Ek het Amarok olie filter unit op en gaan nie oor 110°C met opdraandes nie.
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Ek stem saam dis te hoog. 'n Vriend van my se olie temp loop normaal - 95 tot 105 grade onder dieselfde omstandighede as myne.
My EGR pype is afgesluit, so ek dink daaraan om die Amarok een af te haal en my oorspronklike een terug te sit en te kyk wat hy doen. Maar dit klink asof daar te min spasie is om dit te doen sonder om die neus vd bus af te haal en terug te sit.
Weet iemand of mens die oorspronklie EGR kan uitkry/vervang sonder om die neus af te haal?
Ek het Amarok olie filter unit op en gaan nie oor 110°C met opdraandes nie.
VW Transporter T5.1 2.0TDI(CFCA) Double Cab 4Motion 2012
Audi A4 B6 1.8T 2002
VW Touareg V6 TDI(BKS) 2006
Boys and girls. Just make sure we are all talking the same temp here. The temps I quoted in earlier posts was WATER/COOLANT temp. It seems later posts refer to OIL temp. In my mind oil would be able to handle heat a lot better than water. We must maybe check the specs on the specific oil used. Water without coolant and not under pressure will boil/become a gas and no longer fulfill its cooling properties. So to me water temp is critical.
CATS
2015 VW Transporter T5.1 132kw 4motion DSG - (Shrek) My Bush-Bus
2003 Safari Xplorer
Previous : 1996 Colt Rodeo 3000 V6 (The Original! - SOLD) : 1998 Colt Rodeo 2.8Tdi (My first Diesel - SOLD) : 2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc GLS (Sylvester - SOLD) : 2001 LR Defender 90 (Grizzly - Sadly SOLD) : 2010 LR Discovery 4 HSE (Snow White - SOLD) : 2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD GLS (Snoopy - SOLD but never forgotten) :2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc GLS (Casper ,Old Faithfull, - SOLD)
I discovered my radiator was fairly blocked up. It was worse after flushing it, with my water temperature also rising to 110 degrees and more! I installed a new radiator and thermostat and now the water temperature stays perfectly on 90 now as it should. I refitted my old original EGR cooler at the same time (nose off the van) - it is Rev "D" which seems from other searches to be OK. The Exhaust gas circuit is still disconnected and has blanking plates on. EGR delete and power upgrade on the ECU is still the same. The water circuit is as per the original through the EGR cooler. My oil temp runs at about 103 under normal driving, but has climbed to 117 going up a hill with the van full of passengers. I have done some more research, and it seems to be fine for oil temp to climb 130 degrees, but becoming problematic from 140 onwards. Synthetic oil which is what we are using, can tolerate higher temperatures before breaking down than older mineral oil. It sounds as if our modern engines are designed to run a bit hotter than in the past - it makes them more fuel efficient. I also learned that oil needs to exceed 100 at times to force boiling off of any trapped water in the oil. This comes from from gasses getting past the rings generated by combustion of the diesel.
I would love to hear what others experience in terms of a range of Oil temperatures under different driving conditions.
On our way from the Kruger I measured 137 up Schoemanskloof... The water temperature also started to rise. Not driving particulary hard, towing a Bushlapa Baobab.
EGR blanked, cat removed, DPF removed and re-mapped. Will have the bus checked out by someone doing mapping. Might this high temperature be due to EGR removal and/or re-mapping?
Last edited by Stinger; 2022/10/08 at 08:05 PM.
Removed my EGR this weekend and installed the one from the amarok
I'll tried removing it without stripping the front end but had to in the end due to one nut
I have to admit, if you know what you are doing you strip the front and assembly it within two hours.......I took a bit longer
Next weekend I'll write out the EGR valve and cooling pump #2
I'll play around with the EGR that was removed but it seems like the water for the oil cooler might come from the engine as well as the EGR, this would imply that you can't just blank off the water at the EGR...... please don't quote me on this I still need to play a bit
Any good recommendations who can do a proper gearbox service including clutch kit?
