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  1. #21
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box

    Quote Originally Posted by Ama-newbie View Post
    I fully agree with you in the ďnormal car scenarioĒ, where the whole steel body of the car is the negative, and thought I made that clear in my post

    I was then referring to the scenario where the entire circuit was made up of insulated cables (with properly insulated connectors - maybe I should have added that). In that case I donít believe the position of the fuse makes any difference...
    What if the insulated positive cable wears through and shorts against the negative body of the vehicle? If this happens and there's no fuse in that positive line, between the short and the battery, you'll have a problem.

    The closer the fuse is to the battery, the smaller overall % of the cable is vulnerable as any short that occurs *after* the fuse is protected.

    ZS5CMA
    ******
    His: '17 Hilux GD-6 4x4 A/T ~135000km
    Hers: '19 Mitsu Eclipse Cross ~ 35000km
    Semi-retired: '12 Polo BlueMotion ~350000km
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  2. #22
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box

    Quote Originally Posted by cainslie View Post
    What if the insulated positive cable wears through and shorts against the negative body of the vehicle? If this happens and there's no fuse in that positive line, between the short and the battery, you'll have a problem.

    The closer the fuse is to the battery, the smaller overall % of the cable is vulnerable as any short that occurs *after* the fuse is protected.
    The circuit I¬ím referring to is completely separate to my vehicles electrics; there is no link whatsoever. So is the body of the vehicle still ¬ďnegative¬Ē with respect to my auxiliary battery positive? I¬ím NOT going to try it (and don¬ít suggest anyone else does) but I¬ím guessing if I took a stand-alone battery and attached a cable only to the positive terminal and touched just that against the bodywork of a car most probably nothing would happen. Of course if I attached the negative of this battery to the vehicle body or chassis I¬íd get a huge current flow in a dead short...

    Of course in the above scenario, if BOTH positive and negative cables of my auxiliary system wear through and both touch the bodywork of the vehicle it would result in a dead short. I then surmise that the fuse should be close to the battery, but it doesn’t matter which side, positive or negative, since as soon as a fuse blows current would stop.

    anyway, maybe this is purely an academic exercise. My fuses happen to be close to the battery, and on the positive side anyway. And I am making every effort to keep my auxiliary electrics completely separate from the vehicle electrics, and will do my best to keep all cables in good condition and well insulated....
    Rob Kirk

    Amarok V6.

  3. #23
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box

    Quote Originally Posted by Ama-newbie View Post
    The circuit I¬ím referring to is completely separate to my vehicles electrics; there is no link whatsoever. So is the body of the vehicle still ¬ďnegative¬Ē with respect to my auxiliary battery positive? I¬ím NOT going to try it (and don¬ít suggest anyone else does) but I¬ím guessing if I took a stand-alone battery and attached a cable only to the positive terminal and touched just that against the bodywork of a car most probably nothing would happen. Of course if I attached the negative of this battery to the vehicle body or chassis I¬íd get a huge current flow in a dead short...

    Of course in the above scenario, if BOTH positive and negative cables of my auxiliary system wear through and both touch the bodywork of the vehicle it would result in a dead short. I then surmise that the fuse should be close to the battery, but it doesn’t matter which side, positive or negative, since as soon as a fuse blows current would stop.

    anyway, maybe this is purely an academic exercise. My fuses happen to be close to the battery, and on the positive side anyway. And I am making every effort to keep my auxiliary electrics completely separate from the vehicle electrics, and will do my best to keep all cables in good condition and well insulated....
    I see. Yes, in that scenario, your synopsis would be correct.

    Many (most?) of us will be charging the aux battery from the vehicle battery/alternator in which case the systems are not separate.

    In my case, I have 16mm2 cables (+ and -) running from the starter battery to the DCDC in the loadbin. Both cables are in a split conduit and there's a fuse about 50mm from the +ive terminal on the starter battery.

    ZS5CMA
    ******
    His: '17 Hilux GD-6 4x4 A/T ~135000km
    Hers: '19 Mitsu Eclipse Cross ~ 35000km
    Semi-retired: '12 Polo BlueMotion ~350000km
    Burned to a crisp: '05 WJ 2.7CRD
    https://www.instagram.com/fstopza/

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  5. #24
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box

    Because Iím new to this, and randomly over-cautious, I personally decided not to interfere whatsoever with the vehicle electrics. So I didnít want a DC-DC charger, but went instead for overkill on the solar panels. The only exception being to use the 12V socket in the load bin to run the fridge if absolutely necessary...

    Anyways, hope the OP also got some useful info...
    Rob Kirk

    Amarok V6.

