I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!





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  1. #1
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    Default I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    Hi Guys!

    It's been quite some time since I've had a 4x4 and actively partcipated on the forum. Finally picked up my new "old" baby yesterday, so I'm back. Just wanted to check in again and introduce myself.

    My vehicles details are:

    Make: Mitsubishi
    Year: 2003
    Model: Pajero 3.2 di-d LWB
    KMs: Approximately 182 000km

    Already have a to do list since driving it around the past day. These include:
    • Replace the top guide on the timing chain
    • There is a noticable vibrating noise and feeling when going past 110km/h. It's not massive, but something to check out. I'm thinking it might be wheel bearings? If anyone has any ideas as to what it might be, please let me know.
    • The center difflock light flickers flickers after driving for about 30 minutes. The fact that this isn't happening right from the start tells me it shouldn't be the sensors. I think the level might be low.
    • The blue screen's buttons don't seem to work. When I press ADJ to set the time, only the calibrate compass option lights up blue. So can't set the time yet.


    For now, that's it.
    Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    Regards, Pierre
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to domkiki For This Useful Post:


  3. #2
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    [QUOTE=domkiki;4434900]Hi Guys!

    Hi

    Already have a to do list since driving it around the past day. These include:
    • Replace the top guide on the timing chain

      • Yep, good that this checked.




    • There is a noticable vibrating noise and feeling when going past 110km/h. It's not massive, but something to check out. I'm thinking it might be wheel bearings? If anyone has any ideas as to what it might be, please let me know.
      • Have the wheel balancing done before anything else





    • The center difflock light flickers flickers after driving for about 30 minutes. The fact that this isn't happening right from the start tells me it shouldn't be the sensors. I think the level might be low.
      • This could be vacuum related. Sometimes the solenoids get sticky from lack of use. Try shifting between 2H and 4H regularly for a week or so. Also while parked (N) shift through all the modes a few times. If that does not work then lubing up the vacuum pump switches in the engine bay near the airbox may help.




    • The blue screen's buttons don't seem to work. When I press ADJ to set the time, only the calibrate compass option lights up blue. So can't set the time yet.
      • Hmm the clock never worked well on those.



    If you're looking for a good Mitsu mech in CT then Jacques Norval is a good option (very passionate).

    Cheers

  4. #3
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    [QUOTE=ChasingSunsets;4434916]
    Quote Originally Posted by domkiki View Post

    If you're looking for a good Mitsu mech in CT then Jacques Norval is a good option (very passionate).

    Cheers
    Thank you! I will give him a call. It's quite far to drive there and back for a service from Paarl, but if that's the only guy around, then I will surely make the trip.

  5. #4
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    Good mileage for a 2003.

  6. #5
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    I was advised once, by Dastech, that it is also good to replace the oil pressure sensor as it is close to the turbo and the heat can cause premature housing failure and an oil leak. Sensor is cheap.

    Dastech has many years experience and used my vehicle to develop their plug in chip. This is a good motor and they see vehicle with 600 000 km plus comming in for servicing.

    I am still sorry I sold my shorty
    Find the solutions, not the problems.

  7. #6
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    Ian is also in the Western Cape (I think Belville) o828235925. Recommended by many Mitsu owners down there.

    I would also add a cleaning and blanking off of the EGR to my list of stuff to do. Maybe also take a peek into the intake manifold to see if there is a lot of buildup. If you do decided to clean the manifold you dont have to get it removed. There is a product you can spray into the inlet manifold while at 2000rpm. This burns almost all that gunk away. Its like someone that has been smoking for 40 years getting a new pair of lungs.

    Enjoy.
    Last edited by jooste777; 2020/07/17 at 01:17 PM.
    Jacques Jooste

    2011 Triton 3.2 Auto 4x4

  8. #7
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    Quote Originally Posted by Morne - Skip View Post
    Good mileage for a 2003.
    Yeah I've been looking for a while

  9. #8
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    Quote Originally Posted by JBX View Post
    I was advised once, by Dastech, that it is also good to replace the oil pressure sensor as it is close to the turbo and the heat can cause premature housing failure and an oil leak. Sensor is cheap.

    Dastech has many years experience and used my vehicle to develop their plug in chip. This is a good motor and they see vehicle with 600 000 km plus comming in for servicing.

    I am still sorry I sold my shorty
    That's great advice, thanks so much. Will go on my list

  10. #9
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    Quote Originally Posted by jooste777 View Post
    Ian is also in the Western Cape (I think Belville) o828235925. Recommended by many Mitsu owners down there.

    I would also add a cleaning and blanking off of the EGR to my list of stuff to do. Maybe also take a peek into the intake manifold to see if there is a lot of buildup. If you do decided to clean the manifold you dont have to get it removed. There is a product you can spray into the inlet manifold while at 2000rpm. This burns almost all that gunk away. Its like someone that has been smoking for 40 years getting a new pair of lungs.

    Enjoy.
    You're right, defintely need to blank the EGR. Is this something that can be undertaken with relative DIY easy, or would you recommend the specialists doing it? I'll also do some research on the product you are speaking about.

    Ofcourse, the list will have to be ranked according to criticality and risk. So for now I think I have to do a thorough check on all fluid levels and have the guide replaced.

  11. #10
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    Quote Originally Posted by domkiki View Post
    You're right, defintely need to blank the EGR. Is this something that can be undertaken with relative DIY easy, or would you recommend the specialists doing it? I'll also do some research on the product you are speaking about.

