ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report - Page 2





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  1. #21
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    Love, love, love it! Merci beaucoup, Serge.

    Many of us are undoubtedly singing the Marseillaise as we are transported - from this uncertain world that we have found ourselves in - to the simple life on the roads less travelled in Zambia.

  2. #22
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    Indeed, merci beaucoup Serge. Many of us commenting here have a very deep affection for Zambia and know it well.

    I have not explored the pristine Lake Tanganyika as far west as Ndole Bay and now will be compelled to do so after your words.
    I have also not traversed North and South Luangwa as you describe and likewise itch to put that right after your tour de force.

    Great feedback and inspiring traveling, thank you.
    Landcruiser 76SW.

    “Great journeys are memorable not so much for what you saw, but for where you camped”.

    At least "Once a year go someplace you have never been before" Delai Lama.

    Trans East Africa 2015/2016 Trip report http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...e16?highlight= from post 315.

  3. #23
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    Quote Originally Posted by LesMarseillais View Post
    30/7/18: Ndole Bay lodge – Chishimba Falls – Kasama - 353km

    ........Next time, we will visit the Lumangwe Falls: the Chinese are building a new road between Mporokoso and Kawambwa…........


    Serge, a question please. How far have the Chinese got on the road between Mporokoso and Kawambwa? When we drove there in 2015 to the magnificent Lumangwe and Kabweluma Falls, this was the toughest stretch of road imaginable.

    Is this to be a surfaced road or merely an upgrade of a dirt road and how much further might the improvements extend? Does anybody have an inkling?
    If a decent road then excitingly, it will appreciably open up the north-west of Zambia with its unprecedented myriads of waterfalls and also ease the approach to the pristine west side of the southern tip of Lake Tanganyika in Zambia.
    Landcruiser 76SW.

    “Great journeys are memorable not so much for what you saw, but for where you camped”.

    At least "Once a year go someplace you have never been before" Delai Lama.

    Trans East Africa 2015/2016 Trip report http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...e16?highlight= from post 315.

  4. #24
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    Very nice comprehensive report and photos, thanks. Brought back many memories, couple of photos taken at Ndole Bay in 2014, I doubt much has changed.
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    Malcolm
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  5. #25
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    3/8/18: Kalovia camp – Nsefu sector – Mfuwe - Marula lodge – 86km

    At 5h45 we were woken up by the scream of our fish eagles. At 7h00 we were on the road for the 17km to Chikwinda gate, the north entrance of the Nsefu sector of South Luangwa NP. After paying the park fees, we were in the park at 8h00… We were a bit late but I was very happy to come back to this marvelous national park and to discover the Nsefu sector.

    The plan was to follow the east bank of the Luangwa river on the “riverside road”. Sometimes, the GPS was lost but we just had to follow a main direction and it was all right. Once, we had to drive 3 times around the same huge lagoon to find the small exit road.

    Later, we crossed a muddy river with steep banks. We saw elephants, giraffes, pukus, impalas, one bateleur eagle, a herd of buffaloes and many birds. There were very few cars.

    We left the park at 11H00 passing through the Milyoti gate in order to reach Mfuwe. There were two sand rivers to cross. The first one was easy, but you have to keep the momentum on the second one (Lupande river) if you don’t want to get stuck in front of all the children waiting for this to happen… 1 or 2 km later, we were on the Mfuwe road. It was a strange feeling to be on the tar again after all these kilometers in the bush. But we’ve done it: we’ve crossed the Luangwa valley. At the beginning, I must admit I was worried about the sand and the river to cross. But at the end, I really enjoyed crossing rivers… It was fun.

    We arrived in Mfuwe at 12h00 and after refueling, we had some excellent chicken wraps at Tinbe shop, a nice coffe shop at the end of Mfuwe when driving to the bridge.
    Welcome back to the civilization…

    At 13h00 we were at Marula lodge, our final destination of the day. And we discovered a nice place with every thing you need and a green garden ending with the Luangwa river. This lodge has several kinds of accommodations (tents, dormitory, rooms) and we had what they call a “very comfortable room” for 100USD/night. The room and the bathroom are very clean and comfortable with a wonderful shower.

