Spring 2021 planning

[Bud3]

Sounds like I ought to make reservations now for Botswana camping. Been using the Bradt guide and forum posts, to come up with the following. This segment of the trip is from late Sept to mid October 2021 (spring). Note: We will also be in Botswana in mid March into late April 2022 (fall) starting Kgalagadi TF, then CKGR, Tsodilo Hills, and out Chobe area in case you see something missing between the spring and fall segments.

Looking or input on the following plan.
Coming from either RSA or Zim, covering the main camps, there may some additional overnight stops either due to reservation constraints or distance's to be covered.
(1)Rhino Sanctuary, 3 nights. Sept 22-24
(2) Makgadikgadi, Khumaga camp, 3 nights
(3) NxaiPan, Baines Camp, 2 nights, then South Camp 2 nights, This takes it to Oct 2.
(4) Moremi, 3 nights 3^Rd bridge, 2 nights Xakanaxa, This takes it to Oct 8.
(5) Chobe, 3 nights Savuti, 3 nights Linyanti, 3 nights Ihaha. This takes it to Oct 17.

Besides camping, game drives, likely to fit in a couple guided activities with watercraft.

Does the balancing of time spent in various locales seem about right and seem to have the right breadth of geographic coverage? Don't have the center or eastern side (Sau Pan) of Makgadikgadi in either spring or fall segments, but am keep this area a option for the fall as well.
I have initiated discussion with a booking agency to handle the reservations as I would need to otherwise have sequential contact and confirmation with a handful of companies to get this done. Their fee is $49 USD.

( from end of this segment would be heading into Zam or Zim for Lower Zambezi trip).

[Stan Weakley]

For initial consideration consider the following:


* For most 1 or 2 nights at Khama Rhino sanctuary would be enough. Even though this is the best (and usually only) place to see rhino on a game drive in Botswana, there is little else to warrant two day's worth of game drives. This time could instead be better spent in one of the parks in my opinion.
*Rather than Khumaga, stay 3 nights to get a taste of the Central Kalahari GR, perhaps choose one camp then, such as any of the three Sunday Pan campsites. One day thereafter should be enough for Khumaga as it is quite tame.
*Nxai Pan. Rather 2 nights South Pan, 1 night Bains, should be enough.
*Add at least 1 night at one of the many campsites in the rustic business hub of Maun. Here a 1 hour light plane sight-seeing flight over the swamps is very rewarding. This is one of the best ways of obtaining a perspective of the massive extent and beauty of the inland Okavango Delta. Time will also be needed to stock up on supplies in Maun.
*I personally would cut out the 3 nights at Linyanti and add them to the nights at either of the Moremi or Chobe campsites. Perhaps Xakanaxa would be a focus as I can highly recommend a daytrip on a motorboat (not a dugout or mokoro) out into the swamps. There is a boat station on the western extent of the campsite where bookings can be made. There is also an extensive thread with more detail on this forum, but sharing with fellow campers can reduce costs. In my opinion, Liyanti is nice, but not unique enough for the quite intrepid roads and I think you will be moving about too much without sufficient reward. Rather a few extra nights shared in any manner with the other park campsites.


The booking agencies should be able to book all of this for you in advance, including the outings, and their fee seems right. Your balance for Bostwana is good in my opinion.


Please feel free to keep posting any further queries or clarifications needed.

[schwott]

I do not like the idea of fixed bookings. Anything can happen and you will end up selling yours campsites as I have seen numerous times. At this time of the year some of the campsites do not need fixed bookings as Khama Rhino, Maun area, others have good alternatives outside NPs (Khwai Triangle for Moremi, Muchenje for Ihaha etc.). I would book just the bare minimum and be rather as flexible as possible.

