1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics





Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 22
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bethlehem
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 3365

    Default 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    These Threads refer.

    https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...st-LOVE-my-Job

    https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...How?highlight=

    https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...t=#post4309398

    Apologies for yet another Thread...….but this one is to be used to ask specific questions/tips/advise on the above, I'm not too familiar with these beasts, and more specifically don't really know where to source parts, etc etc.

    So, any 1st hand help will be greatly appreciated, I'm prepping this for a very close friend, who only needs the car by around April.

    In the mean time I'll be using the 88 every now and then as we progress with work etc etc, and share my passion/thoughts on it, if I may.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by Petri Oosthuizen; 2020/01/22 at 02:08 PM.
    Of COURSE I have a Bad Habit. I take Tea at Three (Mick Jagger)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bethlehem
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 3365

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    K here I come with the Questions...………

    1) Guys..................The yellow knob lever is to engage 4x4 - BUT this doesn't have locking hubs like my other Series 3 has. Does this mean that the blue one is permanet 4x4, and the yellow knob is a sort of CDL??

    2) The left front and right rear hubs leaks oil - not major, but they leak.
    2,1) What to check here, sommer all 4 hubs/axles?
    2,2) Where to get seals/rubbers/etc etc to fix?? My one pal talks about "Engineparts" - anyone knows the Supplier?

    3) The transfer box has a leak(ie) - same as above, what to check, and where to get replacement parts please?

    5) I'm going to test its offroad workings etc etc this weekend (se (1) above)). Anything specific one should test/look out for here please??

    6) Funny "zzzzzt" noise (sometimes) on front, sounds like front prop? (see post 4)

    7) Look / test sideshaft play

    8) Look/test Props and UJ's, etc etc

    9) Look/test suspension - shocks, leafs, rubbers, etc etc

    10) Look / test steering play

    11) Fit "frames" on doors for canvas top and door frames

    12) Straighten/clean up door frames to fit snugly in (11) above

    THANKS - so far

    Some cosmetic work to also do here, but nothing major, and I'd be able to sort that in due time - will update progress anyway if needed.
    Last edited by Petri Oosthuizen; 2020/01/23 at 11:40 AM.
    Of COURSE I have a Bad Habit. I take Tea at Three (Mick Jagger)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Rustenburg
    Age
    32
    Posts
    1,176
    Thanked: 907

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by Petri Oosthuizen View Post
    K here I come with the Questions...………

    1) Guys..................The yellow knob lever is to engage 4x4 - BUT this doesn't have locking hubs like my other Series 3 has. Does this mean that the blue one is permanet 4x4, and the yellow knob is a sort of CDL?

    it is not meant to have free wheel hubs. Aftermarket freewheel hubs were often fitted to “save fuel”. The yellow knob engages 4wd while in high range. When you engage low range, using the red lever, the yellow know will jump back up. This is normal. Essentially, normal driving is 2H. Engage yellow knob for 4H. In low range it’s always in 4wd. when in 2H, the hubs still drive the diff and front prop, but it is disengaged from the transfer case. There is no Centre diff.


    2) The left front and right rear hubs leaks oil - not major, but they leak.
    2,1) What to check here, sommer all 4 hubs/axles?
    2,2) Where to get seals/rubbers/etc etc to fix?? My one pal talks about "Engineparts" - anyone knows the Supplie

    common issue on these. They use felt and paper gaskets, and don’t last very long. Just replace all the drove flange gaskets (paper), and replace the felt insert that goes behind the circling securing the side shafts. best place to order all parts from is Dover Parts in Shelby (JHB). I doubt you will get better pricing anywhere else, and they courier country wide for a very reasonable fee.


    3) The transfer box has a leak(ie) - same as above, what to check, and where to get replacement parts please

    as above. Get parts from Dover. Most probably output housing seals that are shot.