    Our hostess explained us that hippos and elephants are free to walk in the garden, and that all you have to do is: don’t move and don’t shout…

    After a dip in the pool and a small siesta, we were ready for our first self drive in the Mfuwe part of the South Luangwa NP. We drove around the Wafwa lagoon where we saw elephants, pukus and waterbucks, but no predator… Perhaps tomorrow morning… The landscapes are similar to those in the Nsefu sector, with more cars…

    We had diner at the lodge with a Zambian girl at our table. She said she was learning French since 2 weeks and yes, she could speak a little bit French! We went to bed at around 20h00 in a very large and comfortable bed. As usual, we had some noise this night (hippos, lions, hyena…).
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  7. #26
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    Thank you very much for reading this trip report. I will try to answer to your questions.


    mcowell: according to your photos, I confirm that nothing has changed in Ndole Bay lodge, still a lovely place... A few years ago, I visited your place Simon's Town. Lovely place also... I wish to come back one day, to cycle along the wild coast to the Cape of Good Hope...


    Stan: I am honoured to be a (small) source of inspiration for you. I agree the road to Ndole Bay is tough but you won't regret it. When I read the few reports about Ndole, everybody agreed it is very far but nobody regretted the long road.

    I read all your reports through Africa which I found very very interesting. Your stories gave me lots of ideas. Merci beaucoup Stan.

    The road between Mporokoso and Kawambwa looks now finished with good tar:

    http://www.daily-mail.co.zm/new-road...e-communities/

    A good source of inormation about new roads constructed are the zambian press and their website, but you have to know which road is going to be built.
    So during my researches before the trip, I found a zambian gouvernment website resuming all the calls for tenders for road constructions in all the areas of Zambia.

    If it is the same kind of road as the one between Kasama and Mporokoso, it should be a marvelous road with no pothole (and nobody).

    As you say, it will certainly develop economy and tourism in the North West Zambia and makes the waterfalls road more easy to drive.
    But I believe that you still have to drive to/back Mporokoso if you want to go to Ndole Bay. The road from kaputa to Ndole looks very very bad. If there is a road...

    If the road to Kawambwa had been opened, we might have drove through the Bangweulu Swamps or Kasanka NP then to Samfya, Kawambwa, Lumangwe falls, Mporokoso and Ndole Bay.

    Wazungu W: I'm afraid that the marseillaise will be inaudible for some time, since this morning... But I am happy to "transport" you. I have also read your reports with great pleasure. I found very detailed informations about Zambia and Kenya in your reports. Merci beaucoup WW !

    Ortelius: thank you very much also for your reports. Your website is superbe. Many ideas also... you have to tell me if our paths has crossed in Luangwa valley, according to the dates.

    Afpac: thanks a lot also for your nice reports and for your support. I wish you the best, one day when you'll travel to Lake Tanganyika...

    Fats: merci beaucoup également. The ideal itinerary could be the same with at least 3 more days in Kafue NP, then travelling North West on the waterfalls road from Samfya to Ndole (with 2 more days, at least) , come back to Kasama and finish with North and South Luangwa.

    Anne and Boslover : thank you very much for your interest and for your email
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  9. #27
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    Quote Originally Posted by LesMarseillais View Post
    Ortelius: thank you very much also for your reports. Your website is superbe. Many ideas also... you have to tell me if our paths has crossed in Luangwa valley, according to the dates.
    Serge, our paths definitely have crossed on 3/8/2018, somewhere between Nsefu and Luambe NP. On that day, you were traveling south from Kalovia camp to Mfuwe and we were traveling north from Mfuwe towards Kanunshya camp. Small world.
    24 hours in a day.... 24 beer in a case.... Coincidence?
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  10. #28
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    Hi Serge,

    Thank you for a superb report. It really re-ignited (if we ever lost it!) our interest for the hidden gems of the Northwestern part of Zambia.

    Reading this was an excellent tonic for these troubling times we are experiencing all over the World.

    All the best,

    AP
    Last edited by apfac; 2020/03/15 at 09:51 PM.

  11. #29
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    4/8/18: Marula lodge – Lion plain SLNP – Mfuwe - 143km

    At 5h00, the night guard of the lodge knocked the door: “morning”… We left the lodge at 6h00. This morning, the plan was to drive to Lion Plain, in the North of SLNP.
    During my first trip in Zambia, I spent 2 nights in Lion Camp and we could see every day the Holywood pride of lions. So I was looking for them...

