Trip Report. Namibia- June 2024

[umfaan]

Good evening community members.

I have just returned from a one month solo trip to Namibia. Focus this time was on the western region starting at the Orange River and heading all the way up to the Kunene. As I have learnt so much from other members over the years, who have kindly sent in comprehensive trip reports, I thought I would give back a bit and do the same. It is rather long, so please bear with me, as I will be adding pages as I get them edited.

The vehicle I had, was a fully equipped 2.8 GD6 Hilux. It had the RTT as well as Engle fridge and kitchen system. I rented it from a 4x4 company out of Cape Town. It behaved flawlessly and I am happy to say- even with all the rock gardens I went through and the endless dirt roads of Namibia- I did not have a puncture the entire time. For that- I am thankful!

I have done Namibia a few times now- but even still - one forgets just how big this country is. Even though I focused my time in one half of the country (the western side) and had a month- it still was not enough time.

Day One.
Atlantis - Maskam Guest Farm. Vanrhynsdorp
I know this to be one of the popular stops for forum members, heading up to Namibia. Indeed it did not disappoint. Great cottages, and an interesting introduction to the Namaqualand region. Ancarene was a great host. Maskam is actually a Rooibos farm, with most of the production grown for the export market. It is a hard scrabble life here- so I would imagine that the money generated from the self catering accommodations is well appreciated. The cottages are perfect for an overnight stay. Rooms are spotless. I highly recommend this as a stop. Also don't forget this area of Namaqualand gets, absolutely awash in daisies in June and July. The transformation must be quite something to see...from the semi arid desert that it was, when I was there.


Day Two.
Goegap Nature Reserve.
This cute little nature reserve just outside Springbok is a bit off the main road for a quick overnight. As there are so many walks and 4x4 trails and things to do in the nature reserve- perhaps spending two nights here, would have been a better idea. The campsites are set up against some huge boulders....visited by numerous dassies and cliff swallows. The location is very pretty - and the ablutions in very good shape. For those like me who don't pre book- please note that the offices at the main gate do close at 4 PM daily.




Day Three.
Amanzi Trails Campsite. Orange River. Namibia
Oh boy was my information dated on the meat restrictions coming in to Namibia! Apparently as of writing- no meat at all is allowed in country from South Africa (my research- had it that you were allowed 2.5Kg per person). I did have to sweet talk my way out of a jamb on that- which I managed to do.


My first stop in Namibia was at Amanzi Trails Campsite...which is about 8-10 kilometres, from the Engen in Noordoewer- snuggly tucked up against the beautiful Orange River. The camps sites are huge- all face the river and the campground in general is beautifully shaded throughout. No doubt this place does get busy with big groups, especially when the river rafting season starts- but for June- I was one of only two - in camp.


Really superb campsite, even if the Egyptian Geese do wake you up early every morning, each bird seemingly trying to out call the other, as they prepare to head off in their hundreds, to their feeding grounds- wherever that may be.


The camp has a fence post on the lawn with the various flood levels recorded over the past twenty odd years. By my guestimate- some of the floods had raised the river at least 30 feet above normal. Just incredible to think what volume of water was needed to raise that river so high! Of course each time the river floods- these camp sites are destroyed and the camp staff have to start again with yet another rebuild!




Day Five.
Klein Aus Vista
One of my absolute favorite drives was heading west on the C13 road to Aussenkehr. I have read a good deal about this drive on the 4x4 forum, and it did not disappoint. The scenery is dramatic with the beautiful Orange River bringing lovely color to this arid landscape.


As you pass Aussenkehr, you enter the very tight canyonlands....with the road wedged tightly between the mountains and the river. This is a must do drive for anyone in the area.


Once you pass by Rosh Pinah- the scenery becomes a lot less dramatic en route to Klein Aus Vista. I know a few folks on the 4x4 forum try and avoid places like Klein Aus- but for me- these sort of lodges are welcoming little oasis in a harsh desert. I actually look forward to time out of the RTT and the ease of self catering accommodations, or spoiling ones self, with a restaurant prepared meal.


At Klein Aus Vista, I was fortunate in being offered the sole use of the 12 bed Geisterschlucht Cabin. Ah pure heaven. Far, far away from the main Klein Aus Vista Lodge- this cabin and its location were a delight. True privacy ...secreted away, in its very own valley. The views and the scenery here are breath taking. When you reach Klein Aus, you really do feel like you have arrived in the Namib Desert. Geisterschlucht, means Ghost Canyon. The story go's, that in the early 1900's, two diamond thieves were chased here, by the local police. As in any good western, a gun fight broke out. Both smugglers were killed, and it is indeed their ghosts that live on here. The Hudson vehicle they were in, is still here...rusted but very much intact, some 116 years later.




