OEM Rim Cracked

[River Rat]

If possible please send me photos of the numbers and other info on the back of the wheel. I will be able to tell you the manufacturer, date and country of origin.

You can PM me if you want.

Here's the numbers I could find on the inside. There were also some sort of insignia on the outside as per the last two photos.

[janseekat]

Food for thought

https://apexwheels.com/blog/technica...fSI7hjDFATIUpe

[River Rat]

Got the report back from Toyota they have found evidence of two impacts and the rim is out of round so no manufacturing fault and hence no warranty claim. On closer inspection I can see the dents and they're really minor almost imperceptible, so I suspect that it wasn't necessarily the impacts that caused the crack but rather the compromised structural integrity. The impacts are about 45 degrees from where the crack is, so I am of the opinion that I had an oblong rim and it flexed at the "sharper" points until it failed. What supports this argument is the fact that I do not recall any significant impacts on the last trip but I do recall having some impacts on a section of the EN1 in Mozambique, severely potholed section between Inhassorro and Tete. We were travelling at dusk and with other vehicles zigzagging to avoid the potholes we were often blinded which is why we hit the odd pothole albeit at reduced speeds leading to very light visible damage. That specific rim was front left at the time and we have done about 8000 kms since then including, Malawi, Moremi, Tuli and this last trip to Gonarezhou. To be fair to alloy rims this could have been a case of a perfect storm two impacts at opposite sides causing an out of shape rim which was then subjected to the flex induced by corrugated roads in 43 deg heat. Nonetheless I have the answer I am looking for which is that as a general rule alloy wheels are not fit for purpose for my needs and I am in the market for steelies.

Here's an interesting video on the difference between steelies and alloys https://youtu.be/lWM3o2v46KI?si=Pw2NViar_haZWKhD

[Mapog]

While we are on the topic of 105GX steelies. One of the best looking and strongest rims to ever be made.

Way back when I still had my 105 I always kept a steady supply of rims on hand and somewhere along the line I also ended up with an accident damaged one.

So one time with a Braai that got "Hoe later hoe kwater" the old Topic of Alloys vs Steelies came up, with the general consensus being a Steely is better since you can beat it straight in case you hit a stump/rock/barrier when out in the bush.

So there we were, Topped up Rum glasses in hand, 105 Rim on the ground and everyone had a turn to try and inflict some sort of movement on that Rim.
4 Pounder barely dinged it. Laying into it with a 16 Pounder had some results but nothing earth shattering.

We came to 2 conclusions that night.
1) No way in Hell are your "repairing" one of those rims out in the bush.
2) If you do somehow manage to damage one of those Rims, you most probably have other bigger issues to worry about.

3) Rum can and do solve some complicated problems….


Yes the 105 steel rims are nice. I run a set on my one Cruiser.
I think they have a 0 offset, but they still run quite wide though.
On my older Cruiser without flares they are standing out by quite a margin, spraying my bakkie on the sides(and my elbow hanging out on the door) with grit and dirt.

They are quite expensive buying new, but you sometimes see them advertised second hand.

[Sebastiaan]

Thanks for this thread.

Saved me a couple of bucks. Was thinking about changing from steelies to the alloy.

[River Rat]

Thanks for this thread.

Saved me a couple of bucks. Was thinking about changing from steelies to the alloy.

Pity I have 4 alloy rims for sale plus a damaged spare that can be repaired for R1800.00.😂

[Disco Smiley]

The 1ST picture is the date of manufacture. In this case 2022 July (07) 18. The following numbers is internal numbers that will give info to the factory.

The sign casted on the front of the wheel is Japanese standards similar to the SABS standard. Any critical safety part supplier must get certification to be able so supply pasts. once you have that you can supply parts.

If you want more info it is normally casted, stamped on pockets in the back if the spokes. There are pockets that give all information regarding the wheel, supplier, internal part number, manufacturer, Xray and leak test information and a lot more.

If there are marks on the wheels that was caused by a "bump" then it can happen. As the wheels are made from an alloy that is heat treated it needs quite a hard nock to create a mark. The tire can also take a knock and compress to a point where the rim does get buckled.

Thank you for reporting. Now you know what happened and, if it was a manufacturing fault, the problem could have been investigated further.

I am sure you can use there report to do an insurance claim.

[River Rat]

The 1ST picture is the date of manufacture. In this case 2022 July (07) 18. The following numbers is internal numbers that will give info to the factory.

The sign casted on the front of the wheel is Japanese standards similar to the SABS standard. Any critical safety part supplier must get certification to be able so supply pasts. once you have that you can supply parts.

If you want more info it is normally casted, stamped on pockets in the back if the spokes. There are pockets that give all information regarding the wheel, supplier, internal part number, manufacturer, Xray and leak test information and a lot more.

If there are marks on the wheels that was caused by a "bump" then it can happen. As the wheels are made from an alloy that is heat treated it needs quite a hard nock to create a mark. The tire can also take a knock and compress to a point where the rim does get buckled.

Thank you for reporting. Now you know what happened and, if it was a manufacturing fault, the problem could have been investigated further.

I am sure you can use there report to do an insurance claim.

