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  1. #61
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Cape Town
    Age
    52
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    Thanked: 503

    Default Re: Howie-WP's TReg thread.

    So some updates on work / projects on the van during lockdown to date........


    Firstly, front drivers seat is showing some wear on the outmost bottom bolster. Did some goggling and found this on Amazon,
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...3150_479325920 , ordered
    and it arrived in SA day before lockdown and I managed to get it from Aramex even though they used my old work address.


    Works well and looks OEM when fitted. I chose it as it mimics the real seats. If I was hyper critical could be about 2-3cm longer at the rear.


    Before:

    After:



    The van came with 255/55/18's Achilles H/T's which were up for replacement. Was gonna go with agressive A/T's but can't really justify the
    spend on a van that spends 90% of it's life on the roads. pietpetoors had x2 used Dunlop AT25's 265/60/18 for sale, so bought them and x2 new
    tyres and had them fitted. Bonus was a 25mm lift in the process and no clearance issues.






    The current wheels had TPMS sensors fitted, the valve portion thread was well used and stripped, so I removed them when fitting the tyres. A few
    weeks back came across this Autel TPMS on TakeAlot for R399 and bought them. Just fitted them and it works a treat. Displayed tyre pressures are
    0.1bar below what my manual Longacre tyre pressure gauge reflects. So now I have TPMS again.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E89LwKT_7_Q or
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaJP03LHlBk




    Fixed the rear door ashtray covers that pop out due to bad design and the retaining tabs breaking. It is a surprisingly detailed design for what it is. Found this link when looking to strip and fix.
    I Q Bonded a new reatining tab to the slide. So far so good.


    link
    https://blamper.ru/auto/volkswagen/t...0cfa5178b464f/
    replace ### with k a k (no space)

    I needed batteries for my other VW's (Mk3 GTi and Mk5 .:R32) so when I found a place that could get me Varta batteries at a somewhat reasonable price, I decided to
    get one for the van as well (current one does not hold a charge and fails on my Optimate charger). Ordered a 658 and checked dimensions same as current.
    Fitting means removing x2 "Tripple Square" bolts holding down the front seat rails (I used a 10 spline and it worked, still looking to get a propper set
    of tripple square sockets). Move seat all the way back to get to bolts and then all the way forward;
    you then lift seat up and expose battery box. Dismantle bolt downs and replace battery. Reverse process. I replaced the Tripple Square bolts with normal 17
    socket hi tensile bolts. I also used a small alarm 12v battery to power the van while removing old battery as not to lose any settings on the electrics.


    youtube how to......
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-B9V...ature=emb_logo


    pics
    Tuesday was (Varta) battery day! Top = VW Mk3 GTi (629), middle = VW Mk5 .:R32 (668) and bottom = VW Touareg (658)



    old battery (BMW go figure ..... second hand obviously):



    new battery:



    new battery in battery box:
    Last edited by Howie-WP; 2020/10/15 at 10:53 PM.

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  3. #62
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Pretoria
    Age
    36
    Posts
    78
    Thanked: 28

    Default Re: Howie-WP's TReg thread.

    Good work on replacing batteries, i am sure the cars starts much easier with fresh power.

  4. #63
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Centurion
    Age
    53
    Posts
    63
    Thanked: 32

    Default Re: Howie-WP's TReg thread.

    Howard, I like the idea of replacing the battery triple square bolts with something a bit more user friendly. Batteries have this wonderful way of flunking out when you have minimal tools with you.
    Anton van Graan

    2009 Touareg 3.6 VR6
    2007 VW Caddy Life TDi
    2004 VW Polo 1.6 Comfortline
    1997 Citigolf 1.3

  5. #64
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Cape Town
    Age
    52
    Posts
    479
    Thanked: 503

    Default Re: Howie-WP's TReg thread.

    Some small updates / maintenance to the van....


    Bought some (4x + x1 spare) center cap from the local Chinese mall (R30ea), as 2 weeks ago and again last week, I lost an OEM badge portion of the center cap, while traversing some gravel roads..
    Interestingly, the reps have the exact same markings as the OEM version, go figure......

    Old vs new:


    Did some basic headlight polishing (as a test), with a kit I bought awhile back. Will do a more detailed job later.
    Before:

    After, looks good (difficult to see in pics, reallife chalk vs cheese); so my more detailed effort will be even better before I seal it:


    This milestone popped up on Sunday....
    Last edited by Howie-WP; 2020/12/14 at 08:05 PM.

