Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019





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  1. #1
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    Default Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Trip Report Gonarezhou 27 July - 4 Aug 2019

    Thanks to everybody that helped us with information and advice in planning this wonderful trip to Gonarezhou end of July beginning August 2019. My apologies for this Trip Report to Gonarezhou being way overdue. Many thanks to MikeN and MikevR for their regular updates on Gonarezhou and invaluable information and especially MikevR that helped me afterwards in identifying/clarifying some of the beautiful trees in the various campsites that we visited.

    This is not a full trip report, but rather more highlights, thoughts and impressions of our 8 days in Gonarezhou. Due to my interest in trees, I have also highlighted some of the beautiful trees that we came across in Gonarezhou - (my apologies for using common names both Afrikaans and English as well as some Botanical names). The trip was way to short and we promised ourselves next time to stay at least 10 days or more and to spend more time in the southern section as well.

    Gonarezhou has been on our bucket list for some time and in April 2018, after a lot of reading and research, I started communicating with the very friendly and helpful ladies; Lydia and Euliana at [email protected] to finalise dates and camping sites for our visit end of July 2019. Thanks to various trips reports on the 4x4 community forum, we were able to decide on the Hlaro- and Chitove campsite on the Runde river - 3 nights each for the middle part of our trip. We did not initially book Chipinda or Mabalauta as either first or last nights as we were not sure whether to use the Beitbridge-to-Chipinda or Pafuri-via-Sango-to-Mabalauta options, for either to enter or exit Gonarezhou. In the end the fuel situation in Zimbabwe or rather the lack of, persuaded us to use the Pafuri option to enter and exit the park. As a result, I made a reservation during June at Mabalauta for our first night of 28 July in Gonarezhou.

    On Saturday 27 July 2019 we; Johan and Christa - our long time travel friends in their Toyota Hilux and Echo Chobe, and Conrad and Anne-Marie (us) in our LR Discovery 4 and Invader Duo, departed from a cool wintery Pretoria to Punda Maria in Kruger National Park for our first night. We arrived at Punda Maria at about 15:30 and booked into our chalets. The weather was notably warmer at 26C compared to 18C when we left Pretoria. The weather also became progressively warmer as our trip progressed. We opted for chalets and not camping due to time constraints as we planned to be at the Pafuri border at opening time at 8:00 the next morning.

    Conrad and Johan filled the vehicles' tanks with diesel and added an extra 100 litres each in either jerrycans and/or auxiliary tanks, while Christa and I did some last-minute shopping at the Punda Maria shop. We also bought enough ice to fill each-and-every little corner in the freezers and coolers. Keeping beer cold is always as a big challenge as having enough fuel and fresh water on an overland trip.

    With our spirits high, not only due to our upcoming trip, but also due to the Springboks vs All Blacks 16-16 draw in the Rugby championships earlier the day, we enjoyed a leisurely braai of lamb tjops, salad and "pap-en-sous" before heading to bed by 21:00.

    We left Punda by 6:30 on Sunday 28 July. From Punda to Pafuri border it is at least an hour and a half's drive. Things went surprisingly smooth at the border and we cleared both sides within an hour. We drove a short distance before turning left towards the Limpopo, noticing a beautiful stand of fever trees to the left of us. We soon reached the almost dry Limpopo river, beautifully lined by the blue green of anaboom trees, typical of this area. It was just after 9am when we descended to the Limpopo riverbed with temperatures already starting to rise.

    Now, as was mentioned elsewhere on the forum "sometimes-laziness overrides common sense". Despite all the advice gleaned from "research" and also ignoring the advice of some more risk-averse members (the ladies in the group) it was decided to; "we will first have a look to see if it is necessary to deflate, before we deflate". We got thoroughly stuck within the first 30metres after entering the loose river sand. It was 11am, 2 hours later and very hot before we got going again. Needless to say - common sense prevailed for the rest of the trip - deflating tyres with the first sight of a river crossing.

    We continued the road close to the Zimbabwe border crossing the next river - the Mwenezi - being a breeze with the deflated tyres. We reached the Malvernia/Sango border by about 13:30. Although not too difficult to drive, the two and a half hours on 70km is tiring and sometimes very slow going on a boring road. The only interesting aspects of the road are the typical style of the old Portuguese farm houses now dilapidated, the derelict pump houses and water reservoirs , signs of old farm fields (now reclaimed by mopani) - all relics of what must have been a once vibrant agricultural community in a bygone era - more than 40 years ago. (More disheartening is the fact that there are hardly any visible new developments or improvements. The few rural villages on the road seem to be stuck in a time-period of a century ago and abject poverty.

