Pajero Gen 2 restoration

[AboutAfrica]

Please give some advice
The top bump stops are still hitting after I cut a section off. I'm I correctly assuming the torsion bars are set to high. The front must lower?

Thank

sorry, you still hitting the TOP bump stops?
Cause in my mind that would mean crank the torsion bars some more.

Could you take a pic of current set-up?
Or how it sits now?

[hogbeast]

I have some Camil front shocks. they state the height must be 720mm from bottom of the rim to fender. so I will be adjusting the height to that. it is about 750 to 790 (I think) at this stage

[mygoggie]

I have some Camil front shocks. they state the height must be 720mm from bottom of the rim to fender. so I will be adjusting the height to that. it is about 750 to 790 (I think) at this stage

I checked mine and it is 760mm.

I have read a lot on the vibration issue and it seems that the front drive shaft is too short to accommodate the lift and sits at an angle of more than 3° from the transfer shaft and the diff's input shaft. I will measure tomorrow and drop my suspension until I get to the 3° angle. I do not have the money now to install a CV joint in the driveshaft.

[mygoggie]

I checked the angle this morning and as best I could measured it. It was about 5°. I therefore dropped the suspension to about 730mm measurement and it is now at 3°.

I see the transfer case's front drive bearing has a little bit of lateral play. Most likely long overdue for replacement. Will replace it and then see what is what from there.

[hogbeast]

Thank you. I will most probably start working this weekend.

[hogbeast]

Today I managed to loosen all the bolts of the trailing arms and remove the panhard bar and one trailing arm. It appears that the Bushes are not as worn as what I expected. I affirm my suspicions that the Bushes where replaced somewhere in the life of the vehicle. Thus far it was only the upper control arm Bushes that was shot. Now the fight to press out the Bushes

[mygoggie]

Today I managed to loosen all the bolts of the trailing arms and remove the panhard bar and one trailing arm. It appears that the Bushes are not as worn as what I expected. I affirm my suspicions that the Bushes where replaced somewhere in the life of the vehicle. Thus far it was only the upper control arm Bushes that was shot. Now the fight to press out the Bushes

Cut the ends of the rubber off with a hacksaw and then it comes out easily with a socket pressing just inside the housing. Use a bench vice, one side the socket, the other side a piece of pipe with ID a bit larger than the housing.

[mygoggie]

I have found the vibration issue and the solution is not that simple. You can read about it here.

[hogbeast]

i read you rebuilt your power steering box. I still have play on my steering thus i think i need to rebuild or replace the steering box.

it seems a very complicated job?
im thinking of getting a second hand one have it rebuild then swapping it out. do you know of anyone that can do it?

[mygoggie]

i read you rebuilt your power steering box. I still have play on my steering thus i think i need to rebuild or replace the steering box.

it seems a very complicated job?
im thinking of getting a second hand one have it rebuild then swapping it out. do you know of anyone that can do it?

The steering box is not the source of the play. The only problem in the hydraulic steering box is the failure of the hydraulic teflon seals. That is why I rebuild mine twice. The first time I managed to damage two of the seals on an opening in the side of the cylinder. These failed after a few days so I had to redo the whole massive job.

The issue with play is in the steering tie rod ends (inner and outer), the pitman arm and the steering idler (read $$$). I replaced all of these and wow what a difference!

[hogbeast]

OK I replaced all except the pitman arm that I did not get off.

[mygoggie]

OK I replaced all except the pitman arm that I did not get off.

And there lies your issue. Like I said, you need a massive puller, a heat gun and penetrating spray oil of sorts. The rust in the splines is keeping it together.

[mygoggie]

Just for my own and hopefully your reference here are some other threads regarding work I have done on the Pajero:

Replacing the reverse light switch

Double cardan joint for propshaft

[jelo]

I thought you fixed the Paj. Where is the update?

[mygoggie]

I thought you fixed the Paj. Where is the update?

Not fixed. Found the fault. Waiting on bearings to arrive from overseas. Now need to order some more things from overseas.

[mygoggie]

Update on the vibration issue which is discussed in great depth here.

Basically the 2H-4H switch on the Transfer Case failed. This means it does not activate the solenoids in the vacuum line, which in turn does not activate the free wheeling clutch in the front diff.

Therefore the front differential and in turn front propshaft is turned by the wheels whilst the back propshaft is turned by the engine. So the two meet in the transfer case and the difference in angular velocity makes a mess of vibration free driving.

The irony is that there is no warning light or any indication that this switch has failed ...

I will do a write up of this with photos when I find a bit of free time.

[mygoggie]

Thanks to the kindness of @Coenoes and @K2l2h2r1 I obtained a set of second hand switched as you can see here.

This is a life saver for me at this stage.

[mygoggie]

I have been battling to split the transfer case. I have determined that is a 24-130 transfercase. Does anyone have a service manual explaining how to free the rear cover housing from the two gearshift shafts?

There is a plunger pin keeping the shafts locked in the cover.




I have removed the spring and the ball removed itself. Still need to find it!

As you can see the shaft 30652 is blocking access to the plunger.

[mygoggie]

I managed to find a service manual online in Russia for this transfer case. I will post detail pictures but basically you need to remove the gear levers with plate assembly. Then knock the slotted spring pin out (stressful) from the change shifter shaft and the pull the shifter shaft out the back of the transfer case. In my case it did not want to pull out. Anyway long storey short. The shaft is out, the back cover is loose and it does not fit through any gap ....

So .... I will need to remove the transfer case or the gearbox and transfer case. Me thinks, do the whole lot and replace the clutch as well.

I know there is a clutch thread here somewhere on which is the best brand clutch for a Pajero. Please let me know if you have experience in replacing the heavy duty clutch and RB with a quality brand.

[MysteriousEngine]

I think 24-130 is just a drawing reference number.

Most likely you have the V5M31 tranmission as fitted to the 4M40 diesel.

To split the boxes the shifter on the back of the main geabox selector shaft must be removed. This is fixed to the shaft with a pin which must be punched out. Not easy but I believe it is possible by working from the top of the box after removing gear levers.



I have the workshop manual for this transmission if you would like me to post it here.

Regards