was mentioned earlier.

[JLK]

Rob, get a proper 3 ply side wall tyre to protect the rims in the event of a pothole.

Never heard of such a failure. I would just replace that rim. Check at the tyre/wheel shops for those EOM rims. Many take them off with that dunflop tyre, for a better looks aftermarket rims, and tyres.

[River Rat]

3) Rum can and do solve some complicated problems….


Yes the 105 steel rims are nice. I run a set on my one Cruiser.
I think they have a 0 offset, but they still run quite wide though.
On my older Cruiser without flares they are standing out by quite a margin, spraying my bakkie on the sides(and my elbow hanging out on the door) with grit and dirt.

They are quite expensive buying new, but you sometimes see them advertised second hand.

Are they fitted on a LC79 ? Toyota seems uncertain whether they fit or not.

[Sebastiaan]

Are they fitted on a LC79 ? Toyota seems uncertain whether they fit or not.

My LC came from factory with split rims and Yokohama Super Hajari tyres (2013 model).

Replaced rims with 105 rims (ordered through Toyota -you have to order / buy the wheel nuts for these rims as well) and AT tyres within the first month of ownership. Never had any problems with the rims since Dec 2013.

Only reason why I thought of replacing them with 79 series alloys was to save weight

[River Rat]

A few comments to address first of all is this an overaction to what could be rather rare failure? Well yes and no. The word of mouth statistics would suggest a repeat occurrence is highly unlikely so on the surface I am overacting. However when one considers what we want to do with the vehicle perhaps not.

We are solo travelers with the goal of traveling north as far as Lake Turkana. We chose this specific vehicle with exactly that goal in mind. The first phase (2 to 3 years) of this endeavor was to do reasonably short "local" trips specifically to identify any weakness in our set up be it mechanical, camping equipment, logistics, communication, personal capabilities etc. Once a weakness is identified the intention is to address that weakness as best we can before embarking on the big trip or BHAG as we call it.

So when this rim failed it immediately falls into the category of a problem that needs to be addressed. You might ask why if it's statistically a relatively small risk? Well it's a matter of creating the confidence that we have a set up that's as ready as can be for the job required. Trying to get to being as close to bomb proof before we leave is the plan, we need to be confident that are with no stone unturned.

As things stand the Aline rims aren't fit for purpose but the 105 rims are, as well as the Dynamic Round mine spec rims (1800kg) if I can find either I will take them. As weight is our biggest enemy we don't carry second spare but we do carry an extra tire so that we can fit it onto the rim of a completely failed tire, of course this is also a way of mitigating against a failed rim.

On a separate note the upgrade of the tires was always in the plan and I am really intrigued that the Dunlops have not had a puncture in over 20k despite having endured Kaa, Moremi, Khwai, Nxai pan, Mozambique, Malawi, Tuli and Gonarezhou. They will be replaced before we tackle Namibia next year which will effectively serve as the dress rehearsal.

[Sebastiaan]

My LC came from factory with split rims and Yokohama Super Hajari tyres (2013 model).

Replaced rims with 105 rims (ordered through Toyota -you have to order / buy the wheel nuts for these rims as well) and AT tyres within the first month of ownership. Never had any problems with the rims since Dec 2013.

Only reason why I thought of replacing them with 79 series alloys was to save weight

Toyota part numbers and description:
Rims: 4261160200 Wheeldisc
Wheel nuts: 9094201101 Nut Hub for Axle

[River Rat]

My LC came from factory with split rims and Yokohama Super Hajari tyres (2013 model).

Replaced rims with 105 rims (ordered through Toyota -you have to order / buy the wheel nuts for these rims as well) and AT tyres within the first month of ownership. Never had any problems with the rims since Dec 2013.

Only reason why I thought of replacing them with 79 series alloys was to save weight

I wonder what the actual weight difference is between alloy and steelies?

[River Rat]

Toyota part numbers and description:
Rims: 4261160200 Wheeldisc
Wheel nuts: 9094201101 Nut Hub for Axle

Thanks for the heads up on the nuts, I was wondering about this. Do the hub covers fit ?

