TATA Telcoline with older Ford V6 Engine

[Nico Botha 1]

Hi Everyone.

I'm new to this 4x4 Community so I don't even know if I'm posting on the right place.

I recently bought a TATA Telcoline single cab with a Ford V6 engine, 38 weber carb, 5 speed sierra gearbox with standard diesel diff.

The bakkie feels bit underpowered to me compared to the Toyota Hilux 2.2 4y I had.

It,s all beat and noise but almost no speed, it gets to 120 km/h but takes a while to get there.

When the engine is cold, you can't get above 2000 rpm and the carb spits and so on, when the engine has

gained some heat it's a little better but under 2000 rpm it has almost no power and the carb spits, at around 3000 it has some power

but not much.

Idling is also High, above 1000 rpm and the rpm adjustment screw is all the way out and the accelerator cable is loose.

Also it consumes allot of fuel as I have to put pedal to the medal most of the time just to get going.

Is there a way I can adjust the timing and carb to get more low rpm torque and better power out of it.

I have no idea where to start as I don't really have much knowledge on the ford V6 engine.

I'm from Vanderbijlpark, Gauteng.

Thanks in advance.

[jelo]

Sell the Ford V6, and then install something like an Isuzu 2.8 Turbo Diesel.

or else get rid of that thing as it is.

If you don't listen to this advice, I'm afraid you will keep on throwing money down a money pit.

I certainly hope you didn't pay for the vehicle.

[Nico Botha 1]

Sell the Ford V6, and then install something like an Isuzu 2.8 Turbo Diesel.

or else get rid of that thing as it is.

If you don't listen to this advice, I'm afraid you will keep on throwing money down a money pit.

I certainly hope you didn't pay for the vehicle.

I did pay for it but next to nothing, paperwork and everything up to date and all round good condition.

I want to use it as an all rounder, work, offroad and so on.

[jelo]

1) the Essex V6 is 1970s technology
2) maximum power output was 100kW when brand new
3) spares are scarce
4) the carb is sensitive to coolant temps and the automatic choke is usually the problem
5) carb probably needs new jets, float levels set: try find a carb rebuild specialist
5) first check ignition timing as these vehicles hated too much timing advance
6) that Telcoline was 4x2

What are your peak revs in 1st, 2nd, etc?

[Nico Botha 1]

1) the Essex V6 is 1970s technology
2) maximum power output was 100kW when brand new
3) spares are scarce
4) the carb is sensitive to coolant temps and the automatic choke is usually the problem
5) carb probably needs new jets, float levels set: try find a carb rebuild specialist
5) first check ignition timing as these vehicles hated too much timing advance
6) that Telcoline was 4x2

What are your peak revs in 1st, 2nd, etc?

1st gear - not sure, it's very short
2nd gear - around 3000rpm to 4000rpm
3rd gear - also 3000rpm to 4000rpm
4rth gear - around 2000rpm to 3500
5th gear - around 2000rpm to 3000rpm

[jelo]

1st gear - not sure, it's very short
2nd gear - around 3000rpm to 4000rpm
3rd gear - also 3000rpm to 4000rpm
4rth gear - around 2000rpm to 3500
5th gear - around 2000rpm to 3000rpm

eeh my bad

SPEEDS in each gear, sorry........

[JeandreDiedericks]

My dad has a Telcoline it also has a Ford V6. It used to be lazy even after the motor was rebuild and all ignition components replaced. We swapped the 38 weber with one that was jetted for a 3.5 v8.

It runs way way better now. It still also has the diesel diff ratios so does 140 at stupidly high revs, but it will tow just about anything. Its done 400k kms with the conversion.

For what he uses it its perfect. The body is ridicously hard so handles the bricks, sand and tools that just get chucked on the back.

I'd start with a proper carb rebuild, and then put a electronic distributor on it, it should then just keep running. It wont ever be light on fuel, my dads bakkie averages about 6-6.5km/l in the city.

[Nico Botha 1]

eeh my bad

SPEEDS in each gear, sorry........

No problem, speedo not working due to the ford gearbox and tata speedo cable,

in 5th gear 120 km/h is around 3250 rpm

[Nico Botha 1]

My dad has a Telcoline it also has a Ford V6. It used to be lazy even after the motor was rebuild and all ignition components replaced. We swapped the 38 weber with one that was jetted for a 3.5 v8.

It runs way way better now. It still also has the diesel diff ratios so does 140 at stupidly high revs, but it will tow just about anything. Its done 400k kms with the conversion.

For what he uses it its perfect. The body is ridicously hard so handles the bricks, sand and tools that just get chucked on the back.

I'd start with a proper carb rebuild, and then put a electronic distributor on it, it should then just keep running. It wont ever be light on fuel, my dads bakkie averages about 6-6.5km/l in the city.

Do you maybe know what size jets it was? Speed doesn't really bother me, I'm only after more power to handle loads.

[mvcoller]

Do you maybe know what size jets it was? Speed doesn't really bother me, I'm only after more power to handle loads.