Day Six.
Luderitz and Kolmanskop
The cold front that was to follow me for the next 10 to 14 days, arrived this morning. Getting out for the drive to Luderitz, I was met by a cold fog that crept in from the Atlantic Ocean. With the fog came the cold wind. It was not the most ideal day to visit Luderitz, but, since I was here- and Kolmanskop was an absolute must for me- I ventured off to get some lunch, refuel and figure out the issues with my cell phone sim card. Lüderitz was, as I thought it would be. Not really my sort of town to visit. I prefer the warmer beaches - or at the very least- ones that don't get continually hammered by the cold on shore winds of the Atlantic. Certainly though - it works well for refuels of supplies and has, seemingly everything that you need for the road.


Kolmanskop was a delight. Coming from a highly regulated country like the United States- it was so refreshingly Africa, to be able to stumble around this fascinating place- unhindered by rules and restrictions. I was able to walk anywhere- including climbing up rickety staircases to the second floor of what must have been the houses for the more affluent townsfolks. What a story this place has; and for photographers, this is real camera candy. Even though the day was dull and windy- photos still were keepers...I can highly recommend a visit. Hopefully you have better luck with the weather- but even if you don't- its a must stop ...


Day Seven.
Tirasberg
Leaving Klein Aus- I headed north up the C13 and with my mind set on trying one of the camping options on the famed D707. "The Namibian Garden Route". Besides the beauty of the Tirasberg- I was amazed at just how many mountains there were in this area. For the next six days, I was never out of site of one or other of the local mountain ranges. Growing up just outside Pietermaritzburg- in KwaZulu Natal- the folded mountain ranges found in the area, reminded me a lot of the Drakensberg.


Some of the suggested overnights were closed for the season, but I did find Ranch Khoimassis welcoming campers in, off the D707. As it turns out- Khoimassis has a driveway that is some 23 kilometers long and takes over an hour. You have to love this sort of thing. For me, these experiences are what make these adventures so special.

I was met at the main ranch by Anke, a rather upright, no nonsense woman of German descent. I learned quickly to check my stereotyping at the door when I learned that Anke actually grew up in Cape Town - of all places. She is a Cape Town girl. Tough as all get out. She and her husband decided to move to this impossibly remote area to make a go of it. And make a go of it; they have. This is semi arid, harsh, desert..with not much to be seen but the odd ostrich and gemsbok...and yet when you get to Ranch Koimassis it is an absolute buzz of activity. Seemingly they farm everything with two or four legs in an area no bigger then five acres. This is a super intensive operation. Not only do they breed for themselves- but they also breed to sell, including Bengal Cats- of all things. I did want to ask Anke how they were able to source protein and energy for their Noahs Ark- but never got the opportunity.

The campground at Khoimassis, was one of my favorites of the whole trip. Again- I was the only one there- which was fine by me. There are four sites- each suitably far away from the next and all set in to massive granite kopjes. Having the huge boulders as the backdrop really gave the camp charm. The ablutions were exceptionally clean and their rock walls blended in with the surrounds- perfectly. What a find this place was!


I was here for two nights and spent the full day in camp, hiking up the mountains behind the camp. When Anke and her husband first arrived here- it was up these mountain slopes that they sourced the water for the new farm. The hikes are a bit of a scramble, but the views from the top of the mountain on to the valley floor below, make the effort worthwhile.

[AlexP]

[QUOTE=umfaan;5259838]Good evening community members.

I have just returned from a one month solo trip to Namibia. Focus this time was on the western region starting at the Orange River and heading all the way up to the Kunene. As I have learnt so much from other members over the years, who have kindly sent in comprehensive trip reports, I thought I would give back a bit and do the same. It is rather long, so please bear with me, as I will be adding pages as I get them edited.

The vehicle I had, was a fully equipped 2.8 GD6 Hilux. It had the RTT as well as Engle fridge and kitchen system. I rented it from a 4x4 company out of Cape Town. It behaved flawlessly and I am happy to say- even with all the rock gardens I went through and the endless dirt roads of Namibia- I did not have a puncture the entire time. For that- I am thankful!

Good morning,

Thanks for the interesting read.
Out of curiosity, what company did you rent the 4x4 from?
I have a good friend flying into Cape Town from overseas, and will be wanting to rent a fully equipped 4x4 for a 3 week trip to KTP in the near future.

[umfaan]

[QUOTE=AlexP;5259839]

Good evening community members.

I have just returned from a one month solo trip to Namibia. Focus this time was on the western region starting at the Orange River and heading all the way up to the Kunene. As I have learnt so much from other members over the years, who have kindly sent in comprehensive trip reports, I thought I would give back a bit and do the same. It is rather long, so please bear with me, as I will be adding pages as I get them edited.

The vehicle I had, was a fully equipped 2.8 GD6 Hilux. It had the RTT as well as Engle fridge and kitchen system. I rented it from a 4x4 company out of Cape Town. It behaved flawlessly and I am happy to say- even with all the rock gardens I went through and the endless dirt roads of Namibia- I did not have a puncture the entire time. For that- I am thankful!

