Kenya 2023 - a trip report

[apfac]

Last October we visited Kenya for a second time. After our maiden voyage in 2018 we ought to return to this beautiful country as we had barely scratched its surface. This time we pretended to explore the northern part.

Emirates flew us from Lisbon to Nairobi via Dubai, in less than 16hrs, which was appropriate. For the first time we glimpsed from above, the intangible Socotra Island, while approaching the African Horn. Coincidence or not “Born Free” was available for viewing during the flight, which suited us timely.

Travelling to Kenya requires a Visa that is now only​ achievable by applying through the e-citizen platform. This is a governmental digital platform from which every citizen, either Kenyan or Non-Kenyan/ visitor establishes an account, applies and pays for governmental services, including the fees charged by the Kenyan Wildlife Services (KWS). The process of registration, service application and payment is simple and straight forward. Visas were granted within 48-72 hours, and we were notified once the decision was taken.

Pertaining to the governmental KWS (Kenya Wildlife Services), all the parks explored and run by KWS now require an online application and payment though e-citizen. No physical payment (being either cash, card or Mpesa) can be done at any gate. One just shows proof of payment at the gate and the process is smooth. Nevertheless, as the process is now being implemented, there were a few queues at the gates, with people being tutored on the procedures, or last minute guests trying to pay their fees. We just managed to go up front, show proof of payment, and off we went, straight in.



Punda - the car


Renting a reliable and well equipped overlanding vehicle in East Africa is not a easy task, and often price does not necessarily mean a favourable outcome. Fortunately, and apparently there are a few more options for hiring in Kenya then before.

We had previously hired from RTA, but after our previous experience (and perceiving they may have not changed for the better after reading several reports), we decided to rent from other company that could possibly be more reliable. During our previous visit to the Mara, we came across this unnamed rented car, which after searching and reading a few reports confirmed later, Intu Africa as the overlanding car rental company. We decided to make contact with them and an agreement was easily reached.


Punda (Swahili for Donkey) - our fully kitted 4,2L Toyota Land Cruiser proved to be completely reliable and efficient. Not the fastest, but a real workhorse indeed.

The car came completely kitted with all the equipment needed for camping and recovery (in our opinion an overkill), including a dual battery system for the 80L fridge that worked faultlessly. Punda came standardly fitted with a clamshell type RTT, easy to assemble and dissemble, spacious and comfortable. The best we have used so far on our travels. In terms of autonomy, the 120 L tank proved enough for our itinerary, as it would give us a range of @900km (13 - 13,5L/100Km). This would be probably be insufficient if we wanted to travel far north to the Jade Sea. But this for now is a no go area for Intu Africa.


The Itinerary


On our first visit we visited the southern most visited parks: Maasai Mara NR, Amboseli NP, and both Tsavos NP: West and East.

This time we wanted to explore the Northern Rift sculpted region and revisit the Mara. Reading “and Miles to go before I sleep”, “West with the night” or “Cocktail hour under the tree of forgetfulness”, and sense personally what attracted early British settlers to the Central Kenyan region was appealing.
We would like to have more time to further explore the string of rift lakes but we limited ourselves itinerary wise to Lake Nakuru and Lake Baringo (a salt and freshwater lake respectively). In contrast to the large open plains of the Mara region, the hilly dry savannah wildlife parks of the North (Samburu/ Buffalo Springs/ Meru) with their endemic species was a magnet as was seeing the majestic silhouette of Mount Kenya while circumventing the mountain accessing those regions. The latter proved to be difficult on the cusp of the rainy season, stubbornly hidden under a thick blanket of clouds.


For this, The Rough Guide to Kenya by Richard Trillo (2016) was essential reading. The Reise Know-How Verlag Kenya Map (1:950 000), T4A maps/ Base Camp/ Google Imagery (cross-matching) were also extremely useful and essential planning tools.


Invaluable information and inspiration was taken from various internet sources, particularly on this forum, and the excellent trip reports by our fellow resident : Wazungu Wawili. Thank you WW. Of course we can not forget the valuable reports done by Caldriver on his Long East African overlanding trip, which richly entertained us while on pandemic lockdown and the always complete and honest accounts of our fellow forumite and friend Ortelius.

We cannot finish this paragraph without paying homage to our most missed member - Dr. Stan Weakley - and his always contemporary Slow Donkey account.


On the terrain, T4A (in a Garmin Montana 610 and Garmin Nuvi 2567 as back up) and the Reise map proved essential, useful and accurate. The app. maps.me was occasionally used.Thus, the following loop circuit took shape: Nairobi - Mara - Nakuru/ Njoro - Lake Baringo - Ngare Ndare Forest - Samburu NR - Meru NP - Nairobi.


The Intended Plan :

1. Nairobi - Jungle Junction - 1N
2. Maasai Mara- Oseki Maasai Mara Camp - 1N
3. Maasai Mara NR - Mara Conservancy - Oloololo Public CS - 5N
4. Njoro/ Kembu Cottages CS - 2N
5. Lake Baringo / Luca’s CS/ Bushbaby CS - 3N
6. Ngare Ndare Forest CS - 2N
7. Samburu NR - Public CS - 3N
8. Meru NP- Bwatherongi PCs - 3N
9. Nairobi NP - Jungle Junction - 1N

Being on the cusp of the rainy season and in El Ninõ year, we just hoped that we could accomplish this itinerary without any major impediments. Once in Kenya (Ngare Ndare) we learned that Kenyans were advised against a heavy and disruptive rainy season, earlier than expected. Indeed we were extremely lucky throughout the entire trip, as we kept dodging the rain as we moved from site to site. As a result, we had to make minor adjustments to the itinerary, spending just one night at Ngare Ndare Forest and moving North earlier, to Samburu (Umoja Campsite).

The car was collected with an ODO reading of 169 830 km and delivered with 172 804 km. In total we travelled 2 974km and spent 392,36 litre of diesel, averaging 13,19 litre/ 100km. The price of diesel was variable, paying lowest at Narok (200,30 KES/l) and highest at Keekorok (220,00 KES/l).

