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  1. #81
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    Talking Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Random Serengeti pictures ....
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    Last edited by Southerndreams; 2023/02/18 at 10:05 AM.

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  3. #82
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    Default Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Some more Serengeti pictures ....
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    Last edited by Southerndreams; 2023/02/18 at 10:27 AM.

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  5. #83
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    Wink Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    End of May 2022

    28. May 2022 - Lobo Area - Serengeti - Tanzania

    We're moving camp!
    First job of the day, grab a wheel spanner. We had a flat tire the day before and found out there was no wheel spanner, so Joaquim "is borrowing" one from a friend.
    That means we meet outside the camp for the handover. Otherwise, the friend's boss would assume he stole the wheel spanner.
    We leave a bit late but soon find our first predator, a leopard, in a tree with its prey. Sadly he's a bit far. But we found him and were alone with him.

    The highlight of the day is a pride of 6 lionesses with their cubs, leisurely snoozing along the track to Lobo.
    There's always the one that peeks out! The cub wants to play, but really nobody reacts to her attempt.
    With a "sorry to myself" looking face, the lion queen in the making squats down for a wee and goes back to sleep.
    Two lionesses greet us on the way up through the Lobo koppies.

    We're alone at the Lobo public campsite, so we think. But there's that one spot with cellphone reception right above us.
    There's always someone in need of communication sitting there.
    But it's miles away from the overcrowded Seronera public campsite.

    The kitchen compartment is very clean. It starts raining, and we're glad we can sit inside eating dinner together.

    Ablutions are brand new and absolutely clean but only provide cold water. The caretakers here at Lobo are proud of their work.

    Not much longer, and the Lobo private and public camps will be full to the brim with people coming here to see the great wildebeest migration once in their lives.
    We can hear hyenas and jackals calling in the distance, but no lions.
    We're the only campers, and except for one game drive vehicle with a few guests from Lobo Wildlife Lodge, we're all alone. Paradise!

    Stats of the day
    leopard with prey in a tree
    lion pride 14 - 8 cubs + 6 lionesses
    10 hyenas with carcass
    1 hyena bathing
    2 lionesses on a koppie near Lobo
    rock dassie
    klipspringer

    29. May 2022 - Serengeti - Lobo Area - Tanzania

    Kleins Gate
    We explore the area between Lobo and Klein's gate, see elephants for the first time in the Serengeti, and spot coke's hartebeest.
    Due to wet black cotton soil patches, most tracks towards the Sand river are either closed, overgrown or inaccessible.
    Tse Tse flies to pester us as soon as we open a window.

    The vehicle is giving us trouble, and soon some people appear to help.
    The one man with the skirt you see standing at the door seems to be a high-ranking official. He checks the permit, although they've been checked already by the local rangers.
    He's strange and creepy. He absolutely ignores us; aren't we the ones who pay his salary?

    We spend the afternoon cleaning, washing up, sleeping, and not going to another game drive. Our cookie finds some new girlfriends.

    It's still cold and rainy, and we decide to eat inside the kitchen again. The only occasion where cookie sat at the table with us having dinner.

    I've attached some pictures of the new ablutions. We were wondering how long it would take until they would be ruined.
    The entrance doors don't close properly, and some toilet seats are already missing.

    Pictures are mixed through.

    Despite the bad weather, we felt great at Lobo. Two nights were ok as most roads were not accessible.

    Stats of the day
    elephants
    4 black-backed jackals
    3 hyenas with carcass
    1 single hyena
    lioness sleeping hidden on a koppie
    cokes hartebeest
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    Last edited by Southerndreams; 2023/02/18 at 11:10 AM.

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  7. #84
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    Default Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    End of May 2022 - Serengeti Lobo and Seronera area

    30. May 2022

    Lions day! And hyenas!