[kenskind]

Thanks for the heads up on the nuts, I was wondering about this. Do the hub covers fit ?

Hub covers will not fit. The steel rims also have steel rim specific nuts that also need to be torqued significantly higher than the alloys. Take note of how they get centred on the hub as well otherwise you will have a bounce. 209Nm for steel and 131 for alloys.

[Sebastiaan]

I wonder what the actual weight difference is between alloy and steelies?

I don't know what the weight difference is.

What I do know is picking up the LC spare to put it onto the rear bumper swing arm is not that easy anymore, the caravan alloy spare is easier/lighter to lift to the swing arm - same size tyre, or maybe just my imagination.

[Climbingnut]

A few comments to address first of all is this an overaction to what could be rather rare failure? Well yes and no. The word of mouth statistics would suggest a repeat occurrence is highly unlikely so on the surface I am overacting. However when one considers what we want to do with the vehicle perhaps not.

We are solo travelers with the goal of traveling north as far as Lake Turkana. We chose this specific vehicle with exactly that goal in mind. The first phase (2 to 3 years) of this endeavor was to do reasonably short "local" trips specifically to identify any weakness in our set up be it mechanical, camping equipment, logistics, communication, personal capabilities etc. Once a weakness is identified the intention is to address that weakness as best we can before embarking on the big trip or BHAG as we call it.

So when this rim failed it immediately falls into the category of a problem that needs to be addressed. You might ask why if it's statistically a relatively small risk? Well it's a matter of creating the confidence that we have a set up that's as ready as can be for the job required. Trying to get to being as close to bomb proof before we leave is the plan, we need to be confident that are with no stone unturned.

As things stand the Aline rims aren't fit for purpose but the 105 rims are, as well as the Dynamic Round mine spec rims (1800kg) if I can find either I will take them. As weight is our biggest enemy we don't carry second spare but we do carry an extra tire so that we can fit it onto the rim of a completely failed tire, of course this is also a way of mitigating against a failed rim.

On a separate note the upgrade of the tires was always in the plan and I am really intrigued that the Dunlops have not had a puncture in over 20k despite having endured Kaa, Moremi, Khwai, Nxai pan, Mozambique, Malawi, Tuli and Gonarezhou. They will be replaced before we tackle Namibia next year which will effectively serve as the dress rehearsal.

I used to live up in Lake Turkana area, and now live in Namibe Angola. I have OEM steelies on my 200 GX-R and even though the aluminum wheels are prevalent, I wouldn’t change them if you paid me. They are bomb proof. I have OEM aluminum wheels on my DC 79 now and am keeping my eyes peeled for used 105 wheels. Many places outside of SA/Nam don’t have the sticky wheel weights for balancing, and end up damaging the exterior of your aluminum wheel when it comes time to re balance them or swop your damaged tyre with a spare. Also, I’ve had issues with the inside rim of aluminum wheels having a tendency to go out of round more so than the steelies. If I was doing trips like you’re talking, I’d stick with the 105 wheels or the OEM steel spoke ones with round holes (not splitties). If you had to have alloy, go Method. I’ve seen people do global trips with them, but they’re not cheap.

[River Rat]

I used to live up in Lake Turkana area, and now live in Namibe Angola. I have OEM steelies on my 200 GX-R and even though the aluminum wheels are prevalent, I wouldn’t change them if you paid me. They are bomb proof. I have OEM aluminum wheels on my DC 79 now and am keeping my eyes peeled for used 105 wheels. Many places outside of SA/Nam don’t have the sticky wheel weights for balancing, and end up damaging the exterior of your aluminum wheel when it comes time to re balance them or swop your damaged tyre with a spare. Also, I’ve had issues with the inside rim of aluminum wheels having a tendency to go out of round more so than the steelies. If I was doing trips like you’re talking, I’d stick with the 105 wheels or the OEM steel spoke ones with round holes (not splitties). If you had to have alloy, go Method. I’ve seen people do global trips with them, but they’re not cheap.

I think it's the going out of round that's my main concern, once the rim is out of round it's just a matter of time before it cracks.

