2006 KB300 300k km





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  1. #1
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    Default 2006 KB300 300k km

    Hi All,

    I have read a few threads about my vehicle but i have some specific questions.

    My KB is approaching 300 000 km and I would like to know what I should be looking out for in terms of preventative maintenance.

    1. Should I replace the water pump? If so, with what? The stealers want R3800 for a new one, can I use something else?

    2. I have already had the main end seal replaced and a new clutch fitted. Two of the injectors went recently and I suspect that the other two will be going soon as well. How long do the diesel pumps (Bosch VP44, I think) on the 4JH1's last? Is there cause for concern? The previous two owners of the vehicle were very cautious owners and they filled up when the light came on. I have been the same.

    3. How should one drive a diesel like the KB300 when its cold? I know this is a odd question, but I am used to bikes and petrol cars. Also how do you drive it in general? When moving about in the city and its traffic, is it better to be in a higher gear with lower revs or should I be in a lower gear with higher revs? Again, its a odd question but I haven't really owned anything with a turbo before.

    These are the things I can think of. Please let me know if there is anything else to worry about.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    Quote Originally Posted by Welman87 View Post
    Hi All,

    I have read a few threads about my vehicle but i have some specific questions.

    My KB is approaching 300 000 km and I would like to know what I should be looking out for in terms of preventative maintenance.

    1. Should I replace the water pump? If so, with what? The stealers want R3800 for a new one, can I use something else?

    2. I have already had the main end seal replaced and a new clutch fitted. Two of the injectors went recently and I suspect that the other two will be going soon as well. How long do the diesel pumps (Bosch VP44, I think) on the 4JH1's last? Is there cause for concern? The previous two owners of the vehicle were very cautious owners and they filled up when the light came on. I have been the same.

    3. How should one drive a diesel like the KB300 when its cold? I know this is a odd question, but I am used to bikes and petrol cars. Also how do you drive it in general? When moving about in the city and its traffic, is it better to be in a higher gear with lower revs or should I be in a lower gear with higher revs? Again, its a odd question but I haven't really owned anything with a turbo before.

    These are the things I can think of. Please let me know if there is anything else to worry about.

    Thanks in advance.
    2. I am not aware of any issues on the diesel pumps... Will await more feedback from other experts on here

    3. Start and do not idle.. Drive off but keep revs as low as possible. Wait to reach operating temperature before you try and race it.... Keep revs low where possible... Low end torque on Isuzu motors are one of the main reasons I love them so much.. No need to rev them high... I like to pull away in 2nd gear, or skip a gear when accelerating... Higher revs in my opinion are for the petrol's

    My dad has the same model, and is picking up some charging issues... Also close to 300'000km so he suspects alternator... Apart from that there shouldn't be too many issues... But there are a few more experts here that will be able to assist with point number 1


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  4. #3
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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    Quote Originally Posted by Redman View Post
    2. I am not aware of any issues on the diesel pumps... Will await more feedback from other experts on here

    3. Start and do not idle.. Drive off but keep revs as low as possible. Wait to reach operating temperature before you try and race it.... Keep revs low where possible... Low end torque on Isuzu motors are one of the main reasons I love them so much.. No need to rev them high... I like to pull away in 2nd gear, or skip a gear when accelerating... Higher revs in my opinion are for the petrol's

    My dad has the same model, and is picking up some charging issues... Also close to 300'000km so he suspects alternator... Apart from that there shouldn't be too many issues... But there are a few more experts here that will be able to assist with point number 1

    Thanks for your input Redman. Hahahahaha I think racing a KB300 is going to take some doing. I have a light foot most of the time and even when the vehicle is on operating temp I rarely exceed 2k rpm when driving around in town. Highway is of course a different story.

    Why do you say start and do not idle? Has it got something to do with the way the oil pump works? I have always idled my cars and bikes for about a minute before I drive off. Have I been doing it wrong my whole driving life?
    Last edited by Welman87; 2019/06/05 at 05:08 PM.

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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    I would agree with Redman on the cold start driving.

