300tdi waterpump replacement in bush

[jelo]

I'd replace all the radiator hoses and blank off the heater core.

[alspal]

I'd replace all the radiator hoses and blank off the heater core.

heater blanked off, all radiator hoses replaced, egt also blanked off. Thanks for the advice anyhow.

[alspal]

Alspal

Considering everything seems to be water related I would get hold of some welsh plugs

Not sure if they all the same size - I really hope I am wrong on this one though

Then some radiator leak stop - not nice to use but better than nothing

At 160 k that landy isnt even run in yet
Mine has 800 k on

When you get back to sa consider a madman kit - saved my butt many a time

Otherwise kyk suid en gaan aan - Enjoy

thanks for the advise Ross. I am actually carrying welsh plugs. Why would i replace those...I am not loosing any coolant/water. And vehicle has 16k not 160k on, so engine brand new!!!...ex british military that never made it to service.

Vehicle is heavily loaded with all the expedition Equipment. Was initially sagging quite abit in the back eventhough the hd springs. Lost a bumpstop on the omerate route south. Had the rear springs replaced by ome +200kg springs in nairobi and is now sitting just right!

vehicle is getting hot when giving full gas on uphills, when i back off it settles again...dont know if that is normal due to the heavy load. Anyhow i replaced the usual culprits- expansion cap, thermostat, y-joint, new coolant, radiator cap, thermostat housing cap. Vehicle is not loosing any coolant, i check that every morning. I hope with the faulty waterpump replaced (bearing was pretty much destroyed) my heating issues would be over. I have in the meantime installed an egt temp gauge and water level monitor...had some free time waiting for the part from nairobi! Madman will have to wait till we finally arrive in SA!

btw. Whats normal operating temp for the egt and at which Egt temp should i back off/stop?

thanks for all the tips guys!! Keep them coming!

[RossJ]

Alspal

On the temp rising quickly when pushing it

I had the same issue and took forever to solve

turned out that the mechie didnt put back the three rubber strips around bottom and side of radiator - a 50 rand issue

In terms of temps - egt I have mine set at 680 deg to be safe but will if need be run to 720 for 10 sec or more

Water temps shouldnt see over 92 - 96 max

I hope you arent seeing the temp gauge in the vehicle moving as that only starts to move at 105

Then how are you bleeding the water system

I fill up expansion tank till at correct level - thermo housing bolt off
then open top of radiator and fill thru thermostat housing till bleeding out no bubbles
close expansion tank and fill at thermo housing

run till top hose is hot
check water level in expansion tank next day

then 16k - that is so super cool

As an MoD vehicle it is possible you have some "funny" stuff so not all comparisons might be spot on

[jelo]

Never exceed 720 deg C on the EGT when fitted pre turbo.

[alspal]

Alspal

On the temp rising quickly when pushing it

I had the same issue and took forever to solve

turned out that the mechie didnt put back the three rubber strips around bottom and side of radiator - a 50 rand issue

In terms of temps - egt I have mine set at 680 deg to be safe but will if need be run to 720 for 10 sec or more

Water temps shouldnt see over 92 - 96 max

I hope you arent seeing the temp gauge in the vehicle moving as that only starts to move at 105

Then how are you bleeding the water system

I fill up expansion tank till at correct level - thermo housing bolt off
then open top of radiator and fill thru thermostat housing till bleeding out no bubbles
close expansion tank and fill at thermo housing

run till top hose is hot
check water level in expansion tank next day

then 16k - that is so super cool

As an MoD vehicle it is possible you have some "funny" stuff so not all comparisons might be spot on

Hi Ross,
can you eleborate on the 3 rubber strips at radiator?
turned out that the mechie didnt put back the three rubber strips around bottom and side of radiator - a 50 rand issue
Which? And can i double check those?

refilling i was following the lr workshop manual.
refill from expansion tank with both radiator and thermo caps off. Fill till all bubbles gone and level expansion tank same as radiator. Fit radiator plug. Add 1l of coolant and allow settle. Fit thermo plug and expansion plug. Run engine 5min, switch off and allow to cool. Recheck level coolant.

temp gauge On dash move direction red on days when giving full power uphill with heavy load. Other days no issue.