[Groenman]

I would like to echo what Stan has said and add a comment or two:

1. Two nights at Khama Rhino is enough - also buy some fire wood there for the next few nights, their wood is great.
2. Add a night (or two if possible) at Kubu Island.
3. Agree 1 night at Baines Baobabs enough, but nothing wrong with 2.
4. Contrary to what Stan said, I wouldn't skip Linyanti - it's peaceful and really off the grid, but game drives are limited and you don't to much apart from sitting in camp - 2 nights are enough.
5. A night in Maun with a scenic flight is a must - it's really fairly priced. I would suggest breaking from camping and staying in one of the en-suite tents at Audi Camp for the night. In Maun, there is a very nice place about 400m from the airport that makes a very nice curry and has a lekker vibe - https://www.tripadvisor.co.za/Restau..._District.html

6. I see you are moving towards Zim / Zambia from Bots - spend some time in Kasane (Senyati it really nice with private ablutions for each stand and a very cool bunker to photograph the elephants).

I saw your posts on Kruger as well - you are going to have one hell of a trip!

[Half-Pint]

I agree with Stan. For me Khama is a bit overrated, their rates are very high for not fantastic facilities. Its a relatively small park and you could virtually drive the whole place in 2 game drives. I doubt we will return simply because you are are just paying a premium to see rhino.

My next trip we will leave very early from JHB to reach Rakops River Lodge on day one and then the following day head into CKGR to maximize time there. The travel time from Khama to CKGR is actually still quite long.

If you are pressed for time I would consider the same to maximize your time in the "premium" parks.

Perhaps look at:

1)Rakops River Lodge, 1 nights.


(2) CKGR 3 / 4 Nights - Four nights would give you the chance to spend 2 nights in the Sunday / Deception pan areas and 2 nights in Passarge area or if you want to be more settled do all 4 nights at Sunday which is sort of in between and you could do a long game drive into Passarge.


(3) Makgadikgadi, Khumaga camp, 1- 2 nights. Khumaga was very nice but can feel quite busy after CKGR so perhaps one night would be sufficient?


(4) NxaiPan, Baines Camp, 1 night. I didn't stay at Baines but after passing through I think I would be a bit bored doing more than one night at Baines, the baobabs are spectacular and I am sure the sunset is sublime over the pans but not sure I would need 2 days to enjoy this?


(5) South Camp 2 nights, Just be aware that Nxai Pan can become very barren in winter. I don't really know the migration patterns but when we were at Nxai Pan in July the grazing had been depleted and 95% of the animals had moved on. There were plenty of elephant bulls around (almost too many!) and plenty of jackal but once you were away from the waterhole we hardly saw anything.


Perhaps swap the order of South Camp & Baines which will avoid the two 1 night stops in a row if opting for only one night at Khumaga

I can't advise on the other stops unfortunately

[PAT n WOLF]

I do not like the idea of fixed bookings. Anything can happen and you will end up selling yours campsites as I have seen numerous times. At this time of the year some of the campsites do not need fixed bookings as Khama Rhino, Maun area, others have good alternatives outside NPs (Khwai Triangle for Moremi, Muchenje for Ihaha etc.). I would book just the bare minimum and be rather as flexible as possible.

2021 is almost fully booked because of the deferred bookings. That flexibility is the one that lands people in our campsites. Sometimes, its not about any campsite, but a specific campsite that you like. For example, Sunday Pan campsite are soo dispersed, to be thrown to CKSUN01 when i wanted to be near waterhole could spoil what i wanted. I would book everything to be cautious.

[Stan Weakley]

Botswana is very early in the travels of Bud3. If I recall correctly he plans to travel for a couple of years, beginning in the south. There is no way he will get most of the best campsites in the Botswana Parks without booking well ahead.

Being so early in his trip these bookings will not tie him down too much in the total context of his trip. Were he starting his trip in Egypt, Schwott's comment of not being tied down would be totally valid. If I were in Bud's boots I would certainly not book for any place beyond Botswana and perhaps some choice sites in Zimbabwe and Namibia. No bookings are need from Zambia northwards at all, in my opinion.

[Anne_W]

Bud, I have a comment to Moremi:

if you do not manage to get space in 3rd Bridge or Xakanaka I would also recommend South Gate campsite which is the first campsite in Moremi when you come from Maun. For some reason it is not so popular but we stayed there twice, liked the camp itself very much and had memorable drives to Xini Lagoon and from there.

Further north, already outside Moremi you can also find Magotho campsite (which I would always prefer over North Gate campsite as it is more spacious. )

Another alternative would be Mbudi campsite (though I am not sure that this is still open) or Khwai Safari grounds, also not in Moremi itself but close and and full of wildlife - maybe someone has recent information on these camps?

