Ultimate Koi pond renovation - Page 2





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  1. #21
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Thanks Johan let me know when you're back I'd love to come check out your setup.

    I'm going as deep as possible this time around, I'm of the opinion that bigger is better. I always have friends wanting to emigrate and give their fish a good home.

    I'm going overboard with filtration.

    As a prefilter I bit the bullet and ordered a cetus sieve prefilter, as I have a huge amount of leaf litter and the sieve filters are relatively maintenance free.

    I will then build a moving bed bio filter and use the 3 bag sand filter from the old pond.

    I plan on using 2 pumps after the biofilter one feeding the waterfall which I'll turn off at night and one feeding the underwater returns.

    We are down to 1.5m today. Still digging in thick clay.Click image for larger version. 

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    Darren

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  2. #22
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Following as I have a pond with koi in. Cannot call it a koi pond yet as it does not have a filter system thus water dirty but have a pump to move the water and fish are breading. Lots of small koi.
    Last edited by Erwin Schimper; 2020/10/24 at 12:56 PM.

  3. #23
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Just a side question to the experienced people, do you have problems with birds eating your fish? If so what’s the solution? Hiding places for the fish to conceal themselves?
    Roy


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  4. #24
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Quote Originally Posted by royjacobs View Post
    Just a side question to the experienced people, do you have problems with birds eating your fish? If so what’s the solution? Hiding places for the fish to conceal themselves?
    Roy
    The answer to that is either a net, no shallow areas or only large fish.
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  5. #25
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    I've seen a grey heron in my pond on numerous occasions. We have a child safety net on which the heron stands on and catches goldfish.
    Darren

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  6. #26
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    Default Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Ok, so let me give this a go.

    Filter:

    - The filter is made up of three chambers, settlement, static, and moving media

    - All pond water is first fed into the settlement chamber via a 110 mm bottom drain pipe routed into the lowest part of the chamber where it terminates with a socket in a vertical upright position so another 110 mm PVC pipe section can be loosely fitted into the socket for drain flushing purposes when required and to clean the settlement chamber. The second feed to the chamber is via surface skimmer, which is simply another 110 mm pipe positioned at the correct level to the desired pond water level into the chamber. This can be fine-tuned somewhat by later loosely fitting a 90 deg pvc elbow to adjust to the desired level 100%.

    - The settlement chamber also has a drain fitted which should be 50 mm at least and either connected to a pump that can 'suck' and handle some debries or ideally if the landscape allows be able to simply be flushable by gravity, which is rarely the case. A good option is to actually invest in sewerage cutter pump on a rope which you drop in as needed, in which case you can forfeit the drain.

    - From the settlement chamber you have a further one or two 110 mm vertical stand-pipes (probably two to manage the flow) taking water from the top of the chamber to the bottom of the second static media chamber. Again you need sockets on these, so you can fit loose 110mm pipes later to block flow going into the second chamber when doing maintenance.

    - The second chamber, where the static media resides needs a grid at the bottom that prevents the media, which is typically made up of special plastic pieces just slightly more buoyant than water on which bacteria can grow, from migrating into the settlement chamber, and into the waster drain if fitted. If no waste drain is fitted, see above, then you need a sewerage cutter pump fitted with a basket to avoid sucking up your media on a rope to drain this chamber for cleaning. This chamber is also fitted with an aeration system/ring at the lowest point, which is only activated for cleaning purposes.

    - The static chamber feeds the moving media/bed media chamber via two to three slotted 110 mm pipes positioned at the surface, like an overflow; - this prevents the media from migrating to the third chamber.

    - So thus far water flows from the bottom drain and the surface of the pond into the settlement chamber, there the heaviest bits settle out of the water column and remain behind in that chamber, the finer particles migrate to the second chamber and flow from the bottom through the static media plastic bits and into the moving bed media. As the static media gets filled with particles it starts to clog up, and this is where the beauty of this system comes into play. You simply open the air supply to the air ring at the bottom of the chamber, insert the standpipes on the settlement chamber sides that feed the chamber, let it run like that for 30 minutes and then drain the water either via the drain or sewerage cutter pump. The agitation of introducing air into the plastic particles completely mixes up the dirt and water and allows for efficient flushing of the waste. I do this perhaps once every three months.

    - The final step is the moving bed, which is very similar to the static chamber, except that here the air supply is left on permanently and the return pump resides here, returning the water back to the pond. A DC pump with low lift, high volume suffices, i.e. there are big power consumption savings to be made. Optionally a submersible quartz sleeved UV light can also be placed in the chamber here. Generally this chamber does not need much flushing.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Static chamber with slotted overflow pipes not fitted yet, air ring visible at bottom and grid to stop media going to drain and back to settlement chamber

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    Moving bed chamber with pipe going back to pond and water feature (I run two DC pumps in there), air ring visible again, and grid at bottom to stop media going to drain

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    Settlement chamber, unfortunately without standpipes to static chamber visible. Surface skimmer inlet visible and auto top up.

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    Pond on filing up first. Coprox.

    Last edited by Kortgat; 2020/10/26 at 05:19 PM.
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  7. #27
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    In case anyone is wondering this is what the media looks like.



    And my pond today

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  8. #28
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Where can I get that media. Need to get a filter going soon. My pond is black

  9. #29
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Quote Originally Posted by Erwin Schimper View Post
    Where can I get that media. Need to get a filter going soon. My pond is black
    Most Koi places, but WARNING, it’s not cheap.