I would start with a 125 main jet, 200 or 210 air jet, possibly 135 2nd stage jet (second throat of the carb) and possibly a 35 idle and a 35 pump jet.

That is the jet size I fitted to my 2.8 Nissan Safari with the same carb. Those Safaris are notoriously thirsty, and I got it to 8km/lt when I sold it

[Zoutpansberg]

Hi Everyone.

I'm new to this 4x4 Community so I don't even know if I'm posting on the right place.

I recently bought a TATA Telcoline single cab with a Ford V6 engine, 38 weber carb, 5 speed sierra gearbox with standard diesel diff.

The bakkie feels bit underpowered to me compared to the Toyota Hilux 2.2 4y I had.

It,s all beat and noise but almost no speed, it gets to 120 km/h but takes a while to get there.

When the engine is cold, you can't get above 2000 rpm and the carb spits and so on, when the engine has

gained some heat it's a little better but under 2000 rpm it has almost no power and the carb spits, at around 3000 it has some power

but not much.

Idling is also High, above 1000 rpm and the rpm adjustment screw is all the way out and the accelerator cable is loose.

Also it consumes allot of fuel as I have to put pedal to the medal most of the time just to get going.

Is there a way I can adjust the timing and carb to get more low rpm torque and better power out of it.

I have no idea where to start as I don't really have much knowledge on the ford V6 engine.

I'm from Vanderbijlpark, Gauteng.

Thanks in advance.

As jy weg trek met n vrag is daar genoeg krag met die Sierra ratkas?

[JeandreDiedericks]

Do you maybe know what size jets it was? Speed doesn't really bother me, I'm only after more power to handle loads.

Can't recall the jet sizes and we haven't opened up the one that is on there now.

[Nico Botha 1]

As jy weg trek met n vrag is daar genoeg krag met die Sierra ratkas?

Hy het genoeg krag want eerste rat is redelik kort, maar sukkel nogsteeds, kom gladnie weg op lae revs nie. Ek moet bo 2000 rev om weg te kom, onder 2000 revs spoeg die carb.

[Stephan van Tonder]

Find an old style dyno tuner and get him to set the timing and fueling right.
the carb spitting back can be one of a few issues- ie too slow ignition timing, incorrect valve timing or even a burnt intake valve.
Fueling is best set after checking air fuel ratio under load and adjusting the jet sizes to suit.

[Nico Botha 1]

I advanced the ignition timing yesterday and found that it ran a bit better below 2000 rpm but still weak, today I retard the timing a bit and adjusted the air until it sounded right, now it has little more power above 2000 rpm but worse under 2000 rpm and idling still high.

My Dad a few years ago had a Ford Sierra Station wagon with a Ford 3L V6 and that thing was tuned correctly and was like lightning. Throttle response was
there the second you touched the pedal at any rpm. The same engine in my bakkie but worse performance

[Stephan van Tonder]

Could also be an issue with the centrifugal advance mechanism on the distributor.

[Nico Botha 1]

Could also be an issue with the centrifugal advance mechanism on the distributor.

Are you talking about this on the picture?

[HobieDave]

I would start with the basics

Check each plug, do a compression test, clean the points - make sure there is no build up on them, check the rotor arm and cap for cracks and wear. Remove each plug wire one at a time on the cap to check for corrosion. Check the plug wires to make sure they are not arcing, too hard, chafed through.

If you can get a dwell meter then set the points according to that as setting the gap correctly may change the dwell if there is movement in the shaft.

Backfiring when cold is usually too lean - the accelerator pump is not supplying enough fuel and/or ignition timing. Check if the choke flap closes when cold and opens when hot.

[janseekat]

Kan die ou v6 met unleaded petrol ry ?
Valve seats brand ?

[Martini78]

My dad has a Telcoline it also has a Ford V6. It used to be lazy even after the motor was rebuild and all ignition components replaced. We swapped the 38 weber with one that was jetted for a 3.5 v8.

It runs way way better now. It still also has the diesel diff ratios so does 140 at stupidly high revs, but it will tow just about anything. Its done 400k kms with the conversion.

For what he uses it its perfect. The body is ridicously hard so handles the bricks, sand and tools that just get chucked on the back.

I'd start with a proper carb rebuild, and then put a electronic distributor on it, it should then just keep running. It wont ever be light on fuel, my dads bakkie averages about 6-6.5km/l in the city.

I WONDER IF YOU CAN TOW WITH A 4Y SETUP . I ALSO HAVE A 207 TELCOLINE DOUBLE CAB WITH NO ENGINE , BUT THE 2.O TDI GEARBOX AND DIFF ARE STILL INTACT . WOULD LIKE TO TRY TOW IN . SO HAVE TO DECIDE BETWEEN FORD V6 , 2.2 4Y OR MAYBE 3.5 BENZ V8 . IF I KNOW THE 4Y CAN TOW , I'D GO FOR IT . CHEAP MAINTAINANCE . BUT DON'T WANNA VERKRAG THE ENGINE . BENZ V8 GAS POWER , BUT MAINTAINANCE AND FUEL . AGE ALSO .
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martini78 (aus,namibia)