Trip report: Zambia & Namibia, August 2019





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  1. #1
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    Default Trip report: Zambia & Namibia, August 2019

    In our latest African vagrancy, we visited slightly less popular parts of two beautiful countries: western part of Zambia and far north of Namibia. This TR, which will cover only Namibian part of the trip, is continuation of the one that I started in Zambian forum and deals with Zambian part. https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...ia-Augist-2019

    After visiting Lower Zambezi, Kafue and Liuwa Plains in Zambia, we crossed into Namibia. Our car was rented from Savanna Car Hire from Windhoek and they delivered it for us to Lusaka, but to cut the costs down (cross-country delivery fee is quite hefty), we decided we will return it in Windhoek. This gave us the opportunity to revisit some parks in Caprivi (we where there two years ago) and explore some parts of Kaokoland (totally new for us) and Damaraland.

    We are perfectly aware that with this trip, we have barely scratched the surface of those two regions, as in general, we didn't venture off the main roads. But we found them really fascinating and will certainly return for some more thorough exploration.

    In this thread, I will only briefly describe our trip. For more detailed description of our experiencesp, you can visit our blog safaribug.wordpress.com. Currently, there are blog posts from Zambian part published, as well as the first part from Namibia - Caprivi. Others will follow in next couple of days. You can take a look at them here (I will add individual blog post links here, as they will be published):


    Trip overview

    Lower Zambezi NP

    Kafue NP

    Liuwa Plains NP

    Caprivi

    Kaokoland

    Damaraland
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    Last edited by ortelius; 2019/09/16 at 10:31 PM.
    24 hours in a day.... 24 beer in a case.... Coincidence?
    -------------------------------------------------------------
    My blog: Our African Ramblings (https://safaribug.wordpress.com/)

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  3. #2
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    Default Re: Trip report: Zambia & Namibia, August 2019

    Caprivi

    We entered Namibia at Katima Mulilo, refilled our tanks and renewed our provisions. We noticed immediately that here, everything was much more organized and orderly, compared to similar towns in Zambia. After our shopping was done, we immediately continued to Mudumu NP in the eastern part of Caprivi strip. That park was our favorite on our first visit to Caprivi, two years ago. We spent two nights there, camping in Nakatwa campsite #1. This is real wilderness camping - right on the bank of Kwando river, no fences, no infrastructure except a longdrop, wildlife constantly moving around or in your camping site. A bliss! And we were the only ones in the park, we had it all to ourselves.

    From Mudumu, we moved west to Divundu, to visit Mahango and Buffalo core areas of Bwabwata NP. Ngepi campsite was full, so we settled at Nunda Lodge, which offer very nice camping, right on the bank of Kavango river.

    In the afternoon we explored Mahango area of the park, which we also have visited two years ago. Drive along Kavando floodplains was very nice and relaxing. This time we also visited area up to the waterhole on the western side of the main road toward Botswana, which we didn't explore on our first visit. Apparently, sightings of lions, two leopards and a pack of wild dogs were reported from that area in the morning, but we didn't find any of them. It was very nice drive, though. The scenery is totally different than that along the river and the track was in surprisingly good condition.

    Next morning we visited Buffalo Core Area. It was new for us and we found it simply delightful. Fantastic scenery, versatile landscapes, prolific and very relaxed wildlife and no visitors - we only met one other vehicle in there. If visiting Caprivi, it would really be a shame not to visit both of those two "sub-parks" of Bwabwata NP.

    You can read more detailed report in our blog: https://safaribug.wordpress.com/2019...-2019-caprivi/
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    24 hours in a day.... 24 beer in a case.... Coincidence?
    -------------------------------------------------------------
    My blog: Our African Ramblings (https://safaribug.wordpress.com/)

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  5. #3
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    Default Re: Trip report: Zambia & Namibia, August 2019

    Kaokoland

    From Caprivi, we were headed along Angolan border toward Epupa Falls. For our first stop, we choose Taranga Safari Lodge, some 30 km west of Rundu on B10. They have nice spacious campsite, on lush green grass and with plenty of shade.

