Stripping Oregon pine doors: Heat gun or paint stripper?





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  1. #1
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    Default Stripping Oregon pine doors: Heat gun or paint stripper?

    I want to start stripping all the Oregon pine doors in our house (it's a listed heritage property, built in the early 1930s). Our floors are Oregon throughout, sanded and sealed, and it'll be nice to get the doors to the same condition. There are six internal Oregon doors (the seventh is already stripped) and they have several coats of paint on them. What's the best way for the initial strip? Heat gun, chemical paint stripper or any other suggestions? Once the doors and frames are done, the skirting boards are next... and that's a big schlep.
    And any other tips are welcome from those who have been there, done that. I know that some years ago when I did a door, the recommended method of finishing off was to scrape it carefully with a piece of broken glass. I'm sure technology has advanced since then, or not?
    Tony Weaver

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    Default Re: Stripping Oregon pine doors: Heat gun or paint stripper?

    Many years ago on my 1st house, the wife and I did this.
    We used paint stripper until we got to the dark beeswax layer.
    Here we got lucky and found a caustic soda based paint stripper which did well on the beeswax.
    The doors were scrubbed clean with water and sanded with an orbital sander once dried.
    I applied 2 coats of sanding sealer with a spray gun and light sanding in between.
    Then 3 coats of clear lacquer was sprayed on.
    The frames were dismantled and done the same way outside. The frames were individual wooden planks nailed to a base.
    Same with the skirting boards.
    It came out as good as new, with not a spec of old paint to be seen.
    I remember the caustic soda stripper used to dissolve the paint brushes.
    Back then, the Alcolin Heavy duty paint stripper was the more successful one.
    Last edited by Sawdust; 2019/05/09 at 01:47 AM.
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  4. #3
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    Default Re: Stripping Oregon pine doors: Heat gun or paint stripper?

    If you don't want to get your hands dirty, try these people.
    https://www.woodstrippers.co.za/wood...sh-remover.php
    Cheers,
    John Kilfoil

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    Default Re: Stripping Oregon pine doors: Heat gun or paint stripper?

    Just pray some muppet never used PVA, because the only option with that is good old elbow grease..........


    Been there, stripped the doors. Good luck.
    Jakes Louw
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    Default Re: Stripping Oregon pine doors: Heat gun or paint stripper?

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnnoK View Post
    If you don't want to get your hands dirty, try these people.
    https://www.woodstrippers.co.za/wood...sh-remover.php
    This!8)

    I used them some years ago to strip Oregon Pine skirtings -they do a great job, and without damage to the wood.

    Anything with profiling/mouldings/fielded-panel doors will be a nightmare to do manually -especially with decades of paint on them.
    "The problem with the world is that the intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence."

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    Default Re: Stripping Oregon pine doors: Heat gun or paint stripper?

    Don't know about availability or cost but look into dry ice blasting. My attention was first drawn to it by MikeAG who used it to strip paint from beams on his 100's year old cottage.
    No residue apart from the stripped paint and no damage to underlying wood

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    Default Re: Stripping Oregon pine doors: Heat gun or paint stripper?

    Quote Originally Posted by Woolf View Post
    Don't know about availability or cost but look into dry ice blasting. My attention was first drawn to it by MikeAG who used it to strip paint from beams on his 100's year old cottage.
    No residue apart from the stripped paint and no damage to underlying wood
    Good plan, I'll email Mike - his restoration is nearly finished, and last we spoke, he was building a wetland pond on his land to attract wildlife.
    Tony Weaver

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    Default Re: Stripping Oregon pine doors: Heat gun or paint stripper?

    Quote Originally Posted by jelo View Post
    Just pray some muppet never used PVA, because the only option with that is good old elbow grease..........
    Been there, stripped the doors. Good luck.
    Thanks, luckily I have a very skilled Malawian builder/painter/handyman/diesel mechanic who works for me on weekends, and he has stripped doors before. He recommended the heat gun route, while I was all ready to go with chemical stripper. One of my big concerns is removing the doors, because re-hanging old doors is a skill that is vastly under-appreciated. I don't really want to do this in situ.
    Tony Weaver

    1991 Land Rover 110 Hi-Line S/W 3.5l V8 carburettor
    Cooper Discoverer STT tyres, four sleeper Echo rooftop tent
    2012 Mitsubishi Outlander.