    Those bakkie and 4jh1's are really good engines if looked after/service with the good stuff when required. Rather sooner than later. Sold mine last year with 400odd on clock. Only replaced glow plugs, wheel bearing and a starter-my fault not doing not replacing the glow plugs sooner. And some maintenance stuff.

    I used either Delo 400 or engen diesellube 700 engine oils after I took servicing over after mandatory agents service/warantees

    kyk mooi na haar en sy sal mooi kyk na jou

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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    Quote Originally Posted by Dwayne P View Post
    I would agree with Redman on the cold start driving.

    Those bakkie and 4jh1's are really good engines if looked after/service with the good stuff when required. Rather sooner than later. Sold mine last year with 400odd on clock. Only replaced glow plugs, wheel bearing and a starter-my fault not doing not replacing the glow plugs sooner. And some maintenance stuff.

    I used either Delo 400 or engen diesellube 700 engine oils after I took servicing over after mandatory agents service/warantees

    kyk mooi na haar en sy sal mooi kyk na jou
    Thanks for the input Dwayne

    Yeah I have started to service it every 5k km. Just to be on the safe side. I also switched over from shell rimula to delo 400 on the last serivce. Maybe its just my imagination but the engine feels happier. Previous owner also used engine flush every 20000 km. I'll probably do the same unless told other wise by people who know more than me.

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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    At start up (cold) part of the fuel is burned and the rest is usually expelled through the exhaust (the whitish grey smoke which is actually atomized fuel droplets)... As the engine heats up the combustion becomes more complete and the whitish/grey smoke disappears.

    Diesel engines are commercial in nature. They are made to work, and at high temperature. That is when they are efficient. There is not enough heat generated during idling to keep it it warm. A cold running engine, either through excessive idling or over cooling wears faster than an engine operating at correct running temperature.

    Now this is a bit more applicable in the commercial sector, but what I am trying to say is that there is no benefit in idling first then driving vs. driving of in a controlled manner. I don't think that the 1 min idling will caused harm, but also in my opinion don't hold any benefit.


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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    Quote Originally Posted by Welman87 View Post
    Thanks for the input Dwayne

    Yeah I have started to service it every 5k km. Just to be on the safe side. I also switched over from shell rimula to delo 400 on the last serivce. Maybe its just my imagination but the engine feels happier. Previous owner also used engine flush every 20000 km. I'll probably do the same unless told other wise by people who know more than me.
    Reduced intervals good think with higher mileage.
    I have never flushed an engine, so can't comment on that.

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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    Quote Originally Posted by Redman View Post
    At start up (cold) part of the fuel is burned and the rest is usually expelled through the exhaust (the whitish grey smoke which is actually atomized fuel droplets)... As the engine heats up the combustion becomes more complete and the whitish/grey smoke disappears.

    Diesel engines are commercial in nature. They are made to work, and at high temperature. That is when they are efficient. There is not enough heat generated during idling to keep it it warm. A cold running engine, either through excessive idling or over cooling wears faster than an engine operating at correct running temperature.

    Now this is a bit more applicable in the commercial sector, but what I am trying to say is that there is no benefit in idling first then driving vs. driving of in a controlled manner. I don't think that the 1 min idling will caused harm, but also in my opinion don't hold any benefit.
    Thanks for taking the time to explain Redman. I will be putting your advice to work.

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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    Quote Originally Posted by Redman View Post
    At start up (cold) part of the fuel is burned and the rest is usually expelled through the exhaust (the whitish grey smoke which is actually atomized fuel droplets)... As the engine heats up the combustion becomes more complete and the whitish/grey smoke disappears.

    Diesel engines are commercial in nature. They are made to work, and at high temperature. That is when they are efficient. There is not enough heat generated during idling to keep it it warm. A cold running engine, either through excessive idling or over cooling wears faster than an engine operating at correct running temperature.

