Temporary fitment of fridge slide





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  1. #1
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    Default Temporary fitment of fridge slide

    I have a client with a Ranger DC. They are caravaners and he wants to fit his fridge on a fridge slide in the back of his Ranger. Except for Rivnuts and smart plans to secure the fridge slide?
    Wicus Diedericks

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Temporary fitment of fridge slide

    I cut 9mm ply to fit snugly into the load bin (the load bin has an epoxy lining and I also put 1mm rubber matting under the ply. Secured the the battery and fridge slide to the ply. Absolutely no movement at all.
    In the event of a roll-over , I know all hell will break loose.
    Sam
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  4. #3
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    Default Re: Temporary fitment of fridge slide

    Quote Originally Posted by SamM View Post
    I cut 9mm ply to fit snugly into the load bin (the load bin has an epoxy lining and I also put 1mm rubber matting under the ply. Secured the the battery and fridge slide to the ply. Absolutely no movement at all.
    In the event of a roll-over , I know all hell will break loose.
    This is the same as what I am intending on doing.

    Except the rollover bit. Not planning on doing that.
    2018 Ranger DC 2.2 XLS Auto 4x4

    Canon 5DMkIV with L-goodies.

  5. #4
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    Default Re: Temporary fitment of fridge slide

    Thanks, how did you tie the plywood down? Or was that cut to the shape of your bak?
    Wicus Diedericks

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    Default Re: Temporary fitment of fridge slide

    Ply is not tied down ................ never been happy to drill holes in the bak.
    Ply is cut to shape.
    With the weight of a battery, fridge slide (I have a 72 ltr NL) and other bits and pieces when we go camping, nothing moves.

    Around town, the fridge is out. still no movement.
    Sam
    ZS1SAM
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  8. #6
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    Default Re: Temporary fitment of fridge slide

    Quote Originally Posted by SamM View Post
    Ply is not tied down ................ never been happy to drill holes in the bak.
    Ply is cut to shape.
    With the weight of a battery, fridge slide (I have a 72 ltr NL) and other bits and pieces when we go camping, nothing moves.

    Around town, the fridge is out. still no movement.
    Good alternative. But nothing moves along with the ply on a gravel road?

  9. #7
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    Default Re: Temporary fitment of fridge slide

    Quote Originally Posted by Teryos View Post
    Good alternative. But nothing moves along with the ply on a gravel road?
    I'm OTT about protecting things, so also have a sheet of 1mm rubber matting, cut to shape, on top of the ply.
    Nothing shifts; and we have travelled Namibia extensively, Richtersveld etc.
    Off to Tankwa and Cederberg tomorrow
    Sam
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  11. #8
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    Default Re: Temporary fitment of fridge slide

    Quote Originally Posted by SamM View Post
    I'm OTT about protecting things, so also have a sheet of 1mm rubber matting, cut to shape, on top of the ply.
    Nothing shifts; and we have travelled Namibia extensively, Richtersveld etc.
    Off to Tankwa and Cederberg tomorrow
    Do you mind share a photo or two of the platform, please? I intend to do something similar in my wagon, don't wanna drill hole.
    Last edited by Teryos; 2020/09/16 at 03:20 PM.

  12. #9
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    Default Re: Temporary fitment of fridge slide

    Bakkie is packed for our trip.
    I'll send you pm now
    Sam
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  14. #10
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    Default Re: Temporary fitment of fridge slide

    You could always use Sikaflex to stick the plywood platform to the load bed?
    Jakes Louw
    2012 Jeep Sahara Unlimited 3.6 V6
    Percivamus

  15. #11
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    Default Re: Temporary fitment of fridge slide

    I would cut the board to fit as tightly as possible to the floor space. Front, back and sides and around wheel arches. Then use flatbar steel and bend it in a L-shape. The short section of the L to fit tightly on top of the board. To make a tighter fit, you could glue some of those rubber strips to the bottom. The top section to be long enough to be tightened using the holes for the tie down points.

    You did not say what Ranger. The T6 has 2 tie down hooks at the front and 4 at the back, 2 on each side behind the wheel arch.

    I have also used about 10mm square tubing where I have welded a short section to the top to form a T. I then inserted threaded rod into the tubing. I then positioned the T portion under the overlap of the side. The threaded side went into a hole in the board. A washer and nut was used to create a stop. Another washer and bolt was then used where the threaded rod went into the tubing. By turning the nut one could then secure the board to the loadbin floor.

    If you can lift the board slightly off the floor with spacers of wood sections or what ever, it will give you room to fit eyelid bolts to the board that you can use to secure ratchet straps for securing your load onto the board.

    It might not look the best, but it worked for me.

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