"Any good recommendations who can do a proper gearbox service including clutch kit?"
Geartronics DSG I think will be good for what you mention.
CATS
2015 VW Transporter T5.1 132kw 4motion DSG - (Shrek) My Bush-Bus
2003 Safari Xplorer
Previous : 1996 Colt Rodeo 3000 V6 (The Original! - SOLD) : 1998 Colt Rodeo 2.8Tdi (My first Diesel - SOLD) : 2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc GLS (Sylvester - SOLD) : 2001 LR Defender 90 (Grizzly - Sadly SOLD) : 2010 LR Discovery 4 HSE (Snow White - SOLD) : 2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD GLS (Snoopy - SOLD but never forgotten) :2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc GLS (Casper ,Old Faithfull, - SOLD)
Any recommendations who is the best to write out the cooling pump #2 of the software?
Evening All,
I have a 2014 T5.1 Transporter 4Motion with 230 000 + kms on it. A few days ago I noticed a drop or two of coolant under the vehicle and decided to have it looked at. It has been determined that the EGR Cooler is the source of the leak.
An internet search lead me to this thread! :-)
Unfortunately I'm uncertain of which EGR / oil cooler is fitted to the vehicle as the label is no longer legible.
Just to be sure:
1. Is the whole EGR / oil cooler unit removed from the engine and the Goldwagen one fitted?
2. On the Goldwagen part, any further comments on the outlet as highlighted by Hoodee and CATS?
3. Does the EGR Valve itself need to be removed or just blanked off and ecu mapped?
My intention is to do the EGR, DPF delete and CAT removal at the same time. These all involve ecu mapping.
Still wrestling with the ide of tackling it myself, however if there are recommended service providers in the Joburg / Pretoria areas that can assist, please let me know.
Thank you.
Stephen removed the unit on my bus about 18 months ago on 173,000kms. Just passed 190,000kms now and no issues to date.
https://www.facebook.com/p/Panics-Pl...0063671435080/
I recall the total cost being a bit less than what I thought it would be.
Not that far out of the way if you are looking for someone in the JHB, PTA area.
Alfa 159 - die dors ene, met 6 silinders
Jimny GL Auto - Swambo se nuwe daily
VW T5 4Motion - cause there ain't no Italian 4x4 kombies
Alfa Giulietta - sodat Mini-Me nie geld kan mors op drank en sigarette nie
My bus is still running good with the Amarok oil cooler unit. I recently had the EGR programmed out as well to stop getting an error message when I travel down to the coast from Gauteng, but have yet to see if it really works as I have yet to do a coastal trip. Mine now on 150000kms.
CATS
2015 VW Transporter T5.1 132kw 4motion DSG - (Shrek) My Bush-Bus
2003 Safari Xplorer
Previous : 1996 Colt Rodeo 3000 V6 (The Original! - SOLD) : 1998 Colt Rodeo 2.8Tdi (My first Diesel - SOLD) : 2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc GLS (Sylvester - SOLD) : 2001 LR Defender 90 (Grizzly - Sadly SOLD) : 2010 LR Discovery 4 HSE (Snow White - SOLD) : 2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD GLS (Snoopy - SOLD but never forgotten) :2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc GLS (Casper ,Old Faithfull, - SOLD)
Thanks CATS. The Amarok oil cooler unit refer to, is that the one from Goldwagen as per your post #25?
If I'm not mistaken, I saw your rig at Royal Natal earlier in the year. Very Nice.
2015 VW Transporter T5.1 132kw 4motion DSG - (Shrek) My Bush-Bus
2003 Safari Xplorer
Previous : 1996 Colt Rodeo 3000 V6 (The Original! - SOLD) : 1998 Colt Rodeo 2.8Tdi (My first Diesel - SOLD) : 2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc GLS (Sylvester - SOLD) : 2001 LR Defender 90 (Grizzly - Sadly SOLD) : 2010 LR Discovery 4 HSE (Snow White - SOLD) : 2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD GLS (Snoopy - SOLD but never forgotten) :2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc GLS (Casper ,Old Faithfull, - SOLD)
We were in the park for a few days over the Easter weekend. Camped at the top above the Oval, there where the solar didn't work too well!