    On our way back to Seronera, we spot over 22 lions, all in a short period. A real highlight is a beautiful male; he's just made a kill.
    Strangely, he pulls the carcass over a distance of about 300 m underneath a bush.
    Of course, he's already been detected by the vultures and the marabou storks.

    At a hippo lookout point, I spot a strange-looking bird of prey, but none of the guides can really point it out. Only later can I make it out; it's a lämmergeier!
    Stupidly, I didn't take any pictures with my Nikon, so I only have cellphone pics.

    Our last night in the Serengeti has begun. Tomorrow we'll have another long driving day back to Arusha. Time did fly, as always.

    Stats of the day
    15 Hyena some with a kill
    4 lionesses
    2 young lion males
    another male
    1 lion male and 1 lioness
    1 lion male on rock, lioness and x cubs
    4 lionesses with a kill
    2 lionesses on koppie
    male lion pulling a carcass
    2 lionesses on a tree
    10 bbj
    4 eland
    hippos
    crocs
    lämmergeier
    defassa waterbuck
    unidentified owl
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    Last edited by Southerndreams; 2023/02/18 at 11:43 AM.

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  9. #85
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    Default Re: Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Southerndreams

    that program you were using when the trip started - i forget the name of the program

    would you care to share why it's use was stopped

    cause it seemed to be a very nice and easy way to share with friends etc.

    thks

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  11. #86
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    Default Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Hi, it's called Polarsteps https://www.polarsteps.com/
    One reason was, it's not available on the Huawei app gallery. I've got the Huawei P 40+ because of the superior video quality.
    I installed it on hubbies phone, making it necessary to either take pics or videos with two phones or transfer them whenever I had time.

    That was still working when we travelled Botswana and Zambia, hubby drives and I write and post.
    But then, we entered Tanzania.
    In Tanzania, you need to constantly look for 50km zones, to avoid being stopped by police.
    After we've been stopped twice, we used Google maps to navigate and watch accurate speed.
    But that slowed my writing and posting down a lot.

    When we arrived in Daressalam, we spent some days at Jungle Junction.
    I was on to update the app, but then, it had stopped completely and people couldn't see the tracks at all.

    When I first used the app, you didn't need to open the it on the phone.
    After X updates I found out, you now needed to open the app first before driving.

    So I finally gave up on it.

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  13. #87
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    Default Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    End of May 2022 - Tanzania - Serengeti - Ngorogoro

    Serengeti Good By

    The last day of the month and the last day of the safari. We leave around 7. There's not much we see, just some hyenas and bbj's.
    On our way up to the Ngorongoro crater, we buy honey from stingless bees from Maasai women.
    Originally, we wanted to visit Olduvai gorge on the last day, but we're all exhausted. Plus, the car isn't in good shape.

    At the crater lookout point we take some last pics and off we limp, to a workshop somewhere near Arusha.
    Brakes have almost stopped working.
    Apart from that, the inverter also completely gave up, and I'm sure there's some more trouble coming for them.

    As usual, the payment via Mpesa slowes the process down for another half an hour.
    After more hours, dropping cookie and his last supplies, we finally arrive late in the dark at Twiga Lodge.

    A wonderful pizza made by Erica and Paul saves us from starving! Thank You.
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    Last edited by Southerndreams; 2023/02/19 at 04:39 PM.

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  15. #88
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    Default Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Tanzania - Ngorongoro - Serengeti - Arusha

    A day in the life of our organised Ngorongoro and Serengeti trip and some impressions, tips, and comments about the company, the camps and the crew

    We've never done such an organised safari and probably will never go again,
    but we wanted to return to Ngorongoro and Serengeti after more than a decade.
    And we didn't want to put more strain on our rig than necessary.

    What we have is more than a decade of self-drive safari.
    We knew what we wanted, and we did get it apart from a few things.

    The Daily Routine

    We didn't start the day at 7 after having breakfast (as everybody else does), but at 5:30 with only a coffee and leave camp at 6.
    This gave us the significant advantage of being almost alone on the game drive for about an hour or one and a half.