    We drove along the Luangwa river for 1.5 hour until we arrived at the plain. The sunrise on the river was splendid. On the way, we saw lots of animals: elephants, kudus, zebras, birds, warthogs and even a bush pig (my first one). In the plain, we spotted a first hyena and then 3 others hidden in the bush and sleeping.

    And about 200m further, we had a pack of 12 wild dogs. We stayed with them for half an hour. But they were at the shade... not good for photos... We were 3 cars only around them.

    After this wonderful sighting, we went back slowly to the bridge and we arrived at the lodge at 11h30, for lunch, swimming pool and siesta. We used the common kitchen of the lodge to prepare our lunch. From the garden, we could see a nursery of young hippos on the opposite bank of the Luangwa River.

    At 15h30, we were ready for our afternoon game drive and we decided to drive in the zone around the bridge. We saw the same animals as usual and were looking for lions or leopards. We saw an elephant with a strange leg, maybe due to a collar…

    At 17h38 (!), Nathalie saw some movement in the tall grass and yes !! A female leopard appeared from the bush, just for us two. She crossed the road in front of us and disappeared quickly in the bush. What a good day: this morning the wild dogs and this afternoon a leopard. Nathalie was very proud to be spotter.

    We drove another loop to try to see again the leopard, but it was 17h55. Time to leave… We were on the bridge just in time. Later, we had dinner with a French woman just arriving from Botswana. Talking with her reminded us our first safari together in Moremi and Chobe NP, 3 years ago…
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  13. #30
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    5/8/18: Marula lodge – Zikomo camp (Nsefu sector) – 150km

    After a cup of tea in the room, we packed everything and were on the road at 6h15 for a quiet morning drive along the Luangwa river. We saw one hyena coming back from the river for a drink, and later on, another one trying to catch a puku. The puku was walking in the direction of the hyena and when it was 2 meters from the hyena, the puku saw it, jumped and ran away quickly. No chance for the hyena.
    We had another "runner" this morning: a hippo who wanted to go back to the river… As everybody knows, never stay between a river and a hippo.

    After a good breakfast near a lagoon, with many Egyptian gooses, ibis and storks, we saw an eagle on the ground, just near the road. It couldn’t fly and stayed not far from the car for a while. We will learn later that it was a juvenile brown snake eagle…

    At about 11h30, it was time to leave and stop for shopping in Mfuwe (no wine but good vegetables). We had lunch in a local restaurant, located in a quiet garden, not far from the road. We waited for an hour some food which was not good. But at the end of the meal, the owner arrived from the church with all her family and explained us that the cook was not there today… She was a nice lady and we were happy to have met her.

    We left at 14h30 and we arrived 40 minutes later at Zikomo camp, driving back a now well known road... Zikomo camp has a campsite and a lodge and is located along the river just at the entrance of the Nsefu sector of the South Luangwa NP.

    The place is charming and very quiet compared to Marula lodge… Two sites were occupied: 1 Land Cruiser at the left and 2 tents 50 meters away at the right. We chose a nice site at the middle with a view on a grassland with some pukus grazing and the river behind. We were shown the camp installations by the attendant. As campers, we were allowed to enjoy the swimming pool and the bar. After a swim, we went for a siesta in our hammock.

    At 16h00 we were ready for our afternoon drive. We went through the Zikomo special access of the Nsefu sector. This access crosses a small almost dry river filled with big sand bags and it has steep banks. I chose to use it because I had already paid the park fees. Otherwise, I had to drive to the Milioty gate (3 km). We started with a nice herd of elephants and some giraffes.

    After that, we decided to follow the 2 cars from Zikomo lodge. They were driving fast (20km/h) without stopping for elephants or birds. I was sure they were looking for something special. Maybe a pride of lions?

    After a while, they both stopped near the private road of the Nsefu Camp. And yes, there was something special: 5 wild dogs! 2 on one side of the road, 3 on the other side. At the middle, there was a puku which was wondering how to leave that place.