Good morning,

Thanks for the interesting read.
Out of curiosity, what company did you rent the 4x4 from?
I have a good friend flying into Cape Town from overseas, and will be wanting to rent a fully equipped 4x4 for a 3 week trip to KTP in the near future.

Hi Alex,
I rented from Berg 4x4 out of Atlantis. Pricing reasonable- vehicle in very good condition. Camping equipment was a bit worn out. Their booking system I found to be a little frustrating....and the 18 odd pages of contract- made no bones that I was responsible for everything and anything that happened to the vehicle. A video was taken of the entire vehicle prior to my taking the keys. And on return- they repeated the process. Fortunately I did not even get a scratch on the vehicle- but I would imagine that if anything had gone astray- they would have put full liability on me.

[umfaan]

Day Nine.
NamibRand Family Hideout
This was the only accommodations I had booked in advance, as I had heard that with only three sites, space can be a problem. Leaving Koimassis, I stopped at Betta and got some fuel. I mention this since I had visions of this being a dusty, dingy little stop point with fuel and not much else. This is not the case. It is now a charming little coffee stop with a well stocked little store and restaurant. There is a cute charm to Betta. I did manage to have a piece of apple pie- and then headed on to my overnight.


Namibrand is special. It is a massive, well run, private reserve- some 250 000 hectares in size. As big as it is- with only three campsites- privacy is guaranteed. Each camp has its own ablutions and braai/dining area, all under canvas. The hot water for showers- is from solar- and was working perfectly while I was there.


The rich orange colors of the Namib desert are unlike anything I have seen before (well except for Sossusvlei of course) Unfortunately for me, it was still unseasonally cold...and the wind never let up which did put a damper on my activities while there.


I found the management at NamibRand to be very pleasant to deal with, and very helpful and forthcoming with advice and tips. I loved my two nights here. It is just so different to anything else I experienced,....and to have your very own sand dune outside your back door- is a delight.


Even with the poor weather, I did still manage to do a ten kilometer hike- which was fascinating- through the dunes and the open grasslands below. Birding was so so, but what was surreal, was the manner in which the oryx behaved around you, as a walker. Seemingly they had bigger problems to deal with- like finding water- then to worry about little old me- the hiker. And that was fine by me, as it made for very unusual encounters with what are normally pretty skittish antelope.


Day Eleven.
Windhoek
After two nights at the very special NamibRand- I changed my plans and decided to drive directly to Windhoek to restock and clean up before heading out to the Damaraland. I was also determined to get serious about getting warm. The clothes I had bought with me, were more of the shorts and T shirt variety...and that was not ideal in these frigid temperatures. (One of the photos included here- actually shows the ice on the tops of the dune. So yes- it was cold!)


I was pleasantly surprised by Windhoek. I don't want to draw to deep an opinion on this city, based on the 36 odd hours I spent there- but it really did feel chill. The pace was seemingly a lot less hectic then, say, Cape Town or Johannesburg. I did speak to a few folks (and again don't want to form too hard an opinion here) and they all seemed content with life. I can say that the shopping malls I visited while here, can easily stand up to and- in many cases- embarrass many of the malls we have here in United States. In fact, I was impressed throughout my stay in Namibia, with the infrastructure and the investments being made in road repairs and upgrades. Even in some of the most remote D roads I drove on- I came across road graders working...and bridges being built.


I spent the two nights in Windhoek at two different lodgings. The first was at Urban Camp. To be fair here- it was freezing cold, the night I was there. But, I did come away feeling that - for the price- the tents offered were a bit below expectation. Being that you had shared showers and ablutions- it made the getting in and out of and locking up of the tent each time you left to go to the loo or to shower or to eat- to be tedious.. Also- and I am being picky here- the beds were rock hard. I get that Urban Camp is quirky and some folks like that- but for me- for that price- I did not buy in to the value.


The second night I tried Arebbusch Travel Lodge, which is very close to the Eros Domestic Airport in Windhoek. For an overnight- I really do think management here, have knocked it out the park. When I am just looking for something clean and functional - these are the sort of lodgings that I like. Clearly well run, the rooms are very simple- but neat and tidy. Everything works as expected and there is a buzz of efficiency around the place. It is a big lodge- which some folks wont like- but for me it was perfect. The food was great and the service was efficient and done with a smile. The other big plus of course is that you are just off the main road north- so a very easy and quick ingress and egress. The perfect stop over.


Day Thirteen.
Khorixas
Heading north out of Windhoek, I was guided on to the new A1- which is now a divided highway replacing the old B1. As this road is in the building process, even my information might be dated, but on the day I was driving it, it unfortunately only lasted as far as Okahandja, at which point you are ushered back on to the B1.