Finally, Tshaa and Dijara Campsite near Mababe used to be great camps but again I am not sure whether they are open or not. We had memorable encounters with wildlife and I have very fond memories of both places.


https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...27#post3827427

https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...17#post4043017

Happy travel planning, I am green with envy :-)

[Birdie]

If I may offer some input regarding Baines Baobabs and South Gate in Nxai Pan - based on the most recent of our three visits, in August 2016. We spent one night at the baobabs (site 1) and two nights at South Gate (site 2).

We loved our stay at the baobabs and wished we had stayed at least a second night. The scenery, with the baobabs and blanket of stars overhead, was spectacular. With only four well-spaced campsites, it is delightfully peaceful. We sat up well into the night admiring the spectacle around us. The silence was...well, it felt as though we had that little piece of the African wilderness all to ourselves (despite the fact that the other three campsites were occupied). A most memorable visit!

At South Gate, we did not have a great experience. On the first night, there was a group that was spread over several campsites and the adults insisted on shouting to one another between sites. This shouting went on long after we were in bed. We sighed with relief when they left after one night. Unfortunately, they were replaced by a second group, also spread out on a couple of campsites. There were several young children in the group, whose parents allowed them to chase each other throughout the campsite, screaming to one another as they did so. Given the number of elephants wandering through the campsite and at the ablution building, this was not only inconsiderate on the part of the parents but also dangerous. As for the behaviour of our fellow campers at the waterhole - children sitting on the roof of their vehicle, adults leaving their vehicle to retrieve items from the boot, vehicle doors sitting open, loud conversations between vehicles, and even adults walking towards the waterhole to get photos of themselves with the elephants - it was appalling. Needless to say, as a result, the game viewing was poor. Our previous stays at South Gate were much better, and our 2016 experience may well have been exceptional.

My advice...if you love solitude and great scenery, keep your two nights at Baines. Certainly go to South Gate as well - people usually enjoy wonderful sightings there - but for pity's sake go to South Gate before Baine's. Otherwise, the campsite at South Gate may be a rude surprise after the peace and quiet of Baines.

Enjoy!

[Stan Weakley]

The post from Birdie is important. One's experience is not directly related to the choice of campsite.

[Stan Weakley]

I do indeed stick to 1 day at Baine's Baobabs and 1 perhaps 2 at Nxai South Camp.

We have stayed in South Camp on a number of occasions over the years, but would only stay there if we had not booked early enough to get into the more popular Third Bridge and Xakanaxa campsites. I also do not like Khwai Camp (North gate) in the park all that much and would rather stay at the community campsites in the Khwai conservancy , but they are opening and closing amidst much confusion. At present apparently Magotho campsites 1 and 2 are probably best, but check with your booking agent. You are very likely be very pleased if you spend a day or two longer in this, the epicenter of wildlife viewing and unfenced wilderness camping, short only of the Serengeti

South gate is a nice enough camp with excellent facilities and with the newish game drives to the west to Black Pools and Xini Lagoons towards Third Bridge, this make a stay there more of a prospect. The fact of the matter is that I and many others drive from South gate via Xini Lagoon in any case if going onto Third Bridge camp or that at Xakanaxa. South camp is too close to the edges of the park for some people to make it a high priority, but we have never not had good game viewing there. We have also had a disturbed night at South Gate caused by late arriving groups of overlanders.

I would book.

Khama Rhino, 1 or 2 nights
Central Kalahari National Park, this is a superb wilderness experience. I would look at 4 days. Perhaps all 4 in one camp, choose one of the three Sunday pan camps available(2,3 or 4) all good. Otherwise 2 days Sunday Pan, 2 days at Passarge camp no 1.
Nxai Pan, South Camp, two days
Baines Baobabs, 1 night only.
Maun, Audie Camp, Camping at the Cresta Hotel and Old Bridge Camp just outside town on the road to Moremi. Pre-book splendid sight-seeing light plane flight over the swamps. Probably need two nights
Third Bridge: 3-4 nights.
Xakanaxa: 3-4 nights plus a day into the swamps on a motor boat.
Magotho: camps no 1 or 2 in the Khwai community concession, just outside the unfenced park boundary, right on the lovely Khwai River. Excellent game viewing and elephants often walking though cam and wild dogs seen regularly. Campsites are a bit rustic. Two to three nights.