    At Malvernia/Sango border it took a bit longer than an hour to clear both sides of the Mozambique/Zimbabwe border with minor hiccups. The Zimbabwe side very friendly and helpful, the Mozambique side not so friendly. A highlight for me at the border was my first sighting of a Panga-panga tree - with its huge seed pods.

    Shortly after the border we got to the Gonarezhou entrance gate where we were quickly cleared. We travelled the road next to the railway line - the road being in a good condition with a gravel surface. We continued for another 30km before turning left towards Mabalauta. We reached Mabalauta just before 16:00 and were allocated campsite 4 by the very friendly and efficient Mr Hardson. We also bought some very heavy mopani wood for the evening's fire and braai.

    We set up camp under lovely shady Sausage trees next to Mwenezi river for the first night. However, we promised to make more time for this part of the park in future. We saw a few elephants, kudu and nyala around the camp. Heavily grazed mopani trees and other vegetation around Mabalauta were evidence of many elephant in the area.

    That evening Christa spoiled us with slow roasted lamb necks over the coals and green bean mash. Delicious! We went to bed that night with the sounds of a scops owl close by and the roar of lions, not to distant. The ablution facilities at Mabalauta are very clean with hot water showers from solar panels. The next morning, we scanned the camp-area realising campsite 1 and 3 to have better river views, but both were already occupied the previous evening. We also met Simon Espley and friends while they were assessing Gonarezhou as reported later in wonderful article in the Africa Geographic GONAREZHOU LAND OF GIANTS see link https://magazine.africageographic.co...#klaseriesands

    We cleared camp, showered, bought some extra mopani wood to last for the rest of the trip and were on our way to our next campsite - Hlaro on the Runde river - just after 9am. We used the central road (as highlighted by MikevR in his March 2019 update) and travelled at leisure, taking in the different land-and-treescapes. The road has some straight sections, but it also meanders round some pans in the area.

    A significant feature of the central road is the ever-changing vegetation types that ranges from monotonous mopani all in autumn shades to dense stands of dark green Lebombo ironwood. Patches of miombo trees here and there made for a welcome change in the otherwise familiar - like the Kruger national park - type of vegetation. Although still end of July the light green flower buds on the Boscia albitrunca (Witgat) and creamy flower balls of the Albizzias (helmetica) showed that spring is imminent in this hot climate area.

    While traversing the central area we saw some elephant droppings and even a few buffalo droppings around the pans but did not see any other animals except a few steenbok. The vegetation also did not show the presence of any significant numbers of grazers or browsers. Closer to the Runde, as we started to decent from the highlands, the situation changes, the presence of grazers and browsers became more evident. The mopani and apple leaf were pruned into horizontal growth by elephant feeding habits. We continued zigzagging downhill when suddenly, the mopani bush cleared and we got our first sight of the iconic Chilojo cliffs in the distance - what a magnificent view!

    We reached Hlaro camp site by 3pm. Unlike our usual pattern of scanning the campsite and the trajectory of the sun, to make best use of the available shade, we just stood in awe looking at the majestic Chilojo cliffs. We quickly then set up camp, then taking our chairs closer to the bank of the Runde river to enjoy a sundowner and the golden light of the setting sun colouring the cliffs, changing from a light yellow, to amber and later to almost blue after sunset. Amazing!! Even when using a really wide-angle lens, no photo can really do justice to the beauty and grandeur of the Chilojo cliffs.

    Dinner was Portuguese chicken espatada, baby potato and a green salad. We went to bed that evening knowing we are far away from civilization. At Hlaro we mostly chilled in the camp enjoying the ever-changing colour of the cliffs from dawn to dusk. With impala, njala and kudu browsing nearby and the ever-present elephant in the river enough to keep us occupied.

