OEM Rim Cracked

[River Rat]

Ouch,didn’t realise so little km’s.

Sadly so which is why I am a bit perplexed and digging deeper.

[PierredW]

Going off topic.

I like the back ground vehicle also.

That is/was a 1984 Cortina p/u with a 350 Chevy V8, turbo 350 box, 2.92 diff ratio. Warm cam flowed heads, 4 barrell Holley, branches & freeflow exhaust.
Good for 110km/h in first gear.

[Mike N]

What is the load on the rear axle when doing trips? If this is within the vehicle limits I would take the rim failure up with Toyota especially in the light of the low kilometers. No evidence of physical damage or impact tends to point towards a manufacturing defect.

[River Rat]

What is the load on the rear axle when doing trips? If this is within the vehicle limits I would take the rim failure up with Toyota especially in the light of the low kilometers. No evidence of physical damage or impact tends to point towards a manufacturing defect.

I considered this but I suspect that Toyota would point to my non standard suspension upgrade which takes the GVM from 3200kg to 3900kg as the underlying problem and wash their hands of any warranty claim. My weighbridge test showed 1200kg front and 1700kg rear with another 100kg front and 120kg rear to come. All in we don't exceed the specified loads combined or on individual axles. I have subsequently moved my RTT from the canopy to the front cab which is a 90kg shift.

My take on this is not so much about the cost of the failed rim but more about understanding the underlying cause so that I can prevent it reoccurring. I just can't see Toyota engaging in a fault finding exercise for commercial reasons which is a pity.

[Christo Davids]

As the guys mentioned, get a set of Toyota Steel Rims used on the 105 series
you might be able to get a set at places like N1 4x4.

[Mike N]

I considered this but I suspect that Toyota would point to my non standard suspension upgrade which takes the GVM from 3200kg to 3900kg as the underlying problem and wash their hands of any warranty claim. My weighbridge test showed 1200kg front and 1700kg rear with another 100kg front and 120kg rear to come. All in we don't exceed the specified loads combined or on individual axles. I have subsequently moved my RTT from the canopy to the front cab which is a 90kg shift.

My take on this is not so much about the cost of the failed rim but more about understanding the underlying cause so that I can prevent it reoccurring. I just can't see Toyota engaging in a fault finding exercise for commercial reasons which is a pity.

Mmm, that makes it an easy warrenty refusal for Toyota.
For a constant heavily loaded vehicle an inherent manufacturing defect in a rim would cause an expedited crack relatively early and the fatigue is exponentially faster with an increase in loading. Aluminum alloys does not have as a forgiving nature wrt overloading as steel, it does not have a fatigue limit as in steel. So the best option is to go for heavy duty steel wheels with certified load ratings on your vehicle. Allow for at least a 25% reduction in the load rating if the vehicle is often used off-road near the maximum loads.

[River Rat]

Mmm, that makes it an easy warrenty refusal for Toyota.
For a constant heavily loaded vehicle an inherent manufacturing defect in a rim would cause an expedited crack relatively early and the fatigue is exponentially faster with an increase in loading. Aluminum alloys does not have as a forgiving nature wrt overloading as steel, it does not have a fatigue limit as in steel. So the best option is to go for heavy duty steel wheels with certified load ratings on your vehicle. Allow for at least a 25% reduction in the load rating if the vehicle is often used off-road near the maximum loads.

Moving to steelies is my current thinking, it was one of the potential upgrades that I had in mind when I first bought the vehicle but I thought I would give the alloys a chance so in a way it's just the end of an experiment fortunately with no serious consequences. But first I will get the rim repaired as it's bit disconcerting having no spare.

[Christo Davids]

Moving to steelies is my current thinking, it was one of the potential upgrades that I had in mind when I first bought the vehicle but I thought I would give the alloys a chance so in a way it's just the end of an experiment fortunately with no serious consequences. But first I will get the rim repaired as it's bit disconcerting having no spare.

When you buys steel rims, get a full set plus fr the spare as well, so that the spare is on the same rims as the other 4 tyres...

[Disco Smiley]

I have been in the manufacturing of Aluminum wheels for motor industry, for 37 years. That is a stress fracture no doubt. My opinion is to go to the manufacturer and do a warrantee claim and if you fight they might even replace all your rims.

Wheels are casted, X rayed, heat treated machined and painted. With every stage there is quality checks involved and this MUST be documented. There is also a lot of destructive testing done to ensure safety.

We have been involved in warrantee claims before and this helps to improve quality and safety.

If you have a problem report it so the manufacturer can go back and check if there was a problem. It can be a one off but can also be a batch.

PLEASE report this. This is not to nail someone but you might save someone's life.

And I would never trust that wheel even after welding and repairs. You do not know if the wheel has other defects.

[Disco Smiley]

I considered this but I suspect that Toyota would point to my non standard suspension upgrade which takes the GVM from 3200kg to 3900kg as the underlying problem and wash their hands of any warranty claim. My weighbridge test showed 1200kg front and 1700kg rear with another 100kg front and 120kg rear to come. All in we don't exceed the specified loads combined or on individual axles. I have subsequently moved my RTT from the canopy to the front cab which is a 90kg shift.