    The guys quickly settled into this routine. Cookie was lucky; he could sleep longer than usual and only needed to bring us hot water in the morning.
    Tables are set up the evening for each group separately inside the caged "dining room". The cooks don't eat with the guides and clients, so there are only 4 chairs.

    We always did let cookie know when we were about to return to camp, might be 11,12 or even 1. There's cellphone reception almost everywhere in the greater Seronera vicinity.
    After a good brunch, which we mostly ate outside the cage in the sun, everybody retreats to nap.
    After showering around 2, we had a quick coffee and returned on another game drive.

    Most chefs sleep inside the kitchen cages on the tiled benches in front of their cooking stations.
    Some of them own a little tent and mattress. Almost all chefs are Muslims, and men, they are subcontractors.

    The Seronera public campsite
    Seronera is THE hub of the Serengeti, where all low-budget tourists stay.
    There's no hot water and rarely toilet paper. Seronera is not only loud but also dirty.
    Due to the ban on plastic bags in Tanzania, all leftovers are stored in a single blue bin and various inevitable carton boxes.
    A big family of mongooses spends their entire lives around the kitchen, and hyenas frequent the back of the kitchen almost daily.

    Most groups only stay one night; there's constant coming and going, setting up and breaking down tents. Seronera IS a mess.
    Your booking is for a "Public Campsite" in the Serengeti, and there are other PS around. You can stay where you want.
    But these sites were even more untidy. The grass was not mowed, and we felt more unsafe.
    When we arrived at 1 at the campsite, the kitchen still had not been cleaned, and on the first or second evening, hyenas raided the bins during dinner, with us sitting not more than 10 m away.

    Food
    Despite the untidiness of the campsite, our cookie always managed to have very clean cutlery, plates, and utensils. The food was good, filling, rich and prepared fresh.

    Of course, we were careful with the meat as it's not kept in the fridge, only on ice (cookie says), but it was mostly chicken and beef stews cooked very hot.
    I preferred rather not to look into the various carton boxes. Some minced meat didn't smell fresh, so we left these dishes out.
    We always got fresh popcorn or sometimes some freshly baked rolls, a nice soup and a main course and fruits like watermelon, oranges, pineapple or bananas.

    Well, there comes the fridge and the ice question
    We had ordered ice when we did the deal. In our well-trained overlander's minds, we expected the meat inside the fridge and the ice bags on top. Well, we were wrong!
    After we had set up the camp for the first time at the Ngorongoro crater, we looked into the fridge, and it was - EMPTY!

    I don't want to go too deep into the topic, but Paul organised some little ice cubes at Simba A camp (from a tray), but there was NO MORE ICE after that.
    Joaquim tried his best to organise ice. We drive to every tuck shop around Seronera, but to no avail. He managed to get a half-frozen bottle of water from his friends at Balloon camp, but that was it.
    And we had left two bags at Twiga Lodge...
    We survived, but we really didn't expect this kind of setback.

    Firewood
    There was no firewood as we had ordered it. But that was ok. In most evenings, no fire was lit.
    According to Tanapa, the park's caretakers are supposed to provide firewood, but the environment is fragile, and we didn't insist on a fire.
    There was a communal fire at Simba A at the Ngorongoro crater. A group of lousy danish travellers left the Seronera camp at 8 pm and came back with several big tree trunks.
    They lit a huge fire, drank a lot and left the fire burning until the next morning.

    Game Drives
    As I said above, the clients at Seronera are mostly very young people. There are many lodges, tented camps, and more tour operators' vehicles.
    They all use the same kind of vehicles, Landcruisers that have been extended to take 4 rows of seats for max 9 guests.

    Only a handful of operators use the shorter Landrovers, mostly high-end accommodations that drive with only 2 guests; the vehicles varnished glossy, the driver-guides sometimes with ridiculous uniforms and topees.

