1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project - Page 4





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  1. #61
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Quote Originally Posted by John Lindsay View Post
    I have just finished rebuilding a Boxford lathe and had to repair some gears and make up others from scratch as it is just too expensive to import these. To repair a missing tooth or two, I cut a slot across the gear and brazed in a piece of the same material (cast iron) Then I ground a fly cutter bit using the good teeth as a gauge. Gashed out with a slitting saw on the mill and then finished with the fly cutter and touched up with a needle file - got a perfect result.

    The new gears I turned, gashed out with a slitting saw and then fly cut to profile. A bit slow but the end result is great. I made myself a simple indexer using laser cut plates to get the required divisions. Gears are cut on a mandrel which replaces the chuck - a 3-jaw chuck has runout and does not center the workpiece accurately enough to cut gears.
    Very nice . What mill have you got.I guess a fly cutter is the simplest option. Buying a set of cutters is way to expensive because for every pitch you need a set of eight gears to cover the range.I was thinking of using the button method to make my own cutters but i dont really have a need for gears so its more a curiosity thing. I think what you are saying is if you lay a gear that has been laser cut flat on a surface the gear teeth are wider on top than they are at the bottom. I wonder if they are wire cut if it would work but that is not a cheap alternative.

  2. #62
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Yes, wire cutting would be very accurate, very good finish. I was quoted R 970 to wire cut one small gear, so that didn't work for me either. If you can find someone to do it cheaply enough it would be a great solution. I have a Rong Fu drill-mill. Not the greatest but it does get the job done. Paid R5k for it plus spent another R2k to rebuild, so waaay cheaper than the Bridgeport I would really love to have.

    I made my own fly cutter for gear cutting, see pics. Grips into a 16mm ER25 collet, takes 4mm HSS toolbits. I rough grind the toolbit, then grind to the approximate circle using a tapered grinding point held in a collet in the lathe. Toolbit is clamped in a toolholder and I raise and lower to grind the top and bottom profiles. Then I finish it off with the bench grinder and India stones. A bit painful but it gives a nice end result.
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  3. #63
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Reading through the manuals and the video, the next step was to disconnect the leadscrew and pull that from the gearbox.

    Alas, my lathe's leadscrew will not simply pull loose as it was stuck in the carriage. I tried to find the issue, but there was no way I could get the carriage's gears or nut to disengage and allow it to freely slide or run over the lead screw. This means that it is NOT a simple case of pulling the leadscrew through the carriage.

    OK, let me disassemble the carriage then to get that out of the way and get the leadscrew and the feedshaft removed.

    Off came the apron levers and handwheels.








    The lever and wheels all fit onto splined shafts so these need to be pulled off. One wheel wanted the company of a puller on its way off the shaft so we provided such service gladly.





    There is a ball and spring on the underside of the leadscrew nut handle. Do not let it jump out!





    Next onto getting the toolpost removed. This is one item I want to replace. A quick change toolpost is just so much easier to use. Something else on my wishlist!





    Removing the top nut revealed an axial deep groove ball bearings. The details on the bearing are Hoffmann W11/8





    Pulling the top section of the post upwards was easy, but something went clink ... not a sound I like to hear. Peeking around the post and there it lies.





    A ball that is located on a spring that obviously keeps the top section under pressure against the bearing. For future reference here it is located where it normally resides. Maybe it had a bit of cabin fever like we all have currently and jumped at the chance for fresh air!





    The hole was full of grease and fine cuttings. Obviously never cleaned in a very long time.





    Pulling the top section from the spindle was easy. Things that happens too easy normally means something bad has happened. Again I was right ...




    Inside the top section are three horisontal bores through the side wall. Two appears to have springs in it, one with a ball showing. The other ball missing.







    This time I did not hear any clink or tink. Fortunately we found it on the pan just below the toolpost.





    Time to safely stash the two balls and their springs in a little bag. While holding the bag open Carl dropped the previously missing ball. This time it fell on the floor. After cleaning the whole workshop, moving all the workbenches we only found the one fuse terminal that went AWOL a while back. The ball is still missing, but the woodwork workbench with the very heavy woodwork lathe on is now wobbly .... so my gut tells me, that the ball is stuck below the one wooden leg panel. Another job for another day.

    Life goes on and so does the restoration project. Time to reflect and drink some good coffee. At least the place is clean again and I found the fuse terminal. Life is good!

    For future reference there is a grub screw at the external end of the horisontal bore. This grubscrew must be unscrewed, and the grubscrew, the spring and ball be removed before lifting the post's top section. I have no idea what the other bore is for. Maybe for oiling? One ball, two springs, the one too short and two grub screws.





    Toolpost removed and time to remove the compound slide (I hope this is what this is called). It is held in place with two bolts that fits from underneat the cross-slide with the nuts located in a slot in both sides of the compound slide. You need to undo each of the nuts and then the compound slide lifts off, leaving the bolts.









    The lathe status at the end of this day. One part missing, one part found.





    ... and still no solution as to how the leadscrew can be unlocked. Time for bed and for brain to work on a solution.

  4. #64
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Quote Originally Posted by John Lindsay View Post
    Yes, wire cutting would be very accurate, very good finish. I was quoted R 970 to wire cut one small gear, so that didn't work for me either. If you can find someone to do it cheaply enough it would be a great solution. I have a Rong Fu drill-mill. Not the greatest but it does get the job done. Paid R5k for it plus spent another R2k to rebuild, so waaay cheaper than the Bridgeport I would really love to have.