[apfac]

1. Nairobi

Arriving timely at JKIA, it took us almost two hours to go over all the border formalities - including the time consuming passport control and luggage screening. After exchanging some money to local currency (KES), we finally managed to get out and meet our transfer which was desperately waiting for us pondering if we had arrived.

We were immediately driven to Intu Africa premises where a complete and extended car delivery took place. By the time we finished our introduction to Punda, the afternoon has passed and dusk had fallen.
We had to postpone our supply shopping spree for the following morning before leaving to the Mara.

We aimed straight to Jungle Junction where Chris was waiting for us. The drive was done already in the dark. Reaching JJ’s was like being at home away from home and we went straight to dinner which has been arranged previously. A room had been booked for the night, and after a long travelling day and a deserved shower, we got to bed early.

In the wake of a good night sleep and before breakfast we tried to organise the car the best as possible.A delicious and simple meal of toast, eggs and good arabica coffee was savoured prior to our departure to the Mara region.

On the way, a stop at the Hub Mall was imperative to deal with our supplies and get a SIM card. We bought Airtel time and were satisfied with the service. Nevertheless it is our understanding that Safaricom works best on remote regions like the big north. Comparing with the service we had in 2018 we noticed a significant improvement on the mobile coverage.
Certainly the use of M-pesa has forced mobile operators to improve their coverage in the country, which by the way, is going incredibly digital and at warp speed.

Midday finally saw us heading to the Mara, a route we have done in the past, which meant enjoying the ride while descending the escarpment road and passing by the old Italian POW chapel.
We stopped at Narok for a brief re-fuel before heading to Sekenani through the C12 which is now totally tarred (for the worse or for the better). A real breeze throughout.

Just before reaching Sekenani Village, turned left into a dirt track towards Oseki Masai Mara Camp, our overnight stop before heading next day to the Mara Conservancy.

We were at camp 4:30 hrs and 229 km after leaving Nairobi.The camp is positioned on an advantageous hilly location, bordering the Maasai Mara Reserve.

It is within a 20-30 minute drive from Sekenani gate. The camp apart from offering an all inclusive lodge type of service, has an area with camping facilities. The camping space is nicely shaded, with good and clean ablutions and hot showers. Although we were the only campers, there were a few guests using the lodge area. We had dinner at the restaurant and retired to our tent early.
The night was calm and the only sound heard was of hyenas nearby.

We were afraid that with the village nearby we would have a lively H. sapiens night but that did not happen.


note : apologies for the low quality of these iPhone pics.

[apfac]

2. The Mara



The day saw us rising early and after a morning coffee we left Oseki Mara Camp towards Sekenani Gate.

At 06:40 we were at the reserve gate, checking in. Here we were given a two hour free transit to reach Purungat gate (aka Mara Bridge Gate), the official entrance to the Mara Conservancy (aka Mara Triangle) to which we arrived at 08:50 and 44km thereafter. While we were paying our fees (Card or M-Pesa) for the next five days, we were asked for a detection dog to inspect our car, which we immediately allowed.


Procedures done, we made our way to the Oloololo Public Campsite, our base for the next five nights. It was pleasantly wonderful to be back in Mara - indeed a very special place.


As soon as we started driving up to Oloololo we could see that the reserve was much calmer than on our last visit.

The migration has headed South, back into the Serengeti - Tanzania. When we last checked the migration was in full blast at the Triangle, and we thought we might be fortunate and still be able to witness it again, knowing nonetheless, that it is a dynamic and ongoing phenomenon governed by rains and food availability. Wildebeest favour the short first tender grasses. For those interested a captivating animation can be seen here.
Nevertheless there is more to the Mara than just the migration.

We feel and felt very privileged to have visited on two separate occasions on different timings. Although the quantity of species that inhabit the Mara ecosystem is almost the same, their perceptiveness (number of individual of each species) is different, in or outside the migration. There is no chaos created by the migration. Resident species resume their daily habits on their established and regular grounds/ territories. This pattern is somehow altered during the migration and is more evident in some species than others. There is no need to escape to safer grounds.
The Mara was greener, grasses taller. Elephants, Giraffe and Topi were abundant early in the morning. Geckos could be listened chirping in full glory late in the afternoon or after a wet night. Species that were obscured by the migration. Heaven on earth.


During the course of the five days we drove 658 km exploring exclusively the Mara Triangle including the more remote, astonishingly beautiful and less visited western part bordering Oloololo /Sirian escarpment.

Days would be spent with two main game drives per day, one in the morning and the other, shorter, in the afternoon. Usually we would break our morning drive into two, stopping at Purungat gate for a rest and make our way up to the campsite thereafter. During these drives we saw a whole myriad of animals. When we would see a congestion of cars certainly a cat would be the reason, and if near a water course, undeniably a leopard. Regrettably the five car/ sight rule, was not respected, mostly by professional drivers.

We were extremely lucky to have a few sightings just for ourselves.

Although we tried very hard, our Serval cat eluded us, this time. There was not enough ground stirring by the vanished migration, to find them hunting at dawn.

On our third day, and after a few kilometres driven we decided that it would be wiser to get some fuel as we would have a 250km drive to Njoro. We did not want to restrict ourselves game driving while at the magnificent Mara. Serena Hotel very seldomly sells fuel to guests, unless you are in an extreme situation. We had two alternatives : either try our luck at Keekorok or go back all the way to Sekenani and get some fuel from the two newer fuel stations existent there. The road (C13) to Lolgorien in the North, had some selling points, but of doubtful quality. We got our fill to a full tank at Keekorok.


In the process of going out and in of the Conservancy, we could really see how well the roads within the Triangle are maintained. The difference between the Conservancy and the Reserve was striking. Day and Night. Strangely, the road corrugation on the Reserve side seem to be worst going towards Sekenani than going back to the bridge . Was it habituation from our side? or, was it the direction the road has been graded?