    Each tour operator's vehicle is equipped with a radio. And, of course, each driver has a minimum of 1 cell phone.
    Whoever spots a sight-worthy animal (e.g. any kill, lion, cheetah, leopard, hyena ...) calls the others. The colleagues then speed to the location...
    After our first afternoon drive, we told our guys that the radio had to be silent from now.
    We would have to find cheetahs, leopards and lions on our own from tomorrow. Of course, we sometimes bumped into a sighting with cars around, which is not avoidable.

    What one can't impede are drivers from meeting other drivers they know/are friends. In that case, the meeting can go from 2 to 15 minutes, depending on whether you push forward.

    Car Equipment etc.
    We had no compressor, no tyre repair sets and no wheel spanner.
    The car's cigarette lighter did not, and we could not use our Garmin (Mainly used to determine the time we'd left before we needed to get back into camp).
    We needed to use the inverter to charge our phones; luckily, Paul had a matching plug.
    Only on our second day at Seronera we discovered USB connectors in the kitchen building in lockable compartments.
    There were also wall plugs, but these were charging only at a very slow rate.

    The car wasn't really cleaned in the 9 days. We collected the empty bottles in a box once a day.
    While we were in the park, the filling station was broken down to be rebuilt; thus, there was no fuel.
    The Landcruiser had two tanks, but money was tight, and they had filled up only one tank at Karatu.
    That stopped us from exploring the Western Corridor early, searching for the migration.
    Joachim managed to organise a 20 l can with Diesel, but that was it.

    The guys brought no toilet paper, but this is caused by the east african way of them cleaning with water from a pipe next to the toilet seat.
    We had brought enough serviettes and tissues, so not a problem.

    The other campsites
    I've written about the Lobo Public Campsite already. We were the only people there; it was clean, but who wonders?
    Simba A campsite at the crater rim surprised us positively. There was hot water, and bottles and plastic stuff were collected separately.
    Despite being full at 60%, ablutions were not too untidy. The company that manages the coffee truck inside the crater also runs a coffee shop at the campsite.

    What did we pay?
    We discussed prices upfront with Erica from Twiga Lodge and also asked he advice about how much tip to give.
    We paid US$ 5500 for the both of us, including everything, guides, driver, vehicle, tents etc.
    We never received a tax receipt. For every amount you pay in Tanzania, whether in cash or with a credit card, you receive a separate tax receipt containing all company details. Quite a clever thing!
    Only in three cases did we not get one, the safari, while we bought the spare bearings and while we had our fridge regassed in Arusha.

    We had calculated that would have paid US$ 3600 only for the fees and Diesel if we would self-drive.
    As advised by Erica, we gave each guy between 12 and 15 US$ tips daily.
    Additionally, I bought both Paul and Joaquim a guidebook at about US$ 50 each.

    What else?
    The team was great, and we had lots of fun. I had known Paul from Facebook before. He is a lovely bright young man at the beginning of his guiding career. And he's got eagle eyes.
    Joachim is the senior of the two. He's married, has children and is very career focussed. In his spare time, he learns German.
    He has understood that diversification and sound knowledge are key to success.

    Our only fundamental mistake was that it was too early in the season. A good 4 weeks later would have made things much better.
    Would we do it again? I don't know. Ask me in 2024 when were planning to go back...

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  17. #89
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    Default Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Beginning of June 2022 Tanzania - Arusha - Simba Farm on the slopes of the Kilimanjaro

    Kilimanjaro Blessings

    We spend 2 more nights at the Twiga lodge in Arusha, washing, cleaning and relaxing.

    One night we encounter an elephant not more than 300 m away from our campsite. Amazing!

    And off we go towards Kenya. Amboseli, Tsavo and especially the Maasai Mara are waiting.

    We circumnavigate the famous Kilimanjaro on our way to Simba Farm, another gem we found in a well-run Facebook group (DriveTan).
    We're lucky to get a short glimpse of the snowy, icy mountain peak.
    Simba Farm is simply a-ma-zing.