Do you perhaps know the correct torque for the belt tensioner bolt? Workshop manual says 45Nm...found a post on here that says 14Nm. Which one is correct?

cheers!

[clivemd]

Your radiator might still have the bleed hole in the baffle that separated the cross flow, that is why could be getting hot as some hot water is being pushed through hole and not going across radiator to cool properly
think they call it the tropical mod where the hole was blanked off

[RossJ]

My manual also says 45 nm for centre bolt on belt tensioner

I have a Disco 1 but assume the defender to be the same for the radiator strip story

If you look at the top of the radiator you will see a rubber strip that is only connected to one side but has a layer that extends out thereby "sealing" that gap - so between radiator and body

there should be another strip underneath and one on either side
The one on the oil cooler side of the radiator is a bit shorter than the one on the power steering fluid side

You said you replaced the radiator - does it have the tropical mod on it

I bought the 3 missing ones at a scrapyard hence the 50 rand chirp

On the refill process yours sounds as per manual - so not saying its wrong

That Y piece you replaced is supposedly an auto air bleed anyway

[antvz]

I'd replace all the radiator hoses and blank off the heater core.

I just want to clarify something here in the interests of accuracy. On a 300 Tdi you don't blank off the heater core. You bypass it. In other words, the pipes that travel from the cylinder head to the heater core and back, must be connected so that coolant still flows along this path.

The heater works by opening/closing air flaps that give access the core. Coolant, however, flows continuously through the heater core whether the heater is set to hot or cold.

I trust this makes sense. Failure to do this correctly can cost you a cylinder head.

[clivemd]

I just want to clarify something here in the interests of accuracy. On a 300 Tdi you don't blank off the heater core. You bypass it. In other words, the pipes that travel from the cylinder head to the heater core and back, must be connected so that coolant still flows along this path.

The heater works by opening/closing air flaps that give access the core. Coolant, however, flows continuously through the heater core whether the heater is set to hot or cold.

I trust this makes sense. Failure to do this correctly can cost you a cylinder head.

i installed a hose valve from a hilux onto the one hose I kept valve 95% closed all the time and never had head or overheating problems, that was 10 yrs ago

[alspal]

I just want to clarify something here in the interests of accuracy. On a 300 Tdi you don't blank off the heater core. You bypass it. In other words, the pipes that travel from the cylinder head to the heater core and back, must be connected so that coolant still flows along this path.

The heater works by opening/closing air flaps that give access the core. Coolant, however, flows continuously through the heater core whether the heater is set to hot or cold.

I trust this makes sense. Failure to do this correctly can cost you a cylinder head.

correct! I bypassed it not blanked it off.

[alspal]

My manual also says 45 nm for centre bolt on belt tensioner

I have a Disco 1 but assume the defender to be the same for the radiator strip story

If you look at the top of the radiator you will see a rubber strip that is only connected to one side but has a layer that extends out thereby "sealing" that gap - so between radiator and body

there should be another strip underneath and one on either side
The one on the oil cooler side of the radiator is a bit shorter than the one on the power steering fluid side

You said you replaced the radiator - does it have the tropical mod on it

I bought the 3 missing ones at a scrapyard hence the 50 rand chirp

On the refill process yours sounds as per manual - so not saying its wrong

That Y piece you replaced is supposedly an auto air bleed anyway

didn’t replace the radiator only the hoses. Radiator is 3core type, the tropical mod is an interesting topic and something i will def have to check out next time i am close to a workshop. I first have to drain all coolant liquid to see the baffer plate. In bush currently with only 5l of coolant-enough to top up and get me out of here once waterpump is replaced. Part just arrived will be fitting shortly...hold thumbs!!

[jelo]

I just want to clarify something here in the interests of accuracy. On a 300 Tdi you don't blank off the heater core. You bypass it. In other words, the pipes that travel from the cylinder head to the heater core and back, must be connected so that coolant still flows along this path.

Yes, sorry, should also have clarified. This is pertinent for most engines.