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  7. #65
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Cape Town
    Age
    52
    Posts
    479
    Thanked: 503

    Default Re: Howie-WP's TReg thread.

    After the headlight polish, I added a set of DRL's (cheapo set from Midas, that fits really well in the bumper grills) Looks good for what it is and cost


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  9. #66
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Cape Town
    Age
    52
    Posts
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    Thanked: 503

    Default Re: Howie-WP's TReg thread.

    TReg T1 front door microswitch fix:


    Decided to tackle the dreaded front door(s) microswitches on the van. Passenger side has been recently showing open at arb times, setting off the alarm and irritating the driver by showing open / the close (repeat) while driving. Done some research on the interweb and found the switches.
    Drivers side has never worked, so if you unlocked the van and opened the drivers door, it could eventually auto rearm the alarm and lock again. Could be problematic if you for get. Also buzzer does not sound for lights on.


    Tools needed:
    a. Youtube clips need to be watched.
    b. Trim removal tools
    c. T40/30/20/15(think)
    d. table to work on (door frame)
    e. replacement switches (in case they are fubar'd)
    f. accomplice / second set of hands
    g. patience....


    These switches fail in mainly 2 ways:
    1. the button part of the switch wears away from constant use against the cam of the lock, creating a / slant on the button top, instead of a -- flat top. This means the switch no longer registers correctly, showing door closed when actually open.
    You can fix this by dismantling the switch (taking note of the switch button top, take a photo!), carefully prying the 4 tabs and lifting off, you can then turn the switch button 180 degrees (slant is now on opposite side), reinstall into switch boot and reassemble. You can also by the switch from RS and retrofit new top to your switch.


    See here for slant button (rightside is warn more than left, this is enough to not follow switch cam and then shows door as closed (when open), see below of how switch works)



    2. the button boot (surrounding the button, perishes) and jams up the switch (showing door is open when it is closed), also allowing dirt into the switch. This happened on my passenger side, the inside of the switch was also messed up by the boot debris. In this case you would need a new switch or button part but ensure the the bottom part of the switch is realigned. I used a replacement switch.


    How switch works:
    When door is closed, microswitch is Open (button not depressed, missing cam in lock housing); when door is open, microswitch is Closed (button depressed by cam in lock housing - registering on binnacle LCD as door open). Switches can be jammed in either state by muck/oil/dirt (irrispective of being open or close).

    See here for what mine looked like (white is collapsed/perished boot):



    Quick clip explaining this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMt3B4oAjyM


    Saia-burgess Johnson Electric : V4NCT7/8
    Closest was RS components: https://za.rs-online.com/web/p/microswitches/1571014/


    You strip off the top section and add to your switch.(point 2. above)


    Was gonna order from RS, but see they no longer have a Cpt office and you need to order from JHB. Switches are R105ea, plus R95 delivery; was gonna order x3 (one spare). Then found a guy on FB marketing doing door repairs that was close by; asked if he sells the microswitches only, said yes, asked him for x3 @ R100ea. When I went to collect I saw they were not new (from other cars) Told him R100 for them. No wear on button.



    Process:
    a. Remove door card, see here for DIY, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uePw6CybxWA
    Door card removed:



    b. Remove Door frame from outer door panel [REMEMBER to remove cable from exterior door handle to lock mechanism; I forgot when working on the drivers door and broke the latch mounting rail and needed to fix that first], see here for steps http://www.automanuals.biz/volkswage...door-lock.html
    Door frame removed:

    Door skin after door frame removed, I cleaned this as well as the dirty bits on the door frame and lubed window mechanism.



    c. Door lock, blue and red wire (remove metal bracket and gently pry out, see vid above) You can see all the grim and muck. Switch pics above with explaination of failure.

    Inside of switch fubar'd by dirty / debris



    d. Add new switch, I was not gonna open door latch mechnism and resolder to pcb in lock housing, so cut and resoldered and covered with heat shrink.
    Last edited by Howie-WP; 2021/01/11 at 10:43 PM.

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  11. #67
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Cape Town
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    Default Re: Howie-WP's TReg thread.

    continued....


    e. reinstall is the reverse of the above. HOWEVER, remember to reset door lock so as to correctly retension it; will set when you first open door when finished reassembling, don't pull on handle until then. We did not and spent an additional 1hr 20min (Sat) and another 2hr (Sun) removing all the above again to do this and figure out how to correctly set (tension) the outside door handle.