    We book for the three-course meal, buy fruits, and veggies grown at the lodge's garden and also grab beautiful honey.

    Camp is quickly set up, and we enjoy a hot shower. After a relaxing afternoon and a leisurely stroll through the farm grounds, we return to the lodge for dinner.

    A bonfire is lit, we chat with other visitors, and time flies.

    The pictures of the dinner will speak for themselves. Our all-time favourites, chapatis come in time for the first course and chicken wings with potatoes and baked cauliflower are a great second course.
    The dessert tops it all, homemade ice cream.

    Portions are generous, and the sunset is spectacular. What else do we need?

    I don't remember how much we paid for the dinner, but it was really reasonably priced, especially the wine. We mustn't forget the Fairview wine estate is 5000 km south of the Simba farm.

    We are really tempted to stay a second night. Why oh, why didn't we do that?

    https://shawsafaris.co.tz/about-us/

    https://simbafarmlodge.co.tz/
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  19. #90
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    Default Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Beginning of June 2022 - Tanzania - Kenya - Amboseli National Park

    Oloitokitok Border Nightmare


    The Kilimanjaro shows up, we can see it from the Simba campsite, and we decide to cross the border to Kenya and travel to the Amboseli.

    This day turned out to be the second worst on our trip, and be warned, the worst day also happened to take place at the Oloitokitok border post.

    In our first attempt to reach the border post, we take the wrong turn and end up illegally in Kenya around mid-day.
    The direction some locals point out gets us to a green border crossing, the track is so tight we can't turn with our rig. But not a problem, we safely get back out of the country again.

    Sometime later, we finally find the right border post. But now, it's already after 10 o'clock.
    Checking out of Tanzania is pretty fast. A mistake made with the TIP at the small border post we used to get into Tanzania is quickly resolved and free of charge. Our caravan was simply not registered with their system.

    From there, a runner sticks to us like a tick. Despite telling him several times we wouldn't pay anything, he glues on us, for 3.5 hours.

    Kenya immigration moans because we haven't done E-visas.
    Now, they need to do some work, check our dollar notes, and so on. But ok, they finally must let us in.
    Then, I try to find a toilet. Big mistake to leave hubby alone!

    In the meantime, he goes on getting car and caravan into the country to get our carnets stamped and to arrange for the TIPs (temporary import permits).
    When I return from my toilet expedition, he's already in a heated discussion with an official.
    I try to intervene, but hubbie's hearing isn't the best, his English isn't the best, and we both hardly understand the guy through the glass window. The guy immediately turns to me, he would not tolerate me talking to him!
    But the carnet for the caravan is in my name. The Mitsubishi is on hubbies name.

    The official and the tick:
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    The official is not able to give us more than a month for the vehicles (we've got 3-month visas). We later find out it's not a problem, but he insisted on classifying us as commercial.
    He struggles to find a category for the caravan, which is pretty easy, I will also find out later. He fills the wrong lines in one of the carnets. A mess.
    After 3 hours, we finally got a document. But we need to pay for the TIPs in a shady shack first before we can finally enter the country.
    Not without getting the official's name and phone number because he filled the carnet out wrong on the first attempt.

    We finally leave the border post at 4 o'clock, leaving an infidel-looking unpaid runner staring at us. We head towards Kimana village.

    We can't find a sim card, nor can we draw money. Nor fill up and pay with a credit card. 2 campsites listed on IOverlander don't exist any more.
    Could it get worse?

    Last but not least, the C103 that leads towards the Amboseli National Park is under construction, and we stumble almost blind along dusty side roads with the sun setting in front of us.

    With the last lights, we reach Kimana community camp next to the Kimana gate into the Amboseli National Park.
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    Last edited by Southerndreams; 2023/02/27 at 09:28 AM.