The drive from Okahandja to Otjiwarongo to Outjo, is beautiful and reminds me so much of the bushveld found in the Northern Province in South Africa as well as the lowveld. Of course this is the same biome found in those areas, hence the similarity. This is quite a splendid part of Namibia.


I am one to follow advice- so of course I did stop in Outjo at "The Bakery". I was not disappointed- the food here makes for a must stop. Aside from the bakery- there is also a Spar in the same complex making this ideal, for those needing replenishment of supplies and a darn good meal.


Outjo is a busy little town- packed full of tourists heading out to, or coming back from, Etosha. I had no plans to go to Etosha and instead turned west on the C39 to Khorixas. Leaving Outjo on this road, the traffic immediately got quieter. This is a road less traveled - for sure. As it turned out, I managed to make it Khorixas Campsite in plenty of time. Even though the camp grounds itself is a rather drab affair, I found the folks managing for NWR, to be very pleasant and helpful. And any campsite that has hot showers scores an A with me. As in most of the campsites to this point - I was pretty much the only one checked in for the night.


Day Fourteen.
Sout River And Huab River
Today, was day one of my river beds and 4x4 trails days. My first goal was to see if I could navigate the nearby Sout River- which is not 40 Km from the Khorixas Rest Camp on the D 2625. Unfortunately - being as I was on my own- my appetite for high adventure was tempered somewhat. I started the trail- planning on heading west with the river to meet up with the Upper Huab Trail. Judging by the lack of tracks in the river bed though- this trail had not been used at all, of late.


With my risk tolerance at a low level- and the vehicle already engaged in 2 LO- I very quickly decided to stop with the efforts. Fortunately, there is a lot of mining activity in the area, so finding a road to get out of the river- is easy- as there are numerous unmarked roads, criss crossing the area.


Feeling a bit deflated, I then headed on to C39 to meet up with the Upper Huab Trail just outside Vrede. This is fantastic country to drive- with vistas a plenty and mountains everywhere. Very remote- but very beautiful. Once the road met the dry Huab, I headed up stream, in the direction of the notorious marsh region. Since it had not rained for quite some time, I was hoping that I might get lucky and find the marsh dry enough to navigate. In hindsight, I think of all the rivers I did- the Huab was my favorite- and the trail to the marsh- in effect going upstream- was some of the prettiest. Unfortunately, after about eight kilometres of exciting driving, I came across the marsh that was still way too marshy for me to cross. But even though I could not go further- just the 15km round trip was well worth the time and effort.


Staying with the Huab- I went south from the C39- which proved to be a great move. For those that don't know- the Huab is a lovely river system that seemingly, goes on for ever and ever- becoming the Desolation Valley 4x4 Trail and eventually finding its way out to the Skeleton Coast. For this evening, I primitive camped in the river. This was all that I imagined it to be. I love driving these ephemeral rivers. There is a stark beauty to all of them and when you camp out here, it feels truly wild and you are under no illusions that you are utterly alone.

[umfaan]

Day Fifteen.
Palmwag
After the delightful evening of primitive camping- I continued on with the Huab for another 10 kilometres, before getting out of the river just as it officially becomes the Desolation Valley Trail. The route out was incredibly slow- with rock fields a plenty. What followed was a continuous three hours of 2 lo - 10 km/h crawl. The track I followed is on Tracks 4 Africa, and brings you right past Wilderness Damaraland Camp. The views as you climb out of the river bed- are simply incredible and the landscape quite unlike anything I have ever seen before. Just fantastic.


After my long morning of boulder hopping- we got back on to the C39 and made it with time to spare- to my perennial favorite camp- Palmwag Lodge.


For me, Palmwag is this wonderfully green oasis in a really red rock desert. I have never been disappointed in camping here. The campsites each have their own private shower/bathroom and kitchen facilities. They are close together- about 18 in total- but the layout of the campsites and the privacy offered by the bushes between sites, really goes a long way to make each campsite feel private. Palmwag Lodge itself also has a really nice restaurant- and green landscaped lawn around that inviting swimming pool. For the birders- this is a great camp to see Rosy Faced Lovebirds and Groundscraper Thrush.


Day Sixteen.
Palmwag Concession
This is where things really started getting interesting as I ventured off to complete the entire Palmwag trail- from the lodge all the way to the Hoanib River. The distance is some 138 km and maybe a bit more if you count parts of the Hoanib valley in to it. I had- many years ago- dipped my toes in to the trail- with nothing more then a 1998 Land Rover Discovery of mine and a map I got from the lodge when I signed in. That was about it. We barely broke the surface of the trail back then. This time I was in reliable equipment, satellite navigation system, a library full of maps and I also had a "in Reach" satellite texting system...which was comforting.


