Pajero Gen 2 restoration

[mygoggie]

It was time to restore my Paj after grueling trips and 400 000km.

There he is ... all rubbers, seals, bushes, bearings, universals and ball joints, brake, clutch and steering hydraulic systems in the front and rear replaced and or rebuilt. Was fun but took a loooong time and quite a bit of money.

The suspension is raised 20mm in front and 50mm at the rear with all new and longer teflon hydraulic piping.

Next to finish onboard dual air system (low pressure for diffs and gearbox pressure and high for pumping wheels and of course air mattresses) and dual battery system with PV panels on the roof rack.

[Vormoto]

We need more pics!!!

Please?

[Bostokkelos]

Jy het een groot fout gemaak.

Jy het te min fotos hier opgesit

[mygoggie]

Ja ja ... mens maak soms foute in die lewe. :-)

Ek sal more fotos neem.

Jammer moes vandag die steering pomp weer oorbou. Die service manual is verkeerd .... en toe spring die C-clip af van die assie. Darem geen skade nie. Net my hart het so bokspring gemaak toe die pulley amper tot teen die radiator beweeg.

[AboutAfrica]

Very pretty...

now I miss mine

[Bostokkelos]

Uhm....bump

[4eTouareg]

Well done!

You have extended the life on a fantastic vehicle.

It might have cost a lot of money but in context (compared to a new one) it must be a bargain.

I again salute you!

[mygoggie]

Well done!

You have extended the life on a fantastic vehicle.

It might have cost a lot of money but in context (compared to a new one) it must be a bargain.

I again salute you!

Thanks @4eTouareg. Yes, the Paj is basically brand new now except for the body. You are 100% correct in that a new vehicle would have costed a ton more compared to what I spent and then I would be stuck with a vehicle that is not easily repairable in the veld with all the new electronics ... This way, I know where I can drive with no fear of breakdown.

Sorry been so so busy during the day and simply exhausted at night. Will try and post pictures over the weekend.

[mygoggie]

I am really baffled as to how to get the air out of the power steering circuit. I have read all the threads I could find, actually bled the circuit at all the pipe joints and air is still present. The steering works 100% to the left, but to the right it is intermittent which most threads blame on air. When locked to the left I can feel the pump compressing air as the wheel pulses in my hand ...

Any ideas will be most welcome!

[Bostokkelos]

I have respect for anyone that totally restores a Pajero (Specifically) instead of going and buy a "newer" one.

I drive a Gen 4 Bk, its in really good nick now (previous owner was a shait talking liar") I really enjoy it, may you enjoy yours. and may the Legends live long!

[hogbeast]

i am about to start a project to renew my suspension/ steering. what brand ball joints and tie rod ends did u use? does it have grease nipples?

[4eTouareg]

i am about to start a project to renew my suspension/ steering. what brand ball joints and tie rod ends did u use? does it have grease nipples?

Bite the bullet and go Mitsu.

[mygoggie]

i am about to start a project to renew my suspension/ steering. what brand ball joints and tie rod ends did u use? does it have grease nipples?

I bought all original Mitsu parts. These worked out cheaper than trying to source others. Yes, all have grease nipples.

For steering, clutch and brake service kits, I bought online from Spain and these turned out to be all original parts as well.

[mygoggie]

OK, some photos of the suspension restoration process. I started off with the rear and completely stripped everything out. I then rebuilt the diff with new seals and bearings. I changed the single oil seal at the wheel side of the side shafts to a back to back double oil seal so that oil cannot get out and water cannot get in.

I also installed a grease nipple in the space between the two original oil seals and filled this with grease so that I now have a plug of pressurised grease between the wheel bearing and the side shaft end.

I also changed the air pressure compensating pipe to be coupled to the low pressure air circuit so that I can pressurise all oil containing vessels before going through water. This way water will not enter the diff, gearbox etc as the pressure in these are higher than the external water pressure.

Here is a picture indicating the seals and grease nipple.





The real life look.





New rear rotors, pads, handbrake shoes and caliper seals and springs. Also new teflon brake pipes fitted.




New longer hydraulic pipe to the diff. Once assembled and diff installed I had to adjust the spring tension to ensure the rear wheels brake first and not the front wheels. When you lift the Paj at the back the spring changes length and causes the load sensing proportioning valve to apply more pressure to the front brakes than the rear. This is quite dangerous and it is imperative to change the spring tension. After playing around I settled on a spring length of 217mm, a bit up from the original specified 175-180mm.




The diff ready to be rolled back under the Paj. If you reverse the rotors and install back onto the hub, they become wheels. In this photo you can see I am busy fitting the wheel arch rubber flares to ensure mud does not spray the whole side of the Paj full of mud. Works a treat!




I also made a new diff protector from fibreglass to protect it from sand blasting when driving long stretches of sandy roads. I used three layers of reinforcing. A very thick felt type reinforcing used in bumpers which was sandwiched between normal stranded fibre layers. It was a real job to get this done, release it and reinstall it. But it looks good, works well and is easily repairable when scrapped or dinged. I only did the bottom half of the diff so as to ensure the oil can still cool effectively.




First photo of Noddy with the rear lifted. We were on our way to the Cockscomb Classic event in Steydlerville and trusted that all the repairs were going to work 100%. Fortunately all turned out fine and it was great to drive with a redone rear suspension.

[hogbeast]

[QUOTE=mygoggie;4336231]I bought all original Mitsu parts. These worked out cheaper than trying to source others. Yes, all have grease nipples.


happy to hear this. I have a quote R13000, I was concerned I am paying for perceived quality. I already received the Poly bushes for the upper control arm from AD Components about R500 delivered.

will start a thread soon, just need to transverse a mountain on a bike this weekend

[mygoggie]

[QUOTE=hogbeast;4337267]

I have a quote R13000, I was concerned I am paying for perceived quality. I already received the Poly bushes for the upper control arm from AD Components about R500 delivered.

Poly upper bushes is another thing to discuss as simply putting the bush in using the piece of water pipe supplied as is, is not correct. The poly bush needs to create torque on the wishbone. I will make a post on this ....

I have a quote R13000

You can also request a quotation from www.euro4x4parts.com and see what it costs landed. Will be Mitsu MB parts or OEM parts.

[hogbeast]

The poly bush needs to create torque on the wishbone. I will make a post on this ....


Did you make the post yet seems I missed it

[mygoggie]

The poly bush needs to create torque on the wishbone. I will make a post on this ....


Did you make the post yet seems I missed it

Sorry, I have not had a chance to write this up. Last days before leaving SA so it has been really hectic my side. Will do this ASAP.

[hogbeast]

If you have a chance. What is the sequence to assemble these

[mygoggie]

If you have a chance. What is the sequence to assemble these

Sorry @hogbeast I missed this post of yours. I made a note of the sequence and will have to check for you.