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  21. #91
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    Default Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Beginning of June 2022 - Kenya - Lake Amboseli National Park - Kimana Community Camp

    Amboseli Draught - Life and Death
    After a relaxing morning at the Kimana Community Camp, we enter the National park around midday.
    Thankfully one can enter the park twice over 24 hours.
    We've been at the park before, but every time it is breathtaking to view the ice-capped Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa's highest peak, in the backdrop.
    At the same time, iconic elephants feed on reeds in the swamps, standing in water, almost covering their shoulders.

    Amboseli derives from a Maasai word meaning "salty dust", and yes, it is dusty everywhere. The mossevereus drought has hit the area since 2009.

    In May 2009, over 150.000 cattle had moved into the Amboseli region from across southern Kenya and northern Tanzania. The influx doubled the resident cattle population and used up the surplus grazing.
    The outlook quickly worsened. The long rains in April and May were poor, and Amboseli faced tougher and long dry season.
    Pasture conditions were worsening rapidly, and three-quarters of the cattle, two-thirds of sheep and goats, over ninety-five per cent of the wildebeest and two-thirds of the zebras died of starvation.

    The swamps and marshes are fed by melting ice from Kilimanjaro's slopes, but in the meantime, the high mountain prevents rain from coming from Tanzania.

    Despite the park being less than 400 sqm small, birdlife is iconic. There are no trees, and fish eagles must start from little heaps on the ground.
    Flamingoes, pelicans, giant herons, lily trotter, squacco herons, spoonbills, you name them. And hyenas are EVERYWHERE. They love to stay in the channels leading over the tracks.
    Nowhere else we've seen wildebeest walking through water. But the draught is looming, and we see quite a good number of carcasses.

    The dilapidated Amboseli Lodge, with the avenue of dead trees leading towards her, makes good non-animal photo props.

    The stay at Kimana Camp is quite pleasant, of course, the toilets, showers and restaurant bar aren't comparable with South African standards, but the guys really try to do their best.
    The campsite is almost private, and shady, ablutions are nearby, away from the bare spot of the overlanding groups and the restaurant.
    We enjoy the camp and 2 days become 3, become 4 days.

    The next morning we enter at 6 o'clock. The permit is still valid, and it doesn't take long to check-in.
    This day is really one of the best days we had during this 8 months safari.

    We spot our first-ever african civet. It leisurely walks along the track, minding his business, 2 hyenas shortly try to get to him but soon lose interest and go on with their greeting ritual.
    Like always, when you have a super sighting, the light isn't that good.

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    Another first is the bohoor reedbuck. With his strong back legs, which are higher than his front legs, he's perfectly adapted to life here in the swamps.
    A hippo is happily munching in the shallow marsh, and buffaloes stand in the water that reaches their bellies.
    A mother thompson gazelle licks her just-born baby dry, while 50 m further on, white-backed and lappet-faced vultures fight over a dead wildebeest, and a marabou stork guards a dead buffalo.
    Life and death are rarely so close to each other.
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    Last edited by Southerndreams; 2023/02/27 at 02:50 PM.

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  23. #92
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    Default Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Amboseli's iconic elephants feeding in the swamps in front of the ice Capps of the Kilimanjaro.
    The dilapidated Amboseli Lodge. The map I bought in 2009 already shows the lodge being out of business.

    The little school building, we visited the school in 2009.

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    Last edited by Southerndreams; 2023/02/27 at 02:43 PM.

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  25. #93
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    Default Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Beginning of June 2022 - Kenya - Amboseli - Tsavo East

    A quick trip to Tsavo East

    A decade ago we camped in a canvas ground tent at Ndolo Public Campsite.
    It was a thrilling week!
    The first days we enjoyed the presence of several of the iconic dark red coloured Tsavo elephants.
    They were very peaceful and obviously used to the humans walking around and joining their living spaces.
    Apart from a nasty big black scorpion at the bathroom door, there were no threats. No day visitors, no caretaker. Paradise!