    We had the feeling that 2018 was the year of wild dogs… We love seeing wild dogs, playing, lying down, yawning and greeting… Behind the puku, there were 2 elephants trying to fight. We stayed there half an hour and it was time to drive back to the gate, in order to leave the park before the gong of 18h00. On our way back we met a hyena that was going to cross the road. But instead of crossing, she lied down on the road, just in front of us. After 5 minutes, the hyena went back to the bush and we could leave…
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  15. #31
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    5/8/18 (end)...

    We arrived at Milyoti gate just in time and drove the bad road to Zikomo (which is just outside the park) in the dark trying to spot a genet or more with my torch. But nothing appeared in the dark… We arrived at the camp at 18h30 and I started to set up the tent and light the fire.

    Our neighbors from South Africa, proposed us to join them for a drink and to enjoy their fire, but we declined and told them we’ll joint them tomorrow. In fact, we were very tired this evening and went to bed as soon as we could. We were woken up many times during the night: lions were not far…



    6/8/18: Zikomo camp – 0km

    Today is another day of holyday in the holydays: no activity this morning and an afternoon-night drive with the lodge.

    I chose to do the night drive in Zikomo, because, around the Mfuwe area, night drives could be a bit strange. I did some, 3 years ago and we were about 10 cars with lights and noise, following a group of lions. It was like a circus and a big mess!

    In the Nsefu sector, I was sure we were going to be alone or with a maximum of 2 cars… So today, we didn’t touch the car and didn’t have to take down the tent. We had time to chat with our neighbors, a nice South African couple from Durban. The woman, Marianne, had an Ipad which can recognize the birds singing and could spot the birds with a gps map. She also had a trap camera in order to see what was happening near the camp during the night.

    Her husband, Jürgen was retired and was interested with the equipment of our Hilux and noticed that this car was really cleverly equipped for the bush. He told me he had before a Mercedes 4x4 that was regularly out of order (because of electronics?), so he changed it for a Porsche Cayenne which was really good on the tracks but he couldn’t equip it for camping because if he plugs a fridge on the battery he would lose the warranty… So he bought a Land Cruiser with a really good roof tent (very easy to set up). These people visit regularly the Parks of Africa and they really prefer camping than being in a lodge. Nathalie was sharing this point of view: freedom and nature instead of accompanied luxury… I take advantage of this thread to tell them that I lost their email, and they read this report, we would be glad to have some news...

    At 15h00 we were ready to go to the lodge for high tea with homemade cakes, served before the game drive. We met a nice Spanish couple, I would say a catalan couple, from Barcelona. They were about 30 years old and were camping also. So we were only 4 in the car. Good start…

    We were secretly hoping to see some lions… And bingo, our guide drove us straight to a pride of lions, eating the carcass of a young elephant. One lioness was really happy with the intestine… Some vultures were around the carcass at a safe distance from the lions.

    After that sighting, we stopped near the Luangwa river for sundowners and were ready for Nathalie’s first night drive.

    Half hour later, we saw a hyena and the guide told us that we might soon see a leopard...

    Hyenas in South Luangwa are mainly solitary and therefore are scavengers. In Serengeti, I saw some prides of 30 hyenas who could hunt easily some wildebeests. The guide was right, 5 minutes later we spotted a leopard lying on the grass. After 20 minutes, the leopard went away to hide in the bush, perhaps fed up with our lights…
    What a wonderful sighting. I came in Luangwa for leopards and they were there!

    With the open 4x4 we could enjoy the smells of the bush and all the stars in the sky. Fantastic!

    On the way back, we spotted the usual nocturnal animals: genet, civet, porcupine, and one more hyena. We came back at 20h00 and went straight to the bar to take away our 2 chicken curries that we ordered before the drive (USD10 pp).

    We joined our neighbors and were presented to the rest of their group: Tim and Yvonne with her sister Shelley. Tim and Yvonne are about 65 years old and are preparing their guiding exams. They want to become professional game drive and walking guide. Tim is also a professional photographer equipped with some new Sony camera and zoom (very miniaturized). Tim told me I should forget my Canon stuff and go for a Sony A9 (4000€ !!). I will think about it… one day… The Spanish couple joined us also after diner. We must say that we had a really wonderful welcome from these south African people: they were fully equipped with a caravan, a tent, 1 fridge, 1 freezer and proper glasses for wine… For the first time in Zambia, we went to bed very late, at 23h00…
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  17. #32
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    7/8/18: Zikomo camp – 85 km

    We had a short sleep and were awake at 5h30 and ready at 6h00 for our game drive. This morning, we planned to visit the Chichele hot spring and try to spot colonies of cranes or storks. We had to pass through the Milyoti Gate, to pay our park fees for the next days.

