I Finished My 1998 Pajero 3.0 Difflock Retrofit

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Thanked: 20

    Default I Finished My 1998 Pajero 3.0 Difflock Retrofit

    So finally 8 months after I decided to a retrofit of a diff lock in my 98 Pajero 3.0 GLX SWB. It took this long to finally track down a secondhand diff with diff lock. Al tough for two months in the searching time I didnít really look as cash was a little short.

    The Sourcing:

    I tried everywhere to find the appropriate diff phoning Gert at Parthunt quite regularly. And I phoned almost every scrap yard whose number I could find. Searched through the Junk Mail. Finally two months ago I decided to phone Martin at Parthunt instead of Gert.
    Finally some joy, he told me that he had one of the mysterious unobtainable diffs but that he promised it to one of his regular clients and wanted to give him the opportunity to come up with the cash but if he didnít take it I could have it.

    So I ended up giving Martin a call every five days or so over two weeks but Martin kept on saying that he is still waiting to hear from his client. So at that time I got married went on honeymoon got home and settled in with my wonderful new wife. Around a month after the previous call I gave Martin another call and it seems with a bit of reluctance that he finally said that he had diff lock I could have. (It turns out that he hided this diff away for his own private use and gave it to me because he got tired of me bugging him) So I transferred the money into his account and on the Thursday afternoon I picked up the diff as I was drive past the area for work. Finally I had the mysterious diff lock in my possession.


    Friday evening:

    I decided to strip down the new diff and see if everything is in working order. (The initial plan was to change the whole diff but after I realised the weight of the thing, and to the fact that there was no one around to help me, I decided to rather just go with the exchanging of the necessary parts).

    I loosened the 10 nuts holding the third member of the diff loosened the four nuts on each side of the diff holding the hub assembly and side shafts in place. Slide out the side shafts with the hub assembly and placed them on a clean work bench. Now the centre portion is free to be removed. I had to use a putty knife to gently break the seal(Gasket maker) between the third member and the housing. I inspected the diff for any signs of wear and all look in a good condition. I connected the diff compressor to a battery to test the actuator and it engaged and released quickly without any effort. All was set to start the parts exchange the following morning.

    Saturday morning:

    I engaged 1st gear low range chocked up the front wheels and lifted the rear end (after loosening the wheel nuts) and supported the rear axle on jack stands. Removed the rear wheels and disconnected the hydraulic brake lines from both rear calipers. ( Itís a good idea to plug the lines to avoid brake fluid leaking everywhere. I disconnected the rear handbrake lines from the front line and then proceeded to drain the diff oil. Next up was the disassembly of the left hand side brake assembly (itís only necessary to swap the left side shaft as the new side shaft is slightly shorter). I removed the brake pads (loosen the retaining bolt and pop them out) followed by the caliper (two bolts on the inside side of the wheel and slide it upward) and then pulled the disk off to expose the drum handbrake system. I loosed the retaining clips on both the rear hand break lines (about 30cm in front of the rear axle) loosened the retaining pins on the brake pads and released the spring connecting the pads at the bottom to dissemble the handbrake assembly. The last thing to do is to pull the brake line through the backing plate after disconnecting it from the brake pad.

    I was now ready to start on the diff itself. First up I disconnected the rear prop shaft from the third member by loosening the four bolts on the flange and pushing the prop shaft slightly forward. I tied the prop shaft to the chassis to ensure it is out of the way and doesnít hang at an extreme angle. I then proceeded to loosen the four nuts on each end of the axle to loosen the hub and side shaft assembly I proceeded to pull out the left side shaft out completely and then the right hand side, which needed a little persuasion with a wooden block and rubber mallet. I only pulled the right hand side shaft out by around 100mm to ensure it would clear the 3rd member.

    It was now on to the 3rd member, I loosened the ten nuts securing the 3rd member and tried to use a putty knife again to separate the 3rd member from the diff housing but it wouldnít budge. In the end I had to resort to taking a small flat screwdriver and a small hobby hammer to gently force the seal open. (Luckily none of the surfaces was damaged in this process). After pulling the 3rd member of the securing bolts it needs to be lifted slightly to be able to remove it from the housing (This was quite a precarious process as limited space and a hefty weight from the 3rd member made maneuvering of the 3rd member a challenge).

    At this moment in time I was interrupted by a family dinner and decided to continue with the assembly of everything later that evening.