[RossJ]

Alspal

On the tropical rad mod

I am sure I took something like a cable tie and pushed it thru the rad bleed hole and it is about halfway up the side - so no need to drop all the water

Mine does have a small hole in the centre - probably no bigger than the thickness of an apple charge cable

In trying to find my running hot I kept a digital thermo scan thingy with me and checked areas of the rad regularly - and the heat distribution showed even across the entire width of radiator decreasing as I got lower down

Do you have an aircon radiator in front of the main radiator ?

I really dont like the fact that the needle in the cab is moving at all

[alspal]

Got the part in the bush!!! and best of all the part was for 300tdi and identical to original part. The waterpump they sent was from blue-print incl gasket...never heard of them. Didnt have any other option so fitted it after soaking gasket in warm water for 15min. Waterpump went on beautifully, wp pulley also no problem, when fitting the powersteering pump pulley two of the bolts tightened up, the third stripped. Took it out and inspected the thread, bolt head and thread fine...so thread in powersteering pump stripped. Must have happened while i was struggling to get it out. I put locktite all over it and threaded it back in. Hope the 2 other bolts will suffice... toughts?

After that fitted a new tensioner (torque 45Nm) from bearmach and new belt dayco.
Topped up the coolant and idled the engine for 5min.

tomorrow we are heading to the coast, fingers crossed everything is installed correctly and not leaking. Thanks for all the help!!

[alspal]

Alspal

On the tropical rad mod

I am sure I took something like a cable tie and pushed it thru the rad bleed hole and it is about halfway up the side - so no need to drop all the water

Mine does have a small hole in the centre - probably no bigger than the thickness of an apple charge cable

In trying to find my running hot I kept a digital thermo scan thingy with me and checked areas of the rad regularly - and the heat distribution showed even across the entire width of radiator decreasing as I got lower down

Do you have an aircon radiator in front of the main radiator ?

I really dont like the fact that the needle in the cab is moving at all

Ross,

im defiantly going to have the radiator looked at when we get to mombassa. Thanks for the cable tie tip, I will pocking around with it to find the hole.
how big is the hole supposed to be. ie. Non tropical mod size?

The thermo image of the radiator is also not a bad idea! Cheers!

[jfh]

Got the part in the bush!!! and best of all the part was for 300tdi and identical to original part. The waterpump they sent was from blue-print incl gasket...never heard of them. Didnt have any other option so fitted it after soaking gasket in warm water for 15min. Waterpump went on beautifully, wp pulley also no problem, when fitting the powersteering pump pulley two of the bolts tightened up, the third stripped. Took it out and inspected the thread, bolt head and thread fine...so thread in powersteering pump stripped. Must have happened while i was struggling to get it out. I put locktite all over it and threaded it back in. Hope the 2 other bolts will suffice... toughts?

After that fitted a new tensioner (torque 45Nm) from bearmach and new belt dayco.
Topped up the coolant and idled the engine for 5min.

tomorrow we are heading to the coast, fingers crossed everything is installed correctly and not leaking. Thanks for all the help!!

Check coolant level in radiator, thermostat housing and expansion tank before starting tomorrow morning.

[alspal]

Also, i forgot to mention i added an aircon recently. Aircon condensor sitting nicely infront on radiator. Might that be source of my heating problems?

[jelo]

Also, i forgot to mention i added an aircon recently. Aircon condensor sitting nicely infront on radiator. Might that be source of my heating problems?

Oh for sure

[Tickford49]

Morning Ross,

yes thats me. We made it through Djibouti, Ethiopia and currently in Kenya. Ethiopia i thoroughly enjoyed up to the point where they didnt want to stamp us out at omerate border post... 5 days later and a letter from the SA ambassador to Ethiopia eventually got us over the border.

Our aged defender is coming up with all sorts if surprises. Up till now on our trip i have replaced the thermostat, Expansion tank cap, y-joint going into expansion tank and now the water pump, belt tensioner, sepentine belt. Defender has 17000km on has however been standing for past ~20years. What spares should i stock up on the next chance i get?...realisticly

thanks for any advice!

Has it had a timing belt change?