    Previously Land Rover 1968 SII, 1969 SIIA, 1973 SIII, 1983 Toyota HiLux 2litre, 2006 Land Rover Freelander TD4 HSE.

  14. #9
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    Default Re: Stripping Oregon pine doors: Heat gun or paint stripper?

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnnoK View Post
    If you don't want to get your hands dirty, try these people.
    https://www.woodstrippers.co.za/wood...sh-remover.php
    Thanks JohnnoK and Patrick - I have used them before and my one door that is stripped was bought from them. I phoned them and they quote R720 per door, which is actually very reasonable, so perhaps I'll go that route. They don't do on-site jobs, so I would have to do the frames myself, so I'm still looking for that solution.
    Tony Weaver

    1991 Land Rover 110 Hi-Line S/W 3.5l V8 carburettor
    Cooper Discoverer STT tyres, four sleeper Echo rooftop tent
    2012 Mitsubishi Outlander.

    Previously Land Rover 1968 SII, 1969 SIIA, 1973 SIII, 1983 Toyota HiLux 2litre, 2006 Land Rover Freelander TD4 HSE.

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    Default Re: Stripping Oregon pine doors: Heat gun or paint stripper?

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Weaver View Post
    Thanks, luckily I have a very skilled Malawian builder/painter/handyman/diesel mechanic who works for me on weekends, and he has stripped doors before. He recommended the heat gun route, while I was all ready to go with chemical stripper. One of my big concerns is removing the doors, because re-hanging old doors is a skill that is vastly under-appreciated. I don't really want to do this in situ.
    With these old doors you will find that either the hinge screws have deteriorated that they almost just pull out, or they have so firmly corroded / paint/grime bonded onto the hinge, that they are almost impossible to get out

    -good practice is to
    -make sure you are using the correct large flat screwdriver
    -make sure the screw slot is clean so the screwdriver has minimal chance of slipping and/or stripping the screwhead
    -before attempting to remove, give the screw a good whack with the correct screwdriver ( seated well into the slot) and hammer -this should loosen it from corrosion /bond to paint

    -re-hanging should be fairly simple if you keep the original hinges/screwholes -you may have to replace screws with slightly larger ones when re-hanging doors, or may need to plug the old oversize holes with dowels before re-screwing hinges -in this case the setting of screwholes becomes a bit more difficult

    -I find that the correct tools/procedure/prep in hanging doors makes for a far easier job -a handful of fine wedges in invaluable in this too.

    In the UK, under an old-hand carpenter, we would fit doors -handtools only-with a maximum clearance of about 2mm ( we used 2p coins as spacers all round) -that taught me about correct setting up/procedure!
    "The problem with the world is that the intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence."

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  18. #11
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    Default Re: Stripping Oregon pine doors: Heat gun or paint stripper?

    Tony, all, well almost all, of the advice given is the same.

    I have successfully removed paint and refurbished wooden doors and frames in a home built in 1938.

    Heat gun and sharp scraper is the fastest, but requires extreme caution, as in I did it myself. Use this to get the 75% cleaned up position, but err on the side of caution on edges and corners. Some doors had PVA, but luckily the heat gun loosened the enamel under the PVA and took it off. But, on those, next step is sanding, mostly in the corners where the heat will burn if you try too hard.

    Chemical stripper and scraper for the rest, can be done by helper. Caution on the physical side, let the stripper do it's work, even if it takes a few attempts, especially in the corners.

    Next comes the sanding. I glued sandpaper to a block, actually a couple of blocks to help get into the corners.

    I did not remove and rehang doors. I did change all the door locks and catches, new ones are a different size, and after hearing a ballpark figure for repairing/replacing with the original size I have no regrets opening the holes/slots to accommodate the new hardware.

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