Okay, So I'm in this now and need to make it work. Stripped the front end off yesterday to see exactly what's going on. Turns out that the water pipe on the oil filter side (bottom) of the unit is the culprit. Apart from the fact that there was a fair amount of oil from a previous tappet cover issue, I couldn't see anything obvious, but decided to remove the existing unit to make sure it wasn't leaking against the block (Turned out this was not the case).
Decisions... Replace the pipe, clean engine and get on with it OR explore other options?
Before I put it back together I'm exploring other options. My vehicle seems to have been fitted with one of the earlier "problematic" EGR/Oil Cooler units, so the EGR blank off is my preferred option as I don't want to replace this unit with a new one.
So that leaves me weighing up keeping the existing unit and blanking off the EGR, or going the Goldwagen/Amarok Oil Cooler as proposed earlier in the thread and blanking of the EGR. I've already purchased the Goldwagen/Amarok unit and leaning towards this option. However, I have a few concerns / comments with regards the "modification" and would appreciate some feedback from those in the know:
- The Goldwagen / Amarok part has valve in one of the oil journals, when the original unit does not have. I'm guessing that this is a one way valve of sorts, but uncertain. Attached is a pic I found online. Should I be concerned about this valve and fit it as is?
- The original EGR/Oil Cooler unit had a vacuum pipe connected to it. If I go the Goldwagen/Amarok route, do I simply block off this air pipe?
- What would be the correct torque settings for the four bolts holding the units? I'm guessing it would be the same irrespective of which unit is replaced. I read somewhere online that it's 9NM, but they were extremely tight when I removed the original unit.
- The plumbing of the coolant pipes seems very simple and I plan on bypassing the recirculation pump. In my mind this pump only circulates water into the top of the original EGR/Oil cooler and out again. If I go with the Goldwagen/Amarok unit, this pump is not required. Have I missed something here?
General note - There are three or four of the coolant pipes that are really not in good shape and it's a matter of time before they started leaking too. Doing the modification reduces the plumbing somewhat and with the recirculation pump out, there is less that can go wrong(?)
Lastly, can the catalytic converter be removed / deleted(software) without doing the DPF removal / delete(delete)?
Appreciate all comments and trusting this will also help others.
Unfortunately I cannot help on the practical issues as I decided that this job was above my knowledge and used Stephan from Panic to do the work for me. Maybe give him a ring and ask if he might help with some advice. He has done a few now.
Al I can comment is that I have done the Goldwagen conversion in mine and so far so good, but I suppose only time will tell.
CATS
2015 VW Transporter T5.1 132kw 4motion DSG - (Shrek) My Bush-Bus
2003 Safari Xplorer
Previous : 1996 Colt Rodeo 3000 V6 (The Original! - SOLD) : 1998 Colt Rodeo 2.8Tdi (My first Diesel - SOLD) : 2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc GLS (Sylvester - SOLD) : 2001 LR Defender 90 (Grizzly - Sadly SOLD) : 2010 LR Discovery 4 HSE (Snow White - SOLD) : 2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD GLS (Snoopy - SOLD but never forgotten) :2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc GLS (Casper ,Old Faithfull, - SOLD)
Today I have just completed the EGR and DPF delete for my 2013 CFC engine.
I have done it with a guy called Duan in Polokwane.
The whole job costed me 8.3k plus 1.6k for the Amarok oil cooler. I guess it is too soon to say much about the car but so far so good.
If it wasn't for this group, I wouldn't have done it but I am relieved that I did it.
I intend on taking the car for a long drive just so I can test the performance.
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