    5) I'm going to test its offroad workings etc etc this weekend (se (1) above)). Anything specific one should test/look out for here please

    chekc the front prop shaft for any Signs of play, and make sure it’s greased. Especially if they aren’t used in 4x4 a lot, the front prop gets neglected, and have seen them fail very soon after some serious off roading. make sure the breather pipes are all in place (diffs, gearbox and TC)

    listen and look out for play in the drive members and side shafts. If they have excessive play, replace ASAP, or you will strip them, or snap a side shaft soon. Remember these things sideshafts are a major weakspot, but I believe excessive play on the drive members is responsible for a lot of the side shaft failures.

    THANKS - so far

    Some cosmetic work to also do here, but nothing major, and I'd be able to sort that in due time - will update progress anyway if needed.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bethlehem
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 3365

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    BAIE dankie Piet!!!!!!!!!!!

    I'm adding potential "look fors" as recommended in OP.

    There was also another issue that the Seller told me - the front diff has a funny "zzzzzzttt" noise on pullaway. NOT always, and he says it didn't get any worse after 3/4 years use.

    I also heard it, but the past 2 days its gone.

    But ja, adding this also to my To Do List, and will anyway sommer net have the props, UJ's etc etc checked.
    Last edited by Petri Oosthuizen; 2020/01/22 at 04:24 PM.
    Of COURSE I have a Bad Habit. I take Tea at Three (Mick Jagger)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cape Town
    Age
    56
    Posts
    733
    Thanked: 315

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    I'm not going to give advice, I'm too jealous! Just kidding! I know too little
    Last edited by DJR; 2020/01/22 at 04:54 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bethlehem
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 3365

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    Just to confirm...…….. In low range it’s always in 4wd.

    Is the yellow knob up ("out") or down ("in") when in Low??

    If you press the yellow down in 4H, that's 4H - I got that.

    But the yellow knob jumps "up" when shifting the Red from High to Low...…..does it (the yellow) stay "up" in Low, always??

    Then - is it possible to engage 4H on the fly with this transfer (like in other t/cases with hubs locked)??

    BAIE dankie!!
    Of COURSE I have a Bad Habit. I take Tea at Three (Mick Jagger)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Uitenhage
    Age
    41
    Posts
    1,840
    Thanked: 375

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by Petri Oosthuizen View Post
    Just to confirm...…….. In low range it’s always in 4wd.

    Is the yellow knob up ("out") or down ("in") when in Low??

    If you press the yellow down in 4H, that's 4H - I got that.

    But the yellow knob jumps "up" when shifting the Red from High to Low...…..does it (the yellow) stay "up" in Low, always??
    You understand it correctly. The yellow knob is up when in low and in low it's always in 4wd.

    Quote Originally Posted by Petri Oosthuizen View Post
    Then - is it possible to engage 4H on the fly with this transfer (like in other t/cases with hubs locked)??

    BAIE dankie!!
    I speak under correction, but IIRC it is possible. Somebody will have to confirm though.
    2004 Land Rover Discovery 2 Td5 ES

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bethlehem
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 3365

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    Thanks Fontuin

    Will give it a go this weekend.

    My lysie word al hoe langer in OP...……!!
    Of COURSE I have a Bad Habit. I take Tea at Three (Mick Jagger)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Centurion + Others
    Age
    61
    Posts
    2,800
    Thanked: 199

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    is that the one Regard was selling - looks like the pix he sent me....

    did you pay his price
    Merit before Race - anything else IS Racism.
    Stay Calm, engage low-ratio, keep buggering on - a Landy Man
    Longevity isn't worth dying for,

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bethlehem
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 3365

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    Deleted - Non Relevant to Thread
    Last edited by Petri Oosthuizen; 2020/01/23 at 03:59 PM.
    Of COURSE I have a Bad Habit. I take Tea at Three (Mick Jagger)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bethlehem
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 3365

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    If you Landy Gang can maybe assist me here please.

    I've got an old but good mecchie in town, I trust him to fix up all known issues here, as pointed out by my very honestSeller, Regard:

    1) Left front and right rear oil leaks at the Hubs. Left front is actually not that bad, but still there.
    1,1) What are these Parts called please, Hub Seals??
    1,2) Any other "relevant" issues to look out for here, while we're busy??