Tracks 4 Africa had the drive time to do the entire trail, at about 7 odd hours. I am not sure how that is calculated and whether someone has actually done it that quickly. For me, my speed never once went over 12 km an hour for 7 odd hours on the first day. It is a very gnarly trail- and I am so thankful to have had brand new tires on the vehicle..as I never had an issue the entire way - not even a slow leak. The red volcanic rock landscape with its dragon teeth edges made for rough going. What was also challenging, was the endless dry river beds one crosses on the trail. Each one requiring some technical thought and careful driving.


When I stopped for the night- my odometer showed I had done about 75 kilometers for the day. I managed to find a wonderful dry river bed with a seam of green vegetation running through it that provided a perfect place to set up camp.


Day Seventeen
Hoanib Valley
I was awoken at 4.30 AM to howling gale force winds, and the RTT bending and buckling with each gust. I hurriedly jumped out of the tent- and pulled it closed to prevent further damage. Unfortunately this meant sleeping for two or three hours in the front seat of the bakkie...But, sleep I did.


The start of the second day was much the same as the first; but, as I got closer to the Hoanib River- my speed gradually picked up to 15 km an hour. Nothing more. In the two days I drove the trail- I did not see another vehicle. I liken this feeling of absolute remoteness to the feeling I had while driving in Makgadikgadi. I would say this is perhaps even more remote- in that there is absolutely no one else out here- unlike the pans.


Approaching the Mudorib River, the beauty of this area really was in full display. Wow what a drive this was becoming. The Mudorib- is a tributary to the much bigger Hoanib- but I loved its tight gorge and steep cliffs. I did not see any animals in the Mudorib- but that did not matter- that was a beautiful river.


When I arrived at the confluence of the Mudorib and the Hoanib, almost immediately everything changed. The Hoanib is a very big river- obviously very dry now- but it is a good half to three quarters of a kilometer wide in places. The changes were also found in the fauna. I now started seeing elephant, giraffe and springbok. Having not seen an elephant to this point- this was a welcome site. The driving (when I was there at least) was not particularly hard- and tracks are numerous as many operators work this river, daily. That also means if anything happens- you would not need to wait long for help to arrive...which is comforting when you are running solo.


My overnight this evening was Elephant Song Community Camp. What a pleasant surprise this camped turned out to be. I had visions of something super plain and rudimentary. Quite the contrary. Elephant Song Campsite moved to its new location, some five years ago. The new camp only has four campsites-each with private bathrooms and kitchens and all overlooking a productive part of the riverbed below. And again- any camp that has hot showers- scores A with me. Not only does Elephant Song have hot water (with a donkey boiler) it also has wifi! This is a special little place. I chatted to a few campers who come here every year. They told me that this camp is known for having consistently good elephant activity- in season. Indeed when I was there- the elephant were in view on the river bed below the entire evening.


Day Eighteen.
Kunene River
Heading out of the Hoanib- the tracks I was trying to follow, were getting ever more confusing. This area is heavily trafficked, so tracks crisscross everywhere and with the river being so wide, options are numerous. Needless to say I did get in a bit of a pickle as I eventually did chose the wrong tracks to follow which ended up with me having to get out of some really soft sand and tricky gradients. This is to be expected- and finding your way out, is part of the adventure of course.


My goal today was to get to Ruacana and the Kunene River Lodge. I took the C43 north to Opuwo. Like so many of these C roads- the landscapes were beautiful. This particular drive includes a few small mountain passes, all dotted with massive red granite boulders and baobabs. It felt like I was driving in the Matopos of Zimbabwe. Traffic is very light and the road very good.


I have been to Opuwo a few times and I always say it is the melting pot of two cultures. Here you will likely see both the Herero woman in their traditional dress as well as the Himba woman with their distinctive ochre colored skin and customary calfskin skirts, shopping side by side. Opuwo is a buzzing town, with two large supermarkets and one or two decent coffee shops to grab a quick bite.


Leaving Opuwo- my wheels finally touched blacktop (tarmac) for the first time in two weeks. Woop woop!. An exhilarating experience to see what 120 KM/H felt like again. I was living large.


I did not stop in the town of Ruacana as the sun was starting to throw long shadows and I had enough diesel. The Ruacana region is beautiful- and the views in to Angola from the top of the numerous vantage points on the D3700, are distinctly Africa. Of course it was now back to dirt roads...which was fine by me.. The D 3700 from Ruacana to Kunene River Lodge is in fairly good condition. Some of the road does require use of 1st and 2nd gear on the steepish hill climbs..but by and large its an easy drive. It always amazes me- when I see roads like this- to think that supply trucks are doing the exact same thing, driving the exact same roads- while carrying our fresh milk, green beans, beers and eggs to our lodges and camps. Real heroic stuff!