Satisfied with our feat and back into the Conservancy, we stopped at one picnic tree and had our lunch break; after that we went for a nice refreshment/ coffee at Serena Hotel and enjoyed, once again, the spectacular views from the lodge. The coffee was a gorgeous Kenyan arabica that tasted immensely well.


We found Oloololo Public Campsite in the same condition as in 2018. Heavenly views into the plains below, where one could just seat and see nature go by. The infrastructure has been well kept and maintained, and even with some minor improvements : the western-style long drop was replaced by a cleaner traditional long drop. Though less comfortable!

On the negative side, they could already have arranged for a dedicated place for dishwashing or an independent water point at the kitchen-like compound. We had to use the washbasins on the toilet complex. Although the proximity of the staff quarters did not create any bother, the sound of the patrol dogs barking at nighttime was distracting to the sounds of the night. Lastly, despite the fact the garbage pit dump was clean, they could have it displaced to a different place, away from the campsite. Also, it is not that difficult to refrain ourselves from using it.

On the first days we were the only campers, but as the weekend approached (and it is now so easy to reach the Mara from Nairobi) we were joined for a single night by a young couple. On our last night a family from the Njoro region arrived for a few days.


Weather wise, the mornings were generally clear and warm. At midday a cloud cover would start to develop becoming increasingly darker. The scent of rain in the air, menacing a diluvial downpour would grow. Sometimes joined by distant thunder. Fortunately, this just materialised into a few showers early in the evenings, postponing any deluge.This would be accompanied by gusty winds, that had hampered us from making any fire. Easily a wildfire could have been started should we pursuit that wish. Winds were so strong that twice we had to use the protection offered by the walls of the toilet premises to simply boil some water. Cooking was challenging, so we used our limited supply of ready to eat food.

Apart from this, the most positive thing would be the crisp and filtered light we would have after a rain pour, should that had happened during the afternoon. Just evenly ethereal.

Nights were generally calm, with few visitors into camp. Hyenas, jackals were common to be seen or heard.


Unfortunately our time in the glorious Mara was coming to an end and we had to continue with our journey, this time Northwards towards the Central region - Njoro/Nakuru.

We had 250km to cover to our next destination - Kembu Cottages , Njoro. A customary early rise allowed us to make a short last game drive before leaving the reserve earlier than 10AM - a compulsory rule with the recent changes. By 7:50 we finally said farewell.

[apfac]

3. Nakuru/ Kembu Cottages



Regrettably we departed from the Conservancy at 7:50AM towards Kembu, a new destination on the horizon. The route taken was Oloololo Gate - C13 Lolgorien - C17 Kilgoris - C16 Nyangusu - B3 Keroka - C 23 Sotik - Kericho - C56 Kembu, which covered 245 Km and took eight (8) hours to reach, including stops for refuelling, grocery shopping and a brief lunch.


After the slow going and rough gravel rocky road up the Siria escarpment (C13) Lolgorien village came unexpectedly bright and developed. A filling station can be found there. Getting into the tarred C17 to Kilgoris was most welcome but this would terminate 10-15 km before Kilgoris, becoming again a dirt road, sometimes in a poor state, but nothing that Punda could not deal with. Kilgoris itself was a disappointment compared to Lolgorien - a busier, bigger and darker village. From here, onwards to our destination was all tar.

The drive from Lolgorien to Keroka, through the low-traffic C17 and C16 was a real pleasure, passing through the hilly scenery filled with fields of maize, hay, sorghum, and sugar cane. Most of this is sold to or used into the dairy farming, another major source of income in the region. Men carrying their daily yield on milk containers at the back of their motorbikes, was a common sight on the road. A real different sight from rural Africa. A working and entrepreneurial rural Africa.

At Keroka we refilled our fuel tank, before continuing heading North. Nearing Kericho, and now on the busier A23, tea plantations started to appear increasingly in frequency and size. We were stepping into the major tea producing area in Kenya.

As we had ran low on our stock of “dry food“ (i.e., ready to eat food items - cans, cold meats, bread) we stopped at Kericho for shopping. The Green Square Mall, located on the main road with a fair Kipchimatt supermarket fulfilled our immediate needs. We would probably have to go shopping again in Nakuru for items we could not find.


Meanwhile while travelling north the weather became darker and not so cheerful. Rain started with a slight drizzle interspersed with the occasional shower. We had our quick lunch at the parking lot.

Continuing our way up, tea plantations abounded and the occasional greenhouse started to appear. Fortunately the rain stopped but the day remained damp and dewy. In less than two hours we were checking - in at Kimana Farm - Kembu cottages for the next two nights.


The camping facilities are set on perfectly manicured lawns, each camping site with its own shed, presence light and power point. The toilets and showers were spotless and serviced with hot water.
We decided to have our evening meals at their restaurant, for which we should order before 5PM. The food was delicious and plenty to choose from a comprehensive á la carte menu.

After settling in, and having a well deserved hot shower, dusk had already fell in. We moved ourselves to the comfortable lounge/bar area and made a stroll through their vast gardens. The views across the valley were just beautiful. Unfortunately due to weather conditions photographs were not taken. Dinner was plenty and just too much. Went to bed early, once again with a light drizzle that perdured till the early hours of the night.


Next day saw us rising slightly earlier than usual so to be at Nakuru NP at 6.30AM. We had decided to make a day visit to Lake Nakuru while at Kembu, instead of just seating around and reading! Further, we still had a few things to buy and re-stock ourselves. So we should go to Nakuru Town.

We left Kembu at 5:50 and at 6:35 were at the “new” entrance gate to the park (located now next to the Nakuru field study centre). The old and original entrance gate is well underwater. Hearing about the rising and flooding waters of the Rift Valley lakes is totally different than experience it ourselves. A dramatic and sad view to witness.