    As usual, except at Mfuwe bridge entrance, we were alone and the ranger was very friendly, talking about the 2018 football world cup and French players like Mbappe, Pogba or Umtiti. We arrived at the spring at 7h30 for a nice breakfast in the wild. The scenery was wonderful, we were at the middle of nowhere, in a large plain with dead trees divided by the river. We could see some smoke above the river. The water from the spring is very hot (54°C).

    There were some pukus, a small group of crowned cranes and two storks. We learnt later that our Spanish neighbors and their guide saw a lioness close to the spring at 9h30…

    We came back slowly and watched the flight of the cranes. They are so beautiful. As usual, we spotted some bee eaters, white fronted this time.

    After that, we met our neighbors who told us that they’ve spotted a leopard 15 minutes ago. So we decided to explore that area very slowly during 1/2h, but nothing. Except a surprise: a crocodile which was sunbathing quite far from his small river. Perhaps a female not far from her nest ?

    We came back to the riverside road to check the carcass of the young elephant we saw yesterday: there was only the skull left. All has disappeared: the nature recycling was already done.

    We went back to the camp at 11h00. After setting up the tent, we had lunch and siesta… This afternoon, we were going to dà another night drive with the lodge. We had another guide, Julias, whose knowledge about wildlife was fantastic. We saw many birds: Egyptian goose, snake eagle and a colony of white fronted bee eater with their nests like tunnels digged in the clay banks of a small river.
    For the sundowners, we came back to the riverside and saw the same pride of lions as yesterday, sleeping a bit far away…

    After a drink, it was time to turn on the light and try to spot some leopard. But no cat tonight, except a hyena. We saw a Mozambique nightjar on the road, civets, genets and hares. We came back at about 20h00 and took away our diner from the lodge to the camp.

    We met up with our neighbors for the end of the diner, to taste some excellent south African wines offered by Tim, the photographer – guide. At 23h00, we said goodbye to our hosts who were leaving Zikomo tomorrow morning in order to go to Wildlife Camp near Mfuwe. I told them, from what I read on the web, that this camp is very popular and very nice, but it can be a mess to get a campsite near the river. When we met them two days after, they were a bit disappointed about this camp: they felt it too crowded, compared to Zikomo…
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  19. #33
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    8/8/18: Zikomo camp – 0km

    Today was another day without using the car. We did our 2 activities of the day with the lodge. One morning game walk and one afternoon drive. Wake up at 5h00 in order to be ready for a small breakfast at the boma of the lodge, around the fire. Very nice place to wake up and very good food…
    Anna and Carlos, our Spanish neighbors, were going to do the walk with us. We were accompanied by the guide and an armed ranger. First, we walked through Zikomo’s special access to the Park.

    Our guide, Julias, explained to us many things about animal footprints and droppings, black and white termites… We walked a bit along the river and spotted crocodiles and young hippos. We heard some lions but we didn’t see them. I spotted a hyena quite close from us. While seeing us, its first reaction was to run away quickly.

    We saw many birds and one superb Pel’s fishing owl at the top of a tree. We stopped under this owl for a cup of tea and after that, we walked back slowly to the camp. The game walk was a good experience but I must admit I prefer game drives. Or maybe, a real tiring walk of 15km...

    When we came back to our tent, we had a nice surprise: Marianne and Jürgen had left a bottle of wine and a word for us in our tent to thank us for giving them some Avon bug guard against the tse tse flies. Thanks’ very much to them. They are really nice people.

    About the tse tse flies, we noticed that with the open car of the lodge, we were not bothered by them because they can escape from the car when they want. In our Hilux, the tse tse get trapped in the car and we got stung on our legs. Except if we had applied some Avon cream on our skin before (every 2 hours).

    For lunch, I cooked a big plate of al dente pastas with homemade tomato and garlic sauce. Comme à la maison! And after: siesta…

    At 15h30 we were back to the lodge, for the now traditional high tea. While eating some cakes, we saw a herd of giraffes walking along the Luangwa river.
    What a beautiful sighting.