Then go onto Savuti and Ihaha, (2-3 nights each) I would not bother with the diversion on very sandy roads that Linyanti requires. Once in camp there are virtually no game drives, although the camps right on the waters edge of the Linyanti Swamps are attractive enough.

In the normal course of events you might be offered conflicting advice, its your trip and only you can decide. Discuss the options with your booking agent but I think you will find he will suggest pretty much the same as I did.

[PAT n WOLF]

If I may offer some input regarding Baines Baobabs and South Gate in Nxai Pan - based on the most recent of our three visits, in August 2016. We spent one night at the baobabs (site 1) and two nights at South Gate (site 2).

We loved our stay at the baobabs and wished we had stayed at least a second night. The scenery, with the baobabs and blanket of stars overhead, was spectacular. With only four well-spaced campsites, it is delightfully peaceful. We sat up well into the night admiring the spectacle around us. The silence was...well, it felt as though we had that little piece of the African wilderness all to ourselves (despite the fact that the other three campsites were occupied). A most memorable visit!

At South Gate, we did not have a great experience. On the first night, there was a group that was spread over several campsites and the adults insisted on shouting to one another between sites. This shouting went on long after we were in bed. We sighed with relief when they left after one night. Unfortunately, they were replaced by a second group, also spread out on a couple of campsites. There were several young children in the group, whose parents allowed them to chase each other throughout the campsite, screaming to one another as they did so. Given the number of elephants wandering through the campsite and at the ablution building, this was not only inconsiderate on the part of the parents but also dangerous. As for the behaviour of our fellow campers at the waterhole - children sitting on the roof of their vehicle, adults leaving their vehicle to retrieve items from the boot, vehicle doors sitting open, loud conversations between vehicles, and even adults walking towards the waterhole to get photos of themselves with the elephants - it was appalling. Needless to say, as a result, the game viewing was poor. Our previous stays at South Gate were much better, and our 2016 experience may well have been exceptional.

My advice...if you love solitude and great scenery, keep your two nights at Baines. Certainly go to South Gate as well - people usually enjoy wonderful sightings there - but for pity's sake go to South Gate before Baine's. Otherwise, the campsite at South Gate may be a rude surprise after the peace and quiet of Baines.

Enjoy!

Well described Birdie. I love Baines Campsites. i have been fortunate at the Main Nxai Pan waterhole, photographying lions, elephants at the waterhole with few or no vehicles. So, i will take a night at South Camp, or day trip from Baines Campsites if you feel South Camp is crowded.

[Peter Connan]

I have had a similar experience in the Central Kalahari. A large Toyota dealer had brought all their best customers for a jol. They even brought their vuvuzelas.

My opinion is, louts can be found absolutely anywhere, and one should not choose campsites based on there having been louts somewhere once before.
Certainly, some campsites are on the bus tour routes, and can thus be busy and noisy quite regularly, and this is something that may need to be kept in mind, especially if one habitually spends a lot of time in the camp, but a once-off like described above can happen absolutely anywhere.

[Bud3]

Besides thanking the individual posts I wanted to give a shout to the group here in their collaboration with each on behalf of a new forum member such as myself. You bring joy. Also, think of the benefit others will get bye this thread when trying to do similar. I'm a newbie, never having been to Africa yet, and one can read guides and trip reports all day ( I have) and not get a good enough feel on how to lay out a trip through Botswana like this. I will be working with the Booking Agent and they are on this forum, I'll direct them to this so they can see all of your work and we will come up with a itinerary that works with the reservation availabilities. So far, what works for SWAMBO and I is solitude, so opportunity for that like at the Pans, seeing the diversity of the landscape (remember it is all new to us), a few down days..not driving each day (Linyanti?), and of course the wildlife. By the time we get to Chobe will have been in continent for 10 weeks. What I see and like to change/get into the itinerary is;