    2) There's a leak around the tranny.
    2.1) Transfer Seal??
    2,2) Its apparently near the rear inputshaft, where the hand brake cable " goes in "??
    2,3) As in 1,1, what are these Parts called, and what Parts to order there?

    3) Sump is sweaty...…….Sump Gasket??

    THANKS, I'd like to get started on this, still also have to clean up the paintwork here and there, MUCH APPRECIATED!!
    Of COURSE I have a Bad Habit. I take Tea at Three (Mick Jagger)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Fraserburg
    Age
    60
    Posts
    670
    Thanked: 589

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    2H to 4H can be engaged on the fly but don't try it above 40 km/h although I have and nothing happened.

    The transmission backlash on these vehicles can be significant. Up to 90 degrees on the rear prop shaft. Same with the steering up to 1/8 of a turn. Remember that the prop shaft U joints, wheel hubs and steering have grease nipples. Find all of them. The centre of the rear propshaft has a rubber boot over the extension joint (As the rear suspension goes up and down, the length of the rear propshaft varies). Ensure this is greased too and the rubber intact. If you take it apart ensure you mark it as assembly off the original may cause an unbalanced prop shaft.

    Re the centre diff, when in 4H or 4L the transfer box acts as a locked centre diff. In 2H it acts as an open centre diff. Do not use 4H or 4L for long on tar. You will eat tyres.
    Last edited by Olyfboer; 2020/01/27 at 06:16 PM. Reason: Spelling
    2001 Isuzu Frontier 4X4 DT280 LX 2.8 Turbo Diesel (Tourer)
    2011 JMC 4X4 Double Cab 2.8 Turbo Diesel (Work Bakkie)
    1973 Land Rover Series 2A 109" Ford V6 Kanniedood, Salisbury diff, galvanised chassis etc. (Hobby and Work vehicle)

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Fraserburg
    Age
    60
    Posts
    670
    Thanked: 589

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    While you work on it and remove any floor or body panels, replace the imperial bolts with metric stainless steel bolts and nuts. Makes things much easier. If you're going to replace brake and indicator light lenses with Defender lenses, you will have to replace the entire unit and drill new holes. And remember that to get to the clutch you need to remove the gearbox from the cab via the front doors after removing the seats. It doesn't drop out the bottom. And the bell housing is waterproof to keep the clutch dry. The seal is polished metal so don't ding the bell housing or it's mating surface. Oil it lightly to ensure a seal when replacing.
    2001 Isuzu Frontier 4X4 DT280 LX 2.8 Turbo Diesel (Tourer)
    2011 JMC 4X4 Double Cab 2.8 Turbo Diesel (Work Bakkie)
    1973 Land Rover Series 2A 109" Ford V6 Kanniedood, Salisbury diff, galvanised chassis etc. (Hobby and Work vehicle)

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bethlehem
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 3365

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    Sal die karretjie sommer vroeg na Oom Gys toe vat dat hy beginne kyk wats wat, en dan sal ek begin soek vir parte.

    Nie baie fout nie, maar net 'n seeltjie hier en daar.

    BAIE dankie aan almal vir julle advies.
    Of COURSE I have a Bad Habit. I take Tea at Three (Mick Jagger)

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bethlehem
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 3365

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    K Guys, I just went to fetch the 88 at Oom Gys.

    " Jis dis 'n oulike karretjie die, ek hoor die mense betaal al 50/60 Duisend Rand vir so mooie".

    "Ek het sommer die Parts List aan die sleutel vasgesit, vra net vir hulle dis vir 'n Series 3 Gary"

    OK Oom Gys.

    Anyway.

    His list …… please see if this sounds correct, and who is the best to get from, Leimers?? Engine Parts??

    THANKS.

    His List:

    1) Oil Seal on Transfer Case, "daar waar hy binne in die handbriek se drom ingaan"

    2) 4 x Side shaft Hub seals...…..he also sez sommer order all 4. Apparantly theres a gasket or something also there that he will make himself....??