    At 16h00 we were ready to leave. During the first part of the drive, we spotted a giraffe with lots of red billed oxpecker on its neck, a large herd of impalas and our first honey badger of the year.

    We stopped near the river for a drink and back to the car at 18h00 for the night drive, our last one of this Zambian trip...

    This time, we were lucky with the leopards.

    Nathalie spotted the first one, a young female (1,5 year according to the guide).
    And 30 minutes later, we saw a big male which was in a hunting position, looking at three impalas which were 20 meters from it. The wind was blowing in the good direction for the leopard.

    We waited there a bit to see what was going to happen but the leopard did not move and was too far from its prey. The guide said it will last a very long time before he could approach the impalas and try an attack. So we left the leopard at its stuff and went back to the camp. This evening, we had our diner at the bar before going to say goodbye to the Spanish guys.
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  21. #34
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    9/8/18: Zikomo camp – Nsefu sector – Mfuwe – Marula lodge – 90km

    This morning we did our last game drive in the Nsefu sector. Early wake up in order to pack everything and we said goodbye to the staff. Zikomo is a great campsite !
    We left at 7h00 for 3 hours of game drive.

    We saw nothing special this morning except a family of 30 elephants, with a bit aggressive matriarch. She clearly showed us that we were not welcomed around here.
    I had to drIve off road to skirt the elephants, under the eye of the matriarch. Nathalie was a bit worried…

    Later, we drove to the same place as yesterday evening, where we saw the leopards. But nothing, except the fresh leftovers from an impala. We spotted the flight of a couple of giant owls. This is always a wonderful sighting. But I had not enough time for a proper photo… We finished with the big herd of buffaloes of the Nsefu sector, no lion around…

    At 10h30, we left with regrets this wild part of the SLNP. It was so nice to drive there alone most of the times ... The Luangwa valley is just wonderful !

    We drove again the road from Nsefu to Mfuwe, a well-known road for us now, with its sand rivers and small villages with huts.

    When we met the tarred road, we turned left to have a break at Tribal Textiles, a local factory of tissues, tableclothes, bags… We had an excellent homemade burger there and visited the factory and the shops.

    Their tissues are certainly the nicest you can find in Zambia, but all was very expensive. But not for the american people we saw filling their bags with loads of marvelous fabrics (good for Zambian economy…). They were led by Norman Carr Safaris, an expensive safari company, founded by the inventor of the safaris in South Luangwa. In 1950, N. Carr asked to the Nsefu Chief, the permission for building a couple of huts for tourists who wanted to pay and see wild animals, and not to kill them. The Chief found it funny to pay just for seeing animals but accepted the money.

    After a short drive, we arrived in Mfuwe, with no need to refuel because we would do that in Chipata tomorrow morning… We were back to Marula lodge for our last night in the Luangwa valley.

    We started our afternoon game drive very early at 15h00 in the main part of the SLNP.

    At this time of the day, we were alone and we were lucky to be welcomed by a pack of 4 wild dogs lying on the first road on the right after the bridge. We followed them for a while on the main road until they decided to stop under the shade of a tree with some other cars coming.

    Then we drove a bit to the north and came back along the river and the lagoons (“wafwas”). On the way back, we were happy to meet again Marianne and Jurgen. And we had the luck to finish our last game drive with 3 lions, lying on the ground near the main road at 1km from the bridge. We were out of the park at 17h59… It was the last game drive of our trip... but what a nice one !

    Before dinner, we had a drink with the owners of the lodge. We had the opportunity to exchange about our travels and theirs. They were very interested with our trip to Ibo in Mozambique where we met a Swedish top class cook who owned a hotel there. For me, it was the only inexpensive way to visit the Quirimbas islands. But this is another story and I am not sure what happens there now after a big cyclone in 2019 and some terrorism actions in the area.

    It was also time to celebrate my daughter and my mother’s birthdays, taking advantage of the wifi available at the lodge !
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  23. #35
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    Very nice treat, will be keeping an eye out for future refrence...thank you!!!

  24. #36
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    Les Marseillais. Thanks for the report. You really had a proper and interesting visit to SLNP.
    Does the Avon bug guard work for Tsetse flies and where did you buy it?

