2010 Defender 110 2.4 - intermittent starting issues

[swazi85]

I'd recommended silicone hoses while you changing them.

[scottdurban]

I'd recommended silicone hoses while you changing them.

I would, but dealer is paying LR to replace, so they wont change to non genuine parts.
Otherwise I'd ask for silicone pipes, decat, centre box removal, egr delete, intercooler upgrade and a 10mm socket...

[scottdurban]

Another update.

Because of the delay and hi cost from LR, the selling dealership is willing to go the independent route. Which means we can fit better parts for cheaper.

Something I’ll be doing myself is replacing the boost pipes with silicone pipes. Only doing this because of the festive period break, as everyone is off, and it’s the only thing that makes her not driveable. Has anyone done this before, the intercooler to intake looks simple enough, however I want to clean the intercooler lead off pipe and intake areas (to remove any funk and oil) - what is okay to use that is not abrasive to Aluminium or silicone, but that does the trick?

thanks in advance!

[jelo]

Silicon pipes are best. Get irrigation clamps.

[scottdurban]

Silicon pipes are best. Get irrigation clamps.

like these?

[ClaudeG]

Scott those look like just normal clamps to me.

I think JELO is referring to these type:

[scottdurban]

Thanks guys!

after all that the dealer wasn’t going to guarantee the cylinder head repair if we changed the water pipes and boost pipes with an independent.... so the original dealer opted to pay, replacing water control valve, cooling pipes, boost pipes and battery (as it failed their test).

but now, it turns out that the starter motor is to blame! They finally experienced the issue the same as me. However the Autoelectrician that normally sorts them out is away till the 4th. So if anyone knows of a leccy in the Hillcrest/Kloof/Gillitts area, that can sort it out? I’d have a stab, but I’m a bit wary to fiddle that much for the first time...

[scottdurban]

She’s booked in tomorrow with Keldon Auto Electrical. Will let you all know the update once I get her back

[scottdurban]

She’s booked in tomorrow with Keldon Auto Electrical. Will let you all know the update once I get her back

Theres a delay, starter needs to be overhauled, bushes etc, but primarily because the parts the sparky needs for a Bosch starter have been discontinued. Will let you guys know more as I do!

[scottdurban]

All sorted - to the tune of R3829.50 incl VAT - thanks everyone for the input along the way. She now fires on first turn, what a difference.

[scottdurban]

So after a week of no problems. Back to square one... First I noticed a 1s pause before she started to crank. Thought that was weird... Next couple of starts, absolutely fine. Then leaving a friends house from a braai, it rained a bit too, no crank at all... Did a push start half way on their lawn, almost got her going, not enough momentum, so she stopped. I tried to crank her again with starter, and she fired up, no hesitation...

Feels to me this is a lot more electrical joins than starter or immobilizer... Could this be bad earth straps or dry joints, or ignition barrel? Another thing to note is that in wet weather the abs park and tc lights incorrectly light up. Car dash is fine when I restart and she is a bit dry.... when regarding the park and and tc lights

[scottdurban]

According to defender2.net, I’m looking at ignition switch https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic51335.html

IIRC isn’t there a technical bulletin about this?

[scottdurban]

Had some time on my hands today, open the tunnel, cleaned all plugs I could see there, took of the main crank earth to the transfer case, there was quite a bit of that white corrosion, cleaned it off, sanded the terminal, sanded around the block, sprayed with contact cleaner, nice and shiny, fitted back snug. Then I removed the earth strap that connects the chassis to the body, from what i can work out, very important, and both ends had a lot of corrosion! You might not be able to tell from this photo, but the working area in terms of contact was much less. The other end, up and under the prop shaft was worse. Some elbow grease later, all nice and clean, fitted back together, reconnected battery, swung to life! Although it was an intermittent issue, so not sure yet, but I feel like this is it! I would even say the ac blower was stronger....

thought this was the best option to perform, with out the ignition switch available.... hopefully this simple fix solved it all!

[SP1971]

Holding thumbs that this is the solution!!! Had a similar issue and my culprit was a wire that was loose under the ignition. Had to remove the cluster and steering wheel to solve this.

[SP1971]

Holding thumbs that this is the solution!!! Had a similar issue and my culprit was a wire that was loose under the ignition. Had to remove the cluster and steering wheel to solve this.

My problem was where my right hand is and me busy fiddling to connect the loose wire.

[jfh]

A lot of problems are because of corroded earth cables.
Hope this is the solution for your troubles.

[scottdurban]

Thanks guys! I also opened up the dash today, removed steering and cluster - I know a visual inspection is not always correct but I couldn’t see any issue with the wiring, nothing loose... if anything it looked like the barrel had already been replaced due to some scuff marks I can only guess were due to installing... Hence why I went the earth strap route, easiest to solve without parts! Holding thumbs!

[Andrew5336]

My 2.4 90 also had endless starting issues and earth strap was eventually the solution so hopefully you’re sorted now.

[scottdurban]

Looks like we’re winning for now. False flag on the ABS, TC, and Park brake as disappeared - would always come up with wet weather, which we had spots of today and did about 200km of errands, with 5 no hesitation starts. Including yesterday that’s about <10 good starts with no issue. In the past I found a long drive or wet weather were the main issues when wanting to start, albeit sometimes not, but I almost always banked on warm engine or wet engine being an issue.

yay! Hoping this helps anyone looking! Real easy job! Need a 13mm for battery, 10mm for earth strap (under driver side fender, each end) and a 15mm long socket with extension (to make it easier) to do the earth on the transfer case. Some contact cleaner and maybe some q20 to help those corroded bolts loosen and get back in. Oh yah and some sand paper and patience. Make sure she is cold, have to touch the exhaust a few times. Should only take you 20 to 30 minutes. Took me 1hr because I cleaned the speedo sensor plug and transfercase sensor plugs (some bits had found their way in there from mudding I imagine. The transfer sensor plugs also looked to have water ingress, so sprayed out and reattached. Will probably need to replace that part of the loom at some point!

for anyone looking or asking, I did the recommenced, unlock, turn to on, turn off and then remove negative battery terminal within 17s to avoid the apparent immobilizer sounding. It didn’t happen for me, so either I did it right, or it’s not a thing.

cheers for now guys!

[scottdurban]

Spoke too soon! So while she had been starting confidently, today after a long drive and climb up stockville road, got to the shops, and then she wouldn’t start once I was getting ready to go again. This is inline with the hot engine guess...

My gut goes back to ignition switch - because I can bump start her...