After showing our e-citizen tickets, we were in.


Lake Nakuru is a shallow and strongly alkaline lake with surrounding woodland and grassland. It is fed by four seasonal rivers and the permanent Ngosur river. The National park is said to show the big Five. It is as well a RAMSAR site and an important breeding ground for Pelicans and Flamingos (Greater and Lesser).

Although we did not have too much time to explore the park, we could immediately sense that the northern part of the park fringing the city is inaccessible due to the flooding. The southern part is visitable and it is where all the touring takes place.

Early in the morning we were probably the only ones in the park apart from KWS workers. After 8 AM the first tourist laden cars started to appear and at 10AM there was a profusion arriving, just when we were thinking to wrap it up. Cats are the most sought after species, and as usual, when we would see a congestion of cars the most probable cause would be a cat. In the beautiful yellow acacia dense forest surrounding the lake we saw one of those maddening congestions and the word spread was of a leopard in the distance!

Although we did not see any cat, the only predators seen were hyena and jackal. We were fortunate enough to see a crash of white rhino mud bathing. The profusion of water birds was amazing including thousands of great white pelicans and flamingos. It is our impression that the park rightly deserves a more attentive and lengthy visit.


We left the park around 12:30 and headed back to Kembu, without first visiting the Westside Mall and the excellent Naivas supermarket to buy our “hard to find” items. We took the opportunity and bought a take away lunch which we ate at camp in the company of the family dogs - A Jack Russel Terrier and an old Labrador Retriever.

During the afternoon the weather changed again and became dark and damp. Dinner was ordered, this time on a much lesser scale. Portions from the day before were humongous.

At dinner time we met a group of three gentlemen (a Dutch, an Ecuadorian and a Colombian) on a business trip in the region. They were staying at the cottages Kembu offers for rent. During the conversation we learnt that Kenya is within the first three main flower producers in the world. They were obviously in the flower business and on a prospection trip. This explained the profusion of greenhouses we would start to see around the area and still further north into the foothills of Mount Kenya.

Despite the rain that fell during the entire afternoon and early evening, the night was dry and with no wind.

The following day was the day of a much anticipated and dreamed of drive North, into the heart of a rift sculpted landscape. We would pass as well, the imaginary Equator line for the first time in this trip. Destination was Lake Baringo via Eldoret and Iten in order to travel through the Kerio Valley, before descending the Tungen Hills to the freshwater lake. This would be another long drive : 275Km.

[Wazungu Wawili]

Wow! I am being treated today - two trip reports from Kenya in one day (Tedx2 being the other one, but not posted under the Kenya sub-section).

Asante sana, apfac, for Part 1 of your trip report on the cusp of the rains in October. Excellent work!

[apfac]

4. Lake Baringo


We left Kimana Farm at 6:10 Am still in the wake of dawn. Back tracked through the C56 into the D316 to get the busier A104 further north. The route would take us to Eldoret- C51Iten- Kabarnet - B4 Marigat - Bush Baby CS/ Lake Baringo. Spent 7:30hrs to cover the 275Km, including stops for refuelling and the occasional rest break.

The A104 is a heavy traffic main road supporting the international cargo traffic into the neighbouring countries: Uganda and DRC. As Punda was not the fastest of the cars, (and climbing to 2900m suffered of altitude sickness) we pleased ourselves there were climbing lanes while ascending to Eldoret (Uasin Gishu Plateau) that eased the overtaking procedure of those heavy loaded semi-trailer trucks.
On the way we witnessed two overturned semi-trailers that eventually lost control descending. The weather did not cooperate as well: there was a low cloud cover, and it was foggy and damp. Fortunately it did not rain.

Passing the Equator line meant that officially we changed seasons : from Spring to Autumn! but nothing has changed! We did forget though, to check about the moon and its mood : being a lier (Northern Hemisphere) or a truth-teller (Southern Hemisphere - Crescent and Decrescent)!


Back to the route, at Eldoret we took the C51 that drove us till Marigat. On the way to Iten, a stone thrown by a speeding car in front hit the windshield making it to crack into two fissures. Due to weather conditions, cars coming from secondary gravel roads, get into the tarmac roads, with their tyres clogged in mud, and as they gain speed all sort of debris come out from those tires, stones included. There is no way you can avoid it. Fortunately the windscreen held for the rest of the trip with some minor slit progression.


We stopped at the Iten viewpoint for a coffee break and enjoyed the majestic views of the Kerio Valley.

Traversing the Kerio is just magnificent, astonishing scenery, changing from Alpine to African Savanna in just a short distance. Descending the escarpment made us drop 1150m from an altitude of 2300m, before starting climbing again to Kabarnet, the county capital. Both were done in second /third gear for safety reasons.

At Kabarnet we made a brief stop for refuelling before proceeding the climb to the top of the Tungen Hills. Here we paused briefly admiring from a distance and for the first time, both Lake Baringo and Lake Bogoria. Descending, the C51 drove us to the main B4 at Marigat. At 13:40 we finally reached Luca’s place (Bushbaby Camp) on the western shores of Lake Baringo. Luca was expecting us.

Lake Baringo is, after Lake Turkana, the most northern lake from a string of Kenyan Rift Valley lakes. From these only Baringo and the southerly Naivasha are freshwater lakes. The rest are saltwater.

Lake Baringo is a Ramsar classified site providing a critical and important refuge for bird species (nearly 500 reported species). The lake is home for seven small islands, being known as the Seven Island Lake. These are: Lokoros, Rongena, Samatian, Ol Kokwe, Parmolok (private family island), Gibraltar and Devil’s Island (sacred island). Of these two are of note: Ol Kokwe is the centrally located and biggest in the lake, and still with some geothermal activity (hot springs and fumaroles). The island is considerably and permanently inhabited , and is to where most of the tourist tours are taken to see fish eagle feeding. The Gibraltar rocky islet hosts a Goliath Heronry, the largest in East Africa.