  25. #37
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    Default ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    10/8/18: Marula lodge – Chipata – Cresta Golfview Hotel Lusaka – 700km

    After a good night in a large bed, we were ready to leave at 6h40. Before getting in the car, we walked in the garden for a last view of the Luangwa river and the hippos.

    We had the option to drive the wild Petauke road, which is shortest and nicest but, as it was our last day in Zambia, I didn’t dare to do this, just in case of mechanical problem.

    So let’s go for the very very long road to Lusaka. We refueled in Chipata and stopped for a healthy breakfast at the Protea Hotel. The road to Chipata was empty and well tarred. After Chipata, there were more cars and trucks, coming from Malawi.

    A bit later, we fell into a police trap: with their cameras set after a curve at the middle of nowhere, the police could arrest everybody “speeding” more than 50km/h. The result was a penalty of USD30 and an hour lost. There were lots of cars stopped there because they had not the cash to pay the fine (US30 is a lot of cash). I saw a woman imploring the policeman for the fine.

    This policeman who was straight but correct, told me when he saw I was French, that he would have preferred that Croatia had won the world cup instead of France… He was the first Zambian I met who was for Croatia! On the other hand, he was the first cop to fine me (in Zambia) and I preferred that it had happened at the end of the trip…

    On the road, we could have bought a true local specialty: rats kebabs.
    Is this the cheapest meat they can find or do they really prefer these to chicken ? We don’t know but we saw many kebabs sellers.

    The road was very good and new between Chipata and the bridge (thanks to EEC apparently). We saw charcoals sellers along the road, more than everywhere in Zambia, which is not good for the forest…

    We stopped for lunch at Bridge Camp, near the Luangwa bridge, on the last straight line for the Luangwa to meet the Zambezi river, at the 3 borders (Zambia, Mozambique and Zimbabwe). This area was very dry.

    We enjoyed a dip in the swimming pool of the restaurant with the view on the Luangwa river and the Mozambique bank. A very charming and quiet place. The food was ok.

    After the bridge, the road was made of good tar with a few potholes, with nice landscapes along the Lower Zambezi NP. The traffic was low.
    We had our first annoying policeman at a check point at the middle of nowhere. This guy wanted something from me. But, of course, I had no money, no cigarette, no coke… I finished to give him some water...

    As arriving in the suburb of Lusaka, the traffic increased and we reached the Cresta Golfview Hotel at 18h20. Very tired, but very happy. Oliver from Hemingways was waiting for us for the ”checkout” of the car. Apart from a strong cleaning, the Hilux was in the same state as when we left Lusaka 19 days ago.

    We did a wonderful trip with this excellent car, there had been no mechanical problem, not even a simple puncture in 3 weeks.

    This hotel was a correct 3* with a restaurant, a swimming pool and a garden with some impalas grazing. We stayed there until next day 16h00 when we had to leave to the airport.
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  27. #38
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    Default ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    11/8/18: Cresta Golfview Hotel

    Today was a wedding day and we could admire some Zambian couples just married coming near the pool for photos.
    The flight back to France was at 20h00. Bye Zambia, bye beautiful Zambia…



    Thank you for reading this report and for your support. I hope you enjoyed reading it.

    And don’t forget: visit Zambia. Zambians and Zambia deserve it.

    I finish this report on our second day of containment in France. As WW said later on, these days are uncertain…

    I wish you all the best…
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  29. #39
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    Thanks again for this wonderful report, Serge.

    I'm often asked, which is our favourite African country. I always answer (and I actually mean it), this is like asking which is your favourite child. But then again, we've been visiting Zambia for three (well, actually three and 1/2) times, more than any other African country....
    24 hours in a day.... 24 beer in a case.... Coincidence?
    -------------------------------------------------------------
    My blog: Our African Ramblings (https://safaribug.wordpress.com/)

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  31. #40
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    Default Re: ZAMBIA 2018, a late trip report

    Asante sana/merci beaucoup, Serge, for writing this wonderful report. A well-planned and well-executed trip to the wonderful Zambia. And something lovely for you to do/remember in the current lockdown in France.

    We too love Zambia and the Zambians: along with the Ugandans, they are the friendliest people in Africa. More difficult times ahead for Zambia with the collapse of tourism due to Covid-19.

    Keep well and I hope to hear from you again once we all, hopefully, return to the “sunlit uplands”.

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