The value of reporting this was as you say knowing what the underlying problem is which simply put is that these rims are not fit for purpose for my use. That's not to say that I believe that these rims will regularly fail but if they do it could be catastrophic. For those that have these rims on your vehicle I suspect you will be fine and my research has shown that these types of failures are few and far between, so no reason for panic. However, my strategy with this vehicle is based around preparing it for a trip into Africa with Lake Turkana being our target. The first phase of the preparation was adding the necessities like canopy, drawer systems, roof racks, dual batteries etc. The second phase was to use the vehicle for "short" overlanding trips to identify any mechanical weakness and then upgrade, bearing in mind that 90% of our travel is solo so breakdowns of any sort has to be avoided as far as possible.

So far we have needed to upgrade the suspension and I expected the next to be tires. However, the only flat I have had to date has been as a result of this cracked rim. The potential change to steelies was always on the list and this incident has just brought it forward.

[River Rat]

So the research is complete I can get a set (5) of brand new 105 rims from Toyota for around R23k, a second hand set (thanks Nys) would set me back R20k plus transport from Windhoek so around the same a price, N1 don't have any they would buy from Toyota. A set of Aline steelies would cost about a third of that price so now the question arises is the 3 times the price necessary to solve the problem? I guess to evaluate this one has to define the problem, considering that overlanding is not kind to vehicles and wheels are at the front line of most impacts it stands to reason that rims will be damaged eventually. So the problem is what type of rim is needed so as to not leave me stranded in the bush and I should view rims as a wear and tear item?

With that in mind I now know from experience that alloy wheels when damaged can crack and be rendered useless. While steelies can also be damaged they can be bush repaired and get you home so steelies are definitely the solution. The reputation of the 105 rims suggest that they are the strongest around and less likely to be damaged but there's no guarantees and should something happen I don't like the idea of having to replace at just under R5k when I can solve the problem for a third of that cost. Or put differently I can replace the Aline option 3 times before I regret having not bought the 105s. So this seems to be my option unless someone can talk me into another option. SATIN BLK SPOKE DUAL SILVER PINSTRIPE - A-Line Wheels (alinewheels.co.za)

[iandvl]

Recommendations on the Patrol forum are normally made to stick to stock rims. There are various threads there of after market rims cracking due as they are not built for the weight.

So I roll with factory standard alloy rims and the old man rolls with factory standard steelies.

Disclaimer: I know absolutely nothing of cruisers. I just mention this.

[Mike N]

I would not fit an A-Line steel wheel that does not have a sufficient load rating to an acceptable standard. Can they supply you with that?

[iandvl]

I would not fit an A-Line steel wheel that does not have a sufficient load rating to an acceptable standard. Can they supply you with that?

I wanted to allude to this specifically. But I am battling to find the relevant posts there at the moment. But I agree 110% with Mike.

[ed rouillard]

A friend had a failure on 2 rims from A Line. On a loaded SFA Hilux and some time ago. Saw pic and the steel had failed at the bolts and at the rim. Latter caused a flat and other issues were then seen.

Was a long time ago and probably not relevant.

I have a modded cruiser 79 and rear axle is heavy. That would drive my decision.

My cruiser was modded by TOY for others and has the TOY 105 rims.

Just saying.

[River Rat]

Recommendations on the Patrol forum are normally made to stick to stock rims. There are various threads there of after market rims cracking due as they are not built for the weight.

So I roll with factory standard alloy rims and the old man rolls with factory standard steelies.

Disclaimer: I know absolutely nothing of cruisers. I just mention this.

I don't think strength is the issue it's the propensity of alloy to crack which is the problem, would gladly go with factory steelies but at the moment there's only steelies for the 105 which have to be specially imported with a disclaimer from Toyota that if they don't fit your problem.

[Ferty]

Have heard a few times over the years that the Dynamic steelies are better than the Alines.

Most of these opinions seem to stem from the balancing with a lot if the Alines being out of round from factory. So may be a case of getting them to check this before fitting the tyres to ensure all rims are good to go.

[River Rat]

I would not fit an A-Line steel wheel that does not have a sufficient load rating to an acceptable standard. Can they supply you with that?

Information gleaned (not from official sources) suggest 1200kg for Aline and Grips has offered 1600kg for the alloys. So yes we have a problem. I will enquire with Aline and make sure first.

[River Rat]

Just checked Aline rated to 1100kg Dynamics are 1140kg or 1600kg for the mine spec.

[iandvl]

Just checked Aline rated to 1100kg Dynamics are 1140kg or 1600kg for the mine spec.

The point why I mentioned being careful of aftermarket. And you mentioned earlier that it is probably "not about the weight", but the thing is - it actually is about the weight.

[Geoffth]

Why don't you just take a spare alloy in the unlikely event of a problem.

I'm sure it's a lot less than R23000.

I know you have suffered damage but most off road vehicles in the bush have alloys so it's probably an overreaction.



Geoffth

[kenskind]

Just checked Aline rated to 1100kg Dynamics are 1140kg or 1600kg for the mine spec.

My Dynamic Soft 8 has 1400kg stamped on the rim.