    On the second morning we went for a short game drive, crossing the Fishans causeway and had a beer at one of the Chilojo picnic sites. On our way back we encountered a big herd of elephant with lots of babies on their way to the river. That afternoon Conrad, while sitting in his chair looking at the river and the rest of us napping, suddenly exclaimed and jump into our trailer as an elephant curiously strolled into the camp. (The trailer being the obvious choice compared to the car being closer to the elephant) The elephant stood still staring at us for a long minute or two, contemplating his next move, and us looking anxiously back. He then smelled the air with his trunk, shook his head and continued his way - causing some nervous laughter from us. Our unpleasant experience with the cheeky Xakanaka elephants only a few months ago in April, created a healthy respect for these big feet animals.

    At Hlaro we heard lion roars close to the camp every morning. We went searching for them the first morning and found one lion in the riverbed not far from Fishans camp. However, we realised that the roaring we heard was closer to our camp and must therefore have been from a different lion or lions. Our last evening, we had curried lamb chops (Conrad's favourite) and wors over the coals - with sweet potato mash and salad. Our last morning at Hlaro, had some excitement of his own. Conrad took his camera for a few last shots of the camp and surrounds. While walking around to get the best exposure he almost bumped into two lions close to the toilet. Not sure who got the biggest fright - both the lions and Conrad quickly retreated - in opposite directions of cause. We jumped into the vehicles to search for the lion and found them close by under a tree between the Hlaro and Directors camp sites - a female and young male probably a mating couple.

    We bid farewell to Hlaro on 31 July promising to be back in the not distant future. We took the road over the Chilojo cliffs and spend some time at both the lookout points taking photos before proceeding to our next camp - Chitove. Chitove is a lovely camp on the Runde with a large hippo pool. Shade is a bit scarce with only a Jackal berry tree in the campsite. It must have been a shady campsite in the past - evident by the remnants of a dead tree and another tree busy dying, both wild mango (Cordylia Africana thanks to MikevR that help to clarify the trees) . Nevertheless, the hippos grunting and blowing bubbles in the pool kept us entertained. Johan treated us the first evening at Chitove with ribeye-on-the-bone and marrowbones over the coals. Delectable!!

    From the Chitove campsite we explored both the south and north side of the Runde river visiting the Machaniwa and the Tembwahata pans as well as the confluence of the Save and Runde rivers from both the northern and the southern side. Both the pans are an absolute paradise, a pristine area and a must see. We saw large herds of buffalo and impala, also groups of +/- 30 individuals of eland, zebra, and wildebeest. Smaller groups of waterbucks, nyala and kudu were often sighted on the floodplains of the two rivers. I also saw the biggest herd of impala in my life - numbering a few hundred. These sightings waylay the general perception that the sighting of animals in Gonarezhou is a scarcity? Maybe true for the central area but around the rivers and on the floodplains, animals are in abundance. However, we experienced the animals to be more skittish than in Moremi or the Kruger, making photo opportunities more difficult.

    Around the confluence we searched for the Gayiseni campsite. We found a campsite marked as such but were not sure whether it is the old or the new one. Although lots of shade, it was a bit overgrown without signs that it was occupied recently. It does not have a view of the river. The smallish pool nearby was dry on 3 August.

    The trees on the floodplains are also worth mentioning. The abundance of apple leaf, the various miombo trees, nyala trees with their twisted trunks, sausage and jackal berry trees all create an atmosphere very similar to Mana pools' anaboom forests. We noted that there is a scarcity of thorn trees - both the Vachelia and Senegalensis species (previously classified as Acacias) in Gonarezhou. We did see a few knob thorns and brakdoring on the floodplains and anatrees and I guess sweet thorns in Mabalautha campsite. That maybe also explains the scarcity of giraffe? We did not see any girapffe in Gonarezhou. Their preference for knob thorn is a well-known fact.

    Although Gonarezhou means place of elephants in Zimbabwe's Shona language it could also have been called "place of baobabs". Gonarezhou has the biggest concentration of baobabs I have ever seen in all our excursions in Southern Africa. The large number of these majestic trees with their almost human like postures, their bare winter branches like raised arms changing colour with the time of day, scattered all over the veld and marching like giant soldiers up the dryer ridges, create an atmosphere of timelessness and give a sense of what the earth looked like before mankind.

