Discovery 2: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8 - Page 3





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  1. #41
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Finished up measuring ring gaps, everything is spot on.
    Made me realize why you choose the correct people to do important work and why you pay extra for better quality parts.

    nice and consistent across all cylinders.

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  2. #42
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay_B View Post
    Pictures below of bearings I am not too happy with, I could also just be overly pedantic

    Attachment 550738
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    Ja, I won't be happy with those. I've never received cups in that condition.
    The underside might not be important but the inner radius isn't perfect as well.

    Get new ones and please do the plasiguage as advised earlier. It's even discussed in the 3.5 V8 manual.
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  3. #43
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay_B View Post
    On a different note I collected these beautiful pieces of engineering today...
    Its things like this that inspired me as a kid to study engineering.

    Work done by CamtechSA, highly recommended - Gerald is an awesome guy and knows his stuff.
    Valve guides were still in spec.

    - Gas flow/port
    - Skim
    - Cut 3 angle or radius seats
    - Swirl polish valves
    - Clean and assemble, including installation of new stem seals

    Attachment 550726 Attachment 550727

    Attachment 550728
    Damn that's beautiful...
    We need the like button back
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  4. #44
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay_B View Post
    Pictures below of bearings I am not too happy with, I could also just be overly pedantic
    Difficult to judge the marks from the pics.

    If you do decide to get a different set, certainly check clearances.
    Mic the crank and see if it is exactly on spec or not.

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  5. #45
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    So after the discussion earlier in this thread with regards to the ARP stud kit something wasnt sitting well in my gut.
    Long story short it turns out the studs advertised for the 4.6 on Rimmer Bros website are the old 124-4003 set and not the new ones. (although not listed with a part number)

    I have had conversations with ARP and Real Steel which is what is marked on the box, so one heck of an expensive mistake.
    Have now ordered the correct set from the states and should hopefully arrive during next week.

    Now to see if i can get Rimmer to take this nonsense back as i am outside there 28 day returns policy.

    Bright side i have a long weekend to make good headway on the sub-assembly

  6. #46
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Managed to drop the crank in late yesterday afternoon, bolts are all hand tight for now.
    Have some questions for thos who maybe have experience.

    1) The manual doesnt mention to lubricate the main bearing cap bolts with oil, anybody confirm if this must be done or not?
    It does say not to get oil in the cross bolts but to lubricate the dowty washers.

    2) The rear bearing cap gets a 3mm bead of Hylomar PL32 non-setting gasket compound, i have Victo Reinz Reinzosila and Loctite grey RTV silicone, to me the Victor Reinz is a beter match to the Hylomar mentioned in the manual but internet searches seem to say that an RTV silicone is better, experience and thoughts here?

    Now for the good stuff with some pictures

    Beautifully prepared bearing cap surfaces

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    Crank ground down to 1 Thou over, machining work by Miclin again is just perfect
    Used plenty of alchol wipes to get all surfaces nice and clean of any oils and grease.

    Took a good amount of time cleaning the crank journals, making sure i could get rid of as many fibres and debris as i could - use a magnifying glass and a torch to really good a good picture of what is sitting on the surface (its quite surprising), Its a tedious process but worth the effort.

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    Applied assembly lube on the bearings rather than oil, just works better in my opinion.
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    Slow and steady, dont want to nick one of the journals by letting it fall in
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    Last edited by Jay_B; 2019/12/16 at 05:40 AM.

  7. #47
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Looking good
    It is not what you buy its what you build.

  8. #48
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay_B View Post
    So after the discussion earlier in this thread with regards to the ARP stud kit something wasnt sitting well in my gut.
    Long story short it turns out the studs advertised for the 4.6 on Rimmer Bros website are the old 124-4003 set and not the new ones. (although not listed with a part number)

    I have had conversations with ARP and Real Steel which is what is marked on the box, so one heck of an expensive mistake.
    Have now ordered the correct set from the states and should hopefully arrive during next week.

    Now to see if i can get Rimmer to take this nonsense back as i am outside there 28 day returns policy.

    Bright side i have a long weekend to make good headway on the sub-assembly
    I have very good service from ARP. ARP rocker stud snapped on one of my builds. They supplied me with a new set free of charge.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    It is not what you buy its what you build.

  9. #49
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Reading threads like this makes a person realize how I don't pay attention to the finer details. I recall years ago that people would say they could literally eat off my garage floor it was so clean (nowadays it's a different story), but I think with the way you work , you must have an operating theater enviroment.

