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[Toxxyc]

Yep, I don't want to go and buy a tool just for a single use. I'm not that type.

[Toxxyc]

OK so I have almost completely set my mind on electricity, but now I have to go do the maths.

Electric:
Element Ferrule: R300
2" Ferrule to weld to the keg: R95
Cutting and welding (quote from local place): R450
Bottom drain nipple, 1/2" SS: R33
Bottom drain ball valve, 1/2" SS: R135
Geyser element: ~R300, depending on size and where and whatnot
Temperature controller: R500 seems to be a good bet
Total: R1,813

Gas:
Bottom drain nipple, 1/2" SS: R33
Bottom drain ball valve, 1/2" SS: R135
Cutting and welding (quote from local place): R200
Gas burner table: R429
Bullnose regulator and 2m hose: R199
Total: R996

Wow, that's almost half the price. I can always go electric in the future, so yeah I'm going to stick with the gas for now. Besides, then I have a gas burner I've always wanted, so win-win.

[ColeGP]

Out of interest, why you want to spend money on a drain nipple and valve? Just syphon the leftovers out once you done.

[Toxxyc]

Out of interest, why you want to spend money on a drain nipple and valve? Just syphon the leftovers out once you done.

Some of the stuff in the kettle I'd like to be able to get out while it's still boiling. Also, a full 50l keg is a bitch to move, so just being able to link up a piece of silicone hose and draining it out that way is a lot nicer.

Finally, when making rum, I want to save some of the dunder post-distillation. For that, I'm probably going to have to wait for the dunder to cool down in the keg, after which the yeast should settle and I'll be able to draw clear dunder using the valve at the bottom. That can then be used to flavour the distillate for a nice rum.

[Rudi_C]

Some of the stuff in the kettle I'd like to be able to get out while it's still boiling. Also, a full 50l keg is a bitch to move, so just being able to link up a piece of silicone hose and draining it out that way is a lot nicer.

Finally, when making rum, I want to save some of the dunder post-distillation. For that, I'm probably going to have to wait for the dunder to cool down in the keg, after which the yeast should settle and I'll be able to draw clear dunder using the valve at the bottom. That can then be used to flavour the distillate for a nice rum.

You won't have 50L in the keg, even before you start. You'll need some headroom, so maybe 40L or so.

Not sure why you'd want to drain hot liquid, but when cold or cooler, you could remove the column and turn the keg upside down to drain.

Interesting ideas here, glad I found this thread

[ColeGP]

I know benson did quite a few stills and columns, maybe pop him a pm and see if he has any advice.

[WAJ]

We would like to see some pictures - all this technical talk is way over my head

[Andrew Leigh]

OK so I have almost completely set my mind on electricity, but now I have to go do the maths.

Electric:
Element Ferrule: R300
2" Ferrule to weld to the keg: R95
Cutting and welding (quote from local place): R450
Bottom drain nipple, 1/2" SS: R33
Bottom drain ball valve, 1/2" SS: R135
Geyser element: ~R300, depending on size and where and whatnot
Temperature controller: R500 seems to be a good bet
Total: R1,813

Gas:
Bottom drain nipple, 1/2" SS: R33
Bottom drain ball valve, 1/2" SS: R135
Cutting and welding (quote from local place): R200
Gas burner table: R429
Bullnose regulator and 2m hose: R199
Total: R996

Wow, that's almost half the price. I can always go electric in the future, so yeah I'm going to stick with the gas for now. Besides, then I have a gas burner I've always wanted, so win-win.

You have to be very vigilant with gas. Very slight breezes can easily blow the flame out. Fit a mirror or something so that you can always view if there is flame.

[Toxxyc]

I've decided on going electric. I found a professional still builder who's going to help me with the info and whatnot and I'm going to do it right. I'll be fitting a geyser element (3kW) to the bottom of the keg, as well as a 1/2" nipple so I can fit that ball valve. I want a drain. The only way to draw dunder or backwash and store it safely is to do it at boiling hot.

If money allows, I'll also be fitting a 4" ferrule at the top of the keg for access to the insides. Not specifically for cleaning, but mostly for quicker filling.

[Andrew Leigh]

I've decided on going electric. I found a professional still builder who's going to help me with the info and whatnot and I'm going to do it right. I'll be fitting a geyser element (3kW) to the bottom of the keg, as well as a 1/2" nipple so I can fit that ball valve. I want a drain. The only way to draw dunder or backwash and store it safely is to do it at boiling hot.