    An early morning ritual that we developed was to have our first coffee sitting on the bank of the Runde river with binoculars scanning the bush on the other side of the river, upstream and downstream enjoying the early morning sun. The second morning at Chitove we were just sitting down when Christa called out that she is seeing wild dogs in the riverbed. Yes, true - 6 wild dogs! In the riverbed drinking water - close to the Chitove causeway. Wonderful! However, by the time we reached the causeway by road they were already gone. At Chitove we also heard lion every night or morning and on the last morning close to the camp - direction from the causeway. However, no sight of them. We did see two separate impala kills with lots of vultures the previous 2 days - evident that carnivores are active in the area.
    On 4th August, we reluctantly packed up and left camp by 10am to travel to Chipinda pools for our last night in Gonarezhou. We crossed the shallow river at the Chitove causeway without a problem. The first half of the road to Chipinda pools was slow going with lots of small dry river crossings over rocky terrain. After the Chilojo cliffs campsite the going improved, once on the gravel road. We reached Chipinda by 3pm where we were greeted by the very friendly and helpful lady Euliana at the entrance gate. We were allocated campsite 7. This campsite is quite big with large shady trees and a thatched gazebo with a build-in table overlooking the hippo-pools in the Runde river. At Chipinda pools the ablutions again were very clean with hot running water in the showers.

    Johan and Christa went for a game drive to the Massasanya dam while we opted to stay in the camp enjoying the river view. By this time the weather turned very hot with a temperature of close to 35C. Christa got a surprize sighting on their game drive of a leopard close to the dam. For our last evening in Gonarezhou we had sirloin steaks with a Prego sauce, accompanied by a salsa of red onion, tomato and avo. On the last morning, before clearing camp, I suddenly noticed impala running across the road and to my amazement I saw a brown hyena disappearing over the ridge. By 8:30 we were on our way making our way back towards Fishans for the long trip back via the Sango border to Dumela safari close to the Pafuri border. To our amazement we encountered a large herd of buffalo close to the Centre- and Gorwana pans on the central road and almost 30km from the Mwenezi river.

    The border crossing at Sango went smooth both sides and we were done within an hour. We reached Dumela by 4pm. The next morning - Tuesday 4 August we crossed the Pafuri border without hiccups and bid farewell to Johan and Christa as they were heading home to Pretoria while we still had a view days in the Kruger. We were back home in Pretoria on Friday 9 August.

    List of large trees we identified; (my apologies for using common names both Afrikaans and English as well as some Botanical names) include; Paddaboom, Sambokpeul, Anaboom, Knoppiesdoring, Appelblaar, Worsboom, Nyala, Baobab, Tamboti, Natal mahogany, Mopani, Maroela, Miombo-various, Rooibos, Kierieklapper, Hardekool, Terminalia, Vaalboom, Lanea, Boscia, Pendoring, Strychnos, Galpinia transvaalica, Guibortea conjucta, Balanites, Koorsboom, Tortilis, Wit sering, Ochna, Kanniedood, Wild mango, Croton, Ficus-various and Kiaat-Podocarpus angolensis.

    Our next trip to Gonarezhou is already booked for June 2020 (booked in August 2019), 3 nights at Hlaro and 5 nights at the new exclusive camp at Machaniwa pan. Whether to enter in the north or south will again depend on the fuel situation and the level of the Limpopo river. However, we would like to add 2 days at Mabalauta and maybe one night in one of the camps on the central road making this coming trip 11 days in Gonarezhou.

    My apologies for the quality of some of the photos, taken with mobile phone or screen crabs from videos. (Also struggling to get photo angle "upright" when posting - please advise)
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    anne-marie wiehahn


  2. #2
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Thank you, lovely report of a fantastic area.

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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    A great review of Gonarezhou. You cannot do it justice with less than 8 days minimum. Thanks for the report
    [SIGPIC]MikevR Be determined to live the unlived life within you.

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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Mouse, what a wonderful trip report! Thank you so much!

    Having just booked camps for our visit in August 2020, it was so reassuring to read your praise of Gonarezhou. I can hardly wait. And by the way, reading about your culinary delights made me literally drool. I ounly wish our bush cousine could be on such a high level.
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Thank you Mousie for a wonderful TR. High on my wish list for a future travel project.

    AP

    P.S. By the way, is Espetada and not espatada. Hope it was tasty!
    Last edited by apfac; 2020/02/19 at 12:58 AM. Reason: mispelling

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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Thanks Mousie! Very nice trip.
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Quote Originally Posted by apfac View Post
    Thank you Mousie for a wonderful TR. High on my wish list for a future travel project.