    Awesome job so far!!!!

    You are making my heart pump paw paw juice, but HELL, just keep it coming
    Alan


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  10. #50
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay_B View Post
    Managed to drop the crank in late yesterday afternoon, bolts are all hand tight for now.
    Have some questions for thos who maybe have experience.

    1) The manual doesnt mention to lubricate the main bearing cap bolts with oil, anybody confirm if this must be done or not?
    It does say not to get oil in the cross bolts but to lubricate the dowty washers.
    Don't lub bolts unless instructed to do it. The torq on the lubricated bolt must be reduced, so if you don't reduce it you van strip the threads.

    On some stuff I do lub but I reduce torq by 25-30%. But this is for the "busier" parts like tappet cover.
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  11. #51
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    So glad to have found this build thread and i am loving the content so far.
    Epic Jay B

  12. #52
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    That feeling when you finish torquing up the bearing cap bolts and nothing stripped and the crank turns like butter...

    Next up is conrods and rear crank seal



  13. #53
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Looking good 👍


    What’s your hourly rate for assembling?
    Alan


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  14. #54
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    This is better than P O R N, look forward to each episode...
    Last edited by Disco-Deon; 2019/12/18 at 04:15 PM.
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  15. #55
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Off topic slightly but this is What my brother is building for some one compleat re build and a bling bling on top 😁😁😁😁🙈🙈
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  16. #56
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by clivemd View Post
    Off topic slightly but this is What my brother is building for some one compleat re build and a bling bling on top 😁😁😁😁🙈🙈
    WOW that is beautiful, what motor and what vehicle is that going in?
    Some sort of drag car?

  17. #57
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Rear crank seal is in, man what a tight fit getting that into the housing... hard to believe it seems like such a weak point for oil leaks on.

    Anyway starting with Conrods and would like some input on solving the below riddle of getting the ring orientation correct...

    4. Position oil control expander ring joint and ring rail gaps all at one side, between gudgeon pin and away from left hand (thrust) side of piston viewed from front of piston. Space gaps in ring rails approximately 25 mm (1.0 in) each side of expander ring joint.

    5. Position compression rings with ring gaps on opposite sides of piston between gudgeon pin and right hand side of piston - viewed from front of piston.


    Thrust side by understanding for a Clockwise spinning crank when viewed from front is the left hand side of both banks.
    So my way of understanding the above would have me positioning as below


    Attached Images Attached Images  

  18. #58
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    So you decided to open that can of worms!

    I just stack all the rings to alternate on the sides I want them.

    For example:
    Oil ring 1 at 0°
    Oil ring 2 at 180°
    2nd compression ring at 0°
    1st comprehension ring at 180°

    It's just for the first startup according to the old guys. Rings are supposed to rotate.


    Edit: sorry Pandora's box and can of worms, I got confused.
    Last edited by jfh; 2019/12/18 at 05:09 PM.
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  19. #59
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Quote Originally Posted by jfh View Post
    So you decided to open that can of worms!

    I just stack all the rings to alternate on the sides I want them.

    For example:
    Oil ring 1 at 0°
    Oil ring 2 at 180°
    2nd compression ring at 0°
    1st comprehension ring at 180°

    It's just for the first startup according to the old guys. Rings are supposed to rotate.


    Edit: sorry Pandora's box and can of worms, I got confused.
    Father taught me that way in the 60's.
    There is no task too simple for some people to complicate !



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  20. #60
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    Default Re: Build and assembly of 4.6L V8

    Fitted pistons 1 & 2 this afternoon, Goetze packaging gave a suggested orientation for the oil rings and i then followed the manual for the two compression rings.

    Assy lube on bearing cap
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    little trick I learned to prevent nicking the bores or crank journal when pushing the pistons in
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    Fitted new bolts, torque is 20Nm then further 80deg, again relieved to not have anything pop after getting to that 80deg
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    All bolted up and clearance within spec between rods
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    Crank turns so smooth still, no binding or anything and then sadly my heart sank as i saw this below while i was cleaning up for the day and taking last few photos.

    From being paranoid about cleanliness i want to be sick seeing this, seems like something has gotten into one of the rings and scratched the surface of the cylinder, i cant really feel it with my fingernail so may be superficial but even still...

    Now debating whether i need to strip the whole lot out and send back to engineers to be cleaned up
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