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  7. #25
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box

    Here is my 2nd battery box I built, I used a national luna grey box, and then I cut and bent a stainless steel plate, on the front is the Victron Orion TR-Smart DC-DC 18 amp, and behind the SS plate is the Victron SmartSolart 15A MPPT regulator. I have 3 B/H plugs, Grey for the cable from the main battery for DC-DC charging, Red for the solar panels and blue is for the fridge, and one hella plug for a LED light or something.

    Then inside right next next to the battery positive is a 20A National Luna main fuse, and then the Solar regulator has a 15amp fuse on the load output, nice thing about the Victron SmartSolar Bluetooth is on the app it shows you our solar input and consumption so you.

    I have a 100watt mono crystalline solar panel, in good sun I am able to maintain the battery (100Ahr AGM, I normally only run one 90lt National Luna fridge as a freezer.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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  9. #26
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box

    Quote Originally Posted by WayneSchalk View Post
    Here is my 2nd battery box I built, I used a national luna grey box, and then I cut and bent a stainless steel plate, on the front is the Victron Orion TR-Smart DC-DC 18 amp, and behind the SS plate is the Victron SmartSolart 15A MPPT regulator. I have 3 B/H plugs, Grey for the cable from the main battery for DC-DC charging, Red for the solar panels and blue is for the fridge, and one hella plug for a LED light or something.

    Then inside right next next to the battery positive is a 20A National Luna main fuse, and then the Solar regulator has a 15amp fuse on the load output, nice thing about the Victron SmartSolar Bluetooth is on the app it shows you our solar input and consumption so you.

    I have a 100watt mono crystalline solar panel, in good sun I am able to maintain the battery (100Ahr AGM, I normally only run one 90lt National Luna fridge as a freezer.

    Looks nice and neat, and somewhat more compact than my setup...
    Rob Kirk

    Amarok V6.

  10. #27
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box

    Quote Originally Posted by WayneSchalk View Post
    Here is my 2nd battery box I built, I used a national luna grey box, and then I cut and bent a stainless steel plate, on the front is the Victron Orion TR-Smart DC-DC 18 amp, and behind the SS plate is the Victron SmartSolart 15A MPPT regulator. I have 3 B/H plugs, Grey for the cable from the main battery for DC-DC charging, Red for the solar panels and blue is for the fridge, and one hella plug for a LED light or something.

    Then inside right next next to the battery positive is a 20A National Luna main fuse, and then the Solar regulator has a 15amp fuse on the load output, nice thing about the Victron SmartSolar Bluetooth is on the app it shows you our solar input and consumption so you.

    I have a 100watt mono crystalline solar panel, in good sun I am able to maintain the battery (100Ahr AGM, I normally only run one 90lt National Luna fridge as a freezer.
    Is that a water pipe running above it? Is it safe?
    2014 Ford Ranger 3.2 XLT 4x4 D/C Auto
    2018 Ford Everest 2.2 XLS 2x4 auto (SWAMBO)
    Echo 4 trailer

  11. #28
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box

    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisH View Post
    Is that a water pipe running above it? Is it safe?
    The picture is rotated 90 deg, For some reason every picture I upload rotates . I have a water tank in the back of the bakkie, hence the pipe, the battery box is waterproof..ish. I don't see any chance of damaging any of the electronics or fridge even if the pipe leaks. And its 12v DC so no risk of electrocution in any event.

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  13. #29
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box

    Thank you everyone for your input, Iím about to order the last few items and then I should be able to get the box built.

  14. #30
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box

    Itís probably been more than a year since I started this project and itís finally finished.

    Thanks to, amongst others, SinWolf who got me started on this.

    WRND, fuse box, USB, Solar input, vehicle batter input, two Harrison outputs, cigarette, Hella and USB output and a voltage gauge for the vehicle as well as the second battery.




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  16. #31
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box

    That looks neat and practical, well done.

    Any chance of a "behind the scenes" photo of the mounting and wiring of the goodies please.

  17. #32
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box


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  19. #33
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box

    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger.RSA View Post
    Wow, some tight but very neat wiring. Great job!

  20. #34
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    Default Re: Help with DIY 2nd battery box

    I would also like to thank SinWolf, Fluffy, Chris to name a few and all the contributors to the electrickery thread.SinWolf kindly shared the AUTOCAD drawing for Laser cutting the metal plate.By the way I have limited design skills but I managed to modify SinWolf's drawing and customise it to my box that I got from Outdoor Warehouse. For me the WRND DC-DC charger is facing outwards so that I can monitor the lights that indicate the charging source.The Volt/Amp meter is connected to the 12V cigarette outlet from which the fridge will run to monitor amp draw.
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