    AP

    P.S. By the way, is Espetada and not espatada. Hope it was tasty!
    Tx apfac, make a plan to visit Gonarezhou ASAP - sure a wonderful area - the best in my experience - over the last 17 years of travel in neighbouring countries. Pristine, remote, well managed and still an undiscovered gem - very few people.
    The espetada was very good - we love Portuguese food!! Good food is what makes a wonderful trip even more exceptional. Takes some planning, however we have decided long time ago our travels are not survival trips and we plan as such.
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    thanks for the report, brings back pleasant memories of our trip some years ago.
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Hi all

    Does anyone have a good map of the park that they can post. Id love to see the above route on a map.

    Is Camping and park fees similar what one would pay in Botswana.

    Regards Gavin
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    As Les said above:

    A wonderful report indeed.

    WE (SWAMBO and I) are still hoping (desperately) to return there one more time before parking the old Suuz and growing vegetables in it or something ...

    I believe that MikeVR MAY be thinking of a trip sometime in the next year or two.
    If at all physically and financially able to be there we would do it.

    It is so wonderful to read others trip reports about places that you have been to yourself even if a few years back.
    You know the places (as they were then) and it is so great to get updates.
    This IS one of the (almost) last items on our personal bucket list.
    As I have said many times before - Never cross off the last one on that list !!!!
    Answering the call of the wild is just so much beter than answering the telephone.
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Quote Originally Posted by Wedwo View Post
    Hi all

    Does anyone have a good map of the park that they can post. Id love to see the above route on a map.

    Is Camping and park fees similar what one would pay in Botswana.

    Regards Gavin
    We did a trip not too different from this a few years back.
    If you wish refer to my (now somewhat dated) report on that trip.

    https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...gzMmIzNjVjYmE4

    Click or Control click to open.
    If you have any problem I can email a PDF version.
    Just PM me.

    PS: If the map is not in there somewhere then I can scan and send you by email.
    Last edited by Peter1949; 2020/02/27 at 04:10 PM.
    Answering the call of the wild is just so much beter than answering the telephone.
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    This is not the latest map but should help..
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Forgot to mention that our group was one of the first few to be allowed to do the central route through the park from South to North.
    In the past one had to leave the Southern part into Zim proper and then back into the Northern section.
    In fact our group provided Tracks 4 Africa with our recorded route so that they could update their software to take this into account or update their info. on that region.
    Answering the call of the wild is just so much beter than answering the telephone.
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Many thanks Pieter and Malcolm for the maps.

    Mousie

    If you did it again would you do the same trip again just adding one or two more days in each camp. Or are there places that you missed that you would want to do.

    Regards
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Quote Originally Posted by Wedwo View Post
    Many thanks Pieter and Malcolm for the maps.

    Mousie

    If you did it again would you do the same trip again just adding one or two more days in each camp. Or are there places that you missed that you would want to do.

    Regards
    Gavin
    Hi Wedwo,

    To answer you yes and yes - stay longer!

    We have already booked our next trip leaving on 6th June 2020. A total of 11 days in Gonarezhou - I think that answers your question?

    We would have loved to spend more time in the south and maybe spend a night or two on the central road - Gorwe pan. However with our trip in early June, the recent very good rains and expectation of more rain in the Limpopo catchment area we decided to rather brave Beitbridge and make use of the new causeway over the Runde river just east of Chivilila falls, rather than to brave the maybe fuller Limpopo or drive further south-east to Mapai - taking the ferry - fuel constraints.

    Shade is very important for us in choosing a camp site. Even in winter, day temperatures could be close to 30C or above and because we have off-road trailers we prefer to stay more than 1 or 2 days at a camp site, we always opt for more shady camp sites.

    Our planned itinerary is:
    6 June: Lion&Elephant motel in Zim
    7-8 June: Chipinda Pools
    9-11 June: Hlaro - 3 nights
    12-16 June: Machaniwa pan (new campsite) 5 nights
    17 June: Chipinda pools
    18 June: Tshipise - Musina


    Our aim this time round is to stay as long as possible at Machaniwa - the new camp site converted from a picnic site. Lots of shade and on the pan. Plan to chill in the camp and let the animals visit us.