My take on this is not so much about the cost of the failed rim but more about understanding the underlying cause so that I can prevent it reoccurring. I just can't see Toyota engaging in a fault finding exercise for commercial reasons which is a pity.

Toyota will not do fault finding. They will refer back to the manufacturer to do investigation. If you look on the inside the wheel must have the name of the manufacturer, cast and heat treatment date stamp and on the paint somewhere the time and date of paint. All off this is requirements.

[faniedup]

Toyota will not do fault finding. They will refer back to the manufacturer to do investigation. If you look on the inside the wheel must have the name of the manufacturer, cast and heat treatment date stamp and on the paint somewhere the time and date of paint. All off this is requirements.

I would have thought that the rims on 4x4 vehicles would be forged rather than cast?

[grips]

Mmm, that makes it an easy warrenty refusal for Toyota.
For a constant heavily loaded vehicle an inherent manufacturing defect in a rim would cause an expedited crack relatively early and the fatigue is exponentially faster with an increase in loading. Aluminum alloys does not have as a forgiving nature wrt overloading as steel, it does not have a fatigue limit as in steel. So the best option is to go for heavy duty steel wheels with certified load ratings on your vehicle. Allow for at least a 25% reduction in the load rating if the vehicle is often used off-road near the maximum loads.

Don`t think overloading is a problem the same rims are being used on the 79 SC rated to carry 1.6T

[Andre Bos]

It's the first time I hear of a 79 series rim crack.

Me too

[Andre Bos]

It is the first time ever that I have seen this on an OE Cruiser rim*(7 cruisers over the last 22 years). I have changed back to the OE rims after the aftermarket ones did this, one crack on the inside on one wheel and 2 cracks also on the inside on another wheel. My cruiser also weights 4 tones. The OE rims is readily available and cheap, so I suggest get another set. I run 315x75x16 tyres.

[Gajac]

I was hoping someone would say that and I cannot recall hearing anything similar either which makes this event rather perplexing.

I recall a 79 owner up in the Barotse stating the OE Cruiser mags were rubbish and would require 2 spares for a trip to Lusaka.
He converted to steelies

[Disco Smiley]

I would have thought that the rims on 4x4 vehicles would be forged rather than cast?

Very few wheels are forged. Castings are the general rule. The industry is always looking at ways to save weight and make wheels cheaper and lighter. When I started making wheels the average thickness of rims was 5 to 6 mm.

Now we have wheels that is 2.5mm thick sections.. These wheels are machined to these thin sections and tested. For normal road cars this is OK. All tests showed the wheels are within safety limits.
The problem I have with this is the computer says it is good. The computer does not drive on dirt roads, potholes and corrugations nor with a load.

Another way is making the wheels with flow forming. This is almost as strong as forging. The problem with this is the cost is higher. The motor industry does not want to pay for this for normal everyday high volume cars. This is done for AMG, and other high end sports cars.

If, at any time you have a problem, even with aftermarket wheels please report this. The feedback will go back to the manufacturer in 90% of the cases and will help to improve.

[River Rat]

Popped around to my Toyota dealer to put in a warranty claim. They did not take possession of the rim but took a whole lot of pictures, I filled out a claim form and they told me that they will be in touch. I was hoping for a more detailed interaction and perhaps there's more to follow but right now it's just a paper chase. Not sure that I will get the detailed answer I was looking for other than this is the first cracked rim that they have seen.

[Disco Smiley]

Popped around to my Toyota dealer to put in a warranty claim. They did not take possession of the rim but took a whole lot of pictures, I filled out a claim form and they told me that they will be in touch. I was hoping for a more detailed interaction and perhaps there's more to follow but right now it's just a paper chase. Not sure that I will get the detailed answer I was looking for other than this is the first cracked rim that they have seen.

If possible please send me photos of the numbers and other info on the back of the wheel. I will be able to tell you the manufacturer, date and country of origin.

You can PM me if you want.

[River Rat]

If possible please send me photos of the numbers and other info on the back of the wheel. I will be able to tell you the manufacturer, date and country of origin.

You can PM me if you want.

Will do thanks, in the meantime I have been asked to drop the rim off with Toyota. It seems that a more sensible approach is unwinding.

[Andre N]

While we are on the topic of 105GX steelies. One of the best looking and strongest rims to ever be made.

Way back when I still had my 105 I always kept a steady supply of rims on hand and somewhere along the line I also ended up with an accident damaged one.

So one time with a Braai that got "Hoe later hoe kwater" the old Topic of Alloys vs Steelies came up, with the general consensus being a Steely is better since you can beat it straight in case you hit a stump/rock/barrier when out in the bush.

So there we were, Topped up Rum glasses in hand, 105 Rim on the ground and everyone had a turn to try and inflict some sort of movement on that Rim.
4 Pounder barely dinged it. Laying into it with a 16 Pounder had some results but nothing earth shattering.

We came to 2 conclusions that night.
1) No way in Hell are your "repairing" one of those rims out in the bush.
2) If you do somehow manage to damage one of those Rims, you most probably have other bigger issues to worry about.