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  1. #161
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay_B View Post
    I'm very glad to see that proper oil pressure gauge sensor!! I once built a 4.6 for my own D2. One day the oil pressure light started coming on at idle. Went off as soon as I started driving. Eventually I investigated. Found NOTHING wrong - when the oil was cold - even at idle - but, as the oil warmed up, oil pressure started dropping lower and lower until my gauge could no longer give a proper reading.

    It turned out that the cam bearing shell at the very rear of the cam had been pushed out of the block as was dangling on the cam.

    If my car had an oil pressure gauge, I'm sure I would have spotted trouble the moment that bearing came out.
    Best regards
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  2. #162
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    She breathes at last.
    Fired on second attempt and oil pressure came up within 30seconds or so and the tappets settled down nice and quite too.

    Ran in the CAM for about 20mins and took her for a short gentle drive (people look at you funny driving down the road with no bonnet on)

    Have a few leaking niggles to address and also my ACE dash light is on but otherwise it seems to be okay.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #163
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by LRwit View Post
    I'm very glad to see that proper oil pressure gauge sensor!! I once built a 4.6 for my own D2. One day the oil pressure light started coming on at idle. Went off as soon as I started driving. Eventually I investigated. Found NOTHING wrong - when the oil was cold - even at idle - but, as the oil warmed up, oil pressure started dropping lower and lower until my gauge could no longer give a proper reading.

    It turned out that the cam bearing shell at the very rear of the cam had been pushed out of the block as was dangling on the cam.

    If my car had an oil pressure gauge, I'm sure I would have spotted trouble the moment that bearing came out.
    Agree, its a critical upgrade on these motors.
    It provides a lot of interesting insight aswell...

    Ive watched how pressure slowly drops after a 4-5hr stretch of consistent driving up through central kalahari on our way to Moremi in 40c outside temperatures. Oil was like water on the dipstick, let her sit for 30mins or so while we had some lunch and got going again with pressure back up to normal.

  4. #164
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    I have followed your build keenly, what a professional job. Congratulations and I wish you many good kms.

  5. #165
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    How's the build been treating you Jay B?
    2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE AT.
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    ----------------

  6. #166
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by mariusrautenbach View Post
    How's the build been treating you Jay B?
    Unfortunately this happened the weekend i started it up so moving around was rather painful... coupled together with concussion i have been pretty immobile lately.

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    and then i have been away on business and personal leave the last 2 weeks so still need to get to replacing the Power Steering pump that is making a nice mess of all my cleaning.

    I also have one of the branches on the exhaust header touching an engine mount which is making a horrible rattle that i need to get sorted. Otherwise she drives oh so smooth and really pulls nicely.

    Still early days though, will send oil away for analysis when i change it at 1000km.

  7. #167
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    I have installed a VDO temp unit though to go with my oil pressure gauge, still need to make a plan for a nice center console.
    Also installed a voltage monitor.

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  8. #168
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay_B View Post
    Unfortunately this happened the weekend i started it up so moving around was rather painful... coupled together with concussion i have been pretty immobile lately.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Happy healing, mate.
    It's not for nothing some call it the "martelpyp"...
    I looked quite a bit worse after too much motorcycle and too little experience, so I know your pain, except for the concussion bit.
    Cheers,
    John Kilfoil

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  9. #169
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Been a long while since updating here, havent been able to drive at all since the lockdown and away on business 2 weeks prior to that.
    I managed to get a new power steering pump last minute before lock down started and got it installed.

    Fired her up yesterday and so nice not to have the dead cat screaming in my engine bay so i can enjoy the sounds of the V8 grumble.

    Over and above that i am trying to locate a rattle on my exhaust somewhere, i have found one of the branches is resting against an engine mount but cant see how to fix it without taking it in to be re-routed.

    Secondly when i put the sump on i grabbed the container with the bolts from the original P38 sump which are shorter than the sump bolts for the D2. Only realized this once i started torquing them up, so i quickly tried changing them but it seems like the bead of gasket sealer had already started setting as i have a oil seeping from a few of the bolts themselves and around some of the edges of the sump gasket. I will drop the sump and redo the gasket when i do the 1000km oil change.

    other than that she really runs and idles nice and smooth.

    Last edited by Jay_B; 2020/04/17 at 08:14 AM.

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  11. #170
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay_B View Post
    Only realized this once i started torquing them up, so i quickly tried changing them but it seems like the bead of gasket sealer had already started setting as i have a oil seeping from a few of the bolts themselves and around some of the edges of the sump gasket. I will drop the sump and redo the gasket when i do the 1000km oil change.
    Jarryd, the tapped holes in the block are not blind, so the oil is leaking through the treads of the bolts. Before you drop the sump, take each bolt out, clean the threads from oil, apply some good quality RTV to the thread and re-fit. Did you use the proper rubber sump gasket or only gasket sealer?
    2006 VW Touareg 4.2 V8 Auto
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  12. #171
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by TwinDisco View Post
    Jarryd, the tapped holes in the block are not blind, so the oil is leaking through the treads of the bolts. Before you drop the sump, take each bolt out, clean the threads from oil, apply some good quality RTV to the thread and re-fit. Did you use the proper rubber sump gasket or only gasket sealer?
    Hi Pieter, thanks for the advice - i have thought of doing that with each of the bolts.
    Will give it a go and report back.