Ruko island (a.k.a. Longicharo Island - not mentioned on the above), once a peninsula inlet, sits just northeast to Ol Kokwe, next to the Eastern lake shore. It became slowly an island with the lake rising waters. This particular island was once (2011) the protected area for the threatened Rothschild’s giraffe (G. c. camelopardalis). As rising water levels continued to shrink the size of the island, threatening the survival of animals, the sanctuary had to be abandoned and a animals had to be translocated to mainland to the Ruko Community Conservancy . This started in December 2020 and successfully finished in April 2021 (full story here).

Bushbaby camp is the work of a life time. It is a lovely small property with ample shaded spots for camping, each with its own power point and presence light if needed. It is serviced by simple and clean toilets and showers (cold). There is an enclosed and zinc roofed kitchen compound where one can prepare meals (which became useful on rainy conditions). A bar/ lounge/reception area is also available. Luca is now busy building a few (7) bungalows for hire.

After settling in and having our deserved lunch, we decided on our activities for the next two days. An early morning boat excursion into the lake, a Nature walk and early bird walk were organised for the following days.

During our stay at Baringo, the weather followed a daily pattern already known and experienced by us: an overcast morning that would eventually dissipate into the day, returning menacingly dark by late afternoon culminating with a downpour. Nevertheless we managed to braai/ grill over the coals on the covered kitchen compound.

The call for prayer, from a nearby mosque, early in the evening would prompt us to bed (if not already). The Adhan would be listened again early in the morning anticipating our fish-eagle wake up call.

Although we were all alone in camp during the day, on the first night we were joined by a young couple that were cycling the Rift lakes. They left in the morning.

On the first morning we took an extended boat trip, admired the vast aquatic bird life the lake had to offer, and observed fish eagles being lured for a catch. Fish was bought to the local Maasai fishermen which would properly impale it with a very light wood stick, allowing the bait keep afloat. Alex and Augustine were our guides.

In the afternoon we had to have our Nature walk rescheduled as it poured early in the afternoon. During the walk we learnt about several particularities including how two different Acacia tree species (A. froggattii and A.brevispica) were brought in to control soil erosion. A sign readily seen by the highly silted water the lake conveys. Further to this matter, a cactus species (Opuntia ficus) has been planted to further enhance this soil runoff and is used as well as fodder and fencing for the cattle. It is now an highly invasive species, as in any other place in the world, where it is planted.

On our second night we were joined by a trio which arrived very late in the night (around 2AM). They also left next day.

The following morning we had an early morning walk and were able to see some nocturnal bird species: owls, nightjars. Both walks were very educational and entertaining.

The rest of the day was spent on some camp chores, reading and preparing our next route to Ngare Ndare Forest, on the foothills of Mount Kenya.

This was another highlight of our travel. We had three alternatives to reach Nanyuki:

1. via Loruk (the locally popular route) - D370 to Muggie - C77 (now tarred all the way from Maralal to Nyahururu) to Rumuruti - C76 (gravel) - Nanyuki;
2. via the Laikipia escarpment : Marigat - C51 - Rumuruti - C76 to Nanyuki: or
3. via the B4 all the way down to Nakuru- Nyahururu - Rumuruti - Nanyuki.

Our primary intention was to drive the Laikipia escarpment road but recent weather conditions refrained us of doing it for safety reasons. We opted for the safest route, but the longest : the B4.

[Tedx2]

Great trip report AP, thanks for sharing. So sorry we missed you, would have loved to meet up. I'm relieved that I'm not the only one that doesn't provide "live" reports Look forward to hearing how you enjoyed the Northern Parks

[apfac]

Thank you Tedx2. Indeed, I am still running on diesel, slow!

Waiting for your future instalments!

AP

[apfac]

5. Ngare Ndare Forest


Embittered, we left Luca’s place early at 6:15 in the morning, and reached Ngare Ndare around 15:45, 9:30 hrs and 318Km thereafter. We stoped at Nanyuki for refuelling and grocery shopping at Cedar Mall / Naivas supermarket.

We left Baringo with a partially clouded sky and the weather was fair and dry most of the way. Approaching the foothills of Mt. Kenya, and by the state of the C76 bordering Ol Pejeta we could perceive that had been some serious raining. By the time we reached Nanyuki light showers started.

Leaving Cedar Mall some heavy raining started and perdured for most of the afternoon. While pouring down we stopped at one fuel station for lunch, hoping the rain would ease. But it did not.


Passing Timau we turned left into the access dirt road to NN which progressively started to show signs of water clogging, becoming wetter and slippery. As we approached the turnoff to the main gate, we started to see some cars coming from the opposite direction, possibly from Ngare Ndare (NN).

Were they escaping from something? People inside showed signs of some wariness.
Reaching the main gate, were told we could not proceed down into the forest due to the road conditions and that it would be very difficult for us to camp. After some explaining we were allowed to proceed and talk with the rangers at the secondary / entrance gate to the forest.

The drive down was made in 4WD and low gear. Roads have been transformed into little streams and quite slippery. Reaching the ranger gate we were informed awkwardly they were not expecting people for camping.

Although we have not paid in advance, we did make our reservations previously - a compulsory requirement due to the logistics involved. Guests should spend the night in the company of two appointed rangers. After showing proof of our reservation they finally allowed us to camp, and we had to wait for the rangers to come from the headquarters.

After some waiting the poor rangers finally arrived, attending the wishes of these crazy Wazungu.

Fortunately the rain subsided and we got a drier evening and night. The rangers, were extremely helpful and informative. They even lit a fire for us which was pleasantly warming and calming. Needless to say that we had another canned dinner.

The night was the calmest and silent we had for the entire trip. No sound could be heard apart from the occasional rain drop hitting the tent roof.


Campsites are small clearings in the forest, being serviced by a small hut nearby with a long drop latrine and open sky cold water shower. There is no dedicated place for dishwashing.