    The Door Handle AND the Door latch are set in two separate actions (e.1 and e.2). This gives the handle the correct feel / tension as well as tension to the lock mechanism. As follows:


    * e.1. Tension the door handle (can be done on the door skin before adding door frame. You insert handle in the door skin and then make sure the portion that goes into the door skin (to which you later insert the latch pull in section e.2) must be connected to weighted spring mechanism, see photos below. This means the door handle will feel correctly tensioned (even when not connected to the latch)
    Below, 1. is the weighted spring. The Door handle lever catch (black) needs to fit into (white) lever in 2. Below is correct fitment

    more detailed pic of correct alignment



    Below is incorrect fitment



    * e.2. Tension the door latch:
    See this video from 7.42 on... once the door latch is tensioned, you reassemble the door frame and then pull through the cable to slot into the external door handle as per video. This way the door latch amd handle have the correct feel and the external door handle and lock barrel section stay positioned when opening the door.
    https://youtu.be/LuOJhZaGwnw?t=462


    I did not see part e.1 anywhere on the 'net so missed it and only figured it out after dismantling the door for the 3rd time!!


    Done. Sit back, have a beer and admire your handy work. The drivers door is next and should be easier, based on our learnings from the passenger side.


    So Monday started with thoughts that it would be easy based on what we learnt the weekend. It was not! 5 hrs later, door microswitch is fixed. We had issues with:
    - Exterior door handle and lock chamber (where you put the key in to lock the door)
    - the grub screws that position and hold these in position had moved, making it difficult to reinstall them after the microswitch was fixed. Needed to remove everything again to reset the door handle rail that mounts to external door skin. Took a while to determine where and why it was fouling up against and reseting so that you could correctly install key/lock chamber from the outside.
    - inadvertantly broke the internal lock mounting bracket when I forgot to remove cable attached to external door handle, luckily was a quick (though unnecessary) fix.


    Stripping microswitch, button was completely warn away and clogged with muck. Removed top portion and used another good working one to replace.



    (New)Drivers side switch mounts into this white bracket (whereas passenger side has no bracket and locating pins on the switch) Drivers side, locating pins are on the white bracket.



    Door frame assembled, cleaned and repaired (what we broke); ready to be reinstalled.



    Money Shot 1: Doors open (first time I've seen drivers side)



    Money Shot 2: Doors closed.



    Job done! Thanks Stephen-WP for all the help!
    Last edited by Howie-WP; 2021/01/11 at 08:05 PM.

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  13. #68
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Centurion
    Age
    53
    Posts
    63
    Thanked: 32

    Default Re: Howie-WP's TReg thread.

    Great write up Howard, good reference material.

    I have intermittent contact issues with my Touareg's right front door and a permanent issue with the right rear. Mine fortunately sees the doors as closed, so there is not any alarms going off. I'll live with it for now, and keep my car keys in my pocket...
    Anton van Graan

    2009 Touareg 3.6 VR6
    2007 VW Caddy Life TDi
    2004 VW Polo 1.6 Comfortline
    1997 Citigolf 1.3

  14. #69
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Cape Town
    Age
    52
    Posts
    479
    Thanked: 503

    Default Re: Howie-WP's TReg thread.

    14.01.2021
    Now that front doors are correctly displaying status, I noticed that the binnacle alarm/speaker is not working; OEM is 32 ohm. So looked for small speaker to replace fubar'd one. Found a doorbell unit at home and stripped out speaker. While not exactly the same spec, it fits and does the job.


    Speaker is used for:
    - Turn signal indicator click (never realised this)
    - Seat belt warning
    - Door open warning
    - Headlights on with door open
    - Frost warning - 39F/4C
    - And others...?


    Test fit speaker using Prestik to make sure it works.

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  16. #70
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Cape Town
    Age
    52
    Posts
    479
    Thanked: 503

    Default Re: Howie-WP's TReg thread.

    The rear tails on the van bugged me as I always preferred the facelifted / smoked versions. I decided to buy some tint and see what we could do.


    Tools needed:
    a. Youtube clips need to be watched.
    b. tint film
    c. squeegee
    d. heat gun
    e. sharp blade


    My brother (Stephen-WP) and I did the flat lenses first as they were easiest. Moved to the compound curved lenses afterwards and used light heating via heat gun to aid stretching the film over the curves. We kind moved from straightest to the curved section, using more pliable warm film to wrap over the curve and use squeegee and clean cloth to apply.
    Considering we're novices, turned out great with only one or two barely noticeable creases. We managed to clear all bubbles with squeegee and pin prick holes on bigger bubbles. Jobs a good 'un


    Before:

    During, half half:

    Done looking much better:

    Old vs New:

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