    3) Sump Gasket

    BAIE BAIE DANKIE......appreciated!!
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Of COURSE I have a Bad Habit. I take Tea at Three (Mick Jagger)

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bethlehem
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 3365

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    Sorry for being such a gatvlieg, but any comments on above parts welcomed. Anything else to look out for?? I need to order ASAP, want to get this straightened out

    Onthou ek moet nog naweke gaan kyk of alles reg is...………..
    Of COURSE I have a Bad Habit. I take Tea at Three (Mick Jagger)

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Langebaanweg
    Age
    42
    Posts
    1,379
    Thanked: 805

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by Olyfboer View Post
    While you work on it and remove any floor or body panels, replace the imperial bolts with metric stainless steel bolts and nuts. Makes things much easier. If you're going to replace brake and indicator light lenses with Defender lenses, you will have to replace the entire unit and drill new holes. And remember that to get to the clutch you need to remove the gearbox from the cab via the front doors after removing the seats. It doesn't drop out the bottom. And the bell housing is waterproof to keep the clutch dry. The seal is polished metal so don't ding the bell housing or it's mating surface. Oil it lightly to ensure a seal when replacing.
    Stainless steel and aluminium don't mix. If you really want to use stainless steel with aluminium you have to use a nonconductive paste.

    Galvanized bolts work better with aluminium.
    '07 Land Rover Defender 110 TDI 300 Kalahari (Meisiekind˛)

    84' Land Rover Defender 110 V8 4-speed Hardtop (Meisiekind) Sold after 12 years of fun and hard work




    The only thing needed for evil to triumph is for a good man to do nothing.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bethlehem
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 3365

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by Olyfboer View Post
    While you work on it and remove any floor or body panels, replace the imperial bolts with metric stainless steel bolts and nuts. Makes things much easier. If you're going to replace brake and indicator light lenses with Defender lenses, you will have to replace the entire unit and drill new holes. And remember that to get to the clutch you need to remove the gearbox from the cab via the front doors after removing the seats. It doesn't drop out the bottom. And the bell housing is waterproof to keep the clutch dry. The seal is polished metal so don't ding the bell housing or it's mating surface. Oil it lightly to ensure a seal when replacing.
    Thanks, but not necessary to do all that work, ONLY the issues as above and as (correctly and honestly) described by Regard.

    Car goes REALLY nice, there aren't even leaks on my garage floor, the "leaks" are more sweatiness - I just feel I should sort it for my Buyer Pal, he trusts me with that and don't have the time and know - how to sort out issues.
    Of COURSE I have a Bad Habit. I take Tea at Three (Mick Jagger)

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Fraserburg
    Age
    60
    Posts
    670
    Thanked: 589

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by jfh View Post
    Stainless steel and aluminium don't mix. If you really want to use stainless steel with aluminium you have to use a nonconductive paste.

    Galvanized bolts work better with aluminium.
    Thanks JFH. What you say is true and I am well aware of galvanic corrosion. I worked for many years in the offshore industry with submersibles using marine grade aluminium and 316 stainless bolts. We used magnesium anodes to prevent galvanic corrosion. Those anodes do not work in air though but you're at Langebaanweg near the ocean where it will start to corrode slowly. Petri is in Bethlehem that has no salt in the air.

    I replaced my Landy bolts in Fish Hoek 20 years ago and moved to the Karoo ten years ago. There is no sign of galvanic corrosion.
    2001 Isuzu Frontier 4X4 DT280 LX 2.8 Turbo Diesel (Tourer)
    2011 JMC 4X4 Double Cab 2.8 Turbo Diesel (Work Bakkie)
    1973 Land Rover Series 2A 109" Ford V6 Kanniedood, Salisbury diff, galvanised chassis etc. (Hobby and Work vehicle)

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bethlehem
    Age
    53
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 3365

    Default Re: 1980 Series 3 88'.....Testing/Fixing/Testing/Prepping/Driving etc etc - with Pics

    Searched around for parts needed, and got this Guy's number

    He's in Bloem, sounds like he REALLY knows his stuff, he knows all the Parts Numbers from the top of his head.

    Jaco, his Business'name is "LRP", something like that.

    His direct number 0835616026

    Just thought I should share it
    Of COURSE I have a Bad Habit. I take Tea at Three (Mick Jagger)

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •