A very good reference point is The Road Chose Me YouTube channel. You will get great insights to allsorts of overlanding issues.
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Wow, thanks a ton for this detailed post and links! super useful and I think you have, as many others have said as well now, kinda convinced me to keep it stock at first, and see with time what is missing or what I would like and then add more..
Damn that LC 200 is nice, but the new ones are a bit pricey for me... I have to choose between a fortuner or a LC 76/79 ... although I would love to have a new LC200
Last edited by flyfisherman; 2021/01/21 at 10:12 PM.
A very good reference point is The Road Chose Me YouTube channel. You will get great insights to allsorts of overlanding issues.
Should I tell you how I did prepare myself before buying? I was camping last time as I was 12 years old, together with my Parents (T2 VW camper). So no current experiences.
I did start to read travelblogs in detail, any available travelblog out of the transafrica by 4x over the west.. Because my Plans was to do a african roundtrip. I did read in detail any day they did write down.
Thoose with Tents/RTT/Sleeping Inside - did wrote what works and what not. After days of rain you can read how they feel, what they did lika and what not.
Then I did try to think through - how would I like/dislike what happens? How can the experience get changed to a better way? How have it to looks like, to fit into my plans?
I did it completely theoretically. Did plan to sleep inside, did plan the details, how much heigth is necessary above the matress and anything else.
And I start to read even more travelblogs as my girlfriend tells me that she wants to travel with me.. Any word they did wrote down
My first night inside of the car was in September, two month later we did start the transafrica.
That the car is after 8 years pretty same that as we start, shows that even that way can work.
Also it was helpful for my own trips, to have the experiences of reading all these blogs detailed.
I knows what happens to them, how they did handle it, could do the same or could try to approve it.
As in Angola some fishers knock on the door as we did staying wild at the beach I did know that they will argue that we had destroyed their nets with our car as one example.. They did it before. That they try to block the track back was new - but we was able to pass.
For shure they want that we did get stuck, did want to help us out for a bit cash
So there are alway several ways to get something who will work: very theoretically or more trying and approve - as example.
Surfy
Last edited by 4x4tripping; 2021/01/22 at 06:23 PM.
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Transafrica with a well equipped Land Cruiser 200
http://transafrica2012.blogspot.com
Hi Izak,
Great advise on this forum, saves a lot on school fees. Many members saved me from making expensive mistakes when I started out too. Assuming you do opt for the FT, this is what I learned as a FT owner.
1. At the risk of stating the blindingly obvious, the FT is not an LC. It simply won’t take the same amount of punishment, or last anywhere near as long. So, unless you have one foot in the grave, the FT will probably not be the last vehicle you buy – irrespective of what you plan to do to it (and with it). Think twice about permanent mods… and then think some more… there’s no trade-in value on them. All my stuff is portable for that reason. You can get good gear that doesn’t require permanent installation - roof rack, auxiliary fuel tank, water tank, compressor, solar panel, battery pack etc.
2. Your biggest enemy is weight. On my FT the maximum discretionary load (GVM minus TARE) is 720kg. That gets taken up pretty rapidly with fuel, water, fridge, food, tent, recovery gear, tool kit, second spares tyre etc. A set of rock sliders are not going to be helpful in the battle against weight. I do max my FT though when it comes to weight, thanks to good shocks and progressive coils. FT’s are prone to wobbling at the rear when they are fully laden. Get rid of the OEM matchsticks masquerading as shocks. For safety reasons alone, this is one permanent mod that’s totally worth it. You’ll have better fuel consumption too.
3. Space wise you’ll be fine once the jump seats are out; unless you’re more than 5 up in the cab, which probably means you shouldn’t be driving a FTSame discretion goes for how to enjoy the FT. It’s a great allrounder, but it’s still an SUV; which means that overlanding is fine, but rock crawling isn’t. It will get you there and back in comfort; and will be very capable offroad too. Some members on this forum have taken theirs very far indeed. Lastly, if you plan to use your FT as a daily driver, you’ll want to consider the pros and cons of a rooftop tent. I’ve gone back to ground tents because, like you, I make 4 trips a year only.
Have fun and post pix!
My recommendation for overlanding to far and remote places, fwiw
1. full length real roofrack (eg Frontrunner), large enough to carry 2nd spare wheel in front of rooftop tent
2. shade awning – yes, on passenger side attached to roofrack
3. new frontbumper – not needed for mild offroad because no winch (but see 12.)
4. rock sliders - not needed for mild offroad
5. new suspension - not needed for mild offroad, 2+2 people and luggage (include RTT, spare wheel, extra fuel). But check weights vs GVM.
6. 2nd spare wheel – yes. say on roofrack in front of RTT, alternative is new rear bumper with appropriate hinging brackets for both spare wheels, freeing space under car for aux fuel tank
7. aux fuel tank – yes. Add jerrycans if possible, within limitation of roofrack space and carrying capacity (eg next to sparewheel at front). My Defender carries 300L (75 standard, 45 in rhs rear corner, 2x50 under front seats, 2x20 jerrys on roofrack and 2x20 jerrys in rack mounted on rear sparewheel on rear door). Jerrycans work best with a gadget to pressurise and push fuel across to main tank (contact 082 448 4298). Avoid range anxiety!
Offroad roof carrying capacity (around 120kg but check) not to be exceeded by roofrack, RTT, spare wheel, and jerrys
8. remove 3rd row of seats – yes. Then install rails or lugs to attach hold-down straps for luggage (say ammo boxes, fridge, …)
9. second battery for fridge – yes, with professional charging and monitoring system, possibly add a built-in trickle charger to keep battery conditioned between trips if car not in daily use. Aim for Li-iron-fosfor , not Li-ion because of fire hazard.
Further recommended, even for mild offroad:
10. ARB rear diff lock. Its compressor is also used for regulating tyre pressure (mild offroad includes deep sand, rocky ground etc requiring tyre pressure adjustment).
When diff lock not chosen, at least a built-in hi-capacity compressor for tyre pumping and fuel transfers from jerrycans.
11. Water tank(s) essential, make a plan (not on roofrack). My Defender has 2 x 45L (lhs rear corner & under 2nd row seats).
12. Lifting points for hi-lift jack, and tow hooks (preferably removable tow hitches), at front and rear. To enable rescue when necessary (maybe never) and for changing wheels in rough terrain. This may need new steel bumpers.
Happy event-free travel !
Geert de Vries
Defender 1997 2.8i
Wel Izak niks wat jy genome het is onnodig nie, n goeie suspensie vir die ekstra gewig, n long range tank is ook n moet aangesien jerry kanne op die dakrak n slep is en spasie wegvat, n dual battery sisteem is n moet vir n yskas, haal die 3de ry sitplekke uit in fit n laai sisteem om alles in te pak ens. Kontak my gerus vir enige navrae en fotos, ons bou baie voertuie om, 082 304 5482
2014 Toyota Fortuner 3.0 D-4D 4x4
2008 Echo 3 Off-road Trailer
https://instagram.com/roamfreeoverland/
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