    Now this is a bit more applicable in the commercial sector, but what I am trying to say is that there is no benefit in idling first then driving vs. driving of in a controlled manner. I don't think that the 1 min idling will caused harm, but also in my opinion don't hold any benefit.
    I fully agree with this. Letting a diesel engine idle to heat it up, is a bad idea. This has been discussed in the technical section of Carmag many moons ago as well. When the engine is cold, start it and drive off in a "controlled" manner and wait for the water temp to reach operating point before attempting any hooliganism (boost is awesome). You can even test this by starting the bakkie cold and letting it idle and you will note that it takes ages for the engine to reach operating temp. I also do not let my bakkie idle to "cool down" but rather keep the revs below 2000rpm for the last few minutes of driving.

    One other thing that I do that might be frowned upon, is getting the engine under load (accelerate on an incline) to get the engine to work. My theory for this is that is forces the cat to get nice and hot and burn off some soot. I find that driving like a granny is good for consumption, but bad for the cat.

    Otherwise, it's an Isuzu. If it is not smoking, making odd noises or showing error lights, just maintain it and drive it
    2008 KB300 D-TEQ 4x2

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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    Hi Welman,

    Out of curiosity, how is your driver's seat holding up?

    My dad has the 2006 KB300 and my father in law has a 2006 KB350 and both of the driver seats are showing their age quite a lot. The cushion on the right of the seat have collapsed on both. I know this is mostly due to the climbing in and out, but I've seen this on another example as well.

    My old 280DT did not show this type of wear even after more extensive use.


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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    The last time I asked advice from the local Isuzu dealership, one of the technicians told me "Meneer dis 'n Isuzu, RY hom".
    2008 ISUZU KB300 D-TEQ 4x4 LX AUTO

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  16. #12
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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    Quote Originally Posted by B_Engel View Post
    The last time I asked advice from the local Isuzu dealership, one of the technicians told me "Meneer dis 'n Isuzu, RY hom".
    Hhahaha net so! I hope you gave that man a bells.
    2017 Isuzu KB 300 4X4 Auto (current)
    2008 Isuzu KB 300 4X4 manual (current)
    2017 Isuzu kB 250 (sold)
    2006 Isuzu KB300 (sold)
    2002 Isuzu Kb 260 petrol (sold)

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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    Quote Originally Posted by Redman View Post
    Hi Welman,

    Out of curiosity, how is your driver's seat holding up?

    My dad has the 2006 KB300 and my father in law has a 2006 KB350 and both of the driver seats are showing their age quite a lot. The cushion on the right of the seat have collapsed on both. I know this is mostly due to the climbing in and out, but I've seen this on another example as well.

    My old 280DT did not show this type of wear even after more extensive use.
    Hi Redman,

    Yeah my seat is showing its age as well, and I think it will start to degrade even more now because I am a dukgat. However, my mother-in-law does all kinds of reupholstering and she has done a car or two, so I'll ask her if she can re-foam the seat and then maybe do it with a denser foam. Only problem is, she lives in PE and I live in PTA.

    What I have noticed with Isuzu is there is always one thing that's a constant, the engine. It seems these engines were over engineered to last. But they seem to drop the ball on smaller things like wiring and, as you now mentioned, the seats.

    Seeing as no one has mentioned anything about my water pump question, I will just leave it be. Gaan nie krap waar dit nie jik nie. I'll flush the water system on the next service and keep an eye on the levels. But are there signs that a water pump is going, or do they just quit?

  18. #14
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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    No need to use engine flush ever.
    Use good qaulity antifreeze from dealers, then usually you waterpump las much longer. Have one with 540k km on..

    Drive in a controlled manner when cold. No need to kill your engine slowly by idling it.

    Lastly, dont labour it at to lw rpms just because they have nice torque down low. High trottle opening at low revs put huge loads on pistons with high resultant temps. Also your gearbox dont like it to much, especially your higher gears.

    Geniet hom.

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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    Quote Originally Posted by Welman87 View Post

    Seeing as no one has mentioned anything about my water pump question, I will just leave it be. Gaan nie krap waar dit nie jik nie. I'll flush the water system on the next service and keep an eye on the levels. But are there signs that a water pump is going, or do they just quit?
    Normally you only change a water pump if it leaks, unless there's a specific design weaknesss/issue with that type of vehicle, which usually is well publicised.