1. Reduce stay at Khamo Rino
2. Add Kalahari. we will also be there in April, so good see it both seasons
3. Add Maun, add flight.
4. Add Magotho
5. Consider adding Senyati ( 2 nights if there is activities near there) . Likely as we route form Chobe to Lower Zambezi
6. Look at Kabu Island, but perhaps save that for April 2022
7. Question regarding Xhumaga, I was hoping to see the zebra herds from here. There was a Zebra thread that Stan was in back in 2015 where the migration pattern ( as variable it is is), was being discussed and how this location fit into it. Not sure or recall clearly if there was some update/conclusion from that, but was hoping to see some of that while at this camp or Nxai Pan. Perhaps 1 night enroute to Nxai

I night Stops for us ok, we are a easy set up/ take down and when we go on a game drive for example everything goes anyways. Only booking Kruger and Bots area for now, and other than a Lower Zambezi River end Oct canoe trip booking hoping no more reservations for awhile .
Thanks again everyone. May even shorten Kruger a bit to have more time in Bots for this itinerary. I will post the final itinerary back on this thread, but feel free to chime in further too if compelled

[Peter Connan]

Bud, on the strength of your last post, I want to point out the following:
Unfortunately, abundant wildlife and solitude are to some extent not found together. Firstly, in the game reserves and wildlife areas of Africa most people are looking for great wildlife sightings, and of course word of mouth is the best advertising and as a result the places with the best wildlife sightings are also the ones with the heaviest tourist traffic, and secondly the animals themselves become "tamer" the more they are in contact with tourists.

Just one example is to be found in the magnificent Kgalagadi. On the South African side of the border (and the Botswanan section immediately adjoining the border) , there are several large camps and always quite a lot of people, and the sightings are incredible. It is probably the best place in the world to see Cheetah hunting, and one if one considers only those areas where it is possible to self-drive and operate without guides, rangers etc, I contend it is probably the best place in the world to see any of the large cats that live there. At the other end of the park, in the Mabuasehube section, there are no permanent tented camps or chalets, and only relatively few relatively small campsites. Here, it is possible to drive around a whole day without seeing more than one or two other people, but you will also see far less game, and those you do see will typically be further away.

I would therefore strongly recommend (as you mostly are already doing)visiting both the more popular and the more isolated places. It is therefore necessary to cultivate an attitude of acceptance. After all, virtually everybody you will meet in these places are on holiday. When on holiday, children MUST play, and for the most part, adults will drink and be merry, sometimes obnoxiously so. This is unfortunate, but it WILL happen and you WILL encounter it sooner or later, and if you let it upset you it will spoil your holiday.

[TRON]

Bud, Maybe post your latest itinerary and then we can make further comment. One point is that if you have a one night stand (ha ha) remember that you could arrive late and then need to depart early the next morning.

Thus you might not have sufficient time to enjoy the environment and wild life. Example: should you wish to go to Khumaga from CKGR and spend one night there and need to go to Nxai the next day you will have a rushed visit there.

I always recommend that at least two nights should be a minimum at any camp if you are there to see wild life and the area.

Lots of good advice in all posts. Also note that most campsites are of such a nature that you aren’t really cramped even Nxai South Camp, referred to in the posts. You can expect rowdy campers at any camp but this is not the norm.

[Half-Pint]

Also beware of over-analyzing the trip. Provided you do some research as you have done you will almost certainly have a fantastic time. Each person commenting has a slightly different thought process none of which if followed would result in a disappointing trip however the conflicting advice can sometimes have one questioning every decision.

When I look back at my first Botswana trip the itinerary was less than ideal however at the time we had an absolute blast.

[Bud3]

Bud, on the strength of your last post, I want to point out the following:
Unfortunately, abundant wildlife and solitude are to some extent not found together. Firstly, in the game reserves and wildlife areas of Africa most people are looking for great wildlife sightings, and of course word of mouth is the best advertising and as a result the places with the best wildlife sightings are also the ones with the heaviest tourist traffic, and secondly the animals themselves become "tamer" the more they are in contact with tourists.

