DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser - Page 8





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  1. #141
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    Quote Originally Posted by ColeGP View Post
    I hate to tell you this but I don't think you will be able to find one, I also was looking out of interest as I am considering making some adjustments but there seems to be no stock locally.
    You may need to get a stainless steel one and have somebody braise it for you (vs solder)
    Probably the best way. With the column upgrade this side I was surprised how not cheap the bigger sizes of compression couplers are, ie copper to male iron with back nut for 42mm to connect to the lid. As I am building two it ain't funny and being so seldomly required we don't stock them so special order it is.
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  2. #142
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    Quote Originally Posted by ColeGP View Post
    I hate to tell you this but I don't think you will be able to find one, I also was looking out of interest as I am considering making some adjustments but there seems to be no stock locally.
    You may need to get a stainless steel one and have somebody braise it for you (vs solder)
    A small machining shop with no work could make a fortune.

    Who's got the SS ones, Ketelkraal had none of those either.

  3. #143
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Leigh View Post
    A small machining shop with no work could make a fortune.

    Who's got the SS ones, Ketelkraal had none of those either.
    Try guth or NDP they most likely will have the fittings, gaskets and the tri clamps.
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  4. #144
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    For the record, my keg is Grade 304, stamped into the keg. I understand 304 to be food grade?

  5. #145
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Leigh View Post
    For the record, my keg is Grade 304, stamped into the keg. I understand 304 to be food grade?
    Yes. Should be anti-magnetic.
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  6. #146
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    Talking Tri-clamps.

    Picked mine up today. It came with the silicone gasket which has location ridges on both sides. The keg does not have a ridge.

    Do you get the sealing rings ridged on one side only?
    Last edited by Andrew Leigh; 2020/06/27 at 11:09 AM.

  7. #147
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Leigh View Post
    Talking Tri-clamps.

    Picked mine up today. It came with the silicone gasket which has location ridges on both sides. The keg does not have a ridge.

    Do you get the sealing rings ridged on one side only?
    I cant find the video now but there was a guy on youtube who very carefully uses a sharp stanley knife to cut the ridge off the one side... voila.

    ha found the video
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3XPHXfjanw
    Last edited by ColeGP; 2020/06/27 at 10:30 PM.
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  8. #148
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    Gasket Modified.

    So I am wanting to get the PID controller in a box and all sorted. I do not want the incoming power or the power to the element to be permanently wired into the enclosure so was thinking of using a IEC C13 and C14 combo plug (ones in the rear of a computer tower). These however are rated at 10A and I need 15A.

    Any suggestions?

  9. #149
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    My PID will be wired with a 3 pin female plug build into the side of the box. A normal round pin wall plug.

    I will then just plug the existing power cord for my element into the 3 pin on the box.

    .
    Last edited by KobusDJ; 2020/07/02 at 12:21 PM.
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  10. #150
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    I can't see another way out of either.

  11. #151
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    I built a box out of wood for my STC1000, and wired up a 3 pin plug receptacle, keeps little hands from pulling on wires.
    What I am trying to do is get my hands on a 3 pin receptacle that allows each plug to be wired seperately (used to be like that in the old days, threw away a ton of them when we rewired our home )
    Then I will be able to wire one plug to come on for cooling and the other plug to come on for heating.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #152
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    I think I may go with this for the element side.


  13. #153
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    Water flow.

    So the reason for the water in at the bottom out at the top is not to get a temperature gradient but if if you fill from the top you are never assured of having a full Liebig as gravity is not your best friend. So that got me thinking. I have bought a gate valve for flow control, this then would be best suited on the output (hot side) from the Liebig?

  14. #154
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Leigh View Post
    Water flow.

    So the reason for the water in at the bottom out at the top is not to get a temperature gradient but if if you fill from the top you are never assured of having a full Liebig as gravity is not your best friend. So that got me thinking. I have bought a gate valve for flow control, this then would be best suited on the output (hot side) from the Liebig?
    correct, you install the valve at the top.
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  16. #155
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    So some progress. I can't rotate the pic. Will trim the distillate outflow pipe only once fully mounted to the column and mounted on the keg.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  17. #156
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    Talking parrots.

    Why the huge discrepancy in heights of the two bowls in a parrot. I cannot see why they cannot be the same height based on the fact that water will find the same level.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Andrew Leigh; 2020/07/06 at 09:10 AM.

  18. #157
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Leigh View Post
    Talking parrots.

    Why the huge discrepancy in heights of the two bowls in a parrot. I cannot see why they cannot be the same height based on the fact that water will find the same level.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The pipe on the left if where the distillate drips in, it has to be higher on the left in order to ensure that it does not overflow as you want all the distillate to come out on the right, if it is the same level once it fills up the distillate will start to pour out over both sides.
    It doesnt need to be a huge difference, 5cm should be sufficient.
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  19. #158
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    Deleted, comment posted not accurate.

    Ok the penny has just dropped. I was relating it to the "parrot beak" and not the height of the tube in the middle.
    Last edited by Andrew Leigh; 2020/07/06 at 02:49 PM.

  20. #159
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    More progress;

    First pass of 220grit, still lots of work to go.

    The straight SS Parallel Socket for the element is now welded in place. (The camera angle makes it look like its not square but it is).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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  22. #160
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    Default Re: DIY - Alcohol Pot Still using a Copper Water Geyser

    OK more progress. Remember the keg is purely a transition to get me distilling while I convert the geyser into a kettle.

    So in the picture the column is not vertical as it is not yet brazed, hoping my mate will Braze / Silver Solder it for me tomorrow. The unions have also not been fitted hence the 15mm copper pipe holding up the condenser. The element will be positioned to the rear but for illustrative purposes is shown here. I need to continue polishing up the keg and will polish up the copper when all the soldering and brazing is complete.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    If I am to cut the column it needs to be tonight. To me it simply looks too long to be a pot still. I will be removing 50mm in any event in order to fit a top cap to the top of the T Piece. This will make the column height 580mm from the base to the c3ntre of the 22mm output of the condenser.

    I would appreciate input on this.
    Last edited by Andrew Leigh; 2020/07/17 at 07:03 PM. Reason: Added last comment

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