    Next day we continued along northern border on C45 and C46 to Ruacana. All the way excellent tar and little traffic, except for larger towns of Oshakati and Outapi. From Ruacana, we followed Kunene river to the west. Once notorious C3700 has been upgraded recently and is now comfortable gravel road. It still has some very steep ascends and descends accross the hilly terrain. We decided to make Ruacana River Lodge our home for next two days. Its setting is beautiful, green oasis right on the river. When there, don't miss their boat cruise - it's fantastic. They also organized our visit to nearby Himba village.

    From KRL, we continued west on C3700 to Epupa falls. We stayed at Epupa Falls Lodge campsite. Couple of overlanders groups there, but they were well behaved. The falls were not in their finest edition due to low water levels, but quite impressive all the same. It's well worth to climb on the lookout hill west of the fals before sunset, as the view from there in the soft light of the setting sun is stunning.

    From Epupa Falls, we turned south on C43 to Opuwo. The road was fine. After refueling and restocking, we continued past Warmquelle to Khowarib, our next stop.

    Full report: https://safaribug.wordpress.com/2019/09/12/zambia-namibia-2019-kaokoland/

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    24 hours in a day.... 24 beer in a case.... Coincidence?
    -------------------------------------------------------------
    My blog: Our African Ramblings (https://safaribug.wordpress.com/)

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  7. #4
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    Default Re: Trip report: Zambia & Namibia, August 2019

    Thank you Ortelius, the blog contains all the info I was hoping for. Thank you for continiously positively contributing.

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  9. #5
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    Default Re: Trip report: Zambia & Namibia, August 2019

    Puik terug voer awsome fotos lekke saam julle gereis

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  11. #6
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    Default Re: Trip report: Zambia & Namibia, August 2019

    Damaraland

    Khowarib lies on Hoanib River and the contrast between lush green valley and surrounding arid mountains was striking. We stayed at Khowarib Comunity Campsite which is position on a high cliff, overlooking the bend on the river deep bellow. The campsite is well maintained and clean and we liked it better than Khowarib Lodge Campsite, which was also quite full on our arrival. On the other hand, we were the only guests at community campsite, so we could choose the nicest pitch, right on the cliff. We had our own flush toilet and shower. We didn't have enough time to try the Khowarib Schlucht 4x4 trail - maybe next time.

    From there, we continued to Palmwag, where we were searched for raw meat at the wet fence. We had none, so no problems there. Our road C40 then climbed to Grootberg Pass and then descended to a high plateau toward Khamanjab.About 10 kilometers past the Grootberg Pass, we had our only mishap with our car on this trip. Our right rear tire burst and we shredded it completely. We had two spare wheels, but have had quite some hard time before we succeeded to change it. With raised suspension on the car, we simply weren't able to lift it enough with supplied hydraulic jack. Luckily, we had two of those jacks and with some improvisations and with the help of some large rocks that were laying around, we managed to mount a spare and in a little more than an hour, we were back on our merry way.

    Our next stop for the night was Otjitotongwe Cheetah Guest Farm, which offer camping and was ideally positioned on our route between Khowarib and Windhoek. Their campsite is perfectly acceptable, but nothing to write home about. We attended their "show" with three domestic cheetahs and later the feeding of wild cheetahs that live in the wild, but inside their fenced farm. It was far less exciting than seeing one in true wild environment, but still quite interested and educational.

    On the last day, we drove to Windhoek, returned our car and had a nice dinner at "compulsory" Joe's Beerhouse. Next morning, we flew to Johannesburg and from there via Istanbul back home.
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    24 hours in a day.... 24 beer in a case.... Coincidence?
    -------------------------------------------------------------
    My blog: Our African Ramblings (https://safaribug.wordpress.com/)

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