Just one example is to be found in the magnificent Kgalagadi. On the South African side of the border (and the Botswanan section immediately adjoining the border) , there are several large camps and always quite a lot of people, and the sightings are incredible. It is probably the best place in the world to see Cheetah hunting, and one if one considers only those areas where it is possible to self-drive and operate without guides, rangers etc, I contend it is probably the best place in the world to see any of the large cats that live there. At the other end of the park, in the Mabuasehube section, there are no permanent tented camps or chalets, and only relatively few relatively small campsites. Here, it is possible to drive around a whole day without seeing more than one or two other people, but you will also see far less game, and those you do see will typically be further away.

I would therefore strongly recommend (as you mostly are already doing)visiting both the more popular and the more isolated places. It is therefore necessary to cultivate an attitude of acceptance. After all, virtually everybody you will meet in these places are on holiday. When on holiday, children MUST play, and for the most part, adults will drink and be merry, sometimes obnoxiously so. This is unfortunate, but it WILL happen and you WILL encounter it sooner or later, and if you let it upset you it will spoil your holiday.

Good advice for all. Folks need to chill (let go of whatever could bother you, as it's generally out of ones control) and make the best of whatever happens. Solitude and game doesn't necessarily go hand in hand and will occasionally be seeking out some places just to chill ourselves even if it's not game rich area.

So, still yet to be reality checked with the booking agent but looking at this. ( starting Sept 18.)

1. Khama is 1 night. arrive early that day for a game drive and early depart the next for CKGR.
2. CKGR 5 nights. not sure how to route through camps, first time looking at CKGR as was not initially in this segment. Likely three camps. Initial thought is starting with arrival at Sunday Pan, through Passarage Valley and then Leiahau Valley to Deception. If anyone wants to further comment on this it would be all good.
3. Xhumaga, 2 nights.
4. Nxai 3 nights ( 2 South, 1 Baines)
5. Maun, 2 nights
6. Moremi 6 nights between 3rd bridge and Xakanaxa ( ideally split). could also chill at South gate if needed to delay entry into Moremi , and shorten Magothro to 1 night depending on availability)
7. Magothro 2 nights
8. Chobe 7 nights; 2 at Linyanti and 5 between Savuti and Ihaha. Is there a thought which should get 3 nights vs 2?
9. Anything further in Bots after this depends on how a subsequent Zim activity gets booked. Might have more time available for example to stay a few days at Senyati.

Any recommendations for boat tour (type, where) and out of which camp? Should the Maun air tour and any water activities be booked now? Question gets to impart if there is Covid delays and I have to rejigger the schedule, etc. which could case some forfeiture of payments? Generally prefer to book a air tour and boat tour once I arrive in RSA. Kruger impact first of course, so a Covid delay would have to be more than a month to upset this Bots segment.

Thanks again for your input.

[Peter Connan]

Personally, I would say at least 3 nights in Savuti and at least 5 in Ihaha...

I think you are trying to fit too many camps into too little time, but I fully understand why (I did it too on the first couple of trips), and also my priority is photography, which requires that one spends a bit of time to figure out the movement of the animals before you can really figure out where and when to try and ambush them.

With regard to CKGR, I think it takes a long time to drive from one area to the next, and there is a vast section in the middle where nothing really happens. For this reason, I would concentrate on the Northern camps. But again, I prefer spending more time in each area than perhaps most overland travellers.

[Bud3]

Personally, I would say at least 3 nights in Savuti and at least 5 in Ihaha...

I think you are trying to fit too many camps into too little time, but I fully understand why (I did it too on the first couple of trips), and also my priority is photography, which requires that one spends a bit of time to figure out the movement of the animals before you can really figure out where and when to try and ambush them.

With regard to CKGR, I think it takes a long time to drive from one area to the next, and there is a vast section in the middle where nothing really happens. For this reason, I would concentrate on the Northern camps. But again, I prefer spending more time in each area than perhaps most overland travellers.

OK, thanks Peter. I think Stan would agree re Chobe the same same as well. Going to make it 3 Savuti and 4 Ihaha. I think I am seeing your point re the CKGR...the camps are located where they are for a reason, it's place to see wildlife, and when moving form camp to camp, it's not really a game drive between relocating a camp. I was hoping to do both..move a camp while in a game drive. Will not do that for the CKGR. How would you you do 5 nights in CKGR arriving/depart via the Matswere gate?

Thank you