Kunene River Lodge was a bit of a let down- to tell you the truth. I was expecting big things- with all the glowing reports I had read, on this forum. To be fair on the lodge- it was out of season- so there was a lot of repairs and rebuilds. Furniture was covered for the season and it really did feel like they were not quite ready for prime time. Everyone was pleasant though- just a bit unfocused. I am sure in high season- it is all hands on deck.


The campsites at Kunene River Lodge are very nice. The camp is built under wonderful huge Ebony and Fig trees, with green grass and tropical gardens all around. Very pretty. The river view in front of the camp itself, was a bit limited in beauty as it is just deep moving water with nothing dramatic or eye catching to see.


On a personal birders note- I was there in mid June- and birding was just OK. The camp ground was swamped by Grey Louries and Long Tailed Glossy Starlings, but very little else. Again in high summer- I bet this area pumps with bird!




Day Twenty.
Epupa Falls
Leaving Kunene River Lodge, I headed west on the D 3700 before deciding to take the D3701 to the C43 to Okangwati and on to Epupa Falls that way. Epupa Falls has always been one of those places you hear about but never think you will actually get to. Here was my opportunity! In hindsight I could indeed have just stayed on the D 3700 all the way to Epupa (following the Kunene the whole way). This road is apparently in very good condition now and is well maintained- even after the rains. This was news to me! Good to know for next time.


The drive on the D3703 turned out to be quite the adventure. These roads are very remote of course, so when you find a vehicle in need of help- you would do well to assist- as the likelihood of any other vehicles coming by to help, is slim. Driving up one of the many hills I did come across a Hilux bakkie on the side of the road. The bak was full of fat tail sheep and the trailer being towed had three fat cows in it. Add to that- there were at least ten locals, clearly also catching a ride. They had a flat tire and....they did not have a jack. It was an easy assist for me and in no time they were on there way to Ruacana.


My adventures continued when I reached the town of Okangwati. I did have a 25 litre jerry can of diesel with me- but even still- knowing there was no diesel in Epupa- my range was going to be tight. Okangwati is a dusty little town with two traffic stop signs. At the first I asked a local if there was diesel and she said "no diesel". Fine I thought- we will just have to go easy on the gas pedal. However by the time I reached the second stop street- someone was waving me down. Bush telegraph is still working apparently- though now it is Whatsapp.
"Do you want diesel?"
"Umm - yes if you have"
"Please go up the hill and Donis will help you."


Donis is the local, cheerful, diesel entrepreneur. She asked how much I wanted. I said 25 litres should be just fine. She disappeared for a minute and returned with her daughter and 5 x 5l plastic Oros jugs of diesel. Money was exchanged- diesel was poured- and I was on my way. Ah Africa!


Epupa River Lodge was in a perfect location and my camp site was the perfect site. I could have thrown a tomato from my tent and it would have gone over the falls. I was that close. I loved this place. The scenery is spectacular. There are two or three main falls and numerous cataract falls...all weaving between baobab filled islands and massive granite rocks. Quite splendid. The restaurant/pub is on the second floor of the communal area with the deck overlooking the falls.


I spent two nights here- walking during the day, to catch the sunsets and visiting Himba villages. The evenings were spent on that deck, downing ice cold Windhoek Lagers and soaking in that jaw dropping view. No doubt this was to be one of my cherished memories of the trip.


Day Twenty Two.
Palmwag
I was a long way from South Africa at this point, so it was time to slowly start heading back. I did double back (which I normally do not like doing) via Opuwo and Sesfontein and on to Palmwag.


I do enjoy my own company, but from time to time it is always fun to meet others on my travels. While at Palmwag, I met some fascinating pioneering South Africans, Celeste and Benjamin Du Preez, who are making a go of it- farming on the Zambezi just outside of Sesheke- Zambia. I am always in awe of people who have that much believe and fortitude that they can sell everything and leave family and friends behind and venture in to the unknown. Hearing their stories of all they have endured to get here- is a book all on its own.

[mikeml]

Thanks for a well written trip report, Umfaan. (You are probably the only Umfaan in the USA - I also grew up outside Pmb)

You have a great photographic eye and loved seeing some pictures of some of my favourite places an Nam was special. I look forward to your trip reports back south.

[umfaan]

Thanks for a well written trip report, Umfaan. (You are probably the only Umfaan in the USA - I also grew up outside Pmb)

You have a great photographic eye and loved seeing some pictures of some of my favourite places an Nam was special. I look forward to your trip reports back south.

Thanks Mike. Appreciate the positive vibes....

[Ian.McM]

Also looking forward to the rest of your trip.

[AfriqueDS]

thnx for a wonderful trip report Umfaan.
My wife and I did a very similar trip in 2019 with a Syncro Kombi. (was our 4th trip to NAm) Namibia is just so beautiful.
Our next trip will hopefully throgh Nam into Angola,

Looking forward to the rest of your report.