    I have never seen an Isuzu water pump up close ,but with other Japanese brands I have seen some that after high mileages looked exactly the same as the new one they were being replaced with (for 'preventative maintenance').

    The right spec coolant prevents corrosion and lubricates the components: it's a simple mechanical thing that (if properly designed in the first place) could outlast the vehicle. .c

    Cheers

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  22. #16
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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    Thanks for the reply guys, I really appreciate it.

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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    I have a 2005 KB 300 with 420k on the clock....bought brand new.
    Only replaced the following
    1. new radiator and water pump at 350 - prob my fault since i just replace it with normal water so it rusted.
    2. new alternator
    3. new diesel pump at 400k - cost me 20k, had to get it done asap since i was in the cape for argus.
    4. replaced steering wheel leather to look nice again.
    5. replace leather on the right seat....wear and tear. i can recommend leather pro. awesome job. just replaced the small piece.
    6. my water sensor giving me issues now as per my thread on the group.
    7. Oh yes...i drove with the engine light on for 2 years....even isuzu wanted to replace everything....luckily i did not have the money for their experiments
    Took it to bosch and they had the car for 2 days....R600 later and it was an electrical fault. the wire shaved against the body and it made contact.
    8. Put in a new thingy that takes the power to the rear wheel....the word escapes me now. was done on recommendation. shaft something hahaha
    9. last one, slight oil leak on the engine cover, bought the kit R300 something, got a guy that will do the labour for R600, so doing that next weekend. might do the sump selas as well.

    Other than that, ry hom pappie. Paid off for 10 years now so a few k here and there is not breaking the bank.
    People laughed when i had to replace the 20k pump but that is 2-3 installments of a new bakkie, so credit card, 60 months budget and off you go.
    and my insurance is R800, bargain

    enjoy the miles!

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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    Quote Originally Posted by Drukkie View Post
    I have a 2005 KB 300 with 420k on the clock....bought brand new.
    Only replaced the following
    1. new radiator and water pump at 350 - prob my fault since i just replace it with normal water so it rusted.
    2. new alternator
    3. new diesel pump at 400k - cost me 20k, had to get it done asap since i was in the cape for argus.
    4. replaced steering wheel leather to look nice again.
    5. replace leather on the right seat....wear and tear. i can recommend leather pro. awesome job. just replaced the small piece.
    6. my water sensor giving me issues now as per my thread on the group.
    7. Oh yes...i drove with the engine light on for 2 years....even isuzu wanted to replace everything....luckily i did not have the money for their experiments
    Took it to bosch and they had the car for 2 days....R600 later and it was an electrical fault. the wire shaved against the body and it made contact.
    8. Put in a new thingy that takes the power to the rear wheel....the word escapes me now. was done on recommendation. shaft something hahaha
    9. last one, slight oil leak on the engine cover, bought the kit R300 something, got a guy that will do the labour for R600, so doing that next weekend. might do the sump selas as well.

    Other than that, ry hom pappie. Paid off for 10 years now so a few k here and there is not breaking the bank.
    People laughed when i had to replace the 20k pump but that is 2-3 installments of a new bakkie, so credit card, 60 months budget and off you go.
    and my insurance is R800, bargain

    enjoy the miles!

    Hi Drukkie,

    Thanks for the info.

    How did you know the diesel pump needed to be replaced? Were there warning signs leading up to pump failure or did it just go one day without warning?

    In point 8, do you mean you replaced the prop shaft?

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    Default Re: 2006 KB300 300k km

    Quote Originally Posted by Welman87 View Post
    Hi Drukkie,

    Thanks for the info.

    How did you know the diesel pump needed to be replaced? Were there warning signs leading up to pump failure or did it just go one day without warning?

    In point 8, do you mean you replaced the prop shaft?
    yes the propshaft hahahaha....that's the one! urgh.
    it's hard to say for the pump...i had about three years where the bakkie would lose power, almast like the turbo was not working. maybe once a week.
    Sometimes the engine light would come on....and then go off again.
    Then in the cape it was getting worse...maybe lose power 3 times on a trip. funny enough for 10 seconds then power was back.
    It packed up a week later. Hope that helps!!!

    regards

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