Disco 1 300tdi oil usage

[Kudus]

Hello everyone

Need some advice. The car is using more and more oil. Did Khutse to Piper with no oil used and the from there I had to add 500ml at Deception camp. Drove 700km home and had to add oil again. Car doesn’t smoke more than just accelerating and cold start. Head gasket was done 2000km ago but the “reputable” workshop did not set the valves correctly and brushed me off. Had it set by someone else.

Car did not use much oil before the head gasket went.

Could it be the rings? I have a little bit of blowback but the cap is not blown off.
I use Ravenol 15W40 mineral oil.

[jfh]

Mine generally doesn't use oil but when heavily loaded and pushing it a bit, I tend to see an increase in oil consumption.

[Kudus]

Mine generally doesn't use oil but when heavily loaded and pushing it a bit, I tend to see an increase in oil consumption.

So unloaded no issues? Come to think of it I did have a bit of above my average usage before the trip as well.

[Eighty2_ZA]

On our defender it was the rear crank seal causing high oil usage. Ours gradually started using more oil and I started thinking it's burning it up because there was no apparent leak that I could see. Eventually it was using 500ml+ oil per 400km with no excess smoke or anything. And then it started covering the rear door and windows in oil mist/spray on the open road. After replacing it the defender hardly uses any oil

[Kudus]

On our defender it was the rear crank seal causing high oil usage. Ours gradually started using more oil and I started thinking it's burning it up because there was no apparent leak that I could see. Eventually it was using 500ml+ oil per 400km with no excess smoke or anything. And then it started covering the rear door and windows in oil mist/spray on the open road. After replacing it the defender hardly uses any oil

Thank you for this. I do have a leak as well in my rear crank seal but its not leaving puddles under the car.

Had a check today and there was quite a bit of oil in the intake pipe to the turbo (something like that).

[RossJ]

Kudos

On the driver side of the motor - about in the middle is a black cylinder - called an oil separator

the bottom has a pipe that drains back into the sump and the other one goes around the back to connect to the intake pipe you mentioned

take that oil seperator out , disconnect the pipes and give it a good clean with paraffin or similar

That can get all gooey and block up a bit

make SURE that the black cylinder has not even a smell of whatever you use to clean it with before you put it back

Then also clean that top pipe that connects to the intake pipe as well - so any residual oil in it doesnt cloud your judgement going forward

Make EXTRA EXTRA sure that there isnt a wiff of whatever you used to clean that with else you will see 4 00 gazillion rpm on that motor

Then that oil residue could have been there for ages - the intake stuff I mean

While you at it pull the bottom pipe as well just to make sure it isnt blocked or crimped where it joins the block / sump

[Hagu13]

Turbo might be on the way out.
Take off pipe from airbox to turbo and inspect impeller with phone camera for wear, and wiggle turbo shaft side to side and in and out looking for looseness
Also look at the pipe you took off. Lots of oil in there indicates it's from the breather indicating rings. A little oil (there will always be some) indicates a good motor

If turbo, just do a cheap cartridge. Under 2k

[Kudus]

Thanks a lot for the advice!! Appreciate it. Will have a look at it for sure

[Kudus]

Kudos

On the driver side of the motor - about in the middle is a black cylinder - called an oil separator

the bottom has a pipe that drains back into the sump and the other one goes around the back to connect to the intake pipe you mentioned

take that oil seperator out , disconnect the pipes and give it a good clean with paraffin or similar

That can get all gooey and block up a bit

make SURE that the black cylinder has not even a smell of whatever you use to clean it with before you put it back

Then also clean that top pipe that connects to the intake pipe as well - so any residual oil in it doesnt cloud your judgement going forward

Make EXTRA EXTRA sure that there isnt a wiff of whatever you used to clean that with else you will see 4 00 gazillion rpm on that motor

Then that oil residue could have been there for ages - the intake stuff I mean

While you at it pull the bottom pipe as well just to make sure it isnt blocked or crimped where it joins the block / sump

So I replaced the Syclone breather, cleaned the pipe that runs down into the engine block. The pipe that runs into the intake spits oil out while running. Just to see if there is a blockage I blew down the pipe running into the engine block and I could hear the bubbles. Isn't the oil supposed to be running back into the sump from where it enters the engine block again? It seems to be gathered where it enters the engine block. I can only see black smoke when accelerating and no white or blue smoke. I cannot see an oil leak anywhere. But tested car again and oil was gone after 400km of highway driving.

[Kudus]

Turbo was reconned 3 weeks ago.

[jelo]

So you're getting oil coming out of the positive crankcase vent valve pipe to the inlet manifold? And you're still using oil?

This is caused by excessive crank pressure. This is caused by bad rings or glazed cylinders. The reworked head has increased this effect as you now have more compression.

Sorry.

[Sam vd Merwe]

Just to stir a little. The is a kit that takes it to 2.8 ltr.

[jelo]

Just to stir a little. The is a kit that takes it to 2.8 ltr.

https://www.mdengineering.co.uk/inte...-2-8l-300-tdi/

[jfh]

Just to stir a little. The is a kit that takes it to 2.8 ltr.

I know of one or two blokes that has both and their opinion is a 300Tdi with a uprated turbo is cheaper for the same performance.

[jelo]

Rentec's reputation has dipped a bit. That being said....probably better than a corner workshop. Let LRextreme advise you.

[Kudus]

Rentec's reputation has dipped a bit. That being said....probably better than a corner workshop. Let LRextreme advise you.

Thanks Jelo. So is it possible to re-sleeve an engine that's been re-bored before?

[jelo]

Thanks Jelo. So is it possible to re-sleeve an engine that's been re-bored before?

Oh absolutely. They just rebored the existing sleeve.

The process now is to press out the old sleeves, heat the block, chill the new sleeves and join them by force.
Then mill the block and sleeve face, and off you go (with another 100 steps as per the workshop manual).

This is a sleeve:

[Sam vd Merwe]

Oh absolutely. They just rebored the existing sleeve.

The process now is to press out the old sleeves, heat the block, chill the new sleeves and join them by force.
Then mill the block and sleeve face, and off you go (with another 100 steps as per the workshop manual).

This is a sleeve:

That sounds easy like you described it. But its a complex job. Lol

[jelo]

That sounds easy like you described it. But its a complex job. Lol

Yes, and it needs a proper engineering shop...........

LRExtreme will farm it out. That includes hone or bore to standard oversize spec.

[Kudus]

That sounds easy like you described it. But its a complex job. Lol

LOL, yes sure but Jelo knows how limited my knowledge is by now so he has to break it down real simple for me to get it