    I did use the rubber gasket with a small bead of RTV as well.

  13. #172
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    I have rebuilt so many of these motors I can do them with my eyes shut, even come up with a awesome fix for stripped threads in the block but thats my trade secret....
    30 years experience and knowledge certainly out weighs a 5min keyboard bashing on google
    Love's electrickery stuff and problems related to it as long as it dont go bang cos then its f......
    NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT
    A V8 is where thunder is made
    100%WEE

  14. #173
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by viperover View Post
    I have rebuilt so many of these motors I can do them with my eyes shut, even come up with a awesome fix for stripped threads in the block but thats my trade secret....
    Luckily I kept all my threads intact so I dont need to twist your arm for that secret

  15. #174
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay_B View Post
    Luckily I kept all my threads intact so I dont need to twist your arm for that secret
    Consider yourself fortunate cos these blocks are so soft you can sometimes here threads scream murder.
    The threads love to let rip with a good dose of overheat

    Is the motor now a 4.6 ? from what I it is so,
    I'm assuming you replaced the maf sensor housing with that of the later P38
    and replaced top air filter cover and......ordered a intake pipe for the D2 4,6, ex UK

    Then there's the ECU as the 4 and 4.6 mapping is radically different....but you cant use a p38 one
    Last edited by viperover; 2020/04/21 at 11:30 PM.

  16. #175
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by viperover View Post
    I have rebuilt so many of these motors I can do them with my eyes shut, even come up with a awesome fix for stripped threads in the block but thats my trade secret....
    Maybe share as thanks for all the free advertising
    Henk
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  18. #176
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by hbannink View Post
    Maybe share as thanks for all the free advertising
    As a rule its the middle outer threads on these V8 blocks that go really bad.
    I'll give a run down but cant provide specs, easy enough to measure and go from there.
    Remove middle welch plug, replace all while motor is out as this is a out motor repair
    Drill and tap to allow bolt thread all the way into the water jacket area as the modified bolts thread will protrude into this area.
    Basically a double nut (High nut - Extended nut) will be secured and a tidy spot weld applied, this is to prevent nut coming loose

    The length of the high strength bolt is from the water jacket area all the way through head and around 30-40mm protruding above with head on for measuring to allow nut to go where the bolt head would have been, in effect you are installing a extended stud
    The now modified stud will have a gap around where the original bolt went in and this is filled with epoxy Resin
    Pointless drilling out so big and trying to tap the small amount of aluminum left in this area, if I recall the long bolt was 10mm diameter
    Important to note that the nut that gets attached inside the water jacket is ground or machined with a taper so that it fits snug up against
    the internal casting as that too is angled, a small mirror or like I have a small 6mm inspection camera is useful.

    I must mention the bolt head is cut off and threaded to allow another high nut to be installed, as its high tensile bolt a cheap tap will fail dismally.

    I do have some pics so will in due course post them up, tis the reason why I have them
    This is not a job for the normal DIYer no matter how good you are unless.....you are very comfortable

    What to do with the other threads
    Steel inserts work well but the hole must not be pre tapped, inserts are designed that they cut their
    thread as they are installed in Aluminium.

    I made a jig that controls the drill for straight drilling as its so easy to go skew and then the insert will also go skew
    I'm certain that these blocks could easily be modded with studs if all the threads go which I have had in the past
    I've dumped plenty of blocks because of this, sadly as these are mods no guarantee is given and its is stated as such
    Rest assured the blocks I have done have yet to fail and I cannot see how this mod would

    What I want to start toying with is adapting the 5 litre V8, this is a killer motor, loads of power and very good fuel consumption vs the Lexus....
    No doubt more to come....


    Range Rover Specialist http://rangeroverworld.blogspot.com/
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    Last edited by viperover; 2020/04/20 at 10:17 PM.

  19. #177
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Thanks Chris

    I agree slightly out of the reach of the handyman but an interesting read and something I will remember for future use, cant wait to see the photographs.

    Repairing stripped threads is not an easy task and I like to find out the cause and not just remedy the symptom, a tiny endoscope cam is worth its weight in gold when you fiddle with engines. Saved my bacon a few times when buying ap runners and many times when doing plug runs on the 8l racer. Being able to see what is happening inside the piston is a lot better than just looking at the plug
    Henk
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  20. #178
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by viperover View Post
    Consider yourself fortunate cos these blocks are so soft you can sometimes here threads threads scream murder.
    The threads love to let rip with a good dose of overheat

    Is the motor now a 4.6 ? from what I it is so,
    I'm assuming you replaced the maf sensor housing with that of the later P38
    and replaced top air filter cover and......ordered a intake pipe for the D2 4,6, ex UK

    Then there's the ECU as the 4 and 4.6 mapping is radically different....but you cant use a p38 one
    Correct motor is now 4.6.

