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Sounds like you have solved half of the problem.
Either the heat at the engine is affecting the wiring/starter or it's the ignition barrel.
Oh my eff! Bad idea to do this on a hot day!!! Realized it’s a semi dash off scenario to try get access to drill out the shear bolts... and as luck would have it, power is out and the cordless is flat!!
Much preferred the TD5 or 300tdi dash, sooooo much easier to take only certain parts off!
2010 Land Rover Defender 110
2018 Mazda CX-5 (SWAMBO)
2015 VW Caddy Cross (Sold)
1998 Land Rover Defender 2.8i (2.5i replacement due to overheat) (Sold - twins on the way, needed 4 doors...)
2009 Suzuki Jimny, Raised, Snorkel, BFG AT's, Little Engine that could (Sold)
Defender Puma Raw Limited Edition
Series III 88"
Scout Nomad
Chop your own firewood and it will warm you twice
Hi Claude, thanks for the info!
just in case anyone is looking, i was able to remove cluster and reconnect, with being able to start her up! No immobilizing issues!
NB! I disconnected the battery first using the following sequence. Press button, turn on, turn off, then disconnect battery within 17s. Helps to loosen the negative side prior to doing this
After the above sequence, I then removed the cluster. And only reconnected battery once cluster was back![]()
2010 Land Rover Defender 110
2018 Mazda CX-5 (SWAMBO)
2015 VW Caddy Cross (Sold)
1998 Land Rover Defender 2.8i (2.5i replacement due to overheat) (Sold - twins on the way, needed 4 doors...)
2009 Suzuki Jimny, Raised, Snorkel, BFG AT's, Little Engine that could (Sold)
Update:
Bad weather, an under-powered drill, bad bit, and seriously stubborn shear bolts have hampered the development of the repair/replacement.
I put her all back together as I had to commute, but can confirm she was more than fine with wet weather etc. So it seems there is a direct correlation between hot engine/hard running and the intermittent fault.
Must note that whilst I had limited access tot he 10as, I pushed on each of the clips and they seemed to click in.. This could perhaps have been something. Expansion causing the it to drift farther than normal. But still confused as to why that would not interrupt a push start.
Being said, before I undertook the repair, and had a problem at the shops, only a push start would get her going. Previously, a failed push start, to stop then try turn over worked. So I am almost dead set on it being an ignition switch issue.
2010 Land Rover Defender 110
2018 Mazda CX-5 (SWAMBO)
2015 VW Caddy Cross (Sold)
1998 Land Rover Defender 2.8i (2.5i replacement due to overheat) (Sold - twins on the way, needed 4 doors...)
2009 Suzuki Jimny, Raised, Snorkel, BFG AT's, Little Engine that could (Sold)
Hi guys,
Quite a bit of driving between then and now. No issues as yet, and only the extra push in on the Lucas performed...
I had a 0.5s hesitation before it started to turn yesterday, but that's been about it...
Still wanting to change out the ignition switch and dump the immobiliser though. Will keep you all posted. Next time will be once its done.
2010 Land Rover Defender 110
2018 Mazda CX-5 (SWAMBO)
2015 VW Caddy Cross (Sold)
1998 Land Rover Defender 2.8i (2.5i replacement due to overheat) (Sold - twins on the way, needed 4 doors...)
2009 Suzuki Jimny, Raised, Snorkel, BFG AT's, Little Engine that could (Sold)
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