The morning came sunny and bright and hyena call could be heard nearby. After our usual cup of coffee we were ready for the morning activities : Canopy and Nature walk to the Blue pools.

Although not very fond of heights (an age thing!), the canopy walk is simply done. It is a 500m walk above the tree canopy, enjoying the scenery and birdlife. Sightings of the beautiful and always bouncing Hartlaub’s Turaco were seen high on the upper branches of the trees. Handsome bird.

The walk to the Blue Pools is a 7 Km walk that is done leisurely in the company of one of the rangers. The terrain was soaked and muddy. Approaching the pools either ascending or descending, the ground is rocky and becomes slippery in the wet. Extreme caution is necessary to prevent any fall. A broken leg was the least we would want.

Although we had not seen any animals during the walk, we saw evidence of their presence. Ngare Ndare makes part on an opened wildlife corridor between Borana and Lewa Conservancies, which boast the big five, and animals just roam freely. The pools irradiated its blue tinged colour, producing a calming and comforting effect in synchrony with the waterfall sound.

We were supposed to spend two nights at NN, but instead and due to the weather conditions, just decided to progress with our trip to Samburu NR; So, plan B surged, and we aimed for Umoja Campsite skirting Samburu NR.

After the morning activities we directed ourselves to the gate and paid our bill by card at the first gate. The walk activity was paid directly to the ranger, cash.

[Webster]

Fantastic afpac! Keep them coming

[apfac]

6. Samburu National Reserve


We left NN under an overcast sky menacing rain at any time. Indeed the weather forecast would say that. We would not, surely, be here under another downpour.

The brief sunlit morning just managed to dry up the roads, and we were able to get out with minimal effort.

The drive was uneventful and as we started descending the slopes of Mt Kenya into the valley, the weather completely changed into a bright, dry and hot type of weather; a completely different country it seemed.

Reached Umoja 14:30 hrs and 102 km later, satisfied with the decision we took. Ewaso Ngiro, the river in front, was running strong and full of organic debris. A reflection of the rains that fell upstream the days before. We were really dodging the rain.

The afternoon was warm and sunny and decided to put the tent up for a dry up.

After a brief lunch we went for a cold shower and got into camp mode, enjoying a drink at the bar, watching the river go by, reading and writing a few notes.

We later ordered dinner from the restaurant, a way to help the community and give us a break on cooking meals; We would have enough of that on the following days;


The camp is very simple, with just some space to put up camp. It is serviced by a shower/toilet complex for male and female, which were acceptably clean and in good functioning order. There is a house, where rooms can be rented, should one wish for that.

It was Sunday, and thus the bar had some local guests enjoying a drink. Some stayed for an evening meal. People were enjoying themselves, quietly. Shortly after dinner we resumed to our tent and had a good night sleep; fortunately the music and the people at the bar also finished early.
After all it was Monday next day. It did not rain during the night although there were a few threatening clouds coming from Buffalo Springs, the park on the other side of the river.


Next morning woke up at 6 AM, had our breakfast calmly and resumed our journey to the park . We did not want to get into the park too early because of the 24 hour rule; that meant, on the last day, we would have to speed up to leave. We later learnt that on the day one leaves, he must leave the park till 12. So we could have come earlier!!!

We got at the park gate (Archer's Gate) at 7:30. Paid our fees, cash, USD for the next 3 days; Vehicle fees were paid in KES. No cards accepted.


Slowly made our way to camp, taking some of game drive side roads, which by the way, were a real pleasure to drive. The main road is highly corrugated.


Reached camp around 10:30 and were greeted by Lise (Ranger) and Allison (Camp Attendant). After checking the available campsites we decided for CS # 3 - a beautiful piece of land by the muddy river (Ewaso Ngiro) shaded by some magnificent and old Acacia trees. These would be a favourite place for Baboons and Vervets to hang around during lunch time - the hottest time of the day. Some would come to roost at night. At lunch time they were a real nuisance.


The camp itself is serviced by a set of totally dilapidated toilets, and showers; The showers had no suitable place to hang the clothes, which had to be left outside. We had to go together for a shower so that one of us could keep an eye on the baboons /vervets There was a water point nearby from which one could collect water for dishwashing or other. Baboons just loved the place opening the tap and play with the water, leaving it open for hours.

On the way to camp, except for the Somali Ostrich we saw all the Samburu specials : Beisa Oryx, Reticulated giraffe, Grevy's zebra and Gerenuk. Somali Ostrich was seen on our last afternoon and last morning.


Days would be filled, as usual, by two game drives : one early in the morning and the other, a shorter one, in the afternoon.


On most of the days, by the time we reached camp late in the afternoon a fire was already lit by Allison.
On our first day, while he was preparing the wood for the fire he was bitten by a brown scorpion which was hidden under the bark of a dead branch. It seemed that I was worried more than him; I told him to wash the prick wound thoroughly and apply some ice if possible. He said he would take a pain killer once at the quarters. Next morning, was fine, and just referred to an excruciating pain, not in the finger but in the region of the draining lymph node - the axillary region. The pain subsided after 6-8 hours, and was just left with a swollen and numb finger.


Early in the evenings armed rangers would come by to check on us and sometimes would stay for a cup of coffee and talk a little.

In one of theses occasions, on our second night, Obama the resident bull elephant crossed the river just in front and towards us; a majestic animal. The guards said to us to position ourselves behind the car, as they faced the animal. In the process, Obama tried to come naturally and inquisitively towards the car to investigate but was firmly barred by the sound of engaging guns. A sound that he knows and will remember not to approach the car again.
He calmly diverted to the bushes behind and started feeding on them;


Nights were, as far as we could perceive calm. Sometimes we would listen lion roar at the distance, mostly from Buffalo Springs.

As we would be just three days in the park we concentrated our drives at Samburu NR, leaving Buffalo Springs for a future visit.