[umfaan]

Day Twenty Three.
Swakopmund
Another must do on my ever shortening list- was to drive the Skeleton Coast. And as with so many of my mornings and days in Namibia- the wind was blowing something fierce when I woke up. Unfortunately, the closer I got to the Atlantic Coast- the harder it blew. My route took me via Springbokwasser and Terrace Bay. Interesting for me- was that for a lot of the drive towards the coast- the "Red Line" fence was my constant companion. This fence, built back in the early 1960's has had many purposes, both political and economic- however currently its perceived purpose, is to control the spread of Foot And Mouth Disease. Whether it actually does or not is to be argued. But while Namibia has its enormous export contracts on beef production- it will remain, since that is a requirement for European markets.


As with all these sort of adventures- there are always things that surprise you in a good way and then there are things that don't live up to the hype. For me- Skeleton Coast was a disappointment. In my mind I had visions of lovely desert dunes, rolling on in their golden glory, for hundreds of kilometres-but alas, someone had vacuumed up all the sand. The drive from Terrace Bay to Swakopmund is a long (380km) windswept salt road.... And yes there are shipwrecks, but most are a good ways off the main salt road. Unfortunately with me trying to make it all the way to Swakopmund- I did not have the luxury of time on my side. I did see three of the wrecks- but none were worth taking the camera out for.


Thanks to the 4x4 Community here, Alto Brucke was an easy choice for my stay in Swakopmund. Again, I love any campsite that offers private sites...and Alto Brucke is just that. Very clean and modern, with each site (approximately 18 in total) on its own green grass patch. With it being at the end of the road and in its own private cul de sac this was a perfect base for me.


Much like Windhoek, there is a felling of quiet contentment amongst the local folks here in Swakopmund. There is nothing ostentatious here, but rather a nice understated charm. There are plenty restaurants and coffee shops and brew pubs...and the German cuisine is found everywhere- which I am a big fan of.


I was so deliciously content here that I stayed for two nights. That gave me a full day to explore Swakopmund on foot. There is plenty of beach front to walk...and I really was in need of the exercise after three weeks of sitting in a car and doing nothing more then driving and eating....It was a great feeling to stretch legs and get the heart rate lifting just a little.


Day Twenty Five.
Mariental
This was to be a day when not booking campsites in advance, was to make things a bit more challenging. The first 60 kilometres out of Swakopmund, the C14 is in very good condition and tarring is clearly under away. At the 60 mark, the road is still OK but turns to dirt with some of the worst dust I encountered on the entire trip. This is a very busy stretch of Namibian road being that it is the main road from Sesriem/ Sossusvlei to Swakopmund. Some of the mountain passes here are special including The Kuiseb Pass which is a very dramatic drive- and one I enjoyed thoroughly.


I timed my day perfectly, arriving at Sesriem for an early lunch. And yes, I did try the apple pie at Mcgregors Bakers, and yes I can say it is absolutely worth the stop! I did notice for the first time that traffic was definitely picking up from vehicles with South African number plates. It turns out it was the first week of the June holidays, so that explains the sudden changes. This increase in tourists was to prove an issue for me.


I arrived in Mariental late in the afternoon and went to check for space at River Chalets. Nope- no sites available. The management here was super helpful though and allowed me to park on the day use picnic area- which was fine by me. (Rather that then go on a wing and prayer to find something elsewhere). This is always the beauty of self sufficient camping. Security aside- it really does not matter where you camp.


The River Chalets are quite fine and even though I did not use them- the lay out of the "kraals" which were the private campsites, looked very nice indeed. There were other campsites as well that had shared ablutions. The only criticism is that this campground is very close to the B1. It was a rough night of sleep, with trucks- passing by, the whole night long. If this sort of thing does not bother you- you will be just fine. I did push on early the next day to make it to the border- which was a pity, as the adjoining Padstal looked to be very popular for the evening and breakfast crowd, so I am betting the food is darn good.


Day Twenty Six.
Springbok
This time, I had no drama getting through the border, and easily made it to Springbok in the mid afternoon. And here I had another challenging evening of finding campsites. My mistake here was trying something other then Goegap Nature Reserve. Unfortunately both the campsites I tried (Namastat and Springbok Caravan Park), were really run down. I have stayed at Springbok Caravan Park on a few occasions on previous trips, but it has clearly seen better days.


Running out of time and realizing Goegap was closed (they close at 4 pm remember!),I eventually drove back to Okiep and stayed at the Okiep Hotel...which was quite fine. This is a cute little country hotel, that seems to be tenaciously holding on to stay alive. The rooms were very clean, and the food surprisingly good. These little country hotels are seemingly harder and harder to find in South Africa's new economy.


Day Twenty Seven
Cederberg
Today was to be another one of those wonderful surprise days we have from time to time when driving in Africa. Seeing as I did have a day and a night on hand before the vehicle needed to be returned, I decided to add a night in the Cederberg Mountains. I have always been fascinated by this area- but seemingly I am always driving by- en route to somewhere- and never stopping.