    We were all on our own when a big solitary lion male killed a baby elephant inside of the camp area, thankfully on a spot the most furthest away from us.
    Three days in a row, each night, a battle between the lion and numerous hyenas ensued. On the second day after the kill, I managed to take one half decent pic of the lion, from the car window.
    He was absolutely aggressive, he charged at everything moving around him. Every day, the smell became more bad.

    We spent our days exploring the park, did a day drive into Tsavo West, while at night, we were alone with the lion and the kill.
    Well, until the local guides discovered it and started driving around to find him. That's when we finally left.

    This time, we stay at the newly developed Simba Lodge campsite in Voi, just a few km outside of the park.

    The wider Tsavo-Amboseli area was experiencing the biggest draught since 2009.
    Similar to Amboseli, many of the elephants had left the area, searching elsewhere for food and water and we only find one solitary elephant bull, a decent sized tusker and a small breeding herd.

    We enjoy a buffet lunch at the Aruba Ashnil Lodge and decide to revisit Tsavo at another time.
    After three nights and two days at the park, turn back towards Nairobi.
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    Last edited by Southerndreams; 2023/03/03 at 10:59 AM.

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  27. #94
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    Default Re: Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Lovely tusker.
    Enjoying your report.
    The fee that TANAPA charges for the vehicle seems to depend on who is behind the counter. I understand the wish to stop Kenyan operators taking away local business but when you realise that the local tour operators pay USD300 for the season, USD150 per day is hard to swallow and is a real barrier.
    Tanapa would not loose revenue if lower vehicle fee. We all have a budget and charging less per day for the vehicle allows one to stay longer.

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  29. #95
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    Default Re: Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Quote Originally Posted by SANZ View Post
    Lovely tusker.
    Enjoying your report.
    The fee that TANAPA charges for the vehicle seems to depend on who is behind the counter. I understand the wish to stop Kenyan operators taking away local business but when you realise that the local tour operators pay USD300 for the season, USD150 per day is hard to swallow and is a real barrier.
    Tanapa would not loose revenue if lower vehicle fee. We all have a budget and charging less per day for the vehicle allows one to stay longer.
    Yes, SANZ, absolutely correct. On our forthcoming trip to East Africa we have approximately 20 nights planned for Tanzanian parks. At an additional $110 per night (charged either $150 or $40) our costs increase by an additional $2,000. We are looking at significantly reducing days in Tanzania and spending longer in Kenyan Parks/Coastal sites. As I've mentioned on other sites the authorities choose what they want to charge, we decide how to spend our funds.
    John 2021 Prado GXL 2.8 (Australia) & 2017 Land Cruiser 79 D/Cab + Alucab Ossewa "Hagrid" (Africa)
    Badger 4i BL1677 "Kamba 2" (Australia)
    "I never knew of a morning in Africa when I woke up and was not happy" - Ernest Hemingway

    Kgalagadi 2019 Namibia 2019 Gonarezhou 2019 Mana/Tafika 2018 Kgalagadi 2017 Lion, Hippo, Eland Leguaan, Python

  30. #96
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    Default Re: Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    The Tanzanian parks are a wonder to behold - from chimpanzee trekking on Lake Tanganyika to the remote Katavi NP: from the rarely visited western Tanzania to the world-famous Serengeti NP and the Ngorongoro crater: from the gem of the northern parks, Tarangire NP, to Lake Manyara NP: from “the Garden of God” on the Kitulo plateau NP to the baobabs of remote Ruaha NP: from the intrepid Selous (now renamed Nyerere NP) to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Kilwa Kisawani.

    And that is before one mentions the glaciers of Kilimanjaro, the Eastern Arc ranges of Udzungwa, Uluguru, East Usambara, West Usambara, N and S Pare Mountains, and the white beaches of the Indian Ocean.