We tried to get acquainted as much as possible with the myriad of roads and loops available. Game driving on the riverine loops was almost barred as the terrain was already soaked and muddy making driving challenging and prone to get stuck. So we mostly drove the northern loops, which proved to be quite prolific game wise.

Although we had listened to them we were not able to see Lion, knowing nonetheless that they may have seen us! Not fare.

Nevertheless we were lucky enough to have one beautiful and intimate Leopard sighting, and two cheetahs on two separate days. Towards the end of our stay we found ourselves desperately looking for Somali ostrich until the search became fruitful on the very last afternoon.

On our last day, as we reached camp at lunch time, we found a full display of chairs arranged as for a meeting under the shade of the glorious Acacia trees.
A meeting between the Park administration and the Community leaders was to be held.

Interestingly enough there was no signs of Baboons or Vervet monkeys. We had the most relaxed lunch in Samburu.

However, arriving at camp late in the afternoon we had a troop of baboons coming to roost at the trees. It was the only night that happened. It was as well the only night we listened to alarm calls. One of the privileges of having a troop of baboons guarding us during the night.


We experienced beautiful and dry weather in Samburu, except for the last night when it started to rain into the night. We woke up to a heavily overcast morning and had breakfast under a light and intermittent drizzle.

As we broke camp and got into the main road, towards Archer’s Gate, scattered downpours occurred, making the side roads we had driven before streams of torrential water.

We were again, dodging the rain. At 8 AM we were at Archer’s gate, two hours past leaving camp departing to our next destination: Meru National Park.

[apfac]

7. Meru National Park


The drive to Isiolo was done under an increasingly clearing sky, enjoying the scenery and the foothills of Mt. Kenya at a distance. Mt. Kenya herself remained hidden under a thick cloud cover.

We could apprehend that this weather would change as soon as we would start climbing it.

At Isiolo we refuelled and took the southern tarred D490 to Ruiri where we stoped to buy some Doom spray and bottled water.

Isiolo is a busy trading town with a strong Islamic influence; Although we certainly had more diversity to choose from than at Ruiri, we did not want to stop for shopping at Isiolo and preferred to proceed as far south as possible and see how the trip would unfold.

As soon as we diverted into the D490, the weather predictably started to change, becoming greyer, foggy and finally wet. There were several landslides with people battling to get by on their motorbikes or Toyotas. The weather here, had not been the same we had (fortunately) enjoyed at Samburu. It became increasingly greyish and wetter.

The rural landscape could not be fully appreciated but noticed that the region major crop is Khat, a major source of local income. People would gather at certain spots and deliver/ sell their daily yield. Maua is indeed the epicentre of Khat production in Kenya, famed either locally or internationally by its high quality.

Seeing the state of the side dirt roads, we wondered how the park roads would be and how much we would be able to do! Although not making part of our general lexicon, giving up was considered. Plan B was mentally taking some shape. But we committed to ourselves to go till the park gate and see how it would be.

A thought that helped was a conversation we had with the waiter at Umoja restaurant. Originally from Meru he was working at Samburu. He said : “ … do not bother about the weather in Meru NP; It is like here - always dry and sunny, It can be pouring at Meru town but in the valley is always sunny and dry” .

And so we went hopping for the best.

Actually until 5 Km away from the Park gate, the weather was miserably wet, foggy and damp. Approaching the gate it started to clear, as by miracle. Sun rays started to permeate through the broken cloud cover, and water vapour puffs from the drying roads could be observed.It started to look good!

E-citizen payment verified, we checked in and proceeded towards Bwatherongi Public Campsite.

The main road, an all-weather road, cuts through the northern plains into the more rugged and river cut landscape as we ran dipper into the park. The vegetation Initially open grassland changes to a denser thorny bush grassland becoming a wooded grassland nearing the water courses; The main waterways/ rivers support dense riverine forests of Doum and Raffia palm.

We reached Bwatherongi one hour after entering the park. Campsite #4 was attributed to us. A nice clearing with plenty of shade and a stream flowing nearby.

The campsite was serviced by an individual water point and a braai area. The Toilet/Shower compound was situated a few meters away and was neatly clean and in good working condition.
Some wood was provided by the camp attendants for the following three nights we would be here.

On the first evening we did not have running water as the reservoirs were empty; KWS just replenished them on the following day. Nevertheless we were still able to have our shower on the first day. Showers on the second day were taken after replenishing. Meanwhile, camp attendants kindly supplied us with two 25L water bottles should we require water for an immediate use. Fortunately we were self-sufficient, for now.

After lunch we went for our first game drive and immediately perceived that animals would not be easily sighted : a dense vegetation and an extremely skittish behaviour contributed for the fact. Years of heavy negligence and the low density of visitors the park receives annually may contribute to this kind of behaviour.

On the following two days we just drove the loops around camp. Elsa's Kopjie, Pippa’s Grave and Leopard Rock were visited. Nevertheless failed to go as far as Elsa’s Grave or Adamson’s Falls. Although we had tried twice to visit the swamp area, we did not go far into it, as the area was already very wet. Further, with the recent rains, animals had dispersed, with plenty of water and vegetation alike to hide.

Pertaining to animal species we saw plenty, including the incredible shy Lesser Kudu. The closest we had been to see any predator (excluding the Black-backed Jackal) was a leopard Tortoise we came across at one of the drives.

Again, Lions were heard but not seen. Nature loves to hide, indeed.

During the course of the days, we just saw few (3) guest cars one of which we met before at Samburu NR. They came from Ol Pejeta before coming here. In camp we were the only guests for the entire three nights and were kept in company by a few pairs of very inquisitive bush babies (galagos).

Last morning approached and we had a long drive back to Nairobi.

Initially we had planned to leave through Bailey's bridge via Mwingi NR and Mwingi town, but we had to drop that route for obvious reasons - Weather and road conditions. Instead we opted for the safest route: Maua - Meru - Nanyuki - Makutano - Thika - Nairobi.

The Western route ( A2) was preferred over the Eastern Route (B6) for the same reasons. A total of 411 Km were driven in just short of 11:30 hrs.