    Basically this: https://rebelpets.co.za/shop/all-pro...r-media-20ltr/

    I've got about 250 liters in my system.
    Last edited by Kortgat; 2020/10/26 at 07:38 PM.
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  10. #30
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    That is not cheap and nothing like that in Namibia. Thus will be even more expensive but I need to get it.

  11. #31
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Near vertical sides from my experience. Bowl like sides are harmful to fish as the water gets very hot .

  12. #32
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Wow Kortgat,
    Great info for a newbie like me.
    I was actually hoping to have a gentle sloping side at the highest end in my design to create a ‘natural look’. Appears this is not advisable from what I see here?
    Roy


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  13. #33
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Quote Originally Posted by royjacobs View Post
    Wow Kortgat,
    Great info for a newbie like me.
    I was actually hoping to have a gentle sloping side at the highest end in my design to create a ‘natural look’. Appears this is not advisable from what I see here?
    Roy
    It's fine, as long as it's not too shallow there, actually there is no hard and fast rule, but you don't want massive shallow areas as they will cause heat build-up and algae problems, unless you committ to creating a massive wetland area there, i.e. heavily planted with reeds etc. - very densely planted and a place the large fish cannot go and dig up constantly. If you create a shallow sloping shelf say 30 cm deep that covers 30% of the pond area, that's perfectly fine, as long as it all slopes down nicely towards the bottom drain so all derbies settle towards the drain. The more sun your pond gets the deeper you want it and the less shallow areas you can get away with. If you want the natural look, certainly make provision for shelves for aquatic plants, but do so in a way so that your koi cannot easily reach them, as koi and carp will constantly dig them up. Remember shallow areas also invite predatory birds.
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  14. #34
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Yes it’s a toss up on ‘what you gain to what you lose’ by trying to mimic Mother Nature


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  15. #35
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    I have a pump, filter and large UV light that I took out of my sisters KOI pond when I filled it in for her.

    Give me a shout if you're interested and ill send pics.
    Padraic Berry

  16. #36
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Thanks for the info Kortgat, that's my plan for my filters, except I've replace the settlement tank with a cetus sieve filter for less maintenance(hopefully). Those moving bed k1 filters are apparently brilliant.

    Kortgat does your last chamber not run low with the pump in that chamber?

    I got most of the fittings and pipework from astore today.

    Today we are almost at 2m. It's a very big hole.

    My plan now is to line with a geomembrane or PVC sheet, place bottom drain and pipework. Then place rebar reinforcement. Use a premixed concrete and lay the base(slab) with reinforced foundations for wall. Then build wall with 390x140x190 hollow concrete blocks, reinforced from the base vertically and horizontally every 2nd layer. I will fill the bricks with concrete. The walls will then be back filled with all this clay. Then coprox plaster and coprox waterproof paint.Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Rymerdr; 2020/10/27 at 04:11 PM.
    Darren

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  17. #37
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Quote Originally Posted by NewLandy View Post
    I have a pump, filter and large UV light that I took out of my sisters KOI pond when I filled it in for her.

    Give me a shout if you're interested and ill send pics.
    Please send pics

    Darren
    Darren

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    Sometimes it's worth walking around with wet shoes all day, if it means you can jump in the puddle.

  18. #38
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Quote Originally Posted by Rymerdr View Post
    Thanks for the info Kortgat, that's my plan for my filters, except I've replace the settlement tank with a cetus sieve filter for less maintenance(hopefully). Those moving bed k1 filters are apparently brilliant.

    I got most of the fittings and pipework from astore today.

    Today we are almost at 2m. It's a very big hole.

    My plan now is to line with a geomembrane or PVC sheet, place bottom drain and pipework. Then place rebar reinforcement. Use a premixed concrete and lay the base(slab) with reinforced foundations for wall. Then build wall with 390x140x190 hollow concrete blocks, reinforced from the base vertically and horizontally every 2nd layer. I will fill the bricks with concrete. The walls will then be back filled with all this clay. Then coprox plaster and coprox waterproof paint.Click image for larger version. 

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    100% just plan out your pvc pipes very carefully. Make those solvent welds ultra clean.
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  19. #39
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    It's now 6m diameter and 2m deep. The next job is to dig the filter pit so I have gravity flowing filters. Due to the increased size I'm adding a 2nd bottom drain.

    I've had some suggestions for marbelite and for fibreglass to seal the concrete. Kortgat (in your experience)how long will the coprox last before I need to redo it? Click image for larger version. 

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    Darren

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    Sometimes it's worth walking around with wet shoes all day, if it means you can jump in the puddle.

  20. #40
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    Default Re: Ultimate Koi pond renovation

    Quote Originally Posted by Rymerdr View Post
    It's now 6m diameter and 2m deep. The next job is to dig the filter pit so I have gravity flowing filters. Due to the increased size I'm adding a 2nd bottom drain.

    I've had some suggestions for marbelite and for fibreglass to seal the concrete. Kortgat (in your experience)how long will the coprox last before I need to redo it? Click image for larger version. 

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    In my experience you will probably never need to redo it. It’s integrated into the plaster and the slurry you put on just seals it off. Remember it’s not like a pool where you have a kreepy and chemicals working away at that surface constantly either. My previous pond was built 12 years ago at my old house and is to my knowledge still good. The owner phoned me sometimes with koi questions. My current pond is about seven years now.

    Ps I’d not bother with a second bottom drain on that pond size.
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