    Despite being a Kenyan by birth, I will never knock Tanzania. It is a wonderful country with so much to do and see.
    Last edited by Wazungu Wawili; 2023/03/14 at 02:23 AM.

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  32. #97
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    Default Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    The rules are very clear, up to 2000 kg, foreign registered, US$ 40.
    Next class starts from 2001 kg.
    Our vehicle papers state, the weight is 2000 kg.

    While we received first class treatment in every other Tanzanian park, this special employee treated us with utter disrespect, as if we were liars.
    When we arrived, he received a copy of our registration file.

    We even went with him to show him the disk on our windscreen. Very clever, he thought he could blame headquarters.

    We later learned that he is known as a very difficult person,
    demanding registration documents, every time tour operators enter the park to deliver goods etc.
    Last edited by Southerndreams; 2023/03/14 at 02:58 PM.

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  34. #98
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    Default Re: Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Quote Originally Posted by Southerndreams View Post

    ...In the meantime, he goes on getting car and caravan into the country to get our carnets stamped and to arrange for the TIPs (temporary import permits). When I return from my toilet expedition, he's already in a heated discussion with an official.
    I try to intervene, but hubbie's hearing isn't the best, his English isn't the best, and we both hardly understand the guy through the glass window. The guy immediately turns to me, he would not tolerate me talking to him! But the carnet for the caravan is in my name. The Mitsubishi is on hubbies name. The official is not able to give us more than a month for the vehicles (we've got 3-month visas). We later find out it's not a problem, but he insisted on classifying us as commercial. He struggles to find a category for the caravan, which is pretty easy, I will also find out later. He fills the wrong lines in one of the carnets. A mess. After 3 hours, we finally got a document. But we need to pay for the TIPs in a shady shack first before we can finally enter the country.
    I think I need some education please. In most countries you need EITHER a CdP OR a TIP, not both. It's been a while however when we've entered Kenya in the past we've used our CdP and did not need a TIP.

    Has this changed?

  35. #99
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    Default Re: Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Quote Originally Posted by alannymarce View Post
    I think I need some education please. In most countries you need EITHER a CdP OR a TIP, not both. It's been a while however when we've entered Kenya in the past we've used our CdP and did not need a TIP.

    Has this changed?
    I think it was the Foreign Vehicle Permit which is in addition to the CdP. Please see this (which I think is still valid) https://www.kra.go.ke/news-center/pu...ehicle-permits

    Webster is currently in Kenya and they said they breezed through Oloitokitok (the same border as Southerndreams used). Perhaps Webster will be able to confirm what paperwork they needed for Kenya?

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  37. #100
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    Default Re: Epic East Africa Trip 2022

    Quote Originally Posted by Wazungu Wawili View Post
    I think it was the Foreign Vehicle Permit which is in addition to the CdP. Please see this (which I think is still valid) https://www.kra.go.ke/news-center/pu...ehicle-permits

    Webster is currently in Kenya and they said they breezed through Oloitokitok (the same border as Southerndreams used). Perhaps Webster will be able to confirm what paperwork they needed for Kenya?
    That is correct, all foreign vehicles require a Foreign Vehicle Permit, regardless of carnet. Essentially a road tax. Default is that these are issued for 2 weeks and must be renewed. We asked and they allowed us to get one for 30 days for $42 dollars. They told us this needs to be renewed in Nairobi, but you can renew it at some (but not all) other KRA offices around the country.

    We made a tenuous deal with Jamez, who runs one of those small shacks by the border with a printer and a computer. He processes paperwork for trucks and other cross border stuff. He gave us his number, took our information told us to WhatsApp him a couple days before our month was up. We did, and he renewed the FVP for us (which he can do at the border, he has access to the system somehow. A cargo agent maybe?) and we paid him via Mpesa. This meant we didn't have to brave the offices in Nairobi, no build our whole itinerary around being in Nairobi at the end of our initial 30 days.
    Blog of our African travels: stuckinlowgear.com

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