    Although the Chilojo campsites are fantastic with shade and with direct views of the cliffs, with our trip being early June and not sure what the water-level in the Runde could be, we decided to make use of the new causeway and then stay on that side of the Runde - making Hlaro, Directors or Fishans a logical choice as a base to travel in that area. Our choice is again Hlaro - good shade and the last camp site on the road, private and closest to the cliffs.

    Chitove is also very private and nice but shade a problem if more than 1 vehicle. Most of the other sites close to Chitove are also very good - although we could not have a close enough look due to being occupied.
    Should the water level not be a problem in early June we will definately cross the Runde on our daily excursions. Also if you plan to travel later - end Jul, Aug then the water level in both the Limpopo or Runde should not be a problem.

    Hlaro and Machaniwa are exclusive camp sites with only a long-drop toilet, however we are totally self-sufficient and prefer the solitude and wilderness feeling of these camps. We decided on Chipinda pools to start and end our trip due to available water-on-tap, firewood and hot running water in the showers. A hot shower is always welcome at the end of a bush-trip.

    Regards
    anne-marie w
    anne-marie wiehahn

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  27. #16
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Many Thanks Anne-Marie

    Definitely going to book for 2021

    Regards Gavin
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  28. #17
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Thanks for your trip report Mousie. Most usefull for us to plan our trip which starts on 07 May 2020 in the South. We are two vehicles one a Sprinter camper and the other a Toyota Hilux towing a Bush Lapa Boskriek. We were looking at booking at Mabalauta but would like to know if Rossi pools or Nyavasikana would be a better option? How many days should we spend in the south? Travelling to the North we will sleep over at Malugwe Platform and then continue to Chiloyo 1 (2 days). From there we will go to the confluence area. Unfortunately Chitove is booked so we are now looking at the other campsite. I understand Pokwe is small and we will not get the two vehicles in. So Mutamagwenzi is an option. What would your recommendations be, will be staying for 2-3 days? On our way out we will most probably stay over at Hlaro and then Chipinda Pools. From there we will be going North to Malawi. Your comments will be appreciated, this is our first visit to Gonarezhou.
    Thanks.
    Ben

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  29. #18
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Hi Whisky
    Quote Originally Posted by Whisky View Post
    Thanks for your trip report Mousie. Most usefull for us to plan our trip which starts on 07 May 2020 in the South. We are two vehicles one a Sprinter camper and the other a Toyota Hilux towing a Bush Lapa Boskriek. We were looking at booking at Mabalauta but would like to know if Rossi pools or Nyavasikana would be a better option? How many days should we spend in the south? Travelling to the North we will sleep over at Malugwe Platform and then continue to Chiloyo 1 (2 days). From there we will go to the confluence area. Unfortunately Chitove is booked so we are now looking at the other campsite. I understand Pokwe is small and we will not get the two vehicles in. So Mutamagwenzi is an option. What would your recommendations be, will be staying for 2-3 days? On our way out we will most probably stay over at Hlaro and then Chipinda Pools. From there we will be going North to Malawi. Your comments will be appreciated, this is our first visit to Gonarezhou.
    Thanks.
    We have only been to Mabalauta in the south but would have loved to spend some more time in the south, exploring the otger camps as well. From what I have read Rossi pools are lovely. Because we also wanted to spend time in the north, we had to make a choice. Depending on your time available - I would spend 3 days in the south and 5 days in the north, or in that order. Our 1st time we spend 8 days in Gonarezhou and realised it was too short - therefore our upcoming trip will be 11 nights in the park.

    Regards
    anne-marie w
    anne-marie wiehahn

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  31. #19
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Hi, we will be going to Gonarezhou via Pafuri on the 1st May and would like to know whether one can get any sort of provisions in Chicualacuala. Alcohol, meat etc....
    Thanks

  32. #20
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    Default Re: Gonarezhou: Trip report Jul/Aug 2019

    Quote Originally Posted by GrumpyRob View Post
    Hi, we will be going to Gonarezhou via Pafuri on the 1st May and would like to know whether one can get any sort of provisions in Chicualacuala. Alcohol, meat etc....
    Thanks
    Not sure about meat in Chicualcuala but we bought 2Ms there and there was a fuel station outside of town on the Mapai road. We took the powerline route after Joe's shop where you could also buy beers, my guess is that you might be forced to cross the limpopo at Mapai at that time of the year which gives you more fuel and beer options but I don't think you will get meat.

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