This time I took the road out of Clanwilliam, using the R364, via Rocklands and Pakhuis Pass. It was splendid...and only got better as I continued past Bushmanskloof Resort and on to the little hamlet of Wuppertal. No doubt many here no the story about this village. Back in the day the shoe factory here was one of the biggest suppliers of veldskoens to the local South African market. They still produce shoes here- but nowhere near the same scale as before. Unfortunately this was also where the wildfire swept through in 2018- destroying many of the houses and buildings in the surrounding areas. It has been rebuilt since then but the memories do remain.


After some thought and asking some locals in the village, I decided to take on the Eselbank Pass, which climbs directly out of town and up to the village of Eselbank. Yikes- it turned out to be a bit of a nail biter. Even though it is concrete almost the entire way up- the surface is understandably torn up in parts and is extremely narrow. My biggest fear was that that I would encounter a vehicle coming down the pass. If that had happened I am really not sure what we would have done- as there was little to no way to get two vehicles to pass alongside each other. Fortunately nothing like that happened- and the drive up turned out to be epic. And as steep and as somewhat technical as it was- I never did engage 4H. The concrete offered plenty grip - even when broken up.


For me the fascination was getting to Eselbank and finding a thriving community up there. To get to Eselbank is challenging from either side. From Wuppertal that pass is a no no in a two wheel drive vehicle, and from the Citrusdal side- which you would have to do- it is still a long tortuous drive and not for vehicles without high clearance. And yet for all that- this was a thriving little community- managing to function in an area where service and supplies must be extremely difficult to deliver.


The mountain drive out of Eselbank was awash with wild flowers amongst huge granite boulders and high mountain traverses. My camera never stopped shooting. What a joy of an area to drive...and so,so remote...Perhaps that makes the experience even sweeter.


The silly grin on my face did not abate when I arrived at Cederberg Park - which for me- was one of my very favorite campsites on the whole trip. Nestled in its very own Oak tree lined valley along the Krom Rivier- the view looking down on to the camping ground just oozes peace and tranquility. What a beautiful place. Cederberg Park actually has a very decent restaurant here as well as brewery. For anyone to make a go of running a business in an area as remote and inaccessible as this (much like Die Hel in the Eastern Cape) - my hats off to them. Quite incredible.


The campsites at Cederberg Park are all under the shade of the large oaks and are all sufficiently far apart. Each has its own private kitchen area as well as shower and toilets. (That is something that I see more often now. There are far more campsites now with private sites...Seemingly the days of shared ablutions and shared wash areas is becoming a thing of the past).


If and when I come back to The Cederberg- I will definitely be spending more time at this campground.


Day Twenty Eight.
Atlantis
Deep in the Cederberg- just getting out to the main roads can prove a challenge with road conditions seemingly changing on a daily basis depending on the previous nights precipitation. This morning was to be much the same. A truck carrying cement had overturned on one of the precarious mountain passes- which resulted in the little dirt road being closed entirely. What was meant to be an easy three hour drive back to Atlantis turned in to a six hour marathon with me having to back track through Op De Berg and on to Ceres. Still, that is a beautiful drive, even if the stop and go's make for some frustration.


All in all, what a special trip this was. Namibia is- without question- the best country in Africa to do overland adventures like this. Yes it does not have the animal concentrations of Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia- but it has so much more to offer. Safety, beautiful scenery, affordability, first class campgrounds and endless miles of grade A roads. And lets not forget that in Namibia, you can get beach, desert, river and bushveld all with one passport stamp. Its all there. All you have to do is drive!

[umfaan]

thnx for a wonderful trip report Umfaan.
My wife and I did a very similar trip in 2019 with a Syncro Kombi. (was our 4th trip to NAm) Namibia is just so beautiful.
Our next trip will hopefully throgh Nam into Angola,

Looking forward to the rest of your report.

It really is a magical place. Even one month was not nearly enough time to cover the areas I did. I wish I had done more Namib Naukluft- and if I had even more time I would have definitely done the Grootfontein- Gobabis area...But that will be for next time!

[AlexP]

I thoroughly enjoyed reading this trip report.
You write well, and between the words and the photos, one becomes a part of the story.
Thank you.

[umfaan]

I thoroughly enjoyed reading this trip report.
You write well, and between the words and the photos, one becomes a part of the story.
Thank you.

Thanks Alex. I have gained so much from this community..I thought it only fair to give back.. Hopefully somebody learns something from my experiences

[SANZ]

Thanks for the informative TR. We are a few weeks behind you. We had rain as we exited the 23 km from Koimasis Ranch back to the D707 and recognised Juniper Camp in Namibrand.
Currently enjoying Swakop.
SANZ

[Merwe Erasmus]

Thanks Umfaan, a very good report supported by even better photos.