If money allows, I'll also be fitting a 4" ferrule at the top of the keg for access to the insides. Not specifically for cleaning, but mostly for quicker filling.

On a previous quote. "Dry" products are normally a result of too little sugar. On dry white wine they arrest the fermentation process to stop the sugars developing fully. Dry is actually another term for "not sweet".

[Andrew Leigh]

Yesterday I bought a 4" Ferrule but am undecided on if I will fit it to my 30l keg. Firstly my forearm does not go all the way through for cleaning and secondly I only actually need a 2" port for refilling. Lastly you need to cut away the keg side to allow the welding on the bottom side of the ferrule, the 50l keg is about the same diameter so that mean the problem will be the same.

I tested a 5" ferrule it is way better if you want access to hand wash the inside. It is large and will be tight on the keg, not sure if the tri-clamp will fit in the space.

[Toxxyc]

Thanks for the note on the 4" ferrule. I'm still in two minds about it, but if it's cheap enough, it'll be fine. Because the still is boiled to crap, I actually don't need the stuff to be welded on the inside as well. It's being sterilized while I boil, and for the rest, some form of brewery cleaner or something would be fine.

On a previous quote. "Dry" products are normally a result of too little sugar. On dry white wine they arrest the fermentation process to stop the sugars developing fully. Dry is actually another term for "not sweet".

Yes, I'm aware of this, thanks, but not entirely sure how it relates to my post

[Andrew Leigh]

Out of interest, why you want to spend money on a drain nipple and valve? Just syphon the leftovers out once you done.

So much more efficient, for cleaning as well. If you have a 30l keh with 100l wash trust me it is a great thing to have.

[Andrew Leigh]

Thanks for the note on the 4" ferrule. I'm still in two minds about it, but if it's cheap enough, it'll be fine. Because the still is boiled to crap, I actually don't need the stuff to be welded on the inside as well. It's being sterilized while I boil, and for the rest, some form of brewery cleaner or something would be fine.



Yes, I'm aware of this, thanks, but not entirely sure how it relates to my post

I though you mentioned some of your distillate tasted "dry"?

[Searcher]

The still I built, works great.

[WAJ]

This also does seem like a good price for a 50L professional still

https://www.zebrabraai.co.za/product/mampoer-ketel-50l/

But ja can one just pay the money and buy one of these, or are there red government tape to be dealt with or maybe a license requirement?

[GaryFrank]

This is the last one I built-100lt keg....getting 18lts shine outta every run

[Toxxyc]

I though you mentioned some of your distillate tasted "dry"?

Oh. I'm not sure where, but it's not impossible. I have a 3-week old baby in the house alongside a 2-year old so sleep is a luxury I don't have.

The still I built, works great.

Stupid question, but why the Liebig and the coil?

This also does seem like a good price for a 50L professional still

https://www.zebrabraai.co.za/product/mampoer-ketel-50l/

But ja can one just pay the money and buy one of these, or are there red government tape to be dealt with or maybe a license requirement?

For R11k I can build one hell of a still, looking at the prices of components these days. Yes it looks nice, but that's not a big thing for me. I think mine will looks nice as well - because I DIY'ed it

This is the last one I built-100lt keg....getting 18lts shine outta every run

That's awesome. That's REALLY awesome!

[Andrew Leigh]

I should have taken the photo with less clutter in the background.

[Andrew Leigh]

Toxxyc,

you may want to seriously consider making you still modular at this point. This will make your life much easier later on if you wanted to expand your distilling.

I started with the goal of making Whisky and hence the pot still. This in hindsight was rather ambitious as there is so much to learn before one gets there.

So I have been making Gin for which one obviously requires a really nice neutral spirit base to work from. The pot still does not deliver the degree of neutral I require. So assuming one cuts off the run early enough to give an average of 60% ABV in the neutral there by implication is still 40% of the wash that comes through. While this may be great Whisky or Rum it is not where I want to be now.

So I built my still to be able to convert into a CCVM still. You will see a blanking plate on the top of my column to which the copper tube for the reflex column would be added. What I did not realise at the time that this was not modular enough and that I would require a sight glass, more column length, more options etc.

So I am busy cutting and inserting tri-clover fitting where I see and option to change something. When done I can run my still as a reflux still getting 95% ABV or as a pot still.

My plan is to be able to, with minimum fuss and component changes;
- strip my wash fast through the pot still.
- do a spirit run through the CCVM reflux column.
- dilute back to 43% ABV and infuse with Gin botanicals.
- do a final run of the infusion through the pot still to retain the desired flavours.

Just a thought.