    Interested to hear more on your points here,

    1) From my understanding the MAF sensor is the same between the two engines just a different housing - 4.6 as used in RR and D2 from 2003 onwards was larger in diameter, If the sensors are different then without a doubt would need to be changed.
    I have seen comments about a different reading curves between the sensors but cant verify it.

    2) Intake pipe i have not heard about and this is the first mention i have come across. Based on the bigger diameter MAF housing i would assume the bigger diameter carries through into the intake tube for the 4.6, if so do you know how much bigger?
    I am not happy with my air box in general and am looking to change it.

    3) Mapping i am aware of and will still get to that but cant do much with lockdown for now. My understanding is that it just needs to clear the adaptive settings so that it can re-learn the settings for the 4.6.
    At least that is the easy basic thing to do without actually re-configuring the entire map?

    Thanks for your input to this thread, i know you have ALOT of knowledge with these motors to share.
    Last edited by Jay_B; 2020/04/21 at 08:43 AM.

  21. #179
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by viperover View Post
    As a rule its the middle outer threads on these V8 blocks that go really bad.
    I'll give a run down but cant provide specs, easy enough to measure and go from there.
    Remove middle welch plug, replace all while motor is out as this is a out motor repair
    Drill and tap to allow bolt thread all the way into the water jacket area as the modified bolts thread will protrude into this area.
    Basically a double nut (High nut - Extended nut) will be secured and a tidy spot weld applied, this is to prevent nut coming loose

    The length of the high strength bolt is from the water jacket area all the way through head and around 30-40mm protruding above with head on for measuring to allow nut to go where the bolt head would have been, in effect you are installing a extended stud
    The now modified stud will have a gap around where the original bolt went in and this is filled with epoxy Resin
    Pointless drilling out so big and trying to tap the small amount of aluminum left in this area, if I recall the long bolt was 10mm diameter
    Important to note that the nut that gets attached inside the water jacket is ground or machined with a taper so that it fits snug up against
    the internal casting as that too is angled, a small mirror or like I have a small 6mm inspection camera is useful.

    I must mention the bolt head is cut off and threaded to allow another high nut to be installed, as its high tensile bolt a cheap tap will fail dismally.

    I do have some pics so will in due course post them up, tis the reason why I have them
    This is not a job for the normal DIYer no matter how good you are unless.....you are very comfortable

    What to do with the other threads
    Steel inserts work well but the hole must not be pre tapped, inserts are designed that they cut their
    thread as they are installed in Aluminium.

    I made a jig that controls the drill for straight drilling as its so easy to go skew and then the insert will also go skew
    I'm certain that these blocks could easily be modded with studs if all the threads go which I have had in the past
    I've dumped plenty of blocks because of this, sadly as these are mods no guarantee is given and its is stated as such
    Rest assured the blocks I have done have yet to fail and I cannot see how this mod would

    What I want to start toying with is adapting the 5 litre V8, this is a killer motor, loads of power and very good fuel consumption vs the Lexus....
    No doubt more to come....


    Range Rover Specialist http://rangeroverworld.blogspot.com/
    067 605 2695
    Just reading this process has my heart rate up and knuiping... definitely would not be keen to try this myself unsupervised from someone who has done it before. Hopefully i never have to go through this process.

    Big props to taking on this problem and finding a workable and successful solution rather than just writing it off.

  22. #180
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by viperover View Post
    Consider yourself fortunate cos these blocks are so soft you can sometimes here threads threads scream murder.The threads love to let rip with a good dose of overheatIs the motor now a 4.6 ? from what I it is so,I'm assuming you replaced the maf sensor housing with that of the later P38and replaced top air filter cover and......ordered a intake pipe for the D2 4,6, ex UKThen there's the ECU as the 4 and 4.6 mapping is radically different....but you cant use a p38 one
    The NAS D2 4.6 uses the bigger MAF (as per the P38) and the bigger pipe/top airbox. However the throttle bodies are exactly the same size between the 4.0 and 4/6 so I dont understand any gains by using the bigger MAF etc. on the D2.
    My own D2 has a slightly modified 4.6 running the std 4.0 ecu/maf etc for 10 years now without a problem. But I do understand that more power/torque can be extracted by running a custom map for the 4.6.
    Last edited by TwinDisco; 2020/04/21 at 10:54 AM.
    2006 VW Touareg 4.2 V8 Auto
    2000 Disco 2 GS 4.6 V8 Auto

    2013 Wildebeest Kalfie Boswa
    2002 Audi S6 4.2 V8 quattro

    2013 Freelander SD4 (SWAMBO)
    ORRA Z07

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