    Ofcourse, the list will have to be ranked according to criticality and risk. So for now I think I have to do a thorough check on all fluid levels and have the guide replaced.
    The egr blank should be an easy DIY. Assume your engine bay looks the same as mine. I bought a Welsh plug, i think 26mm for R15.
    https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...19#post4431119

    This is the product I used. Was R330 at Goldwagen.
    https://shop.liqui-moly.co.za/pro-li...RoCPIUQAvD_BwE

    There is also a video on that link of what you need to do.
    Jacques Jooste

    2011 Triton 3.2 Auto 4x4

  12. #11
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    Nice vehicle
    Estee = S T = Sean Towlson

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  13. #12
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    Quote Originally Posted by jooste777 View Post
    Ian is also in the Western Cape (I think Belville) o828235925. Recommended by many Mitsu owners down there.

    I would also add a cleaning and blanking off of the EGR to my list of stuff to do. Maybe also take a peek into the intake manifold to see if there is a lot of buildup. If you do decided to clean the manifold you dont have to get it removed. There is a product you can spray into the inlet manifold while at 2000rpm. This burns almost all that gunk away. Its like someone that has been smoking for 40 years getting a new pair of lungs.

    Enjoy.
    Yep, EGR blank is a good idea. The gunking of the inlet manifold seems to be more of a problem on the common rails, but its definitely worth a check.

    However, I would not use those intake cleaner products if its really bad. I had mine stripped and properly cleaned.

    This is what my Gen 4 common rail looked like after 250k.
    Pajero - Intake Manifold.jpg

    I'm not sure any product will get rid of that and I don't think its healthy for the engine to suck that in and expel it (which is what happens with those products). What happens to the CAT if its still in place? In theory these products liquefy the carbon but.... I think those cleaners are useful to keep it clean, but when it looks like this they may be a very bad idea and in my mind (personal opinion ) that carbon wont go well with piston rings and oil lubrication.

    But, I'm not a mechanic and only learning
    Last edited by ChasingSunsets; 2020/07/17 at 10:22 PM.

  14. #13
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    That is a gem of a Pajero! I am not that technically inclined - I will have to have my inlet manifold checked out, now on 240k km. WRT the adjustment of the dash display - very clever car - does not allow adjustment when driving, lesson learnt (2011 Triton)
    Mitsubishi Triton DC 3.2 A/T 4X4
    2007 Hilux 2.5 D4D SOLD

  15. #14
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    Quote Originally Posted by Johan Engelbrecht View Post
    That is a gem of a Pajero! I am not that technically inclined - I will have to have my inlet manifold checked out, now on 240k km. WRT the adjustment of the dash display - very clever car - does not allow adjustment when driving, lesson learnt (2011 Triton)
    Thanks for that! Sorted the time haha

  16. #15
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    Quote Originally Posted by domkiki View Post
    Hi Guys!

    It's been quite some time since I've had a 4x4 and actively partcipated on the forum. Finally picked up my new "old" baby yesterday, so I'm back. Just wanted to check in again and introduce myself.

    My vehicles details are:

    Make: Mitsubishi
    Year: 2003
    Model: Pajero 3.2 di-d LWB
    KMs: Approximately 182 000km

    Already have a to do list since driving it around the past day. These include:
    • Replace the top guide on the timing chain
    • There is a noticable vibrating noise and feeling when going past 110km/h. It's not massive, but something to check out. I'm thinking it might be wheel bearings? If anyone has any ideas as to what it might be, please let me know.
    • The center difflock light flickers flickers after driving for about 30 minutes. The fact that this isn't happening right from the start tells me it shouldn't be the sensors. I think the level might be low.


    For now, that's it.
    Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    Regards, Pierre
    For the centre diff lock it is likely a vaccum issue as mentioned earlier.
    I had the same issue, the cause was they the front diff wasn't "unlocking" so the front driveshaft was always spinning causing the flashing centre light.
    An easy way to check if it is that, is drive the car forward with someone looking if front driveshaft is turning. if it is turning that is your issue.
    Check the vaccum solonoid at near the airbox, make sure all the hoses are connected and not cracked.
    Then climb under and make sure it is connected to the acuator then test to see if you feel vacum but putting you finger on the end of the hose. The little pin thingy (sorry to be technical) can get stuck as well but you can operate that manually by pulling and pushing it in and out (not practical for actual use).
    Unfortunately the vacuum solonoids are quiet expensive from Mitsubishi and hard very hard to come by second hand but it is an very easy fix.

    As for the vibration at 110km/ph the torque converter has a locking feature which comes on around 110 you will hear a slight different noise and see the revs drop a little, will disconnect if you push the right foot. balance you wheels first but might be something to thing about.

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  18. #16
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    Default Re: I've been gone for quite some time - but I'm back!

    Quote Originally Posted by ozranger View Post
    For the centre diff lock it is likely a vaccum issue as mentioned earlier.
    I had the same issue, the cause was they the front diff wasn't "unlocking" so the front driveshaft was always spinning causing the flashing centre light.
    An easy way to check if it is that, is drive the car forward with someone looking if front driveshaft is turning. if it is turning that is your issue.
    Check the vaccum solonoid at near the airbox, make sure all the hoses are connected and not cracked.
    Then climb under and make sure it is connected to the acuator then test to see if you feel vacum but putting you finger on the end of the hose. The little pin thingy (sorry to be technical) can get stuck as well but you can operate that manually by pulling and pushing it in and out (not practical for actual use).
    Unfortunately the vacuum solonoids are quiet expensive from Mitsubishi and hard very hard to come by second hand but it is an very easy fix.

    As for the vibration at 110km/ph the torque converter has a locking feature which comes on around 110 you will hear a slight different noise and see the revs drop a little, will disconnect if you push the right foot. balance you wheels first but might be something to thing about.
    Hi Ozranger

    Thanks for the info. Will definintely check it out. As I said, it (the center diff light) only happens when driving after 20/30 minutes or so.

    WRT the vibration, I will first sort out the alignement, just take the "cheap" fixes out of the equation first.

    Thanks once again.

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