[apfac]

8. Nairobi


As we were breaking camp, and again, lions made their presence noticed : they were just in the vicinity of Rejuwero River. They never felt so close, but we did not have the time to investigate.

We left towards Murera gate, slowly on game drive mode, and reached it in 1:30hrs. It was quite a productive drive. Every single animal we have seen the previous days, was out just as to say : see you next time.

Indeed a vow we made to come back. Meru NP is wild and untamed. Game viewing is not easy, but it is highly rewarding. It should not be ignored or left in complete unawareness as a prime wildlife destination. We left Meru with a bittersweet feeling.

Early in the morning the scenery was spectacular, and the filtered light fulfilled all the requisites for good photography. Looking far at a distance Nyambeni Hills were still noticeable but Mt Kenya remained covered in secrecy under a cloud blanket.

It would not be still today we would have a glimpse of her majestic silhouette.

As anticipated, as soon as we started climbing the Nyambeni, the weather changed to a foggy and rainy state. It took us 2:40 hrs to reach Meru Town, so that one can see how misty and untrusting the road was. A brief stop at Maua was done to check on tyre pressure.

From Meru onwards, the visibility improved although with scattered showers. Climbing the slopes of Mt Kenya towards Nanyuki, Punda suffered a little bit; Speed was not definitely her speciality. From Nanyuki onwards, the weather started to clear and good weather accompanied us till Nairobi; We stopped briefly at Nanyuki for refuelling and at Kiganjo for a quick lunch.

Coming closer to Nairobi traffic started to increase; This was particularly noticeable from Makutano, where the easterly B6 joins the A2. The highway was by now a three lane highway, which became a six lane from Thika onwards. Although with a minor hiccup we came out well from this medley. It was Sunday so we believe it could have been more intense on weekdays, although there were people returning from the weekend.

Before heading back to JJ´s we pushed a little bit further to the Hub to buy some dinner. It was Sunday and Chris would not have dinner available. We got a take away from “ La Cascina” - one of the best pizzas we had for a very long time. Terrific dough. We did not feel like going into a restaurant after a long day on the road; Getting into Jungle Junction, having the car vacated, having a refreshing and calming shower, sitting finally down with a nice cold beer and a good piece of pizza was all we could wish. So we did.

Since we would have an evening flight home, we reserved our last morning for a visit to Nairobi NP. Following our daily schedule, woke up early enough to be at the gate around 6:30.

E-citizen tickets confirmed, we were in.

Nairobi National Park did surprised us somehow. While one may think visiting a park within a big city will be looking at a Zoo dressed differently, NNP has more into it. Although it is fenced all way around, its southern natural boundary - The Athi River, allows for some free animal movement making the population within, dynamic. This is vital for the ecosystem and the diversity in it.

Surely it felt odd and contrasty having a cityscape backdrop, or a railway line cutting through the landscape making us to realise how increasingly difficult it will be conservation and preservation in the future.

The morning just passed fast and sadly we had to think about saying goodbye. We did see quite a variety of animals at NNP, including the lion that eluded us at Samburu NR and Meru NP. Should we have dedicated more time we would certainly see more, obviously.

At 11:30 we exited the park, thinking about how precious this trip to Kenya was and already making plans for a come back.


Post- Script / Recommendation
There are two particular authors that I am very fond of and have been following their work. One, a talented and genial musician : Nick Cave. The other, less known, out of the spotlight, but no less valuable : Vincent Munier, a french photographer. Incredibly, and out of any thought I could ever foresee, Vincent invited Nick to illustrate musically the tremendous photography work he had produced at the Tibetan Plateau. The documentary and the soundtrack for “ La Panthère des Neiges” (“The Velvet Queen”) came out in 2021. A trailer can be watched and listened here . We are not alone.

This finally concludes our report. Thank you for reading it.

AP

[Webster]

Thanks Afpac - we never went to Nairobi national park, I wish we had - its on the list again!
I hear you on the underpowered Land Cruiser - we have the same model - takes strain on the uphills....but it does mean you aren't tempted to overtake trucks ços you know you can't!

Have you started planning your next trip?

[Tedx2]

Thanks for a lovely TR AP. Loved reading through your report, made me feel we were back in Kenya. I am currently working on our trip through the Tsavos, hopefully posted tomorrow or Saturday, I type very, very slowly.

[apfac]

Thanks Afpac - we never went to Nairobi national park, I wish we had - its on the list again!
I hear you on the underpowered Land Cruiser - we have the same model - takes strain on the uphills....but it does mean you aren't tempted to overtake trucks ços you know you can't!

Have you started planning your next trip?

Hi Webster,

Thank you for reading and for the comments.
Actually, apart for the lack of speed, Punda was essentially, a reliable companion. That is what you want on a vehicle once out there.

There are always plans to return to Africa. The most difficult part is to focus. I still have to decide..., but definitely, God's willing, we will back on 2024. Still have to decide.


Wishes for a great 2024.

AP

[apfac]

Thanks for a lovely TR AP. Loved reading through your report, made me feel we were back in Kenya. I am currently working on our trip through the Tsavos, hopefully posted tomorrow or Saturday, I type very, very slowly.

Hi Tedx2,

Glad I managed to put you on memory lane. I will be waiting for the "Tsavos" no matter how much time it takes! No pressure.

AP

[Wazungu Wawili]

Thank you, apfac, for finishing this excellent trip report. I am so pleased that you had such a great trip to my home country, the El Niño rains (mostly) held off until a few weeks later, and the vehicle was reliable and well-equipped. Karibuni Kenya!

[Tannaman]

Wonderful report thanks. Can you give dates. October but when to when. Interesting to link weather to dates.
thanks
maybe I missed it

[apfac]

Wonderful report thanks. Can you give dates. October but when to when. Interesting to link weather to dates.
thanks
maybe I missed it

Thank you for reading. 8-30th.