    The first step was to remove all of the gasket sealer on the services of the 3rd member and diff housing. After that was done I applied a thin layer of gasket sealer to the diff housing to ensure a leak free seal. Getting the new third member into place was hard work to hold up the 3rd member while trying to align the bolts and holes. I tightened the nuts in a cross pattern starting to with one nut and then tightening the one directly opposite the first one after that and then followed by tightening the nut 90deg to right of the first one and then the one directly opposite of that to ensure an even seal right around the housing, making sure I tighten them to the correct torque levels. ( I cant remember the exact figure but it is given in the Haynes manual). Next up I re installed the right side shaft and the new left side shaft assemblies (itís easier to do this before refitting the prop shaft as it allows you to rotate the side shafts for easier fitting). Finally I refitted the prop shaft which took a little bit of patience to get the holes on the prop shaft and diff flange aligned.

    I decided to call it a day at this point and left the refitting of the brakes and wheels for the next morning.

    Sunday morning:

    After church on Sunday morning I tackled the last portion of the reassembly the refitting of the brakes is the reverse of the disassembly. But it must be said that having the Haynes manual available helped a bit in getting all the parts for the handbrake assembly in the right places. After refitting all the parts I bled brake system, refitted the wheels and let the Pajero on the floor again and left it for a couple of hours to give the gasket maker to cure properly. All in all the process took me around 8-9 hours off work to complete over the weekend with some trial and error.

    So late afternoon I replaced the diff lock switch as the wires of the one that was in the
    diff was in a bad condition and in the problem area was in such a position that fixing it
    wasnít an option. I topped up the diff oil and was now ready for the test drive. So I tied the diff lock switch wires and vacuum house out of the way that they donít get entangled in the prop shaft when on the move and of I went.


    As soon as I turned out of the driveway I realised there is something wrong. The diff lock was engaged and didnít unlock, I tried driving forward then reversing in a curve and could hear the diff lock trying to disengaged but it kept clunking as it relocked. O joy what have I done wrong, maybe I should have taken it to proís.

    Monday Morning:

    I phoned Martin for some advice and he gave me number of Willie (Martin uses him to work on gearboxes and diffs).

    Tuesday Afternoon:

    After a client cancelled a meeting with me I had the afternoon free and decided to tackle the diff once again this time I didnít dissemble the brakes as I realized that It wouldnít be necessary to just get the 3rd member out. With the 3rd member out and inspecting it again I realised that the Difflock switch was pushing the actuator closed and this kept the difflock engaged. I quickly phoned Willie who was very helpful and he when I told him what the problem was he immediately told me that the diff lock switch needed an 3mm aluminum washer to get the spacing right. With a resolution to my problem I set of to quickly make some spacers of a sheet of aluminum I had left over from a previous project. Two spacers later and the switch gently touched the actuator plate as it is supposed to.

    So reinstalling everything once again and this time I tested the diff lock before letting the Pajero of the jack stands again. And it seemed to work properly this time round when testing it with the pump running on a battery and turning the wheels by hand. Having learned a couple of tricks the first time round I was well chuffed to have removed and refitting everything in three and a half hours this time round.

    Wednesday Evening:

    So after work I topped up the diff oil again and set off on the second test drive. Cautiously I left the drive way and turned left into the street and everything seems fine. I made a couple of slow turns to ensure that the diff lock is fact not engaged and then proceeded to test the brakes. Al seemed in order so I decided to go for longer drive, once again everything was in order. Great all that remained is to do the wiring and installation of the compressor pump.

    Saturday morning:


    Unfortunately I wasnít able to get the diff lock ECU from Martin and the agents wanted R 1900 ex vat for the unit so I decided it isnít quite worth that for the dash lights to light up. My solution was quite simple get a toggle switch the type with a bright red light thatís on if the switch is in the on position. I installed the switch in the same position that the original switch goes. And bought a pilot light to show whether the diff lock is activated or not.

    I wired the switch for the compressor directly from the accessories power with a 5 amp fuse inline. As soon as the compressor reaches the pressure it needs to activate the diff lock it switches it self of but it maintains the pressure if necessary. And the pilot light receives its power from the compressor switch and runs trough the diff lock switch. So it should light up once the diff lock is locked. While installing the pilot light I dropped the globe so I havenít been able to check if this works as yet but I should be able to check that tonight.


    The diff lock works without problem and activates and de-activates at the push of a button. I was able to test the working on Sunday in field close to my home. Iím well chuffed with the results and will be going to Hennops this coming weekend to put the Pajero through itís paces and will then give some feedback on the improvement on ability.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Thanked: 0


    What did Martin rush you for the diff?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Thanked: 2


    Yea tell us!!

    Daihatsu Feroza
    1,8 (Toyota 7AGE) custom build
    20V silvertop head
    weber sidedraughts
    30' KL71 muds

    Platkar: Tucson CRDi
    Buell XB12

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Thanked: 20


    Martin charged R5500 for the diff. The diff lock switch was R 320 from the agents. And I paid around R 350 for the Diff oil and wiring from Autozone.

    So not a cheap mod but a lot better than the R 14k for an ARB locker.

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