[Disco Smiley]

Just an interesting observation. I noticed that some of the offroad vehicles of guys here at work are running on steel rims. Thinking about this thread I asked them why. They recon they do not trust the aluminum wheels in the mountains or the desert.

They have town cars, big SUV's with aluminum wheels, but they recon all the cars going off road get steel rims.

Attached are 2 photos.

[Mapog]

Are they fitted on a LC79 ? Toyota seems uncertain whether they fit or not.

They fit perfectly,…..only sticks out a smaal bit, but its a 9J rim after all.
I still use my original nuts,….the replacement ones looks identical to the original ones that came with the splitties.

[Climbingnut]

I think it's the going out of round that's my main concern, once the rim is out of round it's just a matter of time before it cracks.

Me too. Just tried to balance my Toyota 79 aluminum wheel 2 days ago as it was vibrating between 70-100 mph. Turns out, it was out of round. Balanced as best we could, and moved it to the rear axle. I’ve gotta get the 105 steelies and some new tyres next time the cruiser is in Windhoek.

[iandvl]

Just an interesting observation. I noticed that some of the offroad vehicles of guys here at work are running on steel rims. Thinking about this thread I asked them why. They recon they do not trust the aluminum wheels in the mountains or the desert.

They have town cars, big SUV's with aluminum wheels, but they recon all the cars going off road get steel rims.

Attached are 2 photos.

Your second photo features, from what I can see, a GQ Patrol. Hence a Wagon. And not an SUV.

Just saying.

[Disco Smiley]

Your second photo features, from what I can see, a GQ Patrol. Hence a Wagon. And not an SUV.

Just saying.

Jib. That is why I said off road vehicles in the first sentence. Not SUV.

At the end I mentioned SUV's as these are the Lexus, Range Rover, Land Cruiser and Nissan Armada drivers.

There is a load of SWB Nissan patrol with 4.8 V8 engines here but they are blooming expensive if you can find one for sale. Although I am a Landy man at heart I would love one of those.

[Climbingnut]

Anyone know where to find Dynamic or KOH steelies? I’ve seen they have 1400kg and even 1600kg load wheels in Oz. If 105 series steelies are unobtanium, than I’d love to get me some mine spec Dynamic or KOH 16” or even 17” steelies.

[River Rat]

Anyone know where to find Dynamic or KOH steelies? I’ve seen they have 1400kg and even 1600kg load wheels in Oz. If 105 series steelies are unobtanium, than I’d love to get me some mine spec Dynamic or KOH 16” or even 17” steelies.

https://www.errolstyres.co.za/wheel/...ine-spec/15590

[Climbingnut]

[mention]River Rat [/mention], I took a look at my damaged OEM Toyota aluminium wheel and discovered some interesting things when comparing it to the OEM steel wheel that came with my 79 DC in the beginning. Perhaps it will be useful to you and/or others, and maybe someone with better knowledge can weigh in on some of the stamps/casting marks on the wheels.

Here below is my original wheel (steel) that came with my poverty pack VDJ79 DC. I even have manual windows and such… I’m guessing J16 is 16” wheel and 6J is 6” width. The rest of the numbers don’t mean much to me. I was hoping something would tell me the offset and back spacing.
Attachment 735975
Now for the OEM Toyota aluminium wheel. Looks like more info here. 770kg weight max, 16” wheel x 7” width. Not sure of the other numbers/letters.
Attachment 735976
But wait, there’s more! IIRC, ET speaks to the offset, so in this case, the OEM aluminium wheel has a 20 degree offset? I’d guess that to be positive? Thoughts?
Attachment 735977
And still more casting. No idea what this is about.
Attachment 735978
Nor this.
Attachment 735979

What I do know is that I would like to stick to the factory offset and backspacing as much as possible. What it seems to me though is that depending on the package, the 7x series has various wheels with a small variety of offsets & back spacing. Am I correct in this understanding?

With what I have just seen now, I think I am leaning more and more towards the Dynamics wheels, but I want to make sure I get the right offset and backspacing for my 79 DC. Can anyone weigh in as to what that should be?