    I made my own fly cutter for gear cutting, see pics. Grips into a 16mm ER25 collet, takes 4mm HSS toolbits. I rough grind the toolbit, then grind to the approximate circle using a tapered grinding point held in a collet in the lathe. Toolbit is clamped in a toolholder and I raise and lower to grind the top and bottom profiles. Then I finish it off with the bench grinder and India stones. A bit painful but it gives a nice end result.
    @John, thanks for this great and usefull info. Do you perhaps have better photos of the gear mounted while being cut? Even better a video you can share?

    I was offered free time on a milling machine to cut my gears required. So I am interested to see how you mounted the gears and cut them. Also do you have a CAD drawing of the laser cut indexing plate you could supply me with?

  5. #65
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Could the missing ball be stuck in the sole of your shoe?

  6. #66
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    What did your lathe come with .?You could set it up like this.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo

  7. #67
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Hi Mygoggie - I will do a mock setup on the mill over the weekend and take some photos. PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you the CAD drawings for the indexer - are 2D PDF's ok plus the index plates on an Autocad file for the laser cutter?

    The old roundnose Colchester Student is an excellent lathe and well worth all the pain to restore.
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  8. #68
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Quote Originally Posted by plunger View Post
    What did your lathe come with .?You could set it up like this.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo
    Brilliant idea @plunger. Thanks for this.

    My lathe came with no extras. It was an unwanted forgotten lathe stuck in the back of a workshop under a lot of junk.

  9. #69
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Quote Originally Posted by John Lindsay View Post
    Hi Mygoggie - I will do a mock setup on the mill over the weekend and take some photos. PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you the CAD drawings for the indexer - are 2D PDF's ok plus the index plates on an Autocad file for the laser cutter?

    The old roundnose Colchester Student is an excellent lathe and well worth all the pain to restore.
    I have sent you a PM. Yes those documents should be fine.

  10. #70
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Does anyone know where I can get hold of the little oilers? The ones with the steel ball and red faceplate?

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  11. #71
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Huster Machine Tool Company perhaps?
    https://www.huster.co.za/
    Last edited by Francois Theron; 2020/05/22 at 09:14 AM.
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  12. #72
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Quote Originally Posted by Francois Theron View Post
    Huster Machine Tool Company perhaps?
    https://www.huster.co.za/
    Dankie Francois, ek het hulle 'n e-pos gestuur.

  13. #73
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Quote Originally Posted by mygoggie View Post
    Brilliant idea @plunger. Thanks for this.

    My lathe came with no extras. It was an unwanted forgotten lathe stuck in the back of a workshop under a lot of junk.
    With method if you welded or borrowed a right angle plate you could use your topslide as a vertical milling slide. I would grind a flycutter tooth using the profile of your gear as a template. The beauty of this is the bigger the mdf template the less deviation from true is the cut.

  14. #74
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Quote Originally Posted by John Lindsay View Post
    Hi Mygoggie - I will do a mock setup on the mill over the weekend and take some photos. PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you the CAD drawings for the indexer - are 2D PDF's ok plus the index plates on an Autocad file for the laser cutter?

    The old roundnose Colchester Student is an excellent lathe and well worth all the pain to restore.
    I agree . I have a beautiful austrian lathe with pretty much everything I need (not really thats impossible) but what it lacks is rigidity in a small footprint. This colchester is a perfect size and beefy at the same time.
    I did my apprenticeship on a square head student.

    Mygoggie if you cant find those ball oilers they would make a perfect first project..Its simply a matter of peening the spring in place and using old ball bearings.
    Last edited by plunger; 2020/05/22 at 09:41 AM.

  15. #75
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Quote Originally Posted by plunger View Post
    With method if you welded or borrowed a right angle plate you could use your topslide as a vertical milling slide. I would grind a flycutter tooth using the profile of your gear as a template. The beauty of this is the bigger the mdf template the less deviation from true is the cut.
    The irony is that I had a 400mm diam indexing plate with holes laser cut for the research biogas reactor I built. I gave the plate away during my NZ move cleanup. It now serves as a sideplate for a braai's fire cage. At least the plate now brings a lot of joy in its second life!

  16. #76
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Quote Originally Posted by plunger View Post
    Mygoggie if you cant find those ball oilers they would make a perfect first project..Its simply a matter of peening the spring in place and using old ball bearings.
    I went and had a look. You are quite correct. Some brass tubing, a spring from a Bic pen, an old ball bearing and a washer and off we go! Thanks for the tip @plunger.

  17. #77
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Quote Originally Posted by B Murr View Post
    Could the missing ball be stuck in the sole of your shoe?
    Alas, my safety shoes' soles are too worn down. If only it was the case ....

  18. #78
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Quote Originally Posted by plunger View Post
    I have a beautiful austrian lathe with pretty much everything I need (not really thats impossible) but what it lacks is rigidity in a small footprint.
    Send me the model number and I will see what I can design to increase the rigidity. After all this is one thing I do know something about...

  19. #79
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    You can buy oilers of all types from Lubrication Equipment, 6 Liebenberg St Alrode - 011-864-7759
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  20. #80
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    Default Re: 1953 Colchester Student Mk1 6" gap bed - A restoration project

    Quote Originally Posted by mygoggie View Post
    Alas, my safety shoes' soles are too worn down. If only it was the case ....
    Magnets are great for such a search. You can temporarily magnetise a steel ruler by placing magnet from something like an